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Bow eye install


acreew

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I prefer to bond them in an oversize epoxy bushing. I rarely bed them, just let the goo seal it up, as it's easy to remove with some heat. A little wax on the threads, before coating with fresh epoxy on insertion into the bonded hole will permit it's easy removal, if desired. Considering how often this is necessary, I'd error on the side of being a pain in the butt to remove, yet possible than one with a higher leak potential. Lastly, mount the eye as low as you can, to make recovery at the ramp easier. 

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I did a Chick L. outlined.  Big backing block behind the bow and stern eyes. Holes oversized, filled, then drilled to size to seal the plywood edge.  Then, bedded in polysulphide sealant just in case I want to change the fittings at some point.  Mine is halfway down the stem, and it does help lift the bow a tad when pulling up on the trailer (just think about the geometry of the boat level in the water, and the trailer at an angle).  

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Don, it is not a question of sinking the boat because of  a leak through there. If the wood is not well sealed mother ocean will find its way in there. You can bet on that. Then next time you take things apart there is a nasty old spot of rot looking at you. Some people use the bow eye for tie off. If you're one of them count the number of jerks that thing is subjected to in even placid water. Amazing, and it all adds up, almost makes you feel like she works to a plan. PeterP

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I have used the waxed, or WD 40ed threads embeded in epoxy saturated wood for attaching hardware with machine screws when I wished I could use a nut and washer but can't get to the back side. After the epoxy kicks I take the hardware off, bed in polysulfide, then reassemble.  It holds better than screws, not as well as through bolted.  Not sure why anyone would dislike polysulfide.  It isn't the answer everywhere, but it is superb for bedding things that you want to come apart easily.  Both BoatLife LifeCaulk and 3M 101 have app. 100 psi tensile strength vs 300 for Sikaflex 291, 400+ for 3M 4200 and 600 for 3M 5200.

 

100 psi - quite easy to take apart, may choose to use a knife or light prying

300 psi - reasonable to take apart, but definitely need a knife and some prying

400 psi - a pain to take apart, can be done, be careful, easy to slip trying to cut

600 psi - totally sucks to take apart, can be done if tenacious and careful not to damage surfaces and yourself

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Polysulfide is the prefered choice for underwater on wood applications as a bedding. My logic for any through hull fastener or penetration (fittings, etc.) is they can be removed, if a pain in the butt, with some heat and the frequency of needing to remove it, means it should be a pain in the butt. Simply put, if you have something that will frequently need to be disassembled, then sure, make the threads slippery with some wax or a release agent of some sort, but if the piece, fastener or whatever, isn't going to need to come off with some regularity, then it needs to remain watertight and should be a pain in the butt to remove, if only to insure it remains watertight.

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