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15" Dory Skiff


Hirilonde

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Thanks to all who helped with ideas and such for a salt pond boat.  In the end the "Badger" a 15' 1" dory skiff, aka modified dory by Weston Farmer was decided upon.  I will build it over the winter for an early spring commissioning.

 

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There will be a couple minor changes considered, like adding an inwale (customer really likes the look), extending the stem into a bit,  or other minor lay out mods.  The transom, stem, seats and wales will be dressed to 7/4"   Dark Red Meranti.  The frames and cleats will be dressed to 4/4" White Oak.  The bottom planks  will be dressed to 4/4"  Douglas Fir and the side planking will be dressed to 2/4" Northern White Cedar.

 

The cedar and oak are ordered through a local saw mill that will be cutting my lumber to order from logs they put aside for such projects.  The Dark Red Meranti for the transom and stem I bought the other day as a dressed to 7/4" by 9 1/8" by 11' board

 

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Progress at first will be a little slow as I procure materials.

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Use 3M-101 or other polysulfide in the laps, before fastening. All the wooden manufactures (Chris Craft, Thompson, Lyman, etc.) switched (eventually) to this treatment and it helped a lot, with uptake after some age. Clenches aren't quite as good as roves. If the planking is thick enough, I prefer screws in the laps and through bolts (machine screws) in the frames. I did a Lyman some years ago and used all through bolts (#6 and #10 machine screws) in the laps and frames. I've seen this boat recently (12 years later) and she's still tight - am I'm convinced it's the solid through bolt approuch to the lap/frame attachments and will always do this, of future builds if the budget permits. The Lyman required 3,500 stainless machine screws, with washers and nylocks, so be prepared.

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Yeah, I have been paying seems with BoatLife LifeCaulk (polysulfide) for years.  Using it in the laps makes sense.  I will be riveting using copper nails and roves.  Jamestown Distributors sells both in matching sizes with cupped roves help tighten the clamp as they are peened.  Especially as a novice I can get them tighter than clench nails.  All other fasteners will be bronze.  The budget doesn't really support through bolts for all planking, but there will be some.  I can buy all the fasteners in RI.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Off and running.  In thise 2 photos are lofted components done full size transposed over the side view layed out full size on 2 sheets of 1/4" luan.

 

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Next I cut out the patterns for the stem, frames and transom

 

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Then from the patterns I made up the components. The frames are 3 pieces joined by gussets on both sides.  In the photo they are being glued up with 3M 5200.  Because they are oak, and will be wet most of the time, but dry out some during maintenance, I wanted a flexible adhesive.  I will rivet them for looks.  The engine notch in the transom will be enlarged when the exact outboard is chosen.  To save wood I left part of what will be cut out open during glue up.  8/4 lumber is pricey.  The stem is partially tapered.  It will need more material removed by hand to assure a nice fair joint of the forward end of the planks.

 

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All 3 frames stacked.  (still need rivets, on order)

 

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Bottom planking layed out.  5/4 vertical grain  Douglas Fir.

 

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Dry fit of all the components just to make sure it all lays out properly.

 

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As I will be assembling and planking in my boat shed (un-heated) I want to get as much done in the basement as possible.  I will move the assembled bottom and all other components to the shed for this.  At this point construction may slow down a lot due to cold.

 

 

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I finished the bottom, well, to the point of being ready to set up for planking the sides.  I did this in my basement.  It is the last step I will do there as I don't want to have to wrestle a 275 lb. boat out through a bulkhead stairway egress.  After these photos I dismantled it back to bottom, frames, transom and stem.  After I return from a trip at the end of December I will set it all up again in my boat shed and continue.  I will have a little more to do beveling the bottom and stem after re-assembly.  Because of the whole take apart/re-assembly process I wanted a little fudge factor in case needed.

 

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Hmm, I just noticed the title of my thread.  Getting the boat down to 15 inches long is going to take a lof of planing.

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Good looking boat, And this construction is a lot less work from the T&G methods. What type of wood is stickered off to the side?

 

Thanks Oyster.  It is Northern White Cedar.  It will become the side planking.  It's was still a little green when I bought it, so I stickered it up in my humidity controlled basement (humidifier at 50% humidity setting) for a couple months.  If building this boat, or similar becomes a viable way to make a few bucks I will consider buying more green lumber and air drying it myself.  It is so much cheaper to buy White Oak and Northern White Cedar this way, especially in the northeast.  And having met and talked to the owner of the sawmill I have found someone who will work with me to get what I need.

 

Yeah, I am surprised how fast (little labor) this is going.  Even with my steep learning curve on this first one I may actually make a semi-reasonable  hourly labor rate.  With the ply patterns I made and a few things learned already I can see the next one (if it happens) going considerably faster.

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This boat is the envy of my eye!  It reminds me so much of the flat-bottom skiffs that I used to row as a kid.  (My hand is on the oar in the photo.)  I wish we had access to that beautiful cedar that you're using.  All the cedar we have around here is aromatic cedar, and it's full of knots.

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