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Walt S.

Spindrift 12 build log

187 posts in this topic

Awlgrip sells straight granulated texture, designed to be mixed or sprinkled in or over paint. It's ground up polyurethane pellets and about as soft a particulate you'll find. I've been using it exclusively on retro fits, where I can't use the roller through epoxy trick. Easy to sand or remove, inert and available in light medium or coarse grits. It's white too, though and through.81.thumb.jpg.ac7b5532cfc9fdc7ed1c5e1058bd3e02.jpg

I think this is the image Dave referenced . . .

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It is the image Paul.  Note how the non-skid areas are broken up into "panels".  It just looks classier that way IMO, and there is little if any loss of function.

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12 hours ago, Hirilonde said:

. . . Note how the non-skid areas are broken up into "panels".  It just looks classier that way IMO . . .

 The areas between the "panels" are the waterways and serve to channel away water, from the textured areas. The waterways should be placed in logical locations, where water might be forced to change direction, might pile up against things, around any protrusions through the deck (hardware, combings, etc.) and lastly to break up the panels into more manageable sizes. The image above has a centerline waterway that "flows" around the mast tube, hatch carlin, splash board, cockpit combing (yet to be installed) and aft hardware bases. You'll never get things to bed down neatly it there's texture between it and the deck. It also keeps things clean if water can flow around things things instead of pooling in the texture. Also note the generous radius used on the corners (both inside and out), which helps promote good flow. On this job the corner radiuses were simply using the roll of tape as the guide. I laid the tape on a piece of glass and drew the diameter of the tape roll on the tape, which I cut with a razor and "pasted" onto the boat in the appropriate places. A little fiddly, but not bad with some practice.

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Dave, it cleans up okay. I put mine down with Awlgrip which is easy to clean anyway because nothing much penetrates the coating.

 

I will have to look at the container to check the brand name. The soft sand rubber that Paul found looks like it.

 

We found the sprinkle on the wet paint, sweep off the excess before top coat method gave the neatest results.

 

Another point in favor of masking the nonskid into smaller areas is that if you tear up one section or have to make a repair or alteration, you do not have to repaint the whole deck.

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An easy way is to use fly screen wire. Just cut it out into whatever shape you want, then place where you want grip, then paint all over the screen and then remove. You are left with good grip that is as easy to sand as paint and you don't have to go looking for any special products.

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