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Walt S.

Spindrift 12 build log

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PAR    188

Awlgrip sells straight granulated texture, designed to be mixed or sprinkled in or over paint. It's ground up polyurethane pellets and about as soft a particulate you'll find. I've been using it exclusively on retro fits, where I can't use the roller through epoxy trick. Easy to sand or remove, inert and available in light medium or coarse grits. It's white too, though and through.81.thumb.jpg.ac7b5532cfc9fdc7ed1c5e1058bd3e02.jpg

I think this is the image Dave referenced . . .

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Hirilonde    171

It is the image Paul.  Note how the non-skid areas are broken up into "panels".  It just looks classier that way IMO, and there is little if any loss of function.

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PAR    188
12 hours ago, Hirilonde said:

. . . Note how the non-skid areas are broken up into "panels".  It just looks classier that way IMO . . .

 The areas between the "panels" are the waterways and serve to channel away water, from the textured areas. The waterways should be placed in logical locations, where water might be forced to change direction, might pile up against things, around any protrusions through the deck (hardware, combings, etc.) and lastly to break up the panels into more manageable sizes. The image above has a centerline waterway that "flows" around the mast tube, hatch carlin, splash board, cockpit combing (yet to be installed) and aft hardware bases. You'll never get things to bed down neatly it there's texture between it and the deck. It also keeps things clean if water can flow around things things instead of pooling in the texture. Also note the generous radius used on the corners (both inside and out), which helps promote good flow. On this job the corner radiuses were simply using the roll of tape as the guide. I laid the tape on a piece of glass and drew the diameter of the tape roll on the tape, which I cut with a razor and "pasted" onto the boat in the appropriate places. A little fiddly, but not bad with some practice.

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Designer    161

Dave, it cleans up okay. I put mine down with Awlgrip which is easy to clean anyway because nothing much penetrates the coating.

 

I will have to look at the container to check the brand name. The soft sand rubber that Paul found looks like it.

 

We found the sprinkle on the wet paint, sweep off the excess before top coat method gave the neatest results.

 

Another point in favor of masking the nonskid into smaller areas is that if you tear up one section or have to make a repair or alteration, you do not have to repaint the whole deck.

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Alex    24

An easy way is to use fly screen wire. Just cut it out into whatever shape you want, then place where you want grip, then paint all over the screen and then remove. You are left with good grip that is as easy to sand as paint and you don't have to go looking for any special products.

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Walt S.    14

I've settled on a Trailex SUT-250 trailer because the trailer weight is well-matched to the boat weight and the trailer can also serve as a dolly.  I called the manufacturer and he said that the 8" wheels work just fine at highway speeds given that the trailer is so light.  Having 8" wheels means I won't have to back the boat into the water 100 yards to get it wet.  The trailer has a nice transom roller.  The tongue weight might be light but I might be able to weight it.   I can also adjust the axle aft.  Here's a good B and B thread on trailer fitting.  

 

Other manufacturers make trailers with springs rated for 1000 lb loads.  I'd spend more time/money on one adjusting the springs and axle.

 

The seat tops are on and filleted/taped.  I had to do very little adjustment of all the seat top pieces to get them to fit. I'll most some more pictures later.  

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Walt S.    14

Time to add more pictures.  For nonskid, I bought a quarter-pint of SoftSand rubber particles (coarse grain) which is enough for a quart of paint.  $10.  I'll post pictures when I'm done with it.  

 

Here are the glued seat tops, ready for installation.  I sanded the epoxy where they contact the stringers in preparation for gluing.  While they were dry-fit in the boat, I used a staple gun to hold the panels together in their positions while I glued the butt-blocks in-situ.  I glued the butt blocks by laying some 3/4" solid wood covered in plastic across the stringers and put the butt-blocks on top of the solid wood and laid the panels on the butt-blocks with some weight to add clamping pressure.  Gluing the butt-blocks in-situ maintains the dry fit.  

5913f345b2b73_DSCN16271.thumb.JPG.ebefa1a641087f7ae472ec89b30bec52.JPG

 

Finally gluing-down the seat tops.  I did it just like Alan did in his CS15 video, using brad nails where I felt space between the seat stringers and the seat tops.  Here, applying epoxy from a squeeze bag and spreading it with a West 809 spreader was very effective.  Say what you want about 5 lb dumbells, but you never know when you'll need them. 

5913f4c60d94c_DSCN16281.thumb.JPG.3448906d0419cd07344664583f45e7b2.JPG

 

This is a picture of the staples used to maintain the spacings from the dry-fit. 

5913f55f7dc81_DSCN16291.thumb.JPG.6fe01eb4cd9f6b6ca3bcf8f3698897ab.JPG

 

Current status: seat tops and foredeck have been filleted and taped.  I just leveld the boat fore and aft with a water level (clear acrylic tubing attached to the bow and where the transom meets the gunwales with water poured up to the level of where the gunwales meet the transom) and a $30 laser level, finding a 1/8" disagreement between the two methods.  I put the Beckson deckplates in with epoxy.  After painting, I need to check the compartments for air tightness.  Does anyone have a good method of doing this?  The last thing I need is for this boat to sink.  

 

I think Don(?) mentioned filleting with a plastic spoon on another thread.  I tried this with the seat tops and foredeck.  It's an excellent way of getting the epoxy out of the pot and onto the boat and creating initial fillets.  It's particularly good for scraping off the lines of excess epoxy created by filleting.  I found that the spoon didn't give enough volume to the fillets for an the angle of plywood I was trying to fillet.  I still had to go back and add volume to the fillets with a B and B filleting stick.  Still, the method speeds up the process greatly and makes it much easier to do the final cleanup of epoxy with a putty knife. 

5913f5a3e0ea4_DSCN16301.thumb.JPG.421ec7b4dad92b6fd0c5528516784e71.JPG

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Alex    24

It might be ok but I wouldn't do it. I just tilted the boat vertically and put a prop under the keel to hold it in place while I sanded and painted the inside. Very easy to do and very comfortable to work as well, without having to crouch down for hours on end.

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Walt S.    14

Does anyone know if you can paint successive coats of Interlux primer and Brightsides without sanding in between?  I'm wondering if it's like epoxy where you can put another layer on without sanding as long as it's within the cure window of the previous layer. 

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Ken_Potts    58

According to the data sheet that will cause "improper drying, wrinkling and loss of adhesion".  The data sheet can be found here:

http://www.yachtpaint.com/MPYACMDatasheets/Brightside__Polyurethane+eng-usa+A4+Y+20141215.pdf

I tried that once with a totally different paint (alkyd, I think) and I ended up with something resembling a non-skid surface :rolleyes:

 

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Walt S.    14

How many of you guys fair the tape edges with filler in the cockpit?   I guess a lot of guys wimp out when it comes to fairing and painting prep, but I didn't fair the tape when I painted the wet locker next to the transom and I thought it looked fine, especially when you stand back 10 feet..  I DID take down the tape edges with a sanding block.  You can tell there's tape there, but I think I'm trending towards a 'work boat' finish rather than a show finish.  On the outside of of the hull, I'll probably fair a bit since it affects hydrodynamics.  I'm pretty glad I glassed the hull rather than just taping it.  

 

At the risk of causing some of you to choke, I'll say I've never been that fussy about aesthetics. 

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Designer    161

Walt,

 

I Have nothing against honest structural components on the inside. I tend to fuss with fairing the outside but I usually pull a scraper along the edges of the inside taping.

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Chick Ludwig    111

I use a dual action sander (oscillating sander) to smooth the edges of the tape on the areas that will be varnished. The tape edge is smoothed down until it blends in with the wood. This is after the tape has had the first coat of poxy to apply plus a filler coat. Both coats extend beyond the edge of the tape. When the final coat of poxy and varnish are applied, the tape disappears. For areas that are painted, I do a quick sanding to knock off the edge with the sander, then fill with Q-cell/poxy. Then sand fair. Some folks use a scraper to knock the edge down. As Graham says, that's all that's needed inside lockers.

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roam    7

My philosophy to fairing the inside tape was to get the edges smooth enough that it wouldn't be unpleasant when I was barefooted in the boat. 

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