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Found 10 results

  1. Hi everyone, this is my first post--I've been lurking here getting lots of good info as I build and finally have a few questions myself! By now the boat is 3D and wired together. The hull, bulkheads, and transom all seem to fit well, and the boat has no twist in it that I can discern. Measurements from the peak of the bow to the corners of the transom are 109" +/- an 1/8", and sighting down the centerline, the tips of the nesting bulkheads "disappear" below the transom at the same time. I've made a number of spanish windlasses to pull the sides together between the forward and mid bulkhead, to pull out the 1/2" gap between the bottom and the bottom of the nesting bulkheads, to pull the forward bulkhead forward onto its lines, and lastly to try to flatten the bottom seam between bulkheads slightly to close a gap in the bottom panels. The question is how much of a gap along the keel seam is acceptable? It goes from no gap at the transom and widens to about 1mm around the nesting bulkheads, and up to a maximum of about 3mm halfway between the forward and mid bulkheads. I think the epoxy fillets will cover it just fine, but I just want to make sure it's not a symptom of a larger problem. Also, the plans don't really give dimensions to make a breasthook or quarter knees--do I just make these to fit the shape of the hull as it stands now? The instructions say the breasthook (included with the kit I suppose) is important to ensure the bow takes the correct shape--so what gives? The sheer lines look nice. Lastly, I centered the kerf gap of the nesting bulkhead on the "center frame" lines running down the sides--is that correct? Thanks! Additional photos Looking aft: chine bow and gap forward bulkhead
  2. Texas Spindrift 11N Build

    As my first post on this forum I may as well start a build thread. I should start out by saying I have little to no experience with boats, but I love building things and my wife says we don’t need any more bookshelves or lawn furniture. I have read many of the build threads on this site and have appreciated being able to get a more in-depth understanding of the process. I also watched Alan's set of videos. So one day I called and talked to Alan, and ordered the kit. The next thing you know I have a large stack of wood parts, several bottles of epoxy, and rolls of fiberglass tape. Onward, Mike
  3. Progess! So the breasthook is in, gunwales are on and the quarter knees are secure. I have tacked togeter the panels between the wires! On to the next step of filet and tape. So last night I was laying everything out to fillet and tape the aft starboard chine, and doing some basic prep of the tack "welds"--pulling the wires and knocking down a few big bumps left over--to make the next step easier, and it occured to me, things would go much better if I could pull all the wires, prep all the seams and fillet, then tape the boat in one fell swoop. The question is, given that I have a small fillet of epoxy between every wire, can I take out all the wires and prep all the seams, or should I leave the wires in as I work on one seam at a time? I have visions of the boat poping apart as I remove the wires--oh the crazy visions that come from having never done this before. As always, thanks for the help and advice.
  4. Squaring Tolerance

    Went to check twist and square, there is shy 1/16th difference in the centerline to outer edge of the hull, and the similar shy 1/16th from transom corner to bow. Is this shy 1/16th small enough to call it good or should try to work it out? What other dimenions should i measure to check the squareness and for twist? Thanks, Michael
  5. Spindrift 10n Hull 993 is 3D and 99% wired! I made the breast hook and quarter knees from the template--to make them fit will require a fair amount of coaxing...Is this normal? See the photos. Any and all input much appreciated. Michael
  6. Spindrift Guwales

    For the spindrift 10n on the keel/gunwales sheet, dated 2-22-04 GB says: "Tapering 1/8" keeps the gunwales looking heavy in the ends. Can someone clarify what this means? Thanks
  7. Spindrift 10n, Hull 933 started going 3D today. And I have a few questions I hope some of the more able of you can answer. Frist off, 933 is a kit from B&B, the foreward bluk head is in and fits great, the nesting bulkhead and transome will go in tomorrow. Question 1: The keel and chines are wired and because if the keyed chine, they line up great, but at the bow, the lower section of the hull--below the chine--is a bit proud (1-2 layers of the ply are a sticking out of the seam. See the photo below. The problem is only with the first 2 keys of the chine, You can see the proud part under the frist wire tie. If these need to be pulled in, any suggetions? Or should the just be removed when I flip the boat over and round and tape all the ouside edges? Question 2: The mated, nesting blukheads. Should they be wired in? Screwed in? Glued in? Question 3: After the transom and nesting bulkhead are in ? Fillet and tape, then gunnels or gunnels then fillet and tape? Thanks in advance for your help.\ Michael
  8. As we gear up for the build of the Spindrift 10N, we are pouring over the plans and realized the hull is not covered in fiberglass. The new dink will primarily serve as teneder to our larger 36 foot cutter. Beaches here in Alaska are noriously jagged and poky. Think barnacles on sharp rocks. To wit we are seriously conseidering covering the boat from keel to just just above chine with kevlar cloth. I realize this will add some weight, but being new to epoxy and glass, I have a few questions. How do I estimate how much more weight the additon of 4 oz cloth will add to the boat? What kind of weave should be used? If you have worked with Kevlar, do you have any tips? Thanks! Michael
  9. Just starting a Spindrift 10N. This will become the new tender on our 36 foot cruising boat, we are very excited. In pouring over the plans, pictures this forum and the greater internet, one question has come up. Has anyone built the rudder with a removable tiller? Storage is at a premium in our boat and it would be great to be able to break down the tiller from the rudder. Surely someone with more ability than me has encountered and perhaps solved this problem. Thanks in advance for any thoughts, ideas or resources. Michael Sharp 59'30N 151'40W
  10. Now that I am home and the summer stifling heat is gone, I am back to work on my kit Spindrift 11 N dinghy. I have made an adjustable cradle for it, leveled the hull, and am starting to fit the seats. At this stage I would like some technical advice. Graham’s instructions refer to the CD for this stage, and while the directions for fitting seats in a standard boat are clear and well illustrated, there is not much on the very different seats for the nesting dinghy. I plan to adapt the procedures shown, but would like to check with experienced builders to see if I am on the right track. I am assuming the best sequence to be: - Fit and install notched cleats (3/4” stock) to the transom. - Fit and install the front bulkheads (1/4” ply). - Fit and install the stringers. - Fit and install the side panels (with holes for hatches.) - Fit (but do not mount) the seat tops. - Epoxy the interior of the seat chambers and the underside of the seat tops. - Install the seat tops. Does anyone have an alternative sequence or method that worked well for them? Does anyone have suggestions about techniques that may make any step more efficient or foolproof? In the CD, it appeared that the cleats and stringers were epoxied to the hull. I have a preference for using fasteners with glues. Would there be a problem with using small countersunk screws from the outside of the hull and transom? I am painting the hull, so covering the screw heads with filler is not a problem. Thank you in advance for your help. Barry Foy
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