Malwarebytes Endpoint Security
Advanced endpoint protection (affiliate link).

Steve W

Members
  • Content count

    595
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Steve W last won the day on February 12

Steve W had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

35 Excellent

About Steve W

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/12/1961

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  1. I'm thinking a simple Ball valve just inside the rear hatch on both drain tubes is a good idea instead of plugs. Glued in they should be easy to operate and as strong as the pipe. What am I missing?
  2. Looking great! I had an Old Town Discovery Sport 15 years ago that reminds me of your build. I loved that thing once it was in the water. But it weighed about 120 pounds and as such was a bit too heavy to effectively car top for one. If you really succeed keeping this under 70 pounds I may be interested in building one. I currently have a Royalex Old Town Penobscot 17 that I fish out of. My older one obly weighs 62 pounds. They build them heavier now. But when I bought it I asked the older salesperson how much it weighed and he said something to the effect that it was 62 pounds but it got heavier every year with a smile. I didn't know what he meant but I do now!
  3. I was just sailing on the Chesapeake a week and a half ago and watching the 7 boats rigging and unrigging was informational. There were five Joel White Marsh Cats and each guy had a different system. So launch varied from 30 minutes to an hour. The differences were specialized cradles and whether they took the rudder off and where items were stowed, etc. All in all it was fun to watch. I like to take each boat I have and rig and un-rig on the trailer next to my shop. And then think how each step slows you down and what you can do to make it faster. As an example, 1. my outboard motor has a safety lanyard that has a snap shackle that clips to my Sea Pearl. It takes a second to un-clip it when I used to tie a knot. 2. The masts will mar up the interior stern of the boat so I made a carpet pad that is held captive and slips on in a second, when I used to tie on a towel. Both of these steps probably save only 30 seconds each, but there are many other steps that together probably save me 10 minutes total. That's loading and unloading. 20 minutes of lost sailing time. If you are retired and in no hurry, no biggie. But if just getting sailing is a challenge I can't waste 20 minutes of sailing time. Bonus.....a pic of my Sassafras river trip.
  4. Slow progress as it's sailing season! Luckily I have three boats to sail while I work on "no name" I'm at the cabin roof. I perused Pete's pictures and others. I glued a strip down the center of the two cabin tops and laid it up on the top of the boat. Unfortunately, my 2nd bulkhead collapsed a bit under the pressure of the hull panels and I assume the humidity of my work area. So the roof doesn't lay real good because of this. It's got gaps as big a 3/16". I made the hatch "frame" on a perfectly flat surface and glued it in, with a wider piece clamped with it to keep it from sagging. To get it to fit at the sprung bulkhead I had to trim about 7/16 of material from both sides of the "knee" part. I'm fine with not letting perfection be the enemy of good, but the fix has me scratching my head. I am thinking to glue in shims to the top of the plywood to get it perfect like "Chessie". My questions. 1. I wired in the knees and glued in the forward ones, but I am planning on removing the aft ones after the top is on. I have sat below and think these are in the way and since Doug Cameron's boat doesn't need them, I'm not having them. Chick built some kind of laminate beam here, but I'm having trouble figuring out how he kept the right shape. did you make a big laminate beam somewhat to the shape and then planed it down to match the temporary knee? 2. In this picture, stolen from Pete, the support beams look like bent cleat stock, but after trying to bend stock that short, my guess is they were traced off the top edge (pattern bit?.....too late!) and then a parallel band-saw cut gives them this nice looking curve. 3. In the plans, there are extra longitudinal supports not shown in Pete's picture. Knowing I have to add them in (Pete apparently didn't know until later), what does the joint look like? Butt joints? Half lap joints? It seems to me as long as there is a good bond to the roof panels a butt joint would suffice. Thanks in advance.
  5. Great Stuff. I like the look of the both of these setups. I have a question on the main sheet. Do you feel that much mechanical advantage is required? I have dinghy sailed with similar sized sail plans and didn't have 3:1 (is that what I'm seeing?) mechanical advantage and was able to handle the lines just fine. It seems that adding all this advantage adds a lot of sheet length and sheet friction and if reefed at the right time wouldn't be necessary. What are your thoughts?
  6. Graham, do you have a lug rig design for the 11N? I love the performance of the stock rig, but the long boom makes conversion from sail to row and back tough. I'd like to be able to row a bit and then sail sometimes, especially when I fish.
  7. I'm kind of paranoid. The day after I met you at the MASCF I got my Sea Pearl rear-ended by an inattentive driver texting. Here is a pic. Nothing I could do about it. A Sea Pearl is build like a brick $%)t-house. It bounce up on the ladies hood and smashed her windshield. My trailer was toast but the boat survived with little damage. But a plywood boat would be kindling. My plan is to mound a third brake light at eye level and take the rudder off. One thing I have learned. running with the 4 way flashers keeps people from tailgating. Check local regulations.
  8. Drew, Looks Awesome! Jay......I'll be anxious to see what you come up with.
  9. Are those side seats an extension if the seat across? That seems clever and desirable.
  10. That makes sense!
  11. OK, so I placed two layers of glass on the top of the tabernacle on each inner and outer face per instructions. Now that it is cured, when I put the bolt through the mast I'm left with about a full 1/8 to 3/16 total gap for both sides, which seems kind of sloppy. Is that right or should I add more glass strips to the interior faces to snug it up?
  12. For you non-facebookers building a CS Mark 3, here is some great motivation. Nice work Jay! Southern Express
  13. Chipping away. I had some old growth Douglas fir I was saving for a special occasion. I decided this qualifies. Tonight I'll fiberglass the pivot area as per plans. This took way more time than it should have, but that's typical. I can't permanently install it or my boat won't come out my walk out basement door, but I want to fasten it temporarily while I get the cabin top together which is coming soon.
  14. Drill a piece of thick hardwood on the drill press nice and square and use it to keep your hand drill square.
  15. I'm not sure what checking that "like" button does, but I was compelled to. As always Chick, awesome!