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Steve W

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Steve W last won the day on February 12

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About Steve W

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  • Birthday 09/12/1961

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  1. Pete, I remember the good fun had rigging the Suzy J. I can't wait to be where you are at. Thank you for all the detailed pictures and descriptions.
  2. Strange Quandary. Remember, my boat is #3, so this might be just applicable to early boats. In the pic below, you can see that the forward bulkhead has a width of just over 24". In Pete's fantastic notes he mentions he shaved a bit off the outside of the slot to get 24.5. No problem. The hanging knees I wired in and set the width at 24.5, giving two 3/4" beams a width of 23", same as the cabin opening. When measuring the hull width at both sets of knees it is perfect. Truly amazing ho accurate this kit is. The problem is at the 2nd bulkhead back. It is exactly 24". I put a board on it with a couple of spring clamps to keep it straight. Could it be squeezed in from 24.5 to exactly 24? If it did, it certainly can't be pressed back now that it's glassed in. Should I just cut 1/4" inch off both sides?
  3. Wow....looking good. Questions: What kind of paint did you use in the interior? Did you decide what you are going to do for cabin port lights? I like the oval dead-lights Graham has on Carlita. I don't think I need opening ones. Cab you see around the hull with standard mirrors? Is the grey below the waterline a barrier coat or the finished paint? Does that yellow dotted boundary on the driveway have any significance or is that your side after bringing the flowers late?
  4. Thanks for all who have gone before. I cam in this morning ready to ask questions, but I went back to Pete's post and there was everything I needed.
  5. Thank you for the pictures. I am also jealous of your shop space.
  6. Great pics. We are in similar spots progress wise. A couple of questions. Is the cleat along the cabin top left proud so you can plane it to match the curve of the cabin top? I don't think I see the aft cabin knee. I'm putting mine in just temporarily with plans to remove it. I think it is sort of in the way and when I went to see Doug Cameron's boat he didn't have one, so I'm good with leaving it out. I made a base out of a couple of cleats and screwed it in place to guide the strake and I will remove it after my cabin is done. Is the 75 degree slant the same on both your supports and do you think two per side is enough? Thanks
  7. I thought my build was slow! What's happening Alan and Taylor?
  8. That is what I thought. It seems that the cleat could be wider than 3/4" stock but maybe that's not necessary. Does anyone have a source for the gasket material used on the seat hatches? I know I saw this somewhere before but after a long search I can't seem to find it.
  9. I bought my oarlocks at Duckworks. They also have carbon fiber joints to make take-apart oars. I made my oars and made clips to hold the tips on the seats since the above pic was made, but it's not a perfect solution. Take apart oars would be better. I may eventually modify mine. I do order my epoxy and other stuff from B & B to support the brand.
  10. I made my gunwales blunt. I can't remember if this was in the plans or not. Not quite as good looking as Starboards. but still good looking.
  11. Chick, lot's of potential names, but none that have stuck. I know she'll come. Yeah....that OCD is tough. The good news is tonight I'll have the seat hatches just about done except for glassing the tops. That was a finicky but fun job! Question of the day. On the aft cabin panel, which tips forward a couple of degree, is the cross section of the cleat tapered or cut in any configuration. I can see the width scribed out on the panel, but I'm not sure if it's rectangular in x-section. It seems it should be cut at an angle so the seat tops glue properly.
  12. So I finally got the courage to glue down the cockpit floor. This might not seem like such a big deal, but to me it was a mental hurdle that I finally got over on Saturday. For those that don't know, the issue is the aft bulkhead of the water ballast tank. The floor goes right over it and not getting a good seal here will cause a leak that would suck, but also be really difficult to fix. My tank has every face glass cloth covered, except the edges of all the round passageways, and those I coated very well. On the top of all the cleat stock I coated everything very heavy. Not being able to attend to the joints after putting the top down means any water getting in any cracks is trapped and a potential source of rot. I considered cutting across the floor at the bulkhead location so it would be in two pieces, and I still think this isn't a bad idea. It would allow one to handle the tank sealing separately from the aft air chamber and I don't think it would have any effect on strength, especially if you glass it. That module is like a giant torsion box and its amazing how rigid the boat has become. Anyway, I wound up probably using more epoxy than necessary. First I lightly sanded and re-coated the bottom of the floor and all the cleats with unfilled epoxy. When it started to kick I took one of my daughters pastry bags and filled it with thickened epoxy and squeezed a nice thick bead across all the cleats and doubled up the aft bulkhead that I worried so much and then I set her down. Jay had a great idea of using a cell phone to look in and see if there was squeeze out. I took his advice and slid a flashlight in the hatch openings and through the big vent holes followed by a recording camera. The good news.....squeeze out. The bad news.....squeeze out. My OCD doesn't like the idea I couldn't reach in to wipe the joints nice and clean and I probably used more epoxy than necessary, but she's done. Hurray!
  13. I have the seat locker assemblies glued up and I've decided to glass them on top. The thought is to radius the top edge with a router and then drape glass cloth over the edge. In Alan's CS15 video, he shows the finished product, which looks sweet. When you do this, what happens in the corners? Wrap it like a present? Drape it and pleat the corners, trimming when green? Cut and overlap a bit? And finally, what weight cloth would you use? I might have some 4 ounce around.
  14. I'm assuming you are edge banding these, and if so you could take a slight skim off the to piece and shorten the lap a bit. Not sure if it's important. Did you order the deadlights from B & B as well? After watching Alan's video on Carlita I think when the time comes that might be a good option. And while we are talking about that, in the video I noticed Graham had added hinges to all the bunk hatches. I had my concerns they would bounce out. Are you planning on hinging them? Looking great BTW.
  15. Nice job. I feel kind of disappointed that I bought one from B & B. Working with fire is inherent to humans. Next time!