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Steve W

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Steve W last won the day on February 12

Steve W had the most liked content!

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About Steve W

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  • Birthday 09/12/1961

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  1. I get it, but didn't you build a boat with two bunks? My Sea Pearl only sleeps one, so a big part of building the CS is so I can bring her. But who knows if she will actually come with me once I finish it.
  2. Pete, she looks awesome. You should be proud! I can't wait to see it a the MASCF. I won't have mine done by then, but I'll be there and look forward to seeing Chessie and hopefully getting a sail. When the weather is right we sail out to Wye Island on Thursday and sail back Friday morning. Keep that in mind.
  3. Awesome! I think if you use propane tank, trailer hitch, old paint cans and an ammo box to weight hings down there might be a Jeff Foxworthy joke somewhere there! Looks a lot like what I do. Get yourself a cabinet scraper and learn how to sharpen it's edge. It makes cleaning up those joints really quick. Looking good!
  4. Thanks Alan for the dimension. I'm having fun. I here you about the stick pushing the side out. I think if I did this a second time I'd not fiberglass the transom (just wire it) in until the temporary gunnels were attached and then I'd use these "spreaders" to force the stern wide. You could also just lay the aft deck panel in to spread it. But my temporary gunnels wanted to force the top of the hull a bit straighter than the design. Pete had the same problem. I wound up off by about 5/16 of an inch on both sides where the spreaders are. I decided to glue in the deck support stringers using screw/pads from outside and then before the glue kicked put the spreaders in to push it our a bit. As far as I can tell there is no bump and the amount is so subtle the aft part of the gunnel isn't concave. But I will relax and split the difference to be sure. Part of my problem is I am too fussy!
  5. For the life of me I can't find the dimension the mast pivot hole should be from the front (or rear edge). Should it be the same as the dimension down from the top (1 9/16")?
  6. Mike, I built mine from scratch, so I'd ask Alan/Graham. But that said, the transom isn't perfectly at a right angle to the bottom hull panels. So I'd line it up at the top, and when you go to attach it to the hull, you'll have to shape (I use a hand plane/sandpaper) to the angle of the hull panels. I'm not sure what the instructions look like in a kit, but I think the instructions I have talk about this.
  7. Mike, she's fun to build. And getting questions answered here and calling B & B means you'll wind up with a great boat. Congratulations. I don't know if you saw this, but here is what you are building: Suzy J in the 1000 Islands
  8. That is awesome. More please!
  9. Graham, what do you think without the boomkin? I'm not going to have one as I'm hoping to fit this boat in my garage (I'll put a hinge on the tongue and it should be OK). Looking at the drawings it seems the arc of the mizzen sheet puts them right where they might snag. On my Sea Pearl it's a battle and so maybe I'm over sensitive to this issue. To lessen the possibility on the SP I moved the sheet attachment a bit forward, but this seems not possible on this type of rig. Maybe I'm worrying too much. Jay, Doug, Chick? Last night I fitted the cockpit drainage tubes. Not much excitement, but progress nonetheless. A suggestion to the good folks at B & B and anyone building this boat. At the point you attach the sheer strakes (and maybe even attaching the stern panel), put a "prop rod" between the aft bulkhead (blue below) and the hull, which of course is backed by the temporary gunnel. You could lay the cockpit top in to get the correct measurement. I was careful to try and get his geometry correct, but my seats don't quite fit until I forced them out a bit with what is going to be a permanent stringer now, right on the seat top/panel joint. I think it was Pete who commented on this first, and while I was careful, it still wasn't quite right. Pushing it out forcefully lets the tops sit right where they belong.
  10. Don, yes! I think the high free-board demands a good ladder. I'm hoping this solution works good. Unfortunately the reverse angle transom will cause installation issues, but I have a plan! Question for CS sailors: I am going to put those U-bolt cleats like Graham has on Carlita. Is there a rule as to where to locate them? They look like they could conveniently catch the mizzen sheet. I'm thinking the motor will catch it bad enough. Any thoughts? I want to drill and fill the holes before I add the aft deck.
  11. In case you all thought I had given up on "UnNamed", you would be wrong. I've been very busy with life, but not so busy I couldn't chip away at stuff. Her is a picture of my seat hatch frame as proof. It's been good therapy. I think I'm going to concentrate on he cockpit for a bit before I move to the cabin top.
  12.'s she doing?
  13. The Eddy & Duff "Stonehorse" to me is a beautiful boat with a raised sheer. And while not as pretty, Tanzer made many flush deck boats that were real good sailors and looked nice. To me, the performance, light weight and accommodations (less cabin, more cockpit) make the looks not as important. I will admit my plan when I get that far is to fool around with a paint scheme that will minimize the raise cabin. I'm currently favoring Carlita's colored Hull (mine will be dark Blue or Green) and solid top (cream) with the wood trim and the oval port lights. But ultimately I think once the trim and port-lights are installed Chessie is going to look sweet.
  14. Fantastic. I takes persistence to get his far. Nice job. I wish my wife was in on my build, but at least she approves!
  15. Pete, A couple of things: 1. Who made your cushions. I like that layout. 2. Ever use wag bags? simpler and less messy than a porta pottie. I don't want to turn your thread into a bathroom discussion, so google it an you can find all you need to know. I have 2.5 gallon bucket and a snap on seat and wag bags. Been using that system for years and it is simple. Take Care, Steve