Jump to content

jkeenan

Members
  • Posts

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jkeenan

  1. Check it out. Took the guess work out of it for me. http://www.ezacdc.com/
  2. Frank, I am on the low end of the bling sale. I am into my 271 Boat, Motor and Trailer for approx. $30K. Used motor and trailer. Epoxy was procured from US Composites at a fraction of the other guys. I was buying 6 gallon kits for about $45/gal delivered. The wiring kit from EZ ACDC was a huge money and time saver. Plus it took the guesswork out of connectors wire gauge heat shrink etc etc.
  3. 3 blade alum. quicksilver 14X13. http://boatpropellers.iboats.com/Honda/90_HP_(1999Newer)_13.00-Pitch_Black_Diamond_QA2032X_Propeller/211/19122/?cart_id=412948265
  4. I will need to look at it to be sure. I had a couple of props on the oat not sure whats on it now.
  5. I know I know a boat is never finished until it sinks. I did get around to adding the lower rub strip, and I think it looks great. The back door is assembled and varnished waiting to be installed before the season along with a fresh coat of paint all over some interior trim etc etc etc. Also a 1953 Chris Craft 17 foot mahogany utility with a small block in it to go into the garage fo restoration. Gonna be busy Yea
  6. I have not been here for a while, sorry I am late to the party. I am running a 2008 Honda 90 VTEC on my Bluejacket 271 .I purchased it used from a Honda Marine dealer, with 1000 hours the motor has performed flawlessly so far. My cost for the motor controls and the rigging that I did myself was less than 50% of a new one Observations after two seasons and a couple of hundred hours. Top Speed @ 6000RPM = 28MPH Cruising speed 18 - 20 MPH @4000RPM +/- Fuel economy 3 -4 MPG Weight of Boat, Motor, full fuel and water = 3600# The 90 is probably too much, but it is awfully nice to have the extra umph when navigating around the massive bleach bottles that throw up a tidal wave bow and stern when making way.
  7. Great input, I was thinking of placing a mast to the Starboard side of the sliding door. Securing the mast to the rear bulkhead and footed on the cockpit sole over a longitudinal member. BTW no Harleys, just a dinghy on the cabin top or a SUP or a Kayak
  8. Thank you PAR, I love your designs. I guess one of my immediate questions is: Can I place the mast off center and still be as effective?
  9. So great to see so many Bluejackets coming together and being used. After a 140 hours on our Bluejacket 271, all of them beyond expectation, we are considering what we can do (if anything) to improve the usability of the boat. One thought is the addition of a stay sail to reduce motion on the hook. Being a light boat with a good amount of wind-age, stability could stand a little improvement. Thoughts please
  10. Just curious, was my last post a real thread killer or did you find some value in the link?
  11. I found EZ AC DC a great deal easier than wiring from scratch. Very easy to use on my Blue Jacket 271. Plenty of flexibility and easy to understand. Here is a link to the "universal" wiring harness. I used the 25 to 39 foot harness. http://www.ezacdc.com/boat-wiring-products/boat-wiring-harness/ Good Luck Jim
  12. The previous post of that great looking Bluejacket has prompted me to post a couple from this past summer.
  13. Looking great. Nice job now enjoy your hard work.
  14. Here is another one. I have changed the prop and figuered out a few details. Looking to do more sea trails tomorrow.
  15. Tom, it is not the hindges on the curvature. When the hatch is sitting 180 degrees back the curves are opposite. I wanted to have some "clear" deck space to luonge or move around without a unstable hatch in the way. We are not getting any younger and footing is key on a small craft like this.
  16. I was waiting for someone to catch that. My redwing 18 was MS 18 RW My Bolger Diablo is MS 432 PB (Phil Bolger design number 432} You just have to ask if it is available.
  17. Tom Thank you. The forward hatch is below decks, it is on hindges that seperate. We did not want the hatch flat on the deck because of the curvature. It is simple to remove and replace. I may add an adjustable hatch lift setup for the times when we just want to ventilate the fore cabin.
  18. This is the best picture to post. First time in the water. Friday 6/12, four years and 11 days after the first sarf joint and one day short of four years from the first three dimensional day.
  19. Splinter, the dimensions for the DWL are not in the plans. For my BJ271 I was given "guidance" from another builder. I will find out very soon how close my boat is to his. I assume every boat will be a little differant. If you would like my dimensions from my boat I can measure for you. Cheers Jim
  20. Thank you all, Tom the blocking is in place and appropiate. The tip on chamfering the holes is pricless. I spoke with a senior RV tech and he suggested Butyl tape and Dicor. Seems (no pun) to work great on RV's exposed to very much the same conditions as a boat.
  21. Looking for some guidance here. Getting to the point of installing all of the non wood stuff. Motor, plumbing, lights, radio, horn, bilge pumps, etc, etc. You get the idea. So today while noodling where everything will be permanently mounted, it dawned on me that I will have several items that require thru the cabin roof sealing. What is the consensus? Gland fittings, Butyl tape, 3M 5200 or 4000 or some other solution. Looking forward to the discussion. Thanks Jim
  22. I am going with the SeaLand 711. Simple safe and odor free given our intended usage. Day tripping and weekends, at least for the first year or two.
  23. I am using a flexible water tank. No vent required/
  24. Ohh what a winter. No progress on my 271. It is somewhere in there.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.