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FloatingFinn

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Everything posted by FloatingFinn

  1. Thank you NY_Rocking_Chair! I got mine from Finnish kayak supply store, but Kudzu store has hatches too. http://www.kudzucraft.net/Boat-Building-Supplies/ I planned to put hatches on both ends, but couldnt fit the one on bow so it looked nice and so i wouldnt need to cut deck beams. So i decided to left the bow hatch off.
  2. Couple more pictures. Shows the kayak closer, so you get better idea how it looks. Deck rigging is going to get done before spring.
  3. Thank you Quiet! I would rather have summer all year round, but i guess our mild and short summer feels better after you wait it for 7 cold and dark months. It´s too early to say if the hatch is a lot of help, but if you carry camping gear with you i believe it will be a bit easier to load them in the kayak through the hatch. While building i was thinking if i needed the hatch or not and decided to put it there just in case. Much easier to put it there while building than add it later. I have a piece of plywood a bit bigger than the hatch lashed between the rear deckbeam and gunnel to fit the base of the hatch on. It was quite easy to add it and didn´t cost all that much, so i think it was worth the effort.
  4. Thank you Even-keeled! Hatch i put off-center so that i wouldnt need to cut rear deckbeam. I think sea is going to freeze here in 1.5-2 months from now, so i could go paddling again if i wanted it enough, but i think i´m going to wait until next summer and warm weather.
  5. After having fun 105 hours with building the Vardo, it was time to have another kind of fun paddling with it. It was only +3C°, but i had to try it out before winter!
  6. Since there wasnt any opinions on the coaming lip i went on the safe side and made it around 1/2 inch. Vardo is now ready for the paint and i put it on the scale and it weight 15.8kg (just under 35lbs).
  7. How wide lip is needed on the coaming to keep sprayskirt from slipping over it by it self? I thought about making two layer lamination for the lip. It would make it around 7mm thick (=0.28"). Do you think it´s enough, or should i laminate third layer to make it little over 10mm (=0.4") or even four layers?
  8. Thank you Hirilonde! After reading the article i think alkyd paint would propably be good stuff for painting my kayak with.
  9. Thank you very much Jeff for your quick reply! I will extend those stringers to go all the way. I believe those alkyd paints i´ve been looking for are oilbased? I have to confirm that from the store though.
  10. Hello from Finland! I´m currently building Vardo, whitch is my first boat build. Im in around 50 hours now, if you count all the hours ripping the wood and all. It´s getting on quite nice for my opinion, but i think i might of make a mistake? In the bow end i cut bottom stringers after the last frame (the one that bow assembly is attached). Now after watching some FROG pics on this forum i think those stringers were supposed to be attached to the bow assembly same way as the gunwales are? Does it make the skin go on wrong in the bow if the stringers arent going all the way, but are cut like they are in the stern end? I havent started lashing, so i could still remove the stringers and make another scarf joints on them if it´s recommended? Another thing that i wanted to ask, is if Alkyd paint would be good choise for polyester skin (original 8oz) or if i should look for some other option. Reason why i would like to use alkyd paint, is that it´s available locally in the colors i would like to use. Thank you for reading and your feed back!
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