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SteveH

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  1. Nice work, can you tell me more about the powder pigment and also what you then coated with? Thanks.
  2. So I worked it out - a lot less than the 100m I bought. Plenty left over for another boat or three. I really enjoyed the sewing in the end, actually probably more than the building as it was something I hadn't done before. I would like to go with a semi transparent finish (similar to the other boats you see hanging) for those I used a waterbased polyurethane and it worked really well but the cloth (dacron) is a tighter weave I think. I am thinking of using that Rustoleum leak seal down the seam and then some sort of oil based poly over the whole thing. I know it's been asked a thousand times before but what should I look for in a poly given that the brands we have available here in NZ are different to the majority in the US. Here are a few pics
  3. I'm not scared of sewing I just have used the heat bond before and see no reason why it wont work on these boats. I have some ideas for the seam. Only thing is I have already oiled the frame so dont know if the tape will bond to it very well so ill leave it for another boat and sew this one. Back to my original question - how much thread do I need to buy? If I use 60-80lb braided spectra do i use single thread or double it and tie a knot? Would 50' be enough for the curlew? 14 for the running and rest for the whip?
  4. Thanks Andy, that sounds like a good approach. I like it and will adopt it if I stitch. I'm still contemplating the heat'n'bond tape method though. I know it works well for open canoe type boats I don't see why it wouldnt work for a kayak.
  5. Thanks Ben, yes I have my 2nd roll of sinew too, suppose I could use that. Just on what you said - do you use one piece of thread to say do from coaming to bow? i.e. One piece so you dont have to splice/join somewhere halfway along? Its just the videos I've watched all dont seem to have thread anywhere long enough to get all the way through? Another thought I've had is instead of stitching has anyone ever used glue tape? Ive made a couple of skin on frames boats of Platt Monfort design (GA Boats) and the dacron skin is just stuck to the keel and gunwales with this tape using an iron to melt the glue. It works very well and my skins are still drum tight and dont look like ever coming off. I wonder why we cant do that on these boats? Any thoughts Jeff or anyone else?
  6. I am getting close to skinning the Curlew and was wondering if anyone can tell me roughly how much thread you use to skin a boat (curlew in particular). Reason being is that I plan on buying my thread (80lb braided spectra) from the local fishing shop and he sells it per foot off a bulk roll. Also, any recommendations on line to use? I see someone in another thread recommended the spiderwire brand at 65lb. I believe this is waxed - is this a good or bad thing? The stuff I'm looking at is rated at 80lb and made by Fins, it's just a braided spectra. Thanks.
  7. Haha - yeah mate, I'm in New Zealand (bottom of South Island). Lots of other projects on the go at the moment but should be in the water by Spring. Cheers Steve
  8. All lashed up - love that construction method - as strong as any glue joint but with a bit of flex so she'll swim like a fish! Marine ply frames and Western Red Cedar stringers. Not oiled yet. Coaming hoop just sitting on there for looks.
  9. Ok, perfect. Understand now - thanks Jeff. Should have a frog out this weekend sometime.
  10. So I've finally found time to get back onto this, I have cut the corrected frames and bracket and it's looking a lot better. I actually have 90% of the lashing done but my question is where does the coaming sit fore and aft? Do we make the inside aft edge of the bottom ring sit flush with the aft frame (5'4" I think?) Or do we bring it forward an inch or so to clear the top stringer that sticks out a bit? Not being a sea kayaker (yet) I presume you don't lean against the coaming with your back - it's just to fit the skirt right? If I know how it's used and it's function I can nut it out but just want to know so I can lash the top stingers (the centre aft and the 2 fwd that it rests on) in the right place. Thanks
  11. Well that's the reason I ask - as my 11'6" frames appears to have been not changed i.e. The gunwales appear to need to be cut in further. But yes I have stopped and will wait for your advice before cutting any more wood.
  12. Dave - just checked my 11'6" frame and yes my notches are too shallow there as well. I hadn't noticed it yet as all my attention was further aft and I haven't cut the stringers into the bow yet so they're all sticking out a bit. But yes it appears they need to be cut in a bit. Decided to look at all the others and the 5' 4" looks a bit shallow too. As far as the keelson is concerned I think the step in the 4'4.5" bracket is too high, if it was cut down a bit it would allow the keel to full into a fair curve. Also, with the 7' frame being too narrow I was going to cut the frame and extend both pieces out to meet the gunwales and rejoin the frame like a splint on a broken leg (with epoxy and ply) however, my neighbour has just come up with a good idea - leave the frame in place and glue in some short doublers out between the gunwale/stringer and the frame to take up the slack instead. Jeff - have I been sold some old plans?
  13. Thanks very much for the info Dave - really appreciate it. Was beginning to think I was going mad and self doubt was creeping in but I've lost count of how many times I've measured everything and eyed up the lines and they just don't look right. I've built a few small boats/kayaks/SUP's etc before so I have half an idea on what's going on haha. I will wait till Jeff comes back with some input but I think I'll end up widening frame 7 and I might looking at putting a fair curve back into the keel (by altering the bracket steps slightly). I know Jeff says and alteration to his plans voids all warranty and support but I would rather build a boat that "looks" right. We'll wait for Jeff's input but if you haven't skinned it you might be able to let frame 7 go and remanufacture one to slip in? Anyway thanks very much for taking the time to reply.
  14. Firstly, how long has the 7' frame been "wrong" for and why am I the only one to notice it? Secondly it's not so much the misalignment of the top pieces that are supposed to mate with the coaming (I can fix that myself) it's more the fact that the whole frame is not wide enough (by about 1 inch). As I alluded to before I could pull the stringers and gunwales in but I don't want to do that - it would look like a wineglass. Again - why has no one else noticed this? You could send me the new plan if it incorporates the new width (you have my email). Otherwise I will just fabricate a new frame myself by cutting this one in the centre and widening it with scraps and epoxy. Not ideal as it's the only visible frame and will look a bit average and if that doesn't work I'm not looking forward to buying a whole new sheet of 1/2" marine ply to cut one frame.
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