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roam

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roam last won the day on May 4

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  1. Thanks for the tips. I've already placed the order for the 2lb foam so i'll plan on using a plywood top.
  2. Thanks again, I'll order some 2lb foam and will let you know how it goes.
  3. Thanks for the response. I was thinking I could mold the expanding foam in place. Basically put a lengthwise dam between the aft seats and the thwart cover everything with wax paper and then let the expanding foam mold itself to the curves of the hull. The thought was the only shaping I would have to do would be get the top of the foam blocks flat. From the little research I've done I was thinking 4lb foam would be needed for the strength. Do you think 2lb foam would be strong enough to sit on? I hadn't though about plywood boxes. Trying to build a box that would match the contours of the hull would be beyond my ability. Blue foam would be easier to work than plywood but would still take some artistry to get it to fit. Thanks, Hugh
  4. I've been thinking of using Urethane expanding foam to add removable seats to the rear half of my Nesting Spindrift. This would also add buoyance if the boat was swamped or capsized. I was wondering if anyone had done this and what type of foam to use. I see that you can get the foam in various weights. I was thinking I might wrap the foam in fiberglass after it was shaped to add strength if necessary but if the foam was strong enough to sit on without reinforcement that would make the job easier. Thoughts? thanks, Hugh
  5. As far as cutting the holes out I found that trying to cut the complete circle with the jig saw to be a bit of a disaster. On the second on I drilled a center hole and then made about a dozen straight cuts out to the circumference. This allowed me to make a much rounder hole for the second hatch. I also put a second layer of ply in the seats behind the hatches so ended cutting 4 holes. The ply doublers are less for strength then so the screw tips wouldn't be sticking out into my storage area.
  6. Thanks for all the comments. Most of the dry spots ended up being ground out as they were poking up over the rest of the area. I ended up filling the resulting divots with ez-weld wood repair epoxy. I think it'll look fine when it's done but the fiberglass wont be providing much structural integrity in those areas. It's definitely been quite the learning experience and I'm thinking of building another boat after this, though something smaller like a kayak or canoe. Since I've been buying woodworking tools during the build it would be a shame to only use them once.
  7. Well I didn't quite get to the painting stage but I am a bit closer. It ended up taking days to sand the hull down but now it's nice and smooth. At this point I still need to install the dagger board trunk, put in the mast step, and install the top of the forward seating area. The bolt holes for the two hulls ended up getting filled with epoxy and I was a bit sloppy drilling them out so I'll be filling them back up with epoxy and redriling them to get a better fit between the hulls. Hopefully I'll be able to start painting the interior by next weekend (hopefully). I didn't do the rope bit on the daggerboard as I was planning on covering the leading edge and keel with kevlar but the kevlar fabric I got was a complete mess so I'm on to plan B which is to just use a thin layer of sacrificial wood on the keel and just living with the daggerboard the way it is. You can see the dagger board in the foreground which is what the hull looked like before the days of sanding . I didn't round the edges of the hull where they mate which was a mistake so I ended up with some dry spots in the fiberglass on that edge.
  8. I'm going to be taking next week off so I'm hoping to get to the painting stage which leads me to ask what are my options for paint and how much paint will I likely need? I would like to paint the interior and bottom of the boat a flat white and the topsides a dark blue. I'm planning on leaving the gunwales and seating areas bright. thanks, Hugh
  9. My philosophy to fairing the inside tape was to get the edges smooth enough that it wouldn't be unpleasant when I was barefooted in the boat.
  10. Latest progress. I've sealed the interior of the aft hull with expoxy and mounted the seat tops. I then got the aft hull flipped and fiberglassed the whole thing. That went pretty smoothly. If you want to make cutting fiberglass cutting eash and get really clean cuts I recommend picking up a cloth cutting wheel from the local crafts store. Much easier than a pair of scissors or a razor blade. Putting on that first coat of epoxy really makes the boat looks so much better. I've put on the first filler coat of expoxy on the bottom since I took this picture and after I put on a second coat I'll take the boat off the saw horses so I can start filling in the sides and transom while they're facing up and can start fiberglassing the forward hull. -Hugh
  11. Too close the gap on my kit I found it easiest to put the twist of the wires on the inside of the boat and pulling up when tightening. I had a gap similar to yours which I was able to close completely with this method. I did add additional wires between the ones shown on your pictures. In case my post wasn't clear you can see the additional wires I used to close the gap in my attached picture.
  12. Walt, sorry I don't have pictures of fitting the keel. Big night last night. Getting my nerve up. Moment of truth, breathe deep. It fits! Well sort of, I started freaking out about the hull contacting the seats but then I realized I haven't put the keel on which will raise the hull a bit. I'll leave freaking out for another day.
  13. Since I last posted I did a fill coat on the interior fiberglass seems and flipped the boat and rounded the chines and filled in all the holes. Now everything is nice and smooooth. I've also started work on the dagger board. The next step is flipping it back over and chopping it in half. After the plane my second favorite wood working tool is my soldering iron. If any of your temporary (or permanent) screws get epoxied in you can just heat up the screw with the soldering iron and the screws come right out. You can also use it to remove globs of hardened epoxy. A lot less work then trying to sand them down.
  14. You'll be removing the bulkhead to apply glue to it so you may want to wait till that point to drill the holes. I also found that the spacers between my bulkheads shrank over time so that now my saw barely fits. It was probably caused by having the bulkheads bolted together compressing the cardboard.
  15. I don't believe the parts you pictured get a fillet. I also built a single piece cradle stand. I figured it would be easier and it would keep the two cradles in the same place in relation to one another. I don't know if yours is similar to mine but the one issue with mine is getting underneath the boat to tighten the wires when you do the unfolding. The one issue I had with laying the fiberglass tape on the insides was the area around the supports of the nesting bulkheads. You'll definitely want to put a fillet there. If I was to do it all again I'm thinking I would add 2" strip at the bottom of the nesting bulkheads between the center and outside supports. This would give you a single flat plane to apply the fillets and fiberglass tape to.