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Walt S.

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Walt S. last won the day on July 24

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About Walt S.

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  1. Sandpaper

    If I could sand my boat all over again, I would've taken Dave's suggestion. I also like the 3M scotch-brite scrub pads of various grits. I found the very-fine pad to be great between finish coats. For the RO sander, I just use 8-hole 80-grit discs from Home Depot and replace them often. I'm coming to hate production sandpaper.
  2. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    Will there be a sailing version? What was the final weight?
  3. Spindrift 12 build log

    I suppose I could put something like this on the back and just drill. There's nothing that says I can't drill into the frame. I can also U-bolt on new bunk brackets. I guess the remaining question is, "Can I make the suspension the appropriate weight?" Generally, these PVC suspensions are rated to 1000 lbs. Even if I pulled out springs, I doubt I could get it down below 500 lbs.
  4. Spindrift 12 build log

    @Steve W @Thrillsbe I see a couple of PWC trailers. They aren't drilled for bunk brackets nor do they have keel rollers. I'd also have to take out springs. Here's a good example: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tro/d/shorelander-single-pwc-trailer/6256041125.html Does this look like a bargain? I'm concerned I'd put another $200 into it and a lot of work and still not get what I want.
  5. how to post photos

    I can't get the 'drag files here' feature to work.
  6. Spindrift 12 build log

    Still waiting to hear on whether I can buy a used trailer with a spring weight capacity of 500 lbs. If not, I"m buying a Trailex 250-S. Anderson bailer installation follows. I went underneath the boat and measured over from the centerline 3/8" for the keel + 3/8" for the bailer flange + 1/2" for a safety margin and to clear most of the centerboard trunk glass tape. Then I traced around the cardboard template. I drilled a small hole in one corner of the template trace to mark that corner. I positioned the corner of the template over the hole drilled from underneath the boat and measured to ensure that the template was parallel to the centerline After measuring to ensure that the template was parallel to the centerline, I drew around it. I routed out the inlay using a dremel pretty much how Alan did it in his Coresound 15 build (video 18 or 19). I drilled 1/8" holes through the Anderson bailer's fastener holes into the hull as I set it in the cut-out. Then I widened the holes to 3/16" to be plugged with epoxy and cabosil. I counter-sunk each hole. I put 3 coats of epoxy on the inlay. I bedded-in the bailer with LifeCalk and put the bolts through the 1/8" re-drilled holes. The bailer ended up 3/4" over from the keel.
  7. Marissa # 63

    Looking through the description of Marissa on B and B Yacht Designs, this looks like a power boat intended for people with a lot of common sense because of its low cost of ownership. Out here, people like throwing $50k at a MasterCraft and another $50k on the truck to pull it. Common sense is uncommon in the land of the fruits, nuts and flakes. Do you guys sell many of these plans and kits?
  8. Marissa # 63

    Yeah that is a baller shed. It also has all the tools I don't have but needed.
  9. Spindrift 12 build log

    Here's another trailer option I found over on the Wooden Boat Forum. I've also heard of people converting kayak trailers for light wooden boats. I think I've come full-circle on Trailex also. I might just order one.
  10. Spindrift 12 build log

    Here are some good threads on the wooden boat forums about foot stretchers. As a temporary solution until I put down non-skid, I think I'm just going to get some nylon webbing and loop it around the centerboard trunk and tie loops in both ends to make foot stirrups. I'm not thrilled with the idea of drilling through the hull or longitudinal bulkheads to put down cleats for stretchers or anything like that.
  11. Spindrift 12 build log

    Dave, Do you have any examples of a good removable foot block for rowing?
  12. Spindrift 12 build log

    Does anyone have an opinion on this CE Smith trailer? It looks like I can remove at least 1 leaf spring on either side to somewhat match the net weight capacity to my boat. There are no keel rollers, so I might have to add some. 8" tires are attractive since I won't have to back all the way into the water. It goes together faster than I can travel to a nearby county and back. I'm going to check out a couple of other trailers this week. I can't find anything used that doesn't require a lot of money/work.
  13. Spindrift 12 build log

    Welp, 3M 101 has been discontinued. I'm buying some LifeCalk. I routed the Anderson/Elvestrom bailer inlay last week and will post pictures of the process later. I am putting on the keel today. I ordered 8' Qualicum oars and leathers with 2" galvanized iron oarlocks.
  14. Spindrift 12 build log

    Thanks. I widened the trunk by an extra 1/8" before putting it in. I was worried about the centerboard sticking. Routing the centerboard slot went really well. Using a trick from another guy on here, I leveled the sawhorses in the port/starboard direction and then flipped the boat over onto them. I then set the router on the centerline and leveled it using shims between the router base and the hull. I marked the shims and taped them onto the router based and then attached the edge trimmer. A picture is worth a thousand words: Next, I used the round-over bit. That went less-well, but my screw-ups can be fixed easily and will be glassed-over anyway: I think I'm going to put on the keel, coat it with 3 coats of epoxy, and then splash it. I need to add oar locks as well. I'll paint the outside in the coming weeks.
  15. Spindrift 12 build log

    Chick, Thanks. Yes, I'm going to use an edge trimmer to route the slot then a 1/4" round-over bit followed by some glass tape. I'd like to try biaxial tape at some point, but not this project. A third coat of paint really isn't needed, though a few spots need touch-up, particularly along the seams.
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