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Walt S.

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Walt S. last won the day on October 11 2016

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About Walt S.

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  1. PAR, Awlgrip Griptex sure isn't cheap! Anyone want to go in on a quart of extra-coarse with me?
  2. Graham, What's the brand?
  3. How's the grip on that, Don?
  4. Thanks. The more I think about it, the less appealing non-skid sounds. In bare feet, it won't be pleasant. It doesn't grip well when wet. What do you think of this stuff instead?
  5. If you use epoxy, why even through-bolt the deckplates and bailer in? In some of the pictures on the B and B website, it looks like the deckplates are just glued on without hardware. I was thinking about how I didn't want to have to wait for 3 coats of epoxy to cure before I bedded-in the bailer. It's great to know I can just glue it right in.
  6. You recommended 6061 Al awhile back for corrosion resistance, which is basically aircraft or gun aluminum. Aren't there coatings you can put on aluminum that reduce corrosion? I was thinking about buying a countersink and drill for some flat 316 SS stock but you could also have this fabricated. They could tap the holes at the same time. TACO sells round SS hollow-back in 6' sections that's already countersunk for the stem. Of course, this could require some hammering to the correct radius if you're installing it from the flatter forward edge of the keel up the stem. The flat stock could alternatively be hammered rounder, but this wouldn't be fun either. You'd probably need some thick round stock to beat the flat stock against. With shipping costs and tooling costs and tool setup time, I think it's probably cheaper to go to a local metal fabricator and have them cut, radius, drill, tap, and countersink everything for you if you're going to use SS. Bending the whole thing around the stem sounds like a lot of work too.
  7. Non-skid! I think I'm going to use this where I plant my feet to row. It won't be as good as gluing in a foot block, but better for different leg lengths. I plan to have my wife row me a lot.
  8. Here are the oars recommended on another thread, already varnished. If you're going to row a lot, longer is better.
  9. Dave means, "3M 101 marine sealant," when he writes, "101." This is probably what I'm going to use for all hardware except the Beckson deckplates which say they require pure silicone for bedding. As to the butyl rubber, this seems like a good option if you can identify a good brand. There is a wide range of quality, workability and cure times for liquid butyl rubber and tape based on the reviews I've read. There are not strong incentives to make high quality products in the construction industry these days.
  10. Yes.
  11. Do you remember the name of the video?
  12. Here's Dave's guide to hardware adhesives: Here's a good write-up on butyl tape:
  13. In an effort to make this thread into a seed for a Wiki page for the smaller B and B boats, I emailed Alan and Dave to ask them how they put in keel strips. I have one boatbuildigng book by Devlin and the other by the Gougeons and neither explain how to install keel strips. He does not think this is an area to skimp after spending so many long hours building the boat. Devlin just recommends using 316 grade stainless steel for all rubstribs and keel strips or brass for the keel and installing the hardware with 3M 5200 or Sikaflex. On another thread, Dave thinks that ALL hardware is a temporary installation and to use an adhesive that allows you to get it off later. I will post Dave's adhesive recommendations in another comment. On the process of keel strips, Alan writes Alan also recommends bedding Anderson/Elvestrom bailers in with liquid butyl rubber after routing out the bailer inset and putting a few coats of epoxy on it. Graham likes to put his bailers in directly with thickened epoxy.
  14. I might put 1/2"-wide Xynole on the stem. PAR likes to use epoxy mixed with rock powder on high-abrasion areas, but is also a fan of xynole. Does it come in a tape?
  15. THanks, Alan! I'll post another picture of the installed centerboard trunk later. I ended up dado'ing the trunk stiffeners and the thwart beams with a Dremel and it worked quite well. Leveling the centerboard trunk required a ton of fussing with it and eventually you just put it in. Guys, I'm looking to finish this boat this month. Painting will drag into next month when it's warmer. I was looking at the Interlux Interstain product. I'd like the gunwales and boom to have a darker color. Interlux claims INterstain can be mixed with its varnish to give a darker color. I'd prefer to do this after epoxying the gunwales. Has anyone tried using Interstain as a pigment for the Schooner varnish?