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Walt S.

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Walt S. last won the day on May 6

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About Walt S.

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  1. Thanks Ken! I'm discovering why boatbuilding is 80% sanding. I don't like sanding!
  2. Despite cleaning up underneath the gunwales, I still had to use a dremel and a sanding block to clean up the underside. Be sure to put enough permanent screws into the breathook and quarter knees as dictated by the plans. I thought you were supposed to take all of the screws out and one of the gunwales broke free from the breasthook.
  3. Does anyone know if you can paint successive coats of Interlux primer and Brightsides without sanding in between? I'm wondering if it's like epoxy where you can put another layer on without sanding as long as it's within the cure window of the previous layer.
  4. Is it ok to get inside the boat to sand it while it's on the sawhorses?
  5. I should've bought one of these instead of a corner sander.
  6. Captain Bligh was an incredible seaman though.
  7. Robert, Do you plan on cruising the coast north of Point Conception with this?
  8. Fantastic project! I think you and I have been on the same websites. Just today, I was reading about sprit sails and balanced lug rigs (I haven't finished my boat). Duckworks has a few good articles on the latter: http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/13/howto/lugsail/index.htm http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/howto/lugsails/index.htm Seems like someone could try adding a bowsprit onto their Spindrift to add a jib for better upwind performance. Here's Christine DeMerchan'ts writeup of spritsails: http://www.christinedemerchant.com/sail_sprit_sail.html
  9. Time to add more pictures. For nonskid, I bought a quarter-pint of SoftSand rubber particles (coarse grain) which is enough for a quart of paint. $10. I'll post pictures when I'm done with it. Here are the glued seat tops, ready for installation. I sanded the epoxy where they contact the stringers in preparation for gluing. While they were dry-fit in the boat, I used a staple gun to hold the panels together in their positions while I glued the butt-blocks in-situ. I glued the butt blocks by laying some 3/4" solid wood covered in plastic across the stringers and put the butt-blocks on top of the solid wood and laid the panels on the butt-blocks with some weight to add clamping pressure. Gluing the butt-blocks in-situ maintains the dry fit. Finally gluing-down the seat tops. I did it just like Alan did in his CS15 video, using brad nails where I felt space between the seat stringers and the seat tops. Here, applying epoxy from a squeeze bag and spreading it with a West 809 spreader was very effective. Say what you want about 5 lb dumbells, but you never know when you'll need them. This is a picture of the staples used to maintain the spacings from the dry-fit. Current status: seat tops and foredeck have been filleted and taped. I just leveld the boat fore and aft with a water level (clear acrylic tubing attached to the bow and where the transom meets the gunwales with water poured up to the level of where the gunwales meet the transom) and a $30 laser level, finding a 1/8" disagreement between the two methods. I put the Beckson deckplates in with epoxy. After painting, I need to check the compartments for air tightness. Does anyone have a good method of doing this? The last thing I need is for this boat to sink. I think Don(?) mentioned filleting with a plastic spoon on another thread. I tried this with the seat tops and foredeck. It's an excellent way of getting the epoxy out of the pot and onto the boat and creating initial fillets. It's particularly good for scraping off the lines of excess epoxy created by filleting. I found that the spoon didn't give enough volume to the fillets for an the angle of plywood I was trying to fillet. I still had to go back and add volume to the fillets with a B and B filleting stick. Still, the method speeds up the process greatly and makes it much easier to do the final cleanup of epoxy with a putty knife.
  10. How does it point upwind? How is it to reef?
  11. IDK, I think I'd use a Sawzall to cut out as much of the centerboard trunk as possible while leaving the cap and thwarts intact. Maybe you can angle a new centerboard trunk underneath the existing thwarts and re-use the cap on the new one. You can first back out the screws holding the thwarts to the trunk by heating them with a soldering iron. Then I'd use a rotary tool to try to route out the bad wood around the batten and step so that you can inspect both. I'd also try to use the rotary tool to cut the joint between the bulkhead and the trunk. Rotary tools are great for routing off excess epoxy and wood.
  12. Another thousand is only .5 boatbux. I thought about buying an old trailer and fixing it up but decided I need to finish the boat project which should end in about a month. I have money but not time. Reading through PAR and Graham's list of requirements for a boat trailer, I don't think I could even modify one to be right for a light sailboat. Trailex for me. I saw a trailer modification project on Duckworks or some other forum. I think the guy started out with the HF trailer and put a few hundred extra bucks into modifying it. I'll see if I can find it later.
  13. I'm buying a Trailex brand new. There are cheaper options, such as a Harbor Freight trailer, but they all require a lot of work. Cheap trailers seem easy to find in areas with a lot of small boats, like the East Coast.
  14. I'm probably the king of panicking and I second this advice. Trust me, if I can get most of the way through a boat build you can put in a new centerboard trunk.
  15. Do you have any pictures of fitting the keel? If you wait to install the keel, you can cut out the centerboard slot with a router and edge trimmer. Alan does this in one of his Coresound 15 videos. The glass job, chines, and fairing look great, btw.