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gbt

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gbt last won the day on March 16

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About gbt

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 11/20/1961

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Greenville, NC
  • Interests
    Boating, fishing, flying

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  1. Made 2 of these a few weeks ago, cut them on a water jet out of 3/8" aluminum and going to either polish them or maybe powder coat them ( silver) I am also thinking I should clear coat them. Planning on mounting them on either side towards the back, probably use a drill and tap the back side and use a hidden screw from the back that way they will look clean and less of a chance for water to get through.
  2. How are you planning on getting the controls and power to the engine? or engines? We went through the top of the platform so we did not have to step over the engine controls , I had mixed emotions about going through the back of the transom, didn't want to loose the space for a fish box or storage. Just curious, enjoying the updates on your built.
  3. Thanks, I enjoy your updates on your project also.
  4. Update...!!
  5. Thanks for the advice guys. I have not though about using a resin and filler mixture instead of the tube/sleeve method and that seems a reasonable solution. I am looking at all the options and I am planning on using a backing plate on the back side of the transom anyway but just wanted to be as prepared as possible to eliminate future problems. Thanks again , also here is picture of the floor between the front bench seats.
  6. The G10 tubes (yellow)are stronger than just epoxy resin, the 1" OD by 1/4" wall thickness and 1/2 " ID tube had a tensile strength of 32,000 psi and impact strenght of 5.5 ft-lbs/in because of being made with resin and fiberglass fabric and there are also Structural fiberglass tubes (green) that have 30,000 psi tensile strength with 25 ft-lbs/in that are even stronger . But I also though about making the sleeve out of brass or even stainless steel and I know that would be even stronger. I think it would be better to do it out of G10 or Structural Fiberglass versuss brass or SS because I can glue them in and don't have to worry about water getting in the hole. That is what I am thinking, I just don't have previous experience with that sort of thing so I need to figure it out. Thanks for the input, that helps me get the info I am looking for.
  7. Thanks guys for the input. We did buy the 2017 white motors with the new decals, we received them 2 months ago and itching to get them on the boat. I am planning on installing crush sleeves through the transom where the bolts come through for the motors. We are planning to use the Garolite G10 composite tubing and epoxy them so there is very little compression from the bolt motors, we are also going to use a backing plate on the back side top to help with the load stress of the motors tork. Every motor we installed in the past we had to go back and retork the bolts over time and with the transom being built out of plywood I think it would be better to keep it from cracking the paint and compressing the wood. Didn't know if anyone else has done this before and had any suggestions or better way of dealing with it. Thanks again for the input.
  8. We are using twin Suzuki 175's and we decided to go with the electronic throttle / shifting controls, I have not used them before but heard good things about them. We originally planned on twin Yamaha 150's but with the extra things added to the boat we felt extra HP would be safer, Yamaha does have 175's but they are not available with counter rotation and the electronic controls start at 200"s and up. You can always throttle back and I am big believer of no substitute for extra HP when you need it. The Suzuki 150's and 175's are virtually the same motors weigh and displacement wise and also about $4,000.00 less than Yamaha.
  9. No this is the floor section in the forward seating, it has a hatch on the floor.
  10. Thanks Farmboy and you are welcome. We are working on the teak floor for the forward raised floor area, once we get it done will be glued and the hatch will be fitted.
  11. A few more pictures
  12. Keep working on it, a little slow these last 2 weeks. Shaped the bow toe rail, working on the hatches, installed more teak on the hatch rings where plywood edge was showing and trimmed out the anchor hatch with teak trying to dress it up a little. Also fared the bow and mid rails. Hope we can start sanding and touching up the hull this week.
  13. Jay and any one else that is interested on seeing the boat in person you are welcome to come by the house / shop just PM me and we can make arrangements. Have a great day
  14. Hello Oyster Yeah we are redoing some stuff that should have been done differently, it hasn't been too bad. Overall it is good, just having a different set of eyes looking at something and having friends that are experienced boat builders has been very helpful. Their insight and knowledge is eye opening, I have learned a lot through this experience and if I ever built another boat (and probably will after I recover from this one) will be a lot better. We are hoping to get the hull work done and painted by the first week in June and then I have to hang the engines, finish the wiring, rigging and plumbing which will take me 4-6 weeks since I have a business to run and will be doing that work at nights and weekends. If all goes well we will be doing sea trials by the end of July, the boat will be located on the Pamlico river and plan on running it between Bath and Ocracoke this Summer, hope to do some fishing late summer and through the rest of the year. Where are you located? As far as Jay's question to what shop I am in, all I can say it is a very professional shop with a lot of history behind it. Have a great day