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greendane

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greendane last won the day on April 27

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About greendane

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    Stanwood, WA (Puget Sound)

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  1. So nothing ever seems to go as smooth as we hope. Or as I hope anyway. With 5052 aluminum they have to manufacture "flat bar" from a sheet. For the wide one it was fine though did have a slight bow. I straightened it out gently pulling it over a saw horse with firm but mild pressure. The 3/4" piece is another story. It came out with a bow, a twist and a warp. The bow was managed easily enough. And the twist took some twisting in the other direction while clamped. The warp was another story. I started by running it under a mallet. No real movement. But then I clamped it to a table and started working it a. It at a time. It'll be fine. Total of about 45 minutes farting around. Chapter two has to do with me giving them dimensions for the larger one that were a 1/4" too wide. Ugh. So I'm going to build a jig on my table saw to cut that last bit off. Hope that goes as easy as the rest.
  2. Yeah, EZ Loaders is mostly what I find here too. Be patient and check multiple times daily. There are good apps for CraigsList that allow you to check multiple areas at once (I live on a county line so there are two areas I want to see from and don't want to bounce in and out of craigslist serching).
  3. You guys are probably right. I doubt I can return the tube now. Some lessons are more expensive than others. @PaulSmith...the consolation I have on avoiding the twist is using this method (it's all about marking the pipe to get that top line). And this is set up almost exactly to what I imagine cutting off:
  4. @Walt S. As a starting point, I was looking at 3/4" wide. I'm going to use 6061 round tube (just for the 39" of stem I am doing) and rip it lengthwise using a band saw (I'll need to find-a-friend as I don't have one), probably about 1/3 of the circle. I'll make a plywood jig to match the curve of the bow stem and then play with it until it fits. The radius of the stem goes from about 100 degrees down to about 60, so I'll need to work that part too. I don't think it will be especially pretty, and the right way to do it would be to flatten the stem itself, re-glass and re-epoxy and re-paint and use a half round solid stock, but it's too late for that for me. I'll be fighting it wanting to flatten the radius a bit, but I don't think it will be too bad given it is starting as a tube. The other recommendation they made, that I think would work fine, is to take the length of tube, bend it first to approximate shape, and then cut with a band saw against a fence afterwards. They said the metal, even if it sprung back some, would retain the memory of the bend. I don't have the tools for that approach, so going with option one. The worst part about the tubing is that it is far more expensive than the flat bar. 10 feet of 1.5" W 1/8" 5052 was $16.55. The second piece (for the skeg, but 3/4" wide and 40" long) was $3.34. The 40" tube however (6061) was $42.37. The first two also had a $7 each cutting fee, and the tube was $1.10 to cut. Total price, $85.
  5. A shout out to the great folks at Metal Supermarkets. I went in to see about getting the aluminum strips for the keel and they were very helpful. And I only had to go to Everett instead of Seattle for Online Metals. As a bonus, he's able to sheer off some 5052 from a sheet in lieu of bar stock (which is pretty readily available in 6061) and phoned a couple of metal artisans in his network to see about fabricating the stem. They passed on their approach which I think is going to work.
  6. Thanks Paul. There's this one here for $400. I think these are the same CE Smith that are available through Cabela's for about $900 Capacity = 800lbs. But at $400, I'd still need to add rollers--probably at least 3, maybe 4? That's another $100-$150. And it looks like this one could use some bearing buddies. (The rollers I have are pretty hammered. I think only one turns. I might be able to rebuild them for less though?) But given the overhang code in the RCW, I get a little concerned. I was in North Carolina a few weeks ago and the highways are so much less congested that I think its easier for guys like @Alan Stewart to get away with overhang like the below. I take both the motor and the rudder off when I trailer it. But maybe it would be ok? As rickety as mine is, what I like about it is that there is a walk way down the middle. I usually back down until the aft roller is just under the water surface. But this usually means the wheels are submerged. In saltwater no less. It also has a pretty long tongue that allows me to put the tailgate on my pickup down to see when backing up for retrieval. By the time I can see the trailer in my mirror it's already too far gone. But if I add guides to the end of the new trailer, that might solve that problem. Or I could get a shin-buster (aka hitch extension) to get the crank out past the tailgate. This trailer is a bit longer.
  7. All that said, I think I'll concern myself less with the overhang and more with the tongue weight and axel placement. The biggest hassle I see on Craigslist is that most trailers come with a boat you have to get rid of that doesn't work. 😉
  8. Hi Paul. I asked a State Trooper I know. While it may not be that it is enforced much, this RCW applies if I understood him correctly. RCW 46.37.140 Lamps, reflectors, and flags on projecting load. (1) On any vehicle having a load that extends more than four inches beyond its sides or more than four feet beyond its rear, there must be displayed red or orange fluorescent warning flags, not less than eighteen inches square, marking the extremities of such loads. (2) Whenever the load upon any vehicle extends to the rear four feet or more beyond the bed or body of the vehicle, there must be displayed at the extreme rear end of the load at the times specified in RCW 46.37.020: (a) Two red lamps, visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet to the rear; (b) Two red reflectors, visible at night from all distances within six hundred feet to one hundred feet to the rear when directly in front of lawful lower beams of headlamps, and located so as to indicate maximum width; and (c) A red lamp on each side, visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet to the side, and located so as to indicate maximum overhang.
  9. Hi All. Looking for advice on this specific ez-loader trailer type for a CS-17. I'm shopping used and hoping to be all in for under $500 and need galvanized for the salt water. First, I don't know what impact those swiveling bunks would have on a non-aluminium boat. Second, I'm trying to limit overhang to less than 4 feet. Third, while I could add keel rollers forward of the joint, it seems like a pretty big hole in the middle (between the rear and the triangle joint where I could add one). Seems like I'd want to have one there in the middle of outer space? Of the lighter-duty trailers I've seen recommended on the forums (capacity 600-1000 lbs), this is pretty common to find this model in my neck of the woods. This one is going for $350. Appreciate the feedback. Thanks.
  10. First coat of color on. I'm up to three. Will probably do one more. I should have applied another coat or two of primer to better cover the old stripe. I thought the color would blot it out better. Lessons learned...
  11. Thanks Alan. I tried pinging Ken awhile ago with no luck. SOOOOO glad this is here.
  12. Hi @PAR--what are your thoughts on the extension not being galvanized though the rest of the trailer is? Just paint it and maintain it well? (It wouldn't be a big deal to do so I suppose?)
  13. Hey Chick--what are you using for an extender? I hunted but with no luck. Perhaps I just don't know the search terms. The trailer I have is a little over 19 feet length over all. Below is a pic of Alan's boat at B&B. In Washington State we can't have that much overhang. If I stay to 3 feet of overhang to the transom (I usually take the rudder off for transport), then I need 14 feet to the winch stand and I 'd like to have 18-24 inches beyond that so about 16 feet overall seems like a good minimum for me. Seems like most of the PWC trailers are 12 or so?
  14. Boatbux! Is that like bitcoin only more valuable? 😉 I have to contend with saltwater so galvanized or aluminum for me.
  15. @Walt S. - yes, there are several here in the Pacific NW too. Galvanized is prized like gold though. Easy enough to find new ones for about $1000. For example here: http://www.kingtrailers.com/trailers_c158082.html are manufactured about 25 minutes from here. And CL has new ones every day (https://seattle.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=boat trailer&sort=rel) but I'm holding out for a deal. With my existing (it's one of these (http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612544_200612544) with a longer tongue, and bunks and rollers added), even if I just clean it up and paint it to get through another year, I still need to replace all the rollers (4 of them) and the deck that the rollers are on (it's plywood). So I'll probably be about $200-$300 into it plus the time of scrubbing the rust off, etc. Many of the trailers I see will need some form of modification (a couple of rollers added or bunks). I'm hoping to limit my total investment to $500 mostly because I still have to buy new masts and, well, "Bet On Another Thousand" = B.O.A.T. becomes more and more true all the time! :-)