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greendane

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About greendane

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    Stanwood, WA (Puget Sound)

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  1. First, is this a big enough deal to fix it? Or should I just finish my keel project, put another couple of coats of paint down and call it good? I'm not a good enough sailor to tell the difference if this ripple slows the boat. But perhaps one day I would be? Or maybe it's slowing things more than I know? I've only sailed this boat and only had it since May. Not concerned about it cosmetically.
  2. Thanks David for the link to your build blog. Great insight there. Last week I cleaned the hull to prep for glass and then the keel. Noticed a few things here and there that I may want to address but I am thinking on it. I could easily skip it this season, but eventually I may want to fix it. It does not appear that the original builder did much in the way of fairing compound. A couple of the seams are just plain bad. But I'd need to remove paint only (and not epoxy or glass) in order to get some on there and fill in the low spots (or more accurately, build up around the high spots to smooth over). Any thoughts on just doing this over the paint if I sand down to where it's more primer than color and not quite wood/epoxy/glass?
  3. Oh--and which thickener should I use? I know I'm possibly opening a can of worms here, but I just want something that will work and a link to a product would be great. I've seen this, but don't know where to start other than "not wood flour". http://www.westsystem.com/ss/filler-selection-guide/
  4. @PAR I just bent the pre-ripped 2X2 down on the hull to see how well it will bend. I will rip it soon and anticipate some of the effects I'm about to describe to diminish as the stock is reduced to 1" thick, but not entirely. There are some "high spots" along the line of the hull and consequently, when I bend it down, the keel stock bends up away from the hull. The brings up several concerns in my mind: 1) The epoxy goo is likely to get squished out too much where the pressure points are on these high spots. with not much material between the keel and the hull. Is this ok? 2) Should I build up more filler ahead of time in the gap? Or should I remove some wood from the back of the keel? Or will the screws mostly take care of all of this? 3) I was hoping to use minimal screws to temporarily clamp this down. What's the best approach for how many to put down? And what is the best way to fasten? Screw in and then back out a little so as not to squish the filler out too much? Pre-drill? If so, should the pre-drilled holes be larger than the screw shaft? I read a little here (http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?138013-Removing-screws-used-for-clamping-epoxy-glue-ups) about using screws temporarily, but my situation is a little different. Thanks in advance.
  5. @PaulSmith - When you say "on a bed of filled epoxy"--can you elaborate? Include wood flour to thicken it? And if so, how thick of a layer? I also assume I'll want to put a fillet the length of the keel on both sides. Should I put the fillet on at the same time as fastening the keel? Or will some of it ooze out and need to be filleted later?
  6. No worries Thrillsbe.
  7. Ok. Removed the keel and tried flattening out the bed. I sanded through yomwood in a couple small spots. Ok to epoxy 2-3 layers, then glass tape the length of the keel and a few more coats of epoxy before putting the keel on? I'm going with Doug fir because that is what the local yard had. I found a nice clear 14' piece of 2x2 that I'll rip. The existing one was only an inch deep. And with the skeg it was only one more inch (and slightly narrower). Any thoughts on the making the keel larger or smaller? I don't have the plans since I didn't build it. But while I'm doing this, I might as well ask.
  8. Got the keel off. A couple questions. 1) There are screws every 2 feet or so. None corroded. Stainless looks like to me and some brass I think (copper colored where cut with the reciprocating saw). Not likely to get them out unless I dig. It seems like that would make a mess. Am I ok to epoxy over it and call it good? 2) I was going to put a layer of glass down under it but am wondering if it is necessary. I'm doing a decent job of keeping from hitting the existing glass. And the layer of epoxy that is there is pretty thick. If I can get that level, can I just put a new keel on the way? And how flat does it need to be? There are some pockets in the surface but it seems like they should fill in with the first epoxy coat? 3) looks like all the damage stayed away from the hull. Glad about that.
  9. Beautiful work PAR!
  10. This is what was under the "roller guards" on the skeg. I carved some back to see the extent of the bleed from the metal an screws. This is part of what made me decide to just cut it off. Which I hope to do this weekend.
  11. I might do something pretty on the bow section, but yeah, the flat SS bar might do the trick on the keel and skeg. And onlinemetals local pick up is a great idea too. Thanks!
  12. Thanks Paul. Any thoughts on using 2 pieces for the keel scarfed together? (Just thinking that I could get an 8' piece and rip it for the 3 lengths I need vs getting a 12 footer. And might be easier to find a piece with good grain all the way if shorter?
  13. I started in on it yesterday and learned a few things. 1) The keel looks like it could have been a really clean 2X4 ripped to about 1" thickness. It even looks like it was doug fir. If it wasn't a 2X4, it's certainly along those dimensions. 2) It looks like it was primed and painted only. Little evidence (yet) that it was coated with epoxy. Just primer and paint. I've only got about 1/3 of the top cleaned off. I'll keep peeling back the paint to the hull and see how it looks. There could have been one light coat on it. 3) The skeg keel looks more like 1X2 stock that was shaped (again--speaking to the dimensions here). It was epoxied onto the keel and then fiberglassed. It had two "runners" but they were notched out and inserted to align with the trailer rollers. Given that these are often viewed as sacrificial, I guess I can see the reasoning of using just steel but the rust really did a number on the wood under it. The downside of course is that the keel is only needing to be sacrificed because of the damage done by these two metal strips. I'll put a runner the length of it when I replace it and use something rust-proof. This might be a good place to use bronze or the like because it is hard enough to support the weight on the trailer. After looking at it for a couple of days, I think I'll cut the whole thing off and start fresh. The front 1/3 is pretty hammered, and the back 1/3 as well. So here's the question--why not put several layers of epoxy on it to help toughen it up? No glass, just epoxy. Is it because it will hold the water in if any does get in there--which is certainly possible given the # of penetrations from the runner (even if sealed well)? Thanks.
  14. Oh, and yes--any recommendation for sourcing the Xynole? I don't see it at Duckworks (only Dynel)
  15. Xynole! Wow. Sounds good and perfectly suited to what I'm trying to do for the bow section. As it's currently belly up, I can't right now crawl under to confirm, but I have this old pic of the inside of the bow section. Should I assume there is solid wood in there to screw a metal strip on the outside? It looks like visibility disappears under the base of the mast partner. Would it be ok to epoxy a wood strip to screw into? Last night I started carving back layers of wood in the skeg keel where the steel "roller guards" were screwed on. The busted screws came out all too easily and were rusty. Clearly not sealed well and wrong hardware. The aluminum strip on the front keel has stainless and they seem to be coming out clean. But that doesn't mean water didn't get in there. Probably looking at replacing the keel over the length then. On the new one, will Xynole fabric be a good option here as well, or should I stick with glass? It was clear on the current situation that the 90* edges rubbed through and the glass peeled off too easily. As an aside, (and because it is in the new photo) my boat came with hollow wooden square masts and thus the block-like partners. The masts were both badly damaged and I was able to repair one enough to take it out over the summer. I intend to retrofit for aluminum soon. But one thing at a time...I picked up the boat with Honda 2HP motor and trailer for $1500. So I'm not going to complain too much.