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Stareed last won the day on November 6 2017

Stareed had the most liked content!

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About Stareed

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/29/1978

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    St. Augustine Beach FL

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  1. A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    here is the link for the cornering tools if interested. http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=32682&cat=1,42524
  2. Spindrift 10 build

    Here is the child improved oil finish to the ply I was talking about, lubed it up pretty good! I decieded to just make my rudder out of laminated fir as I had some good looking stuff from a trim job I had done a while ago. I much prefer to plane/work solid wood where possible. it came out good I think, I followed the bevel lines very close, very satisfying running a plane. got the seat top finial cut and the boom laminated ready for shaping. I ordered Interlux Brightsides in Sapphire Blue for the hull and Matterhorn White for the interior, Interlux Pre-Coat as primer. The water line will be Matterhorn white. See how it goes....still much to do! I wish I had cut a better radius on the optional aft bulkhead, I regret it every time I look at it from this direction. Looks like Stewie's head from Family Guy
  3. Spindrift 10 build

    So....I got home last night and early this morning I was going to mark out the ply left over from the seat tops cut out to make the rudder, and apparently my 4 year old slung some 3and1 oil on that piece while I was away. At least I think it was 3-1 as the little can was right next to the plywood and it sure smells like the stuff. Trash now right? I dont think it would epoxy well now, it isnt completely covered but its sure got some on it.
  4. Midnight wondering from the Ch. Mate

    Already have been talking to Alan about the Jessy 15! haha
  5. Midnight wondering from the Ch. Mate

    Thank you all! really appreciate the time and effort to satisfy my wondering. Now what to build next..................I'm not even done with my Spindrift, but the end of it is in sight and I am already looking ahead! I think something with a engine at least, I need a skiff of some type for fishing and knocking about. I had a 25 Mako several years ago before the crash in the oil field removed all luxury items from my life, it was pretty spendy to own and run. Until oil is back to 80-90 a barrel, Ill be fishing the oysters bars and creeks - not the Stream
  6. Midnight wondering from the Ch. Mate

    Thrillsbe, I too have heard that about cypress, I assume it is due to the fact the Cypress contains cypressene which is an oil and contributes to the decay resistant properties. I have glued it down with hardwood flooring mastic ( 1000 sqft in my house ) and used Gorilla glue with it on outdoor projects and it glues just fine. I have researched it quite a bit and it is a 3 out of 5 for glue-ablity or referred to as having good gluing properties. It is less dense than SYP which I can attest to, when green it is very easy to work. Cypress is also prone to "ring shake" where the annular rings separate from the heart, however I have only seen this in beams which I build pergola's with. But with epoxy Im not sure, I think it would make great ribbon material as it is flexible but strong in my experience.
  7. Midnight wondering from the Ch. Mate

    Regarding the paint question; I should note that I live in Northeast Florida and spring is coming, bringing with it high temps and humidity.
  8. Midnight wondering from the Ch. Mate

    Thanks for your response, that Lapwing is a absolute beauty!
  9. I spend half my life on ships and have a considerable amount of time to think about "stuff", what better a place to get answers than here! 1. Epoxy listed on BOM's, is it total volume or gallons of resin sans hardener. example my Spindrift listed approx. 3 gallons needed is that 3 mixed gallons or 3 gallons of epoxy resin? 2. Is "sharpening" the chine on a Spindrift necessary as I have seen on the larger powerboat builds? 3. How do they do the teak or Mahogany transoms on big Sportfishers? is it full thickness planking or a veneer of 3/4 to 4/4 attached to the "real" transom, is the end grain inside the hull planking to hide it? but then you get the end grain of the ply/solid planking? 4. Stability and Weight Calculations - The USCG says a "person" weights 185 pounds, however we recently had to adjust the capacity of our lifeboats as I work in the oilfield and a large portion hahah of our personnel complement is in access of this number. We have one guy who is 6'8" and about 415 and not that fat, the dude could fold your clothes with you in them. Hell, I'm 265 of twisted steel and sex appeal myself! Do most designers in america use more realistic numbers for calculating capacity? 5. Wood, I always see Douglas Fir as being a wood of choice for many designs; B and B says SYP (good stuff not junk) as a good wood, which I agree with, but I often have plenty of Cypress around from carpentry projects, but the ol' interweb seems to have widely different opinions about this- Whats yours? 6. Paint, What is the best? not for the money, not for a budget - the best. I have painted literally acres and acres of steel over the years and find International Paints Intertane 990 two part epoxy hands down the best at least for commercial applications. We currently use Jotun which is junk. I could not believe it when I started learning stuff, that guys were buy paint in quarts! The last paint job I did on a ship involved 120 gallons of primer and 80 gallons of topcoat! and that was just about a quarter of the deck! I have no problem spending money on paint, all my hardwork and time is NOT going to be sullied by cheap paint, plus I know first hand its worth it in the long run, spend two weeks on a 40,000 psi UHP water blaster wearing armor in the gulf in the summer will really make you think about high quality paint- not to mention running the devils own invention, the needle gun!! Let'r rip and sound of with your opinions maybe lots of people can learn from some of these dumb questions. Hulsey
  10. Spindrift 10 build

    Walt, I have seen the video series, I think he only did it in the corners. In reality I may not do anything, I get some pretty grand ideas being away from it three weeks at a time! I really am to the point of just wanting to finish the damn thing in time for spring.......I mean summer. haha
  11. OC20/B in Biloxi MS USA

    When I asked you about the knots in the wood, I was thinking of exactly what your last post showed (keel), I to think that they probably dont effect the strength that much but planning it down might give you some trouble. Looks great, wish I had your time, and space to do the same thing. Good luck, I will be following with much interest. Your Marissa was beautiful and built in break neck speed.
  12. Spindrift 10 build

    Thanks Walt, I was looking at the drawings and after the aft centerboard/thwart beam it looked like there was a little over hang, I was thinking on 1/2-3/4" so that I could "true up" any of the lines to ensure a fair shape. That little of a overhang with a fillet underneath should not make it a catch point, I was even thinking of cutting a small strip of ply and gluing it to the underside of said lip so that I could round it over to have a clean little bullnose, instead of the fillet. I have a couple weeks to think about it anyway. Thanks for your response, I will check your thread. Hulsey
  13. Spindrift 10 build

    Well, I didnt get as much done as I had wanted in my three week release from prison....(ship) but here is a short summery Keel: went really well I think, I dont think I carried it as far forward as I could have but I am fairly sure it will be fine, I used a gouge and chisel to hollow it out a bit and glued her down with epoxy-milled fibers-cabosil mix. oh and I drove the gouge in to my index finger tip far enough to split my nail - do not do that! Centerboard trunk: after coating the inside with the three coats, glued it together, and routered all the edges and put a fillet on the underside of the side strongbacks. Also routered the underside of the crossbeams with the same round over bit. I ran a center line string, leveled the boat at the transom port and Starbd and used a square, and pocket level to ensure plumb, put a screw in the back cross beam and clamped the front to some scrap. Then filleted and taped Seat top: I used some "RAM board" from homedepot ( thanks PAR for the idea) to make the template, I tried doing it in two pieces and then tapping them together, didnt like the way it looked, so I cut the out side and used my rough inside marks and added three inches and cut it out rough. - I did that the morning of crew change, not wife approved to work on the boat the day you leave! A big reason I didnt get as far as I wanted- the cold, very cold (for Florida) this time home, I had a small space heater running all the time to get my epoxy to dry on a schedule which didnt need a calendar. After running that heater so much my wife suggested skin to boat contact would provide the best warmth! OH and I did a shit load of sanding and coating trying to get the magic three coats on everything. Getting closer Oh I wanted to ask you guys, what overhang on the seattop should I have 3/4"? I plan to run a fillet under the lip to or do you think that is un-needed? Thanks again for all the help Hulsey
  14. OC20/B in Biloxi MS USA

    Are you at all concerned about the knots in your pine? I know its really really hard to find clear Pine, whenever I do it is usually has some pretty wide growth rings which isnt good either.
  15. Spindrift 10 build

    All cleats and 3/4 material were SYP or Doug Fir I had laying around. The knees and breast hook are Sapele, the gunnels are popular and oak. Good luck with yours!