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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on June 22

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About Alan Stewart

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  • Birthday January 1

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    North Carolina, Raleigh
  1. I have some experience with sailing mizzen only in the standard position. I found it worked quite well even upwind provided you started on a reach. It is near impossible to get the boat through a tack but the 3 point turn method works if you have the sea room. Sheet the mizzen in just a bit at first then let it out to get the boat moving but not force it to round up. As boat speed increases and you gain way you can counter the weather helm with the rudder and work your way up to full speed. If you accidentally head up too far, the sail force will take over and you'll have to sheet out quick to bear away without giving up speed then work your way back up. It's possible to sail almost as close to the wind as usual and actually quite fast with the main mast down due to the reduced drag from having only one mast. We sailed the last few miles of the EC 2014 with mizzen only and no main after we pulled the main mast down by snagging the spinnaker halyard on a channel marker at speed. We also sailed Southern Skimmer back to CP1 in this years EC 2017 after breaking the main mast above the tabernacle due to damage from corrosion around a reinforcing sleeve. I've got an album ( I made a few years back of reefing setups for my CS 17 with has only sleeved sails and single reef positions. In one of the photos I was running in sheltered flat water in about 20-25knots (my best guess) and up on plane with reefed mizzen only.That was a fun ride.
  2. Another picture Graham sent yesterday. I believe from the anchorage on Tuesday.
  3. Graham sent this picture yesterday. You can follow his spot track with this link.
  4. I don't think you really will gain anything using it for the rudder up/down haul. You could use it for the second line on the CB purchase but not really necessary.
  5. Amos, 12 strand lines like that are made from polypropylene and are VERY strong. They do have some disadvantages. They are slippery so they are no good to use in a cam or Jam cleat. Also if they catch something with a burr or snag on a ring ding you'll pull a strand right out of them and sometimes you can smooth it back in but over time they start to get a bit fuzzy. Still strong though. They also have excellent wear resistance so they can roll over a block with a high turning angle and far outlast a dacron line which will eventually break from internal friction of the strands. It would work excellent for the centerboard uphaul line and I have used 12 strand for that before. The very first part of the purchase that does not need to be cleated would be idea from 12 strand. You can tie bowlines in the ends and they will hold for all of our applications but they will slip once you start to approach the maximum load capabilities of this line. For the CB uphaul it might see 200lbs which is not even close to what the line could handle. The bigger advantage to my mind using 12 strand there is that it will last longer rolling over the cheek block inside the trunk. One tricky part is figuring out how to get it to stay in the centerboard. What I have done in the past is put a bunch of overhand knots in the end and then a large fender washer with a tiny hole. with the fender washer inside the centerboard hole with stopper knots behind it you should be good to go but I've always backed it up by just pouring the lot full up with epoxy. You'll get years of service from it. 12 strand is also sold with a braided cover over it which gives a line the low stretch and strength properties of the 12 strand but a braided cover that can be used in a cam cleat. any high performance line for racing are of this type where low stretch is a requirement. For our Core Sound boats the loads just below the threshold where stretch is something we need to consider for halyards and such. The CB pennant is likely the highest loaded line on the boat when the CB is retracted.
  6. Hey George, Looking very sweet. Well done!
  7. A perfect example of why documenting the internet is so important. The domain name lapsed so the rogue paddler website is no longer online and may have even been deleted other than what backups may or may not have been made by it's creator. All would be lost except you are in luck thanks to the work of the nonprofit group "Wayback Machine" (Wikipedia: Way Back Machine) who captures and saves website images for the public good and has been doing so since 1996. You can browse their backup image of the Rogue Paddler website by going here. Thank you Wayback Machine. They have a donate page here.
  8. Hey everyone, Just trying to get the word out that B&B will be at Mystic, CT in just over a month for the 2017 Wooden Boat show and we plan to bring up kits for the family boat building event. Right now we have a scant 3 boats signed up to build with us. If anyone knows of someone who might enjoy a great trip to Mystic and build a boat to boot! send em our way. Information on our website: Link to the Wooden boat show: -Alan
  9. Hey Will, Sorry for the confusion, we need to do some hardware and rigging videos badly for the CS boats. There are some good pictures of hardware setup of a CS15 in our google albums. The setup is still relevant with some minor differences for the CS 17. Link here. Some pics of snotter attachment like this one. 2. S hooks are used for the downhauls and for the snotter attachment. downhaul hooks hook onto the tack grommet of each sail and make for a 2:1 purchase on the downhaul. If the 20mm blocks aren't already on the hooks, they're meant to be. The snotter hooks hook onto the snotter eyestraps that are to be bolted to the fronts of the masts. 3. 1" is the length. The lower holes get a bolt and lock nut. the top holes can use screws because they will screw into the mast cap. 4. The keeper is meant for the halyard cleats for the main and mizzen so that the halyards don't recleat when you're trying to lower the sails.
  10. Looks good to me.
  11. A clarification.... my first response made it sound as if the forward bulkhead and nesting bulkhead are to be installed after the gunwales are glued on. Note however that these bulkheads MUST be in place while the gunnels are being installed. What I meant was that they are wired in and not filleted and taped until after the gunwales are on. I edited my first response to make that clear from the start.
  12. Mike, Boat is looking great! thanks for all the pics. The transom and quarter knees can be glued in next followed by the gunwales...then the nesting bulkheads and fwd bulkhead, chines and keel. The nesting and forward bulkheads must be in place while the gunwales are glued on but they are left in with wire ties only until after the gunwales are installed because the gunwales change the sheer of the boat quite a bit and give it it's final shape. If the bulkheads were already filleted and taped in you could end up with some weird looking kinks in the side of the hull where the gunwales and filleted bulkheads were fighting each other for hull shape. The transom could go on after the gunwales if you like, that would be ok too. The transom's job is just to pinch the sides of the hull in gently. One thing we see occasionally is a screw into the transom beam from the hull side which can put a nasty hook or fishtail in the side panel if the transom bevel is not perfect. So go easy with screws into the transom from the side. If you were really paranoid, you could temporarily clamp the gunwales strips in place and do a dryfit with the transom, quarter-knees, and gunwales to make sure all the angles match up and are happy when the gunwales put some rigidity into the side panels. Hope that all make sense. -Alan
  13. Graham sent me this picture yesterday of him approaching Cape Lookout from Core Sound. I'm sure he'll have another great report for us.
  14. pic of that in the Carlita album