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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on May 22

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About Alan Stewart

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  • Birthday January 1

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  1. Hey George, Looking very sweet. Well done!
  2. A perfect example of why documenting the internet is so important. The domain name lapsed so the rogue paddler website is no longer online and may have even been deleted other than what backups may or may not have been made by it's creator. All would be lost except you are in luck thanks to the work of the nonprofit group "Wayback Machine" https://archive.org/web/ (Wikipedia: Way Back Machine) who captures and saves website images for the public good and has been doing so since 1996. You can browse their backup image of the Rogue Paddler website by going here. https://web.archive.org/web/20161025055152/http://roguepaddler.com/coresound20.htm Thank you Wayback Machine. They have a donate page here. https://archive.org/donate/
  3. Hey everyone, Just trying to get the word out that B&B will be at Mystic, CT in just over a month for the 2017 Wooden Boat show and we plan to bring up kits for the family boat building event. Right now we have a scant 3 boats signed up to build with us. If anyone knows of someone who might enjoy a great trip to Mystic and build a boat to boot! send em our way. Information on our website: http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/mystic-family-boatbuilding/ Link to the Wooden boat show: https://thewoodenboatshow.com/family-boatbuilding/ -Alan
  4. Hey Will, Sorry for the confusion, we need to do some hardware and rigging videos badly for the CS boats. There are some good pictures of hardware setup of a CS15 in our google albums. The setup is still relevant with some minor differences for the CS 17. Link here. https://goo.gl/photos/ArRenwLh7wZF1Fxb8 Some pics of snotter attachment like this one. https://goo.gl/photos/wgAtub3ibvtPM9or8 2. S hooks are used for the downhauls and for the snotter attachment. downhaul hooks hook onto the tack grommet of each sail and make for a 2:1 purchase on the downhaul. If the 20mm blocks aren't already on the hooks, they're meant to be. http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/how-to-put-a-block-on-an-s-hook/ The snotter hooks hook onto the snotter eyestraps that are to be bolted to the fronts of the masts. 3. 1" is the length. The lower holes get a bolt and lock nut. the top holes can use screws because they will screw into the mast cap. 4. The keeper is meant for the halyard cleats for the main and mizzen so that the halyards don't recleat when you're trying to lower the sails.
  5. Looks good to me.
  6. A clarification.... my first response made it sound as if the forward bulkhead and nesting bulkhead are to be installed after the gunwales are glued on. Note however that these bulkheads MUST be in place while the gunnels are being installed. What I meant was that they are wired in and not filleted and taped until after the gunwales are on. I edited my first response to make that clear from the start.
  7. Mike, Boat is looking great! thanks for all the pics. The transom and quarter knees can be glued in next followed by the gunwales...then the nesting bulkheads and fwd bulkhead, chines and keel. The nesting and forward bulkheads must be in place while the gunwales are glued on but they are left in with wire ties only until after the gunwales are installed because the gunwales change the sheer of the boat quite a bit and give it it's final shape. If the bulkheads were already filleted and taped in you could end up with some weird looking kinks in the side of the hull where the gunwales and filleted bulkheads were fighting each other for hull shape. The transom could go on after the gunwales if you like, that would be ok too. The transom's job is just to pinch the sides of the hull in gently. One thing we see occasionally is a screw into the transom beam from the hull side which can put a nasty hook or fishtail in the side panel if the transom bevel is not perfect. So go easy with screws into the transom from the side. If you were really paranoid, you could temporarily clamp the gunwales strips in place and do a dryfit with the transom, quarter-knees, and gunwales to make sure all the angles match up and are happy when the gunwales put some rigidity into the side panels. Hope that all make sense. -Alan
  8. Graham sent me this picture yesterday of him approaching Cape Lookout from Core Sound. I'm sure he'll have another great report for us.
  9. pic of that in the Carlita album
  10. Any halyard you send up the mast, you'd need to tie a retrieval line to so you could pull it back down. If you tie the mizzen staysail (or mizzen topping lift/whatever) halyard to itself to form a "halyard loop" like on a flagpole and then attach the main halyard to that loop then you could raise the main using the mizzen halyard to position 2 and cleat it off. Then if you were just going to push it up the rest of the way, you could belay the main halyard until the mast was fully up and bolted. Then you just retrieve the main halyard with your mizzen halyard loop. You could also use the main snotter with a length of line tied to it as an extension made fast to anchor roller or bowsprit to bring the main mast to vertical. In fact, you might be able to eliminate the halyards altogether. Just raise the main mast as high as you can from the cockpit and then pull it up the rest of the way with the main snotter and extension line. If you could tie that extension line to say the roof rack of your car then all the better as it would improve the initial staying angle. The snotter has a good purchase too so probably be really easy. You'd just have to work out how much of it you needed so you didn't get two-blocked before the mast was up all the way. Another thing Pete might have fun designing is a ratchet pawl that engages once the mast is vertical down in the anchor well that would hold the mast in place until you got the tabernacle bolt on. It would be suspenders on top of cleating off the snotter or halyard or whatever. Of course it could backfire badly! as it requires one to REMEMBER something. I can imagine the mast clicking into place just as someone comes up to talk to you and you finish rigging the boat without putting the nut on the bolt! Now if you just made the ratchet pawl thingy as strong as the tabernacle bolt then we could do away with the bolt altogether! Hmmmm
  11. Another consideration, It might be better using the halyard for the mizzen staysail (provided you have one) because the block for that is on a swivel and on the front side of the mizzen mast. Using the halyard blocks might cause a lot of friction as the they are only designed to lead the line straight down.
  12. Pete, If you step the mizzen mast first and then tie the mizzen halyard to the top of the main mast, you can use the mizzen halyard to raise the main mast to about 50 degrees which should be plenty to open the foredeck hatch. Then you just need to push it the rest of the way up while belaying the mizzen halyard. Better still, tie the main halyard to your anchor roller and finish the job by pulling on the main halyard and belaying the mizzen halyard. To bring the mast down, raise the main halyard to the top of the mizzen mast and cleat both off, then undo the tabernacle bolt from the fwd hatch and lower the mast down while bringing in the main halyard until the main rests at the top of the mizzen mast. Then finish the job from the cockpit by lowering either the mizzen or main halyard.
  13. Pete, The boat looks great. Thanks for posting the pictures. The rudder fit in the cockpit well was just a happy accident. My Dad and I always trailered our CS-20 with the rudder off the boat but it is such a pain in the rear. Graham has taken to leaving his rudder on all the time on Carlita also because he has the boomkin which provides some extra protection and something to lash to. On my CS-17 I also not leave the rudder up full time and put an extra "safety" line around the rudder and up to the top of the lowered masts.
  14. Hey Steve, Boat is looking good. That missing dimension is 2 3/8" forward of the aft edge of the tabernacle side. On fitting the seat tops, be careful when adding a prop like that as you could force a little bump in the sheer. It would be better to trim the side of the aft seat top so it just drops into place especially since it doesn't matter since it's getting covered over by the cockpit coaming anyway. We never intended every piece to fit perfectly. Well I mean we did but the computer model is one thing and bending wood is another thing. We also could have deducted 1/8" all the way around the seat tops from the beginning for a looser fit which I think we did on the cockpit sole or else it would have been an interference fit. -Alan
  15. Mike, Glad the kit arrived safely. Also looking forward to pictures of her going together. -Alan