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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on June 27

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About Alan Stewart

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  • Birthday January 1

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    North Carolina, Raleigh
  1. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    The catches are shop made out of 1/2" Starboard with a dovetail bit on the CNC. They work well after some fiddling. They required some pockets to be cut into the nesting bulkheads and it was a bit fiddly but possibly could be done on the cnc for the kit. Tricky to have to glass inside the pockets and then put the starboard catches back in so some careful thickness measurements and double checking were needed. We did a test where we sat in the boat while it was on sawhorses at the two ends and the keel opened up about 1/8". For a larger dinghy I think a third catch at the keel would be needed but for this small boat it works great so far.
  2. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    It's really too small to sail. Final weight was right at 45lbs. 25 for the forward half. 19 and change for the aft half.
  3. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    Here is a video of the new "MICRO" Dinghy being assembled in the water for the first time!
  4. B&B Messabout 2017

    Attention all, It's approaching fast. I've created a sign up using google forms. CLICK HERE TO SIGN UP . We are compiling a list of boats that will be in attendance. Of course it's not required that you bring a boat but we're always asked what boats will be there. This list will generate automatically. You can see what boats have already registered here. As in years past, we will be having a Friday banquet buffet style dinner at little Italy's restaurant. We will pre-order the buffet so we need anyone who would like to join us to purchase their meal "tickets" in advance as we will order food for that many. There are links to puchase tickets (1 per person, kids 12 and under don't need) or CLICK HERE. In years past we have tried to do some sailing/boat building/cnc demos. Any good ideas, shoot them our way. Can't wait to see you all there!!! -Alan and the B&B Crew
  5. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Yet another thing to try (i've never tried it) connect the main sprit to the mast via the snotter first. Let the snotter all the way out. "step" the clew end of the sprit down into the cabin so it is pointing up to the sky. Then haul in on the snotter line to raise the mast until the snotter is pretty much all the way in. Then finish raising the mast by holding onto the sprit and pushing the mast up until vertical. Then maybe you can "re step" the clew end of the sprit somwhere that it will stay put while you go below to secure the tabernacle bolt. Based on the quick modeling below, the snotter will either need to be made extra long or perhaps an extension used.
  6. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    The dinghy is up to 32.5 lbs today. https://photos.app.goo.gl/lw3Sx6aUqGSlJ5dr1
  7. Ocracoke 256 #3

    Also, can't wait to see pictures with power and more so pictures of the boat running. I like the color. -Alan
  8. Spindrift 12 build log

    Another way is to paint the vertical surfaces of the interior with the boat upside down. Advantage being nothing can fall into your paint like sweat drips, hair, dust and things. I know Grahams daughter Beth prefers that method and she has a lot of experience with painting and varnishing.
  9. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    Graham's latest dink is a nesting 6' 6" tender that he will attempt to use with Carlita his Core Sound 17 Mark 3. It will just barely fit up on top of the cabin. Originally designed to go with the Outer Banks 20 as a tender for that boat allowing two people to row ashore and not have to beach the boat which can be tricky and often ends up with the boat high and dry or someone having to go for a swim. Two days ago Graham CNC cut the first sheet of parts out and 30 minutes later the boat was all zip tied together. I'll try to keep up with his construction with photos of the build. Here is the build album of the new "MICRO" which is essentially a slightly improved Catspaw "Mini" with slightly more freeboard and a bit more volume and will also be nesting. Graham will no doubt fill in some additional details here. https://photos.app.goo.gl/lw3Sx6aUqGSlJ5dr1 -Alan
  10. sail trim

    In this case it's set up with our reefing lines on the sprit which make reefing much easier when it's really blowing. Hanging onto the clew of the main sail in high winds even for a moment can destabilize a boat trying to heave to. This way you just lower the halyard, let out the snotter and pull in the reef line then hook up the new downhaul, hoist and pull in the snotter. This is how we suggest to reef all the Mark 3's. You can see the rigging sheet sample on the B&B website. Link: http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/15_CS20-mk3-Main-rigging.pdf I've been getting lots of requests for this setup on standard CS17's as well. Yes it does add complication so you just have to decide for yourself. It increases rigging time and more spaghetti so it's not for everyone unless you like spaghetti. I love spaghetti!
  11. With dams you're probably right that it wouldn't be too bad. I think 2lb foam would be strong enough if you put a 4mm plywood seat top on it to spread the load and glassed all the sides. You'll probably also want to recess some other bits of plywood here and there for attaching whatever fastening system you devise. 4lb foam is still going to be pretty soft certainly soft enough to put a fingernail into pretty easily and dent with firm pressure from a finger so I would put a thin ply top on it regardless which will give the top a lot of stiffness. More than you could get with the same weight if you just put glass on the top. I think you'll just have to give it a go.
  12. Hugh, Having worked with polyurethane expanding foam before I wouldn't use it for what you're describing because I can see it being a big messy pita with lots of shaping needed afterwards. Have you considered building the removable box out of regular old 2" blue insulation foam? You can cut and shape it easily and it can be glassed. It is maybe a bit softer than polyurethane foam but not much. You could laminate a 4mm ply top and bottom to keep it getting dinged up and then glass it. You would want 2 lb expanding foam otherwise it would be just as much weight as if you built it from 4mm plywood which might also be a good option. On a Spindrift 10 nesting the corner seat boxes as designed are about 1.6 cubic feet of volume and have a surface area of about 9 square feet. I think the boxes would end up about 6 lbs each if made from 4mm plywood (with some stiffeners on the top). -Alan
  13. sail trim

    What Graham said. Haul in on that reef line first then tighten up the snotter. Some pics of us reefed in the Core Sound 20. You shouldn't have big wrinkles like that. We also sometimes get a little bag at the tip of the snotter but it has never been an issue. If it bothers you you can carefully roll the reefed section of the clew a bit more neatly when you tie the reef points up but we don't usually worry about it especially when you're main concern is reducing sail.
  14. WoodenBoat Show at Mystic Seaport.

    Album of pictures from the event. All boats doing well. https://goo.gl/photos/mJuo3PVet3cUnsst8