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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on November 10 2017

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About Alan Stewart

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  • Birthday January 1

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    North Carolina, Raleigh
  1. Spindrift 10 build

    Good comments. If you're working on a scale for mixing just make sure you take into account the density difference since the mix ratio is 2:1 by volume. Last time I weighed them 1 gal or resin was 9.5 lbs and a 1 gal of hardener was only 8.2 lbs (with the jugs included) so by my calc that's approximately 2.3 to 1 by mass.
  2. Spindrift 10 build

    It all looks good to me. Keep it up!
  3. Spindrift 10 build

    The epoxy will be OK once it warms up again but I would check the resin very carefully for any signs of white solid crystization in the bottom. This happens when the epoxy resin gets cold for a few days/weeks. just pull the pump out, put the cap on (I like to squeeze the jug a bit to dent it so there is no chance of it pressurizing) and throw it in the microwave for a minute at the time till it's nice and hot and all these crystals have dissolved. Then you are good to. A very common problem is that the resin pumps stop working because they suck up some unnoticed crystalline solids from the bottom of the jug. It's possible to dissasemble and flush out the pump but is a messy pain of a job. You can get a cheap foam cooler and cut holes in the top for the tops of the jugs to stick up through and get a cheap Walmart heating pad to stick in there. I got one recently for about $13 for the dog bed at the shop but they work well for keeping epoxy nice and fluid.
  4. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    My mistake yes that is right I had the wrong link. This is the one I meant and I was surprised to see it at Walmart online! We couldn't beat that price. Geez. Also, Graham said today that he wished he'd sprung for the masthead white option for the convenience now. at the time i remember we were very "weight aloft" concious. It's a pain to set up a seprate white every time though. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Aqua-Signal-34606-Series-34-LED-12V-24V-Navigation-Light-Slim-Design-Tricolor-Mast-Mount-Black/49111966?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228036878617&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=101095592088&wl4=pla-142180095408&wl5=9010169&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=49111966&wl13=&veh=sem
  5. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    The Tricolor LED light that Graham and Peter both have is this one... https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|65136|2312550|2312561&id=2113738 B&B sells them for an earth shattering $145.00! WAIT that can't be right. Oh yeah we aren't greedy! The unit seems very well made and all the wire terminals into the LEDs are completely potted in soft black silicone type epoxy and they look very impervious to water. The modification we did was basically to remove the bottom two "disk" puck things which are just hollow plastic and replace them with a custom made starboard mast cap that plugs into the top of the mast and has a shoulder for the tricolor to mount on. This both eliminated some material and lowered the unit a couple of inches (every inch counts). Maybe Graham will post some pictures of his. LED tricolors for all!
  6. Spindrift 11n build in process

    As viewed from the top (plan view) the distance from the top center outside edge of the transom to the cut plane (between the nesting bulkheads) should be 66 7/8" or 1.698m.
  7. Spindrift 11n build in process

    Ah, you are correct. It looks like there is a typo on the materials list for the S11N metric as you pointed out. It should match the gunwale plan sheet of three strips each approximately 30mm tall x 6.5mm or 1/4" thick for laminating. At least that is what was intended.
  8. Spindrift 11n build in process

    The boat is looking great from here! Congrats on getting her folded up. Looks like you have good help too. On the gunwales I would rip them down to 30mm tall first if possible those extra 20mm in height are causing them to be much harder to bend edge wise. Two strips only for the gunwale may be OK BUT you may see some "spring back" at the nesting bulkhead when the boat is cut in half. How much I am not sure. I think that if you get them reduced to 30mm then you will be able to use all 3 strips. Remember that you do not have to do them all at once if it is too much to handle. You can glue two on together then add the thrid on top after the first two have cured. It is also much much easier to put a bevel on the strips before you glue them to the boat and do a dry fit first lining up the bevels so they mach up when you glue them on. The top edges can be all uneven and are easily planed smooth down to the edge of the plywood side panel afterward. You are correct that the gunwale strips must twist to match the sheer. They have to bend with the curve of the side panel as viewed from above but also bend edge-wise to rise with the sheer line as viewed from the side. if they were round in section then they would not mind this but because the section is a rectangle the result is that the strips want to twist away from the hull especially at the lower edge and we need clamping pressure to force then not to. On another note, It looks like your nesting bulkhead has a bit of a gap right at the keel. Does this gap close if you apply pressure underneath the boat? If not I would suggest adjusting the chine wires ties to allow the bottom to flatten out a bit and then re-wire the chine in this area. And finally, don't forget to fill the holes in the nesting bulkhead with solid epoxy bushings before installing then in the boat. It will be much easier to do flat on the table then when they are installed. Keep up the good work! -Alan
  9. Rigging the Mizzen Sprit

    I think a pretty good solution to this was discovered by David Jost? Here is his blog http://jostboats.blogspot.com/ He used a ring that takes up the mizzen slack during a tack when the sheet goes limp so that it can pass over the outboard. While sailing the sheet hardens up and the bungee is just along for the ride. Another tip is to make a custom stop block for your outboard so that instead of it being tilted all the way up to the built in lock position you can only tilt it up enough to let the lower unit and prop clear the water. This cuts down on the prop fouling the sheet since it's much lower down but still out of the water. -Alan
  10. Ocracoke 20 in OZ

    Lenm, I actually don't think your picture showing the low spots looks that bad all things considered. Those lows are all very "local" meaning that a medium sized sanding board is going to be able to take care of them. I think one thing that would be interesting is to glue up a test panel say 12" square of two pieces of planking plywood with some 1" square rails underneath. Apply your glue with the notched trowel and screw the two together into the rails with screws and washers just as you've done on the boat. Then once cured you can slice it in half on the table saw and investigate the panel. Are there lows where the screws are (I suspect there will be of course) and highs between (no doubt)? Without pressure between the screws there is no way the resulting surface could be perfectly fair which leads my to my comment that it doesn't look too bad. A test panel would also let you measure the thickness of the two between the screws (essentially measuring the gap that the epoxy had to fill) and also it would confirm that you are getting 100% bonding which I suspect you are or at least perfectly acceptable bonding. One thing you could do would be to simply use larger pads under the screws. say 3" diameter plywood disks under your fender washer would spread the load out much farther and I suspect cut down on the unfairness quite a bit. When it comes time to fair the hull (before sheathing) I would apply some kind of guide coat to the surface such as a light dusting with some contrasting color of rattle can primer (it doesn't take much) or spritzing the boat down with a spray bottle solution of denatured alcohol with some red food coloring in it. The alcohol evaps away leaving the light pigment on the surface. Then once you begin sanding all the small low spots will jump out at you and you can go in with a wide putty knife and apply microspheres to each area, then fair again and it should be ready for glass. You can repeat the coloring again if you wish depending on how far you want to take the surface. That's what i'd do anyway. -Alan
  11. Ocracoke 256 #3

    I think this is getting a bit blown out of proportion. I submit the photos below. There is nothing wrong with this boat or the way it's trimming. Yes she is floating a little higher in the bow from what we drew on the computer for having a single 300 hp motor but we knew that it would and that is to be expected. We calculated the 256's trim for various motor combinations including twin 150s and were satisfied then that the additional weight would not be out of the boats capability and I think the photo below is proof of that. Based on my profile views on the computer the lowest point of the cockpit (at the transom) is still about 2.5" out of the water. Obviously two boats can't trim the same with different motor combinations and there are limited ways to change gear around to impact trim. The bottom line is that from what we see, the boat can easily handle twin 150/175 zukis. There are plenty of boats that would love to trim this good with that much horsepower. Certainly there is no need for anything as drastic as adding to the hull in the stern for more bouancy and adding some ballast to the bow is the owners choice. If it was my boat I would probably put some weight up there to test weather I felt that it improved takeoff performance and as George said, were not talking about a lot of ballast. So, Is she waaay out of trim? no. does she look bad? in our opinion definitely NOT. Graham's opinion is that she looks great and he would use her as is after getting the height and props dialed in. Certainly that will yield the best average performance over the boats life.
  12. Ocracoke 256 #3

    Geprge, Awesome! Great to see some pictures of her in the water and blasting along. She is looking really really sharp. Graham and I were a bit concerned about how she would trim with those 175s on the back but not bad! Easiest way to bring back into trim would just be to put some ballast up forward, it probably wouldn't take much. Never ideal to add weight to a boat especially in the ends but it is a light boat to begin with so I suspect the boat won't notice too much. Keep up the updates with getting her dialed in and congratulations, looking very nice indeed. I've started compiling data on the 256 (so far only have some numbers from John and Katrina's boat. When you get her running good we keep filling in the blanks. Here is a link to the data we have on John's boat. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1afMiFxMmMkux7dc-uoHq0Ft1F9FYGIA8oyeSPkWqd0c/edit?usp=sharing
  13. Interview with Graham

    Thanks for posting!
  14. Aussie CS 20-3#5 "Dragonfly 2"

    Drew, The boat looks great and I am quite jealous as my wife an I started building ours but have not made much progress thus far due to me being very busy and also (mostly) that I took on a refit of my parents Core Sound 20 that we built in 2007 and she is stripped down awaiting re-painting. I would echo what the others have said with regards to sailing hard on the wind. to sneak up on being close hauled in light air and not to over sheet. I typically have the main sheeted to where the end of the sprit is in line with the gunwale or just inside it and the mizzen just a touch further inside the gunwale (sheeted slightly more than the main). Also make sure the the board is all the way down of course. We will be in close proximity to two finished 20 mark 3's weekend after next at our mess-about and Graham and I plan to get some good sailing time on them. -Alan
  15. CS15 with a lug yawl rig

    Here are some pictures from the event! https://photos.app.goo.gl/6uPOg91Sg3YFXrpg1
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