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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on August 13

Pete McCrary had the most liked content!

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About Pete McCrary

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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  • Location
    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..

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  1. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    It's so warm and humid (~> 99%) on some mornings and seldom going below 78%. So, I'm trying to get things finished up on Chessie in the mornings. Here are some of the recent additions: Running boards for the trailer. Easier access to the boat. Also, a nice place to sit or even stretch out for a little brake while preparing to launch, or making her road-ready after a long & hot sailing day. The starboard board needs to be shorter so the the tongue may fold as close to the hull as possible. That allows the pickup and Chessie to be in the 2-bay garage at the same time. The transport crutch seemed a little dull -- so I thought a little left-over boot paint would brighten it up a bit. I'm discovering that I need little reminders for important tasks. After dragging the CB when loading the trailer (and Graham's warning about "roller" damage to Bailers), I expander my sign at the crank to include reminders for the rudder and OBM. Planning my first overnight next week. I'll launch solo at Leesylvania State Park on Tuesday and anchor across the Potomac on Mattawoman Creek. There's a Maryland State Park (and docking) where I will pickup two sailor friends (who live in Maryland) on Wednesday am for a day of sailing. I'll drop them off in mid afternoon and return to Leesylvania and home before supper time. My Maryland sailing friends, Norm and John, are fellow members of The Shallow Water Sailors. An interesting groop. Check out their web page: http://www.shallowwatersailor.us/
  2. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Last weekend (August 5) Craig and Colleen Ligibel hosted a BBQ for members of the Chesapeak CatBoat Association at their home in Annapolis. "Chessie" made her "coming out" at the occasion. She received many compliments and invites to future events. A good time was had by all. Fellow members of the Chesapeake CatBoat Association honoring Chessie's "coming out." Chessie and her builder. Chessie's cabin interior showing her afghan & bunk pillow with the sails stowed (battens in place) on starboard birth. Builder Pete McCrary and best friend, occasional boat-building helper, and wife Annie feeling good at Chessie's "coming out." Our gracious hosts Craig and Colleen Ligibel. We next trailed Chessie down to Lusby, Maryland, for a weekend visit with son Jim and family. Jim has just accepted a position teaching physics at the College of Southern Maryland. Now, hopefully, we will get some fair sailing weather. I'll be taking pictures as opportunities arise.
  3. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    "Chessie's" official Maiden Voyage was on Tuesday, August 1. Helping-neighbors, Branda and Janet, were honored guests. The weather was clear, near calm, and warm (~ 90). The sails were up to catch occasional light puffs of wind -- which moved us quite well. The motor and ballast tank were well tested and performed satisfactorily. We enjoyed our time on the water having lunch. The ladies broke out a hidden half-bottle of champagne and made toasts to "Chessie" and her builder. As the "designated" skipper I was only allowed a sip of what was left in the bottle. Setup time improved from 1 hr 30 min to 1 hr 15 min. But that included 3 mistakes that had to be undone and redone. That would take about 20 min off. And when I improve the sequencing, I'm pretty sure I can get it down to about 3/4 hr. After inspection on shore, I can report that there were no leaks. Here are a few photos: Here she's "road-ready" with sails (battens in place) inside the cabin. The main & mizzenmasts were removed from the transport crutch and lowered onto the throw cushions. With the transport crutch removed -- I'm preparing to step the mizzenmast. Now the mizzenmast is stepped and can be used to rotate the mainmast high enough to open the forward hatch. Rotating the mainmast high enough to open forward hatch (using the mizzenmast and open hook) -- then moving to the forward hatch to rotated mast to full-up (with much better leverage). Here I'm preparing to use the main topping lift to secure the mast after it is rotated full-up. Next I'll rotate the mast from shoulder height. Here I'm below to attach the nut to the mast's bolt poking thru Blk 1. Notice that the topping lift (reeved thru the anchor roller) is taut. Lowering the rudder. Brenda at the helm while I'm raising the mainsail. There is much to learn in order to be really proficient in getting it all together for lots of fun sailing. Next time I'll hope for a little more wind. It's been a long 27 months. I was like a kid who's "eyes are bigger than his stomach": because I was retired, I thought I could do it all in just 6 months. The effort has been rewarding -- and I'll probably build a 10th boat this winter (tender for "Chessie").
  4. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    I, too, had the same concern. I was considering a folding A-frame -- another gadget and complication. I thought of the folding stool and throw cushions in the middle of the night !! Actually, I had a very hard time raising the mainmast, and it worried me quit a lot. I feel great relief that this proved out to be a pretty good solution with a minimum of gadgetry. Thanks for your comment. Tomorrow is "Chessie's" official Maiden Voyage. Three neighbor-helpers will be on board. We'll try to get some good pictures.
  5. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    The fall-away open hook works just fine for raising and lowering the mainmast. However, for lowering the mast I also need a folding stool and two throw cushions. The stool I always have in the pickup, and the cushions are always in the boat. The physical effort and stress is greatly reduced and I feel fully in control at all times. Here's an outline of the procedure: a. Remove mizzenmast from its transport crutch. b. Lower mainmast (from its transport crutch) onto a pair of throw cushions set on top of garage and remove transport crutch from mizzen step and stow it. c. Step the mizzenmast. d. Snap on the business end of the mizzen topping lift to the open hook and belay the bitter end. e. Using the mizzen topping lift & the open hook -- raise the mainmast high enough (~ 8' to 10' along side the mizzen) so that the forward hatch may be fully opened -- then belay the topping lift line. f. Open the forward hatch and standing [in the hatch], belay the business end of the main topping lift to an anchor cleat -- then reeve the bitter end thru the anchor roller (towards the stern) and loosely loop it around a cleat easily reached from that position. g. Now (with the mainmast almost at shoulder level), rotate the mast all-the-way up and hold it there with one hand and (with the other hand) pull tight the topping lift line and belay it. The open hook will have dropped off the mainmast as it was rotated full up. h,. Duck below and secure the mast bolt with its locking nut. i. Recover and stow the open hook and throw cushions. FINI. The reverse is slightly different. In abbreviated form: a. A folding stool and two throw cushions are placed on top (i.e., the underside) of the forward hatch cover (which is laying upside-down on the garage). b. The mainmast is secured with the topping lift while [below] the locking nut is removed from its bolt. c. Holding the mast upright with one hand -- release the topping lift and then (with both hands) rotate the mast down onto the throw cushions and folding stool. d. Exit the cabin and (by using the mizzen tipping lift and the open hook) raise the mast alongside the mizzenmast high enough so that the folding stool and throw cushions may be removed and the forward hatch closed. e. Replace the throw cushions on the garage -- and then, using the mizzen topping lift and open hook, rotate the mainmast down onto the cushions, etc.,etc,... FINI Here are a few photos: Hook still holding up mast. I'm in good starting position for raising mast (standing and using both arms -- much easier than starting at waist level. Notice that the hook is falling away. Nearly there! FINI. Above the mast has been rotated down to the stool and cushions. I've also exited the cabin and engaged the open hook on the mainmast so that it may be raised enough to close the forward hatch. The process has many steps, but [for me] none are beyond my diminishing strength limits -- and I don't feel any instability. Help is not wanted as it's distracting during a process with many steps. The only "help" I would want is someone watching and willing to call 911 if I get myself into a dangerous situation -- like falling off the boat or forgetting to secure the mast before placing the locking nut on the mast bolt. If crew is available to help, I would want them to have a "check-list" and warn me if I'm about to take a miss-step. At this point I feel much better and safer about the whole "mast-raising" situation.
  6. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Pretty neat. In the first attangement was the mast stayed? The second ...?
  7. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    I tried Alan's idea of using the sprit and the snotter tackle on the mainmast with Henry watching and ready to call 911. Several observations: a. The main sprit is too long, the mizzen, just about right. b. A dedicated pole is probably better because there needs to be a cleat to belay the snot ter line to free up hands for repositioning. Also, the sprit reefing hardware gets in the way. c. The forces are quite reasonable. d. Lowering is much harder to control. e. The snotter and topping loft lines need to be longer. All things considered, I'm sticking with my open-hook (for raising) and folding A-frame (for lowering).
  8. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    That's a great idea! I'll try it in the driveway (tomorrow or Monday) before fabricating the fall-away open hook. And you don't need to "re-step" the clue [end of the sprit] -- just keep pressure on the sprit with one hand, and with the other, pull taught and belay the topping lift [line] to a cleat on the side of companionway's slide. Of course, you would have already reeved the main's topping lift thru the anchor roller. The initial thrust on the sprit can be reduced by manually lifting the mainmast to shoulder level. For fun, I might calculate the thrust needed at that point. I suppose it will work in reverse as well. We'll see tomorrow. I'd do it today, but for the weather. Another advantage [of this procedure] is that the forward hatch may not have to be used at all -- and the mizzen wouldn't be needed to raise the mainmast part way [to open the forward hatch].
  9. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    The perpendicular lifting force 44" aft of the tabernacle required to start the mast rotation is ~ 53 lbs.. For the height shown in the sketch the tension (for the lifting pulleys) looks to be about x4 of that, or 212 lbs, maybe more. That's a lot of pressure on the tabernacle in the wrong place and direction. A "gin poll" or "A-frame" could gain you a better angle for the lifting line with less horizontal pressure on the tabernacle. For my 17' Whitholz catboat I had to step a 26' mast that weighed 65 lbs thru a hole in the deck. I managed it with a 3-piece, wooden crane that used the trailer crank for power. It worked ok, but stepping the mast was still a "bear."
  10. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Thanks all -- for the suggestions. All worthy of use or consideration. Calculating the advantage of lead weights in the mast below its pivot indicate: 1) With a specific gravity of 11x that of water, the maximum weight that could be in that volume (4.1 pints) is 45 lbs of lead. With a leaver arm of 10" the weight advantage at 44" above the pivot is only ~10 lbs -- reducing the lift required down to 39 lbs.. That helps, but maybe not enough and at a cost of 45 lbs at deck level and far forward. The mast sans-lines, weighed in at 22 lbs.. For me that's easily lifted by one hand at the C.g. And even the lifting force needed while standing in the forward hatch is not too much if I can lift it from shoulder height wuing both arms. The problem is that the [present] starting position (of the mast) is closer to waist level -- using my left arm -- with little help from the right. Last night I dreamed of a solution. Presently I must use the mizzen's topping lift (looped around the mainmast) to raise it high enough to open the forward hatch -- then, after opening the hatch, lowering [the mast] so that it lies on a cushion placed over the garage. Then remove the topping lift loop, go thru the cabin to the forward hatch, and finally raising the mast. The mast is held upright with its own topping lift reeved thru the anchor roller and belayed to an anchor cleat. Finally, duck below securing the mast bolt with its locking nut. Works pretty good EXCEPT the lifting force strains my strength limit. The new proposed procedure is only slightly changed. Instead of looping the mizzen's topping lift around the mast -- I'll use a "Fall-Away Open Hook. By doing that I can leave the mast at about a 26 degree angle where I can get a much better angle at shoulder height using both arms -- with a further advantage that the required force is reduced ~ 12% (~ 6 lbs). The hook will just fall away as I raise the mast. The last few inches when lowering the mast has also been a problem. Lots of force at the very end and the need to reposition my hands as the mast is lowered below shoulder level. My fix for that is a folding "A" frame set on the garage. Lowering the mast to that position (while standing in the forward hatch), then coming out of the cabin to set the hook holding the mast at ~ 19 degrees. Then remove the "A" frame and lower the mast with the mizzen topping lift. With the fall-away open hook and A-frame, I feel pretty sure that raising and lowering the mainmast will no longer be a stressful undertaking. Below is a sketch on what I have in mind. Please offer critical comments regarding the design and proposed procedure. I will line the inside-bottom of the hook with electrical tape to add friction. The topping lift line (just a single loop) doesn't slip. The hook with black tape shouldn't either. Thanks, Paul, for the starting tips for the OBM. And next time I'll remember to take along my GPS. I, also, have a rolling cylinder (~2" diameter) welded on to the bottom of the aft cross-bar. I've needed one on every trailer that I've owned. This one has a grease nipple. Ken, thanks for all the tips. I'll make a list and add to it as I recognize problems. With my CLC PocketShip "Tattoo" I originally had long prep and takedown times. After some experience, I reduced the time by more than half. With experience, I'm sure I can do that with "Chessie." BTY, I've learned that casual help (at the ramp) is distracting. I try to limit it to a minimum -- like holding the docking lines when launching and recovering.
  11. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    "Shakedown" report,... "Chessie" was taken out yesterday and launched on the ramps at the Leesylvania Start Park on the Potomac River in Woodbridge, Virginia. The new Tohatsu 3.5 long-shaft OBM (replacement for the Suzuki 2.5 short-shaft) was mounted on the bracket (designed for the Suzuki) with a shaft thrust angle 5 degrees up from horizontal. The longer shaft requires that the motor be tilted up for transport. Fortunately, the motor is locked in the up position with a 1/2" locking pin that can't be accidentally released. The Suzuki locking arrangement is by a hard-to-reach (and in my view, flimsy) spring-loaded latch. The following photos show how close the rig comes to "hitting bottom" when exiting / entering our diriveway. The trailer's aft cross-bar has a steel roller welded just next to where the aft boat-roller is attached -- it engages the driveway for a distance of ~ 4 to 5 feet. At the ramp, the time required to have her "launch-ready" was 1.5 hrs. All work was done by me solo with Henry observing. The mizzen mast was stepped first and used to raise the mainmast high enough so that the forward hatch could be opened. From that hatch I raised the main to upright and would have secured it with its topping lift while ducking below to secure the foot-pin with its locking nut. However, with Henry present, he saved me the trouble by holding the topping lift taught. Note at this point:. Stepping the mizzen has not been a problem (except in windy conditions). However, raising the mast (single handed) is very difficult for this 83-yr old geezer. My torque calculations (for a 22 lb mast + ~ 1 lb of lines) indicate a lifting force (at 44" from mast-pivot point) of approximately 53 pounds. That has to be exerted with my left arm (I'm right-handed) with little help from my right arm. That's because the tabernacle is tilted about 2 degrees to port so that [when lowered] it falls to the port side of the mizzen. That means I have to stand in the open forward hatch on the starboard side of the mast facing to port. Note to builders (who haven't installed the tabernacle) -- better to wedge it to starboard for right-handers. It also makes it easier to enter the cabin (both masts lowered) when mounting the cockpit over the trailer's port fender. The lifting force required would be much less if I would be willing to clime onto the top of the cabin. I'm trying to avoid that. A fall from that position to the hard Tarmac could be permanently crippling (even fatal). Maybe a "gin-pole" with tackle to the trailer wench, or use a "push-pole" while standing in the companionway's hatch. OTHER IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS ARE INVITED AND WELCOME. Here's the trailer sans boat: Finally, in the water. Notice the "flat calm." You can see we had very little wind. Once in a while, there would be a bit of light wind, and she performed well and easily balanced with the mizzen. The ballast tank filled and emptied as expected. I must remember to raise the CB before reaching the ramp dock. In this case the tide was out and the CB dragged in the mud and took a bit of boat "wiggling" to get it up. This boat sits so low on its trailer that all three: CB, rudder, and motor must be raised before starting recovery. The Tohatsu 3.5 started up on the 2nd pull as expected. The extra 5" made a big difference. The surface of the wake was much smoother and it nevert "cavitated." HOWEVER, I did have a major problem when restarting on the water after sailing. For me it's always a dilemma: use the choke or not. How long a cool-down before the choke is needed?. In this case it was a fairly short time, so I set the throttle to its "restart" position (i.e., slightly higher than the ""start" position), set choke in no-choke position, and pulled. Nothing! Pull, pull, etc.. Tried a little bit of choke: got a cough, then nothing after several pulls. I thought a vapor lock or flooded carb. Temp on the water was ~ 91 degrees. I tried to remember the cure for vapor lock (wet cloth over the carb ??) or flooding (open throttle, no choke, for a while ...??). I opened the throttle full open, tilted the motor up, started to paddle towards the ramp (~ half mile away). Then sailed a little in several puffs -- and tried a restart. It sputtered and got going [eventually] nicely. BTW I had a Tohatsu 6 Pro (25" shaft) and it never gave me this kind of problem. Do any forum members know the best way to restart a warm-but-not-cold engine? Or how to avail a vapor lock or flooded carb? I can't tell you the speeds we got (wide open) because we forgot the GPS -- but it seemed like ~ 5 knots. After recovery, the time to get the rig "road-ready" was again ~ 1.5 hrs. We were both very hot, dehydrated, and exhausted. We left my driveway ~ 10am returned home by ~ 7pm (ramp is 23 miles away OW, light traffic). Maybe I can get some good pixs when I cruise with fellow catboaters (Chesapeake CatBoat Asso).
  12. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Amos,... Yes, they are "rudder traveling blocks." The starboard one was designed to avoid conflict with the Suziki 2.5 prop and the port one to prevent the pintles hardware from gouging the transom when the helm is hard to starboard. It also prevents conflict with the replacement Tohatsu 3.5, but may need modification after the OBM bracket is redesigned so that its shaft is vertical. Ken,... Thanks for the congratulations. We feel very fortunate. Best wishes for your upcoming Seventh and many more.
  13. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    The Tohatsu 3.5 was mounted yesterday. Should be long enough. The bracket (made for the Suzuki 2.5) needed a slight modification for immediate use. However, in order to reverse (180 degree), the tilt had to be moved out of its 1st notch. So the shaft isn't quite verticle. If this shows to be a problem, then a replacement bracket will be a winter project. Forward. Reverse. There is a "tilting lock-pin" rather than a spring-loaded latch. I like it much better. Easily seen and much more secure. I'll feel safe trailering with the OBM tilted in the UP position. The longer shaft would drag pulling into a gas station or driveway if there is even a slight dip at the entry. Here's a pix of the pin: Below is a pix of the modification to accommodate its position and motion. We're getting close to our 1st "shake-down" cruise -- so I've designed the "badges" for "Chessie's" name at the bow on the sheer strakes. Shown below is the pattern for the port-side badge: The starboard-side is on the reverse of the pattern. It will show the anchor, but a dolphin will replace the seahorse. The images and lettering will be computer routed on 9/32" mahogany planks that I've ordered from our local hardwood dealer. Oops! Didn't know these would be published. So, anyway, on July 11 Annie and I celebrated our 58th anniversary! I suppose after each of us buying a greeting card for each other 58 times we would eventually buy IDENTICAL cards to trade. The toe rails were dry-fitted today. Tomorrow they go on. We do the shake down cruise the next day that it's not too hot.
  14. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    Graham:. Do you have an estimated total weight yet? Would a thinner plywood thickness be a viable option.
  15. Aussie CS 20-3#5 "Dragonfly"

    To put it plainly, the main reason for selling "Tattoo" (my CLC PocketShip) was that the cabin was too small. Sitting headroom was OK, but knee space (under the cockpit decks) was very limited. And the CB housing made it all a little worse. Otherwise, I really loved the boat -- especially after I made the alternate yawl rig.