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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on November 20

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About Pete McCrary

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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    Male
  • Location
    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..

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  1. Tohatsu 3.5 hp longshaft . .

    This morning I measured the fuel remaining after the Tohatsu 3.5 "check-ride." The actual consumption was 2.9 liters. The corrected performance date are: Fuel rate: 0.6 liters/hr Mileage: 7.24 nm/liter The posting for December 5 has been appropriately edited.
  2. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Alan's link takes you to a slightly different light than the one Graham and I have. Ours is a tri-light: red, green, and white (white facing aft) and requires just 2 wires (+ & -- 12 VDC). The link model boasts also an "anchor" light (which would be 360 degrees and never be on when navigating) and it would require a separate +12v circuit. The specs state that it has 3 wires -- which would provide the separate anchor light circuit. A really nice improvement.!!! A bulkhead mounted 3-wire plug/socket pair may be hard to find. I haven't seen one, but a trailer 4-wire connector would do fine. The power line would exit Blk 1 thru a grommet to a loose trailer connector on a short pigtail -- then thru a grommet and up the mast. The new one would eliminate [my] need for a deployable anchor light which I plan to hoist on a halyard or topping lift.
  3. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Steve,... I bought the stand-alone volt meter before the other one was on the market. It's good for two batteries if I ever need that. And the other one may (???) also measure the voltage OUT of the USB outlets. This is not clear from the meger instructions. And it's separately fuzzed. Don't know Why! Graham installed Chrssie's tri-light. I don't know the source. BTW, Graham made a slight modification so that it would better fit the top of the mast. I don't know the details of his mod. I managed to measure the current draw for the switch lighting on my SeaDog distribution panel. Here are pixs of the lit switches: All switches on. One switch off. My multi-meter wouldn't close the circuit in its amp meter mode. Probably a blown fuze. Henry's 40 year old Radio Shack meter made the following measurements: 6 lights: 210 ma; 5: 180; 4: 140; 3: 110; 2: 70; 1: 30; 0: no load. All were made on the 250 ma scale. So, that's about 0.035 amps / light. Or, 0.21 amps with all six lit. Wouldn't that mean a 90 ampHr battery would power all six for ~ 428 hrs (18 days)? My guess is that these lamps are LEDs. Anyone know the typical current draw of a small 12 v. LED lamp? I have the feeling that these lamps may not be too bright for comfort at night. Typically only two will be on at night. If too bright, a small curtain should solve the problem. Good luck on finding one source for all electric needs. Prices and details are all-over-the-place.
  4. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    This morning I'm going to see if I can measure the amps drawn by the switch lights. Hopefully, I'll have the newer version. On one boat I had a panel that had a switch that would kill all the lights. Nice feature. And on another one if the master switch was on and no lights showing, there was a small current drain. Dead battery in the spring. BTW, the edit button in at the bottom of the post on the line with the "Quote" button.
  5. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Steve,... B & B installed the LED tricolor on the top of my mast. The electronics is such that it only needs two wires to light up all three colors. I suppose it has some circuitry and polarity arrangement within the light's framing. I've installed a "deck" socket on the starboard side (forward face) of Blk 1 into which is plugged the line that goes up the mast. If you use motor-power at night you also need a "masthead" white light. It should be about 2 meters above the deck facing forward. I'm going to use a "portable" light and flexable cord (like what powers a household vacuum cleaner) that will plug into another "deck" socket on the port side (forward face) of Blk 1. On the rare occasion that I need it, I'll deploy it onto the mast from a position standing in the forward hatch. I'll have a small bracket permanently installed on the forward side of the mast upon which I'll hang the light -- at the maximum height that I can reach. Here are the elements of my electric system yet to be installed: Not shown here is the LED tricolor, battery, battery-charging socket, and the solar panel itself. Here is the masthead light and flexable cord. Breaker and Distribution Panel. . Solar charger control -- notice the USB outlet Power outlets include two USB ports and 12v "cigar lighter" outlet. It is not rated for above deck use. Bunk reading light. The first photo also shows two overhead cabin lights and a two-socket 12v outlet rated for above deck. The two-socket outlet will be installed in the cockpit (probably) under the mizzen partner on the starboard side. The overhead lights will be installed over the forward locker and just forward of Blk 3 (port-side). The electric panel will be on the port forward side of Blk 3. It will be on a hinge so that it can be rotated down to a horizontal position for easy access to the wiring. Not shown is a "deck" socket on the aft side of Blk 3 inside the cockpit coaming that has its own in-line fuze going directly to the battery for on-shore charging. The fan is a "low-drain" two-speed -- and very quiet. I've used that model on two other boats and like it very much. I'll probably install it on the ceiling near Blk 2.
  6. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    For the aft locker I didn't want to fool with a gasket. Usually, rainwater (Chessie in driveway) doesn't pool inside the hatch UNLESS there is a wind-driven rain pushing the water past the edges of the hatch cover. Small amounts will drain over the rabbit edge that is cut into the aft bulkhead. However, with a driving heavy rain or any rain on the highway, the wind can force the rainwater past the rabbit's edge on the hatch opening.. To avoid that I've filed weep holes on each side of the hatch hinge and installed "gutters" on the inside of the hatch cover. Notice the blocking that backs up the hinge screws -- the blocking extends higher than the edge of the rabbit, which allows water to flow past the edge and into the hatch. The gutters should carry any water [that is] forced past the cover's edges down and outboard of the blocking and into the footwell thru the weep channels. Gutters (1/2" thick) glued to back of hatch cover. Weep channels filed into cover at each end of its hinge. Ready for reinstallation. Hopefully, it will work. In warm weather it will be rain-tested either on the water and/or highway -- or with a garden hose. Results will be reported.
  7. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Steve,... Paige had a sister (same litter) -- and the sister (Laurie Dehu) was quite a bit larger, black all over except bright white for boots & mittens, throat, chest, and between hind legs. A really beautiful cat. She was a hunter and wouldn't stay in the yard and after about two years, she got run over returning from a hunt. One time she brought home a rat that was almost her size. Paige was the runt of a 6 kitten litter, and has always been shy and skittish and never leaves our 1/3rd acre yard. And now she's almost 13 yrs old. She has "lost her white mittens," and is all black (even her whiskers), except for small white patches on her throat, chest, and between her hind legs. I say that she's modest -- and the white blazes are her necklace, bra, and panties. The biggest game she catches are small moles. Thanks for suggesting "Catnip."
  8. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    So far -- the choice of the family (just Annie & I) is strongly leaning towards Steve's suggestion: "Catnip." It's a short, one-word name that's apropos for the "tender" of the lead ship "Chessie." Lucy Paige The family kitties, Lucy and Paige, have access to the garage and find comfort there at night. Even in the coldest weather! They are company for me in the shop and are very curious. Chessie's winter "slip" is on her trailer and in my garage/shop where the kitties like to explore all over my boats, work benches, etc. Lucy is friendly to everyone. But Paige hasn't been seen by anyone except Annie and me. From inside [the house] or out, she can hear the door bell ring or a car door close -- and she immediately hides until the "coast-is-clear."
  9. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    So far -- I'm liking the "meester's" suggestion: Caboose But that's not final. Maybe "Echo" or "Moonbeam" ? More suggestions, please.
  10. Tohatsu 3.5 hp longshaft . .

    Checking my notes concerning the check-ride for the Tohatsu 3.5 (with new fuel pump) shows distance covered at 21 nm, 4.9 hrs running time, and using ~ 2.4 liters of fuel. (NOTE: the estimate of 2.4 liters is WRONG! The measured number is 2.9 liters). Typical speed ~ 4 to 5 knots, rpm ~ 3,000 to 4,000. Fuel rate ~ 0.4 liters/hr (error, should be .6 liters/hr). Mileage ~ 8.75 nm/liter (error, should be 7.24 nm/liter). But the running time included about 15 minutes of dockside idle -- so the traveling fuel rate and mileage were actually higher. EDITED ON DECEMBER 13. Note corrections shown above. Fuel rate: 0,6 liters/hr Mileage: 7.24 nm/liter
  11. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Checking my notes concerning the check-ride for the Tohatsu 3.5 (with new fuel pump) shows distance covered at 21 nm, 4.9 hrs running time, and using ~ 2.4 liters of fuel. Typical speed ~ 4 to 5 knots, rpm ~ 3,000 to 4,000. Fuel rate ~ 0.4 liters/hr. Mileage ~ 8.75 nm/liter. But the running time included about 15 minutes of dockside idle -- so the traveling fuel rate and mileage were actually higher. On a lighter and slightly frivolous note ... we've been considering various names for Chessie's tender. She will be the micro+ nesting tender, a pram designed by Graham. The "+" indicates that it's 6" longer than the original design. The partially completed kit will be my major winter project. Some names have already been sugessted: Minnie, Pluto, Skipper, Pam, etc.. Her mother ship, Chessie was named for our Chesapeake Bay and the C & O kitty: Maybe Chessie would like to have a little mouse nearby -- so, how 'bout Micky Mouse's girl friend, Minnie. Any and all uggestions for the tender's name will be welcome.
  12. Tohatsu 3.5 hp longshaft . .

    The selling dealer was Cabelas Sporting goods. Very busy with only one guy as mechanic, parts man, and shop foreman. And they had at least 3 salesmen pestering him to prep their sold-boats and ATVs for delivery. When I told them of my motor problems they should have known, considering the recall, the cause right off. It took them two weeks to figure it out, and then another two weeks of not even ordering the replacement pump. I took back the motor and another dealer (Backyard Boats in Woodbridge, VA) got it all done pronto. Right from the beginning, the motor was hard to start and really hard to restart. But once it got going, it seemed to run ok. But after three trips on the water (total running time about 3 hrs) -- it just wouldn't idle and was spitting oily or unburnt gas with the exhaust. Clearly, symptoms of fuel pump problems if you really knew the engine and its characteristics. I think the fuel pump diaphragm probably had a very small crack in it (at the start), and it rapidly got worse with use. Now it runs like the other outboards that I've had.
  13. Tohatsu 3.5 hp longshaft . .

    Tohatsu 3.5 proof of repair cruise. The motor started just fine and ran like a "top." And restarted without any problem. The fuel pump was replaced under warranty at no charge for labor. We cruised from Leesylvania State Park (Virginia) up The Patomac River to Gunston Cove -- about 12 nm (24 RT). Speed at about 4.5 to 5 knots at ~ 3500 rpm. Used 2.4 liters. An enjoyable day, temps 50 to 60 degrees. Calm in the am, about 8 knots in the afternoon. I now have confidence in this motor and hope to be cruising "Chessie" early next year. We saw several eagles. Brenda, my occasional helper and crew at the helm. Chessie, resting for lunch. Brenda taking a brake in the easy chair. The old man at the helm. Chessie is now in the garage waiting for her electrical systems.
  14. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    I've actually done what Alex suggested when finding the travel limits for the rudder-tiller assembly. However, without building a mockup, I've made a "stick-figure" of a six foot sailor [to scale 4:1] and positioned it on the 4:1 drawing as if reboarding. Here's the sketch: It's my opinion that reboarding for me (age 84) will be a challenge. Perhaps the toughest part would be placing one foot on the bottom step while holding onto the transom lip. I envision being in the water in a near veriticle position and holding onto the top of the transom with both hands. Then trying to place one foot on the bottom step. Could I raise myself up with my arms high enough so that I could flex my leg (again high enough) to place one foot on the bottom step? Maybe. Once a foot is in position on the step, the next problem will be to stand upright. At my age it is very difficult to stand upright (sometimes I just can't do it) from a squatting position using BOTH legs. However, if I can have a "hand grip," that little extra leverage will get me up. The buoyancy of the water will help some -- but what if "Chessie" is floating high? The real-life dynamics is really hard to predict. I'll just have to build the prototype and try it on-the-water. But as a precaution, I think I'll add a back-up folding third step (shown on the drawing in green) that will be about 4" lower than the present bottom step and probably make reboarding much less problematic. What do you think? Has any reader had actual experience with a ladder with this approximate configuration? Am I making too much of this "potential" problem?
  15. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Thanks, Alex, for the comments -- all of which, in one form or another, will be incorporated into the final version. However, as a lover of wood, I'll probably stick mostly to wood and fiberglass, limiting the metal parts to the hinge and SS rod. I will strengthen the rod-hinge assembly with more robust framing, including epoxy filled over-size holes later drilled for the SS rod. I'm also thinking of some scuba diving weights into the bottom half of the bottom step. Of course, all outside edges will be rounded off with [as large of] radii as possible to soften human bumps and mizzen sheet entanglements. Note that the inside surface of the transom is already reinforced with 3/4" yellow pine blocking from the chine to the side of the aft locker. Hete's a sketch of my concept for the "deployable" Gin-Pole. I think it's a feasible concept that would greatly air reboarding. At the top-right I've shown a plan view illustrating how I would tilt the pole a bit aft. However, I need to better understand the ergonomics before final details are settled. Maybe a person would get more useful purchase with the pole tilted forward? I have a hand-grip above my bathtub just above the tub's top edge. It's almost useless because at that level (it's too hard to push-up) -- however, if it was higher (i.e., at arms length), I'd have much better leverage to pull-up my entire weight. Skip, I think you are right to lower your ladder. You'll get an easier to mount bottom step and less entanglement of the mizzen sheet. But I have to thank you for the pix you posted last year. I couldn't have conceived this design without the ideas that it provides.
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