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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on March 2

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About Pete McCrary

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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  • Location
    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..

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  1. More on the "oil-level" indicator. I tried [again] to photo the oil-level indicator. But I couldn't get the photo to show clearly the actual oil level. So I sketched what I saw onto the relevant page in the owner's manual. The shaft was vertical. Here is my sketch: My opinion is that the oil-view window is useful only to alert [you] that oil is probably too low if it doesn't show AT ALL in the window. If oil shows, then you're ok.
  2. Thanks Chick,... I hadn't thought of that potential problem. But I think I'm OK. "Chessie's" trailer has a 2 x 6 cross member supporting a third roller. It's placed a few inches forward of the fwd-cabin knees. I've tried to position [the height of] the roller to carry a load of several hundred pounds -- attempting to ease the load on the central roller. I'll pay close attention on her first launch. My guess is that the anchor roller won't foul the winch stand. Thanks for the "heads up."
  3. Alex,... Probably, because of a combination of (a) the c.g. of the anchor being below the curvature of its shank and (b) the tilt of the rollers. The fluke down motion probably begins as the shank passes the first roller and the [roller] frame begins to tilt itself and the anchor shaft. But I'll watch its entry [several times] into the pair of tilting rollers -- and post my observations. With these rollers I won't need any chocks. The anchor rode will be belayed directly to a cleat at the stbd-side edge of the anchor well [deck] opening. If I'm tied up at a dock or slip -- the forward lines will be protected against chafing with SS half-ovals (instead of chocks) on the deck edges (P & S) running from the toe-rails forward to the anchor roller bracket. Got that idea from Graham's "Carlita." When I have the time I'll make my cleats from wood. I think they're very attractive and fun to make when the boat's put away for the winter. They might even be "easier" on the lines.
  4. When I poured in the 0.4 qts of oil, I was careful to have the motor's shaft vertical.
  5. Jay,... Your fwd hatch is just aft of the mainmast and over the fwd locker. Right? But mine (and others) is between Blk 2 and the first cabin knee. We can't hold the mast upright and also thread the nut on the bolt. Arms aren't long enough -- so we look for other solutions. Most opt for the bolt to be fastened to Blk 1 with the nut being threaded on the fwd side of the mast in the anchor locker. But that requires a pair of slots to be cut into the mast's heel. I like mine better, but it can be a nuisance raising the mast solo. Seems like there are endless compromises in small-boat design & construction.
  6. Just a note about oil level in the 2.5 hp Suzuki. For the first time, I loaded oil into a new (and dry) 2.5 Suzuki: exactly .4 quart of oil, the recommended amount. The oil-level-view-window showed the oil at the "min" level near the bottom of the window. The "max" level was shown as near the top. I can't [now] find my photo [of it], but when I do, I'll post it. Point being, if one fills the oil using the oil-level-view-window as a guide, the likely result may be that it's overfilled. That could lead to problems much in discussion.
  7. A Bow Roller! I purchased one on the internet having dimensions I thought appropriate for "Chessie." However, in reality, it was far too heavy and appeared large enough for a 40 foot boat. So I kept the rollers and discarded it's monster SS framework. My re-design concept was a simple as I could get it. Here's the proof-of-concept: Keeping the anchor away from stem while being raised. Anchor being "rolled over" ... Spade about 6" from stem. In the full-up position ... Stowed for sailing. For trailering, my plan is to stow the anchor in the anchor well to avoid any chance of it coming loose on the highway. The concept was finalized with side cheeks (1/2" marine ply). Here a few photos showing the rough assembly. The exposed edges will (of course) be rounded over and the cheeks epoxied to the centerline frame. And I will fit a filler-block between the cheeks and under the frame -- right up to the stem. The assembly will be removable and held in place with six 2" SS lag bolts (just 3 shown) well bedded. I think I'll epoxy the whole works and UV protect it with paint. BTW, I think I could make use the roller during solo mast-raising. A topping lift could be reeved thru the aft roller -- then raise the mast -- tighten the topping lift and belay it (thereby holding the mast upright) -- while I release the mast and go below to thread the nut on the mast bolt.
  8. Last weekend (Mar 11) we recovered "Chessie" from the canvas shop, attended the annual luncheon of the Chesapeake CatBoat Association, and visited our son's family in Lusby, Maryland. We went by the nearby Cove Point Light House. The grounds and light keeper's house is maintained by the [Calbert County?] maritime museum. At the end of a quarter-mile narrow road we found It was closed for the season [no turnaround]! Lucidly, the maintenance-man and gate-keeper was repairing the gate -- and he graciously let us in so that I could turn pickup & "Chessie" around. He consented to be photographed: He showed me where I could get a good photo of the lighthouse and the keepers cottage: The lightkeeper's cottage has three rental units. And there is another small stand-alone unit. During the open season the museum rents the units out to the public for several days or more. The point is very exposed to wind and waves. There're beaches and places to launch kyacks and such -- but it's no place to launch larger boats. However, there's a public launch ramp at nearby Solomons Island. On the way home early Sunday morning at a Bob Evans restaurant, Annie and I were planning a mini-vacation at the light house. She was very happy with the idea. Now "Chessie" is home for good (having been away from my shop almost 4 weeks -- two at the paint shop and [later] two at the canvas shop. So,.. now it's back to [fun] work. Maybe she'll be on the water in April. Hope so. Recent progress will be described in the next posting.
  9. Steve,... I didn't know your father, but your niece's summary of his life makes it seem like I have. I'm sure all in his family have "Norman Rockwell"- like memories of him.
  10. Finishing the sides "bright"? Very labor intensive! In 2001 I built a cedar-strip canoe, finished bright. Every little flaw shows up. Like hundreds of scares caused by the staples used to hold the cedar strips together during construction. There were articles on how to hold the strips together without using staples -- all much more trouble. I opted to use the staples anyway. She still looks great at "twenty feet." But it wouldn't do for a cabinetmaker or restorer of antiques, furniture or boats.
  11. Main mast raised and mizzen stepped for the first time at the canvas shop. No hitches. And they look very close to being pararllel. "Chessie" will be there for about a week while she's measured and fitted for cabin cushions and a [no] boom tent. I'll be able to do family tax returns, earn some $$, read a book, dream of cruising with "Chessie," lightly tackle the honey-do list, etc.
  12. I didn't like the looks of hatch--drop board intersection. A small mod brought them into the same plane. Now the hasp doesn't need to be bent.
  13. At Alan's suggestion I set up two faux masts and fixed the mizzen step's position so that both masts were in the longitudinal vertical plane and parallel to each other. The mainmast rake was fixed BR the CAD parts -- the mizzen's step was adjusted to match. Here's the setup: One side, Then the other. Mizzen & mainmast made plum with nose jack. OK, compared to neighbors' house sides When all's right -- the step is permanently located. Tomorrow,... Final prep for trailering her to the canvas shop on Monday.
  14. Alan sent me this CAD drawing of Graham's concept for a dodger. On Monday I'm trailing "Chessie" to the canvas shop and negotiate a deal for bunk cushions and possibly a dodger. Here's the mizzen partner being permanently epoxied in place. Tomorrow I'll locate the mizzen step. I've copied Graham's security system. My caps for the drop board channels also serve as the retainer for the sliding hatch. They have to be removed in order to remove the hatch. They'll be bedded (not glued) in place. The permanent fasteners will be bronze 3/16" carriage bolts so that they can't be removed without having access to the cabin. Small measure of security. She's now "rain-proof" and ready for the road trip to the canvas shop. I'm very close to rigging the mast and getting ready for the maiden voyage. Hope it won't be like the Titanic. On a sad note -- my neighbor, friend, and boatbuilding / sailing buddy had a heart attack last Thursday. His second (requiring) open-heart surgery. He's ok and will be home tomorrow. He'll have a couple of months recovery before he can again help me in the shop. But he's planning on sailing with me this summer. He and his wife are avid dancers. The meds told him that he got thru this ok because he was in such good shape from dancing. He's my age and I've told him that his dancing will extend his life -- like I think boatbuilding.and sailing will co for me.
  15. 1. It's two coats of white AlwGrip 545. I'll probably just leave it at that. 2. At the start I bought 4 opening ports from B & B. Expensive, but good ventilation. 3. Just barely. But I have all my side mirrors set up to see the "blind spot" on the aft quarter. I'm more concerned about what's in the adjacent lanes. 4. It's the barrier coat as well as the finish (AWLG 545). "Chessie" won't routinely be in any slip or at a mooring. She'll mostly live in my driveway. 5. Now that I'm her morning hair dresser, I can do no wrong. But as she recovers (broken wrist) and won't need help doing hair, I better be more attentive. With a long driveway to a back-yard garage, the yellow lines help a great deal. Today laid on the 2nd varnish coat for the two sprit booms.