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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on March 2

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About Pete McCrary

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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  • Location
    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..

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  1. "Chessie" is anxious to travel and wants her skipper to make her road-ready. She has her tires at 50 psi and her tow vehicle on standby in her stall: She'll just have to be patient. Tomorrow I load her with safety equipment try to make rain gutters for the aft locker's hatch. Thursday she'll be made road-ready for departure Friday am for Solomons Island and the Chesapeake CatBoat Association's annual Patuxant River Shootout (handycapped races) on Sunday. I hope that we (son Jim & I) beat them all. But they will probably assign a handicap factor that will set us back to reality. After this weekend sail we take Chessie to North Carolina for B & B to look her over and give me a few tips on sailing a "cat-ketch" rig. And especially lowering sails and furling them as if in an emergency. Hopefully we'll get a few good photos which will be shared on the forum.
  2. Started last Saturday installing the portholes. Cutting, dry-fitting, shimming in 16 places because of the curved surfaces, and recruiting help took until this am (3 days). My Annie agreed to be the inside-the-boat-person. The first one took an hour. The next three about 75 minutes. Here's what the starboard side looks like: Sometimes my driveway boat activity is observed be our neighborhood Barred Owl: Wingspan ~ 5 feet. We call him (her ?) "Owl Jolson" . . "Chessie" is now on schedule for a sailing family outing Memorial Day weekend at the Maritime Museum in Solomons Island, Maryland. Then a grandson's confirmation in Norfolk. After that Annie & I and "Chessie" will be at the B & B yard and dock on Friday, June 2nd, for a checkup and sailing tips for her cat-ketch rig. Building her has been a pleasure and a challenge over a two year period. That was a year longer than I anticipated.
  3. By that do you mean the space under the footwell sole? If so, then it's covered with a deck plate just like the one over the ballast tank. The cockpit lockers (port & starboard) have hatch covers where the framing has gutters all around. I expected those lockers to be bone-dry -- but they have significant water intrusion after rain. I haven't been able to locate the leak points and I'm beginning to suspect the hatch covers. But the gutters look like they would channel all runoff into the footwell. I didn't install any gaskets -- thinking that the gutters would do the job. The deck plates in the footwell sole are keeping rainwater out. They are closed by a hand-turned knob which compresses a rubber gasket. The locker aft of the footwell leaks a lot of rainwater. Here also I didn't install a gasket. But I think I will have an easy fix for that. Presently rainwater flows in from the aft deck and down the inside-side of the hatch right into the bilge. I think I can channel that runoff to the bottom of the hatch frame and into the footwell. As mentioned before I had drilled 16 holes (1/16") in the sheerstrake [locating the four portholes]. After drying out the boat, I covered them with masking tape. And last Thursday we had at least 1.5" of rain -- and no water intrusion into the cabin. That problem seems to be solved. Speaking of portholes -- I've started their installation. Here are a few pixs: The layout provides a 1/8" spaceing all-around for bedding. A hole cutter (D = 2.75") at the corners made the job easy. I'll epoxy and waterproof the edges before before bedding the portholes. You can see my thumb holding it in place. The "spigot" will be trimmed flush before bedding. Hope to get all four installed this coming week.
  4. Maybe this is how I'll road-transport the rudder assembly: Maybe also tie a yellow ribbon on the end of it. Today I rolled the [lowered] masts sail-tracks up, and took a file and some emory cloth to the sail tracks to rid them of any "burrs" or other dinks that could impead easy sliding of the sail slides. Especially where sections [of sailtrack] meet. Also some Teflon lubricant. Then turned them over with sail-tracks down. Next I'll lub the sail slides. Solo raising/lowering of the mainmast is getting easier. Here are photos showing just how high the mainmast must be raised in order to open/close the forward hatch. I'll make a permanent mark on the mizzen to index that position. It's 18.5 inches above the mizzen where the OD change from 3" to 2.5". After the initial launching (w/o sails) and with only about 90 minutes on the water -- I found more than a gallon of water in the bilges around the ballast tank. My initial concern was that there was a leak. Now, I'm not so sure. It could have been rainwater intrusion over several weeks outside and not yet made completely rain proof. Before the 90 minute voyage the cabin sole was dry -- but I didn't check the bilges aft of Blk 3! There could have significant water in those places that I didn't know about. And a gallon in just 90 minutes is a very big leak. So, now I'm investigating. At this point she's completely dry inside -- and as rainproof as I can make her. Bedded hardware including the Lexan windows in the dropbaards. There are only little 1/16" holes in the sheerstrake indicating the locations of the not-yet installed portholes. And they are partially filled with 4 coats of primer & paint. She's closed up tight with a rain gauge on the garage. After a few inches of expected rain I'll make an inspection of the entire interior. If there is any intrusion -- I should be able to locate it. Next I'll fill the ballast tank with a garden hose and see what happens. Hopefully, I'll learn that rainwater was already in the bilges when we made the 90 minute cruise. If that test passes, then I'll make another cruise on tHe water. This time sailing. I'll report the results of thes observations.
  5. And I've seen on this forum a brake light that "blinks" loudly as opposed to simply going brighter. Motorcyclests love them. Any auto parts store.
  6. Or a bright Sunbrella cover (uv protection) for the rudder -- supported (overhead) to one of the masts overhanging the transom.
  7. 'Hadn't thought of that. Something to consider. But if the tailgater is that close, the likelihood of major additional damage is very high. In other words, the probability of an actual collision occurring, where there's only damage to the rudder, is very low.
  8. Got all the rigging done including the anchor setup. But not in time for the SWS Spring Cruise. Good thing I bent the sails while in my driveway. Needed to widen the downhaul hooks -- needed a small blow torch and some leverage to open them up. Also discovered (I should've known) that the sail tracks should have been carefully trimmed (with a file or Emory paper) and lubed with silicone. Same for the sail slugs. Made a list of adjustments needed. That'll be next before her first sail. Here are a few pixs: I'll probably trail the rudder like this. I'll rig a safety line up to the [lowerer] mast. Here's the anchor in its "on-the-water" position. Notice the accidental lineup of the fluke with the graceful extension of the sheer line. The roller and anchor seem to blend in nicely with the boat. I was concerned that it would be an ugly appendage. This is how the anchor is secured while sailing. But for road transport, my plan is to carry it in the anchor well. Here she is, sails bent on, in her driveway. I'm trying to raise a crew of one experienced sailor for her first trial sail. Probably have to do it solo. Results will be posted.
  9. I have two small (i.e., 3/16" line) cheek blocks that I have planned for topping lifts on both masts. Couldn't they could be substituted for the halyards?
  10. Wonderful !! Two problems solved together. No 8' pole! I only need to fabricate a temporary crutch for the main while I step the mizzen. Probably a folding "X" set on the aft deck. Thank you very much.
  11. Until I realized that the hatch couldn't open with the mast folded -- I had planned to hold the mast upright (while moving to the cabin) by reeving the halyard thru the anchor roller and belaying it to the anchor cleat. But even that won't work if I can't stand in the hatch opening. I really don't want to walk on the cabin roof, especially with boat on the trailer at the ramp. A fall to the Tarmac could be crippling or worse. With my CLC PockerShip I had to walk on the cabin roof to the foredeck-- and didn't like it one bit. At least on half the trips I had the side stays to hang onto.
  12. Good point. My neighbor helper had serious injury and boat damage raising (or lowering ?) his mast when a wake toppled them both. Best practice is don't do it. Maybe in a canal. But in about 7 yrs of sailing folding mast boats, I've only needed to lower a mast on the water one or two times.
  13. Thanks guys for the rudder-transport tips. Now, another problem. Once I hinge the forward hatch cover I'll no longer be able to raise the mast while standing in the hatch opening. So I've been thinking of solutions for a solo sailor. Here's my conceptial sketch: I'm sure this "wheel" has been invented before -- but I haven't been able to find a sketch of it. So, in the next day or so I'll be trying this. The idea would be to fabricate a pole ~ 8' long with an concave arch cut in its 3"- end that could find purchase just under the eyelets used for the snotter. By standing in the companionway, the sailor raises the mast by hand to his shoulder, then placing the 3" end of the pole under the mast (and below the snotter attachments) -- and then raising the mast by leveraging the pole [against the mast and the purchase provided by the snorter attachments] until the foot of the mast is snug against the tabernacle. At this point he would wedge the foot of the pole against a jam-block at the aft end of the garage roof and its breakwater. Then he would duck below and thread the mast-securing nut to its bolt. Fini. Lowering the mast would be a little easier [physically]. Standing in the opening of the forward hatch, the pole is jammed between the mast's snotter attachments and the garage roof's breakwater. Below, the mast-securing nut is removed and then, returning to the hatch opening, the sailor removes the jam pole and lowers the mast and rests it on the partially opened hatch cover (positioned so that the mast and hatch cover are perpendicular to each other). If the mast can be reached (from standing in the companionway), then it is raised slightly so that the forward hatch cover can be closed and the mast then lowered completely into its transport crutch at the mizzen [position]. Bear in mind that it is important to this octgarian not to have to climb up onto the cabin roof. PLEASE !! Critical commentary, suggestions, alternatives, watch-out-fors, etc. would be very much appreciated. This has to be solved before I hinge the forward hatch cover. And I'd like to do that before her first cruise. PS -- The pole would be stowed on (or in) the tow vehicle. If anticipated cruise would encounter low bridges (or a canal cruise), then it could be stowed in one of the cockpit coaming (seat backs).
  14. Yes, but for the last 40 years, Annie doesn't go on the water, even for a short day-sail.. That's why I make everything work solo. My overnight crews have [so far] always been teenage grandchildren with the understand that they will promptly obey every polite request, rude demand, etc. with no questions asked. From watching my grandchildren in the presence of their parents -- I just can't trust the pre-teens to understand how important that is.
  15. Steve,... We'll definitely get in some sailing with you and others at the MASCF in October. But Annie will probably be with me and we'll [both] be bunking at a B & B -- which would rule out camping on Wye Island.