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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on June 16

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About Pete McCrary

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..

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  1. Don,... Although I couldn't make adjustments to it, I used the European compass on "Tattoo" for several years and noticed no problems. But I was only sailing on local waters and didn't pay much attention to it because I [overly] relied on my GPS. But I'd never had a magnetic vehicle compass (car or boat) that didn't have compensation adjustments. I think that's just "nuts." I love gadgets -- except those that I can't fool with.
  2. Be careful about European compasses. I had one for my CLC PocketShip "Tattoo," but it didn't have any way to adjust it. No little adjusting pins (east-west & north-south) for the offsets (compensation?) to correct magnetic disturbance caused by magnetic material on your boat. Nothing in the "owners"" manual. I found a source indicating that in Europe compass adjustments are done inside the compass by persons "officially" qualified by the government. I bought it from West Marine and had no idea it was from Europe until I tried to reach the manufacturer.
  3. Thanks, Paul,... I'll certainly mark inches on my mizzen. Hadn't thought of that. I'm sure it'll help when unstepping.
  4. Thanks, Steve and Chick. The extended tube would do the same as my contraption -- and much simpler. About the only advantage I see in mine is that it can be attached to whichever side of the partner is easiest for stepping. I'll start fabrication today.
  5. Stepping the mizzen mast for my "Chessie," (a Core Sound 20 Mk 3), without assistance is a hazardous procedure. Although the mast only weighs about 22 pounds, when near verticle, it has to be held overhead by two hands while standing on the cockpit deck -- and simultaneously monouvering (while watching) its base and aligning [the mast] parallel to its stepping tube -- and then lowering it into the tube. It's a balancing act made without any stabilization other than two feet on the deck! And if there are any gusts of wind -- it's quite dangerous. Here's my concept that would add a stabilizing 3-D corner that would also guide the heel of the mast right into the tube: The stepping aid would be easily installed over the mizzen's partner tube. Then, holding the mizzen at its CG with one hand and the mizzen almost horizontal, the heel is then placed at the 3-D corner formed by the stepping aid and the partner tube. While pressing the heel against the corner, the mast is raised (i.e., rotated) to near vertical to the point where it drops into its tube. No "balancing" is required and the mast is always under control. At least, that's the concept. I'll try it and report the result. Critical comments and suggestions welcom.
  6. Attention builders! My almost new (only 3 hours operating time) Suzuki 2.5 (15" shaft) is for sale. $500 cash. I purchased it new in 2015 for use with the CS 20 Mk III that I was building. However, on the 2nd time in the water (just me and an empty ballast tank) there was excessive cavitation. With 2 or 3 adults aboard it was ok. But I sail mostly solo, so I need a long shaft. The motor is presently at the B & B shop and upon payment they will release the motor and provide a receipt. I will ship the owner's manual and tool kit when I know the address of the buyer. In a few weeks the motor the will be at my home in Manassas, Virginia Email me, if interested. pkmccrary@verizon.net It fits nicely in a CS20.3 locker. Graham says it will also fit into a CS17 locker.
  7. The new Suzuki 2.5 comes in both short (15") and long (20") shaft versions. Here's a photograph the long-shaft version: I've yet to know what the purpose is of the square rudder-like thing shown above the anti-cavitation plate. It seems to me that (for a transom-mounted OBM) it would prevent a reversing (180 degree) rotation UNLESS there is a motor bracket that extends substantially aft of the transom top edge. Even further for a transom with a negative tilt (like a CS20.3). I guess that wouldn't be required if it had a reversing gear? BTW, the short shaft version has the same feature. Does any forum member know anything about this feature of the new Suzuki 2.5 ??
  8. During my first motoring solo in "Chessie" (a Core Sound 20 Mk 3) with empty ballast tank, the 2.5 Suzuki (15"shaft) cavitated excessively. The cavitation plate was just at the surface of the water. However it was deeper and ok with 3 adults aboard. But I sail mostly solo. I'm going to have to replace it with a long long shaft (20" version). But the photos of the new 2.5 Suzuki (both long and short) have a "plate" on the shaft that would seem to prevent full rotation for reverse! unless the motor is mounted on a bracket that extends aft of the transom by about 6" to 8" or so. At least the top of that "plate" would have to be below the bottom of the transom (just like the cavitation plate now has to be). Am I seeing this wrong? BTW, my 2.5 Suzuki (15" shaft) is a "new" old version (no big plate on the shaft) -- except it has only 3 hours of just-fine running. I'll sell it for $500 -- buyer pick up in Manassas, Virginia.
  9. Amos,... I used 3/4" yellow pine. Yes, I'm happy with it -- although I'll try not to have any hardware on the caps. I have purchased but not yet installed a pair of flush (lift-up) mooring cleats for the stern. I plan to install them just forward of the transom.
  10. "Chessie" is anxious to travel and wants her skipper to make her road-ready. She has her tires at 50 psi and her tow vehicle on standby in her stall: She'll just have to be patient. Tomorrow I load her with safety equipment try to make rain gutters for the aft locker's hatch. Thursday she'll be made road-ready for departure Friday am for Solomons Island and the Chesapeake CatBoat Association's annual Patuxant River Shootout (handycapped races) on Sunday. I hope that we (son Jim & I) beat them all. But they will probably assign a handicap factor that will set us back to reality. After this weekend sail we take Chessie to North Carolina for B & B to look her over and give me a few tips on sailing a "cat-ketch" rig. And especially lowering sails and furling them as if in an emergency. Hopefully we'll get a few good photos which will be shared on the forum.
  11. Started last Saturday installing the portholes. Cutting, dry-fitting, shimming in 16 places because of the curved surfaces, and recruiting help took until this am (3 days). My Annie agreed to be the inside-the-boat-person. The first one took an hour. The next three about 75 minutes. Here's what the starboard side looks like: Sometimes my driveway boat activity is observed be our neighborhood Barred Owl: Wingspan ~ 5 feet. We call him (her ?) "Owl Jolson" . . "Chessie" is now on schedule for a sailing family outing Memorial Day weekend at the Maritime Museum in Solomons Island, Maryland. Then a grandson's confirmation in Norfolk. After that Annie & I and "Chessie" will be at the B & B yard and dock on Friday, June 2nd, for a checkup and sailing tips for her cat-ketch rig. Building her has been a pleasure and a challenge over a two year period. That was a year longer than I anticipated.
  12. By that do you mean the space under the footwell sole? If so, then it's covered with a deck plate just like the one over the ballast tank. The cockpit lockers (port & starboard) have hatch covers where the framing has gutters all around. I expected those lockers to be bone-dry -- but they have significant water intrusion after rain. I haven't been able to locate the leak points and I'm beginning to suspect the hatch covers. But the gutters look like they would channel all runoff into the footwell. I didn't install any gaskets -- thinking that the gutters would do the job. The deck plates in the footwell sole are keeping rainwater out. They are closed by a hand-turned knob which compresses a rubber gasket. The locker aft of the footwell leaks a lot of rainwater. Here also I didn't install a gasket. But I think I will have an easy fix for that. Presently rainwater flows in from the aft deck and down the inside-side of the hatch right into the bilge. I think I can channel that runoff to the bottom of the hatch frame and into the footwell. As mentioned before I had drilled 16 holes (1/16") in the sheerstrake [locating the four portholes]. After drying out the boat, I covered them with masking tape. And last Thursday we had at least 1.5" of rain -- and no water intrusion into the cabin. That problem seems to be solved. Speaking of portholes -- I've started their installation. Here are a few pixs: The layout provides a 1/8" spaceing all-around for bedding. A hole cutter (D = 2.75") at the corners made the job easy. I'll epoxy and waterproof the edges before before bedding the portholes. You can see my thumb holding it in place. The "spigot" will be trimmed flush before bedding. Hope to get all four installed this coming week.
  13. Maybe this is how I'll road-transport the rudder assembly: Maybe also tie a yellow ribbon on the end of it. Today I rolled the [lowered] masts sail-tracks up, and took a file and some emory cloth to the sail tracks to rid them of any "burrs" or other dinks that could impead easy sliding of the sail slides. Especially where sections [of sailtrack] meet. Also some Teflon lubricant. Then turned them over with sail-tracks down. Next I'll lub the sail slides. Solo raising/lowering of the mainmast is getting easier. Here are photos showing just how high the mainmast must be raised in order to open/close the forward hatch. I'll make a permanent mark on the mizzen to index that position. It's 18.5 inches above the mizzen where the OD change from 3" to 2.5". After the initial launching (w/o sails) and with only about 90 minutes on the water -- I found more than a gallon of water in the bilges around the ballast tank. My initial concern was that there was a leak. Now, I'm not so sure. It could have been rainwater intrusion over several weeks outside and not yet made completely rain proof. Before the 90 minute voyage the cabin sole was dry -- but I didn't check the bilges aft of Blk 3! There could have significant water in those places that I didn't know about. And a gallon in just 90 minutes is a very big leak. So, now I'm investigating. At this point she's completely dry inside -- and as rainproof as I can make her. Bedded hardware including the Lexan windows in the dropbaards. There are only little 1/16" holes in the sheerstrake indicating the locations of the not-yet installed portholes. And they are partially filled with 4 coats of primer & paint. She's closed up tight with a rain gauge on the garage. After a few inches of expected rain I'll make an inspection of the entire interior. If there is any intrusion -- I should be able to locate it. Next I'll fill the ballast tank with a garden hose and see what happens. Hopefully, I'll learn that rainwater was already in the bilges when we made the 90 minute cruise. If that test passes, then I'll make another cruise on tHe water. This time sailing. I'll report the results of thes observations.
  14. And I've seen on this forum a brake light that "blinks" loudly as opposed to simply going brighter. Motorcyclests love them. Any auto parts store.
  15. Or a bright Sunbrella cover (uv protection) for the rudder -- supported (overhead) to one of the masts overhanging the transom.