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smccormick

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smccormick last won the day on February 6

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About smccormick

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  1. CPR Training !

    Speed and depth is critical.
  2. CPR Training !

    Maintain my cpr for professional rescuers cert every year. Good skill to have in our repertoire.
  3. Midnight wondering from the Ch. Mate

    So all of your questions have been well answered. I just wanted to answer the specifics of question 3, the bright transom on sport boats. I spent a good portion of my young life working on these boats and the answer, as always, is yes sometimes. Newer boats would be veneered with 4/4 or less or even vinyl wraps. Usually there is a step in the transom planking/layup at the boot stripe. The transom planking/veneer would then be glued to the existing structure and all would be planar. All of the boats I remember had the end grain exposed, so the topsides paint would end at the glue line or a bit onto the transom planking. Older builds would have mahogany/teak planking as a part of the structure connected directly to the transom framework and would be finished bright.
  4. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    Fairing the high build primer complete, just a few edges to touch. Need to spot fill a a couple of places, but not much. This is a huge step forward for me. Will be moving on to the deck build and tumble home bumpers next. Yay, something new. Here's a snicker for you. When I hear of guys using house paint and kills primer on their builds, I admit to cringing more than a little. Then I swept up the sanding dust from the high build fairing effort and realize that I have a $50 bill sitting in the dust pan. All of a sudden, kills sounds like a pretty good idea.
  5. Aussie Open OB-20 #26

    I like all the little customizations that everyone does. Pretty.
  6. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    Thanks guys, Lenm, The boards are sepele, they're part of the sub structure of the deck, a slight deviation from the plans and will be covered over. . For whatever reason, my planking had pulled the shear clamp out about .125" between the frames in the cockpit so I glued some 2 x 3 stock against the clamp to straighten it. I didn't want the 2 x 3's to remain in the finished boat so I needed to transfer that load to the covering board and wasn't confident that the .375" ply would be up for the job. Any epoxy fairing filler can go directly onto properly prepared/ground glass work. The grinding part is why I like to trowel on filler while the glass is still green stage. I use a combination of prepared fillers and shop made fillers. With a cost around one third, a majority of work uses shop made. This project uses all alexseal products. All the white surfaces and brownish spots you see in the preprimed photos above are fillers. The darker areas of the white fields is the glass showing through the filler, so it's a skim coat in many areas. But my goal is to achieve a fair surface without sanding any long fibers of the glass.
  7. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    The long and tedious task of fairing the interior edges and corners is nearly complete. A few coats of 302 high build added to create the illusion of progress.
  8. Early 50's Thompson runabout restore

    That is or will be a beautiful little skiff, I'm glad you're taking the time to save it. I would love to get my hands on a decent one myself.
  9. Painting

    You can use most of the two part paints below the waterline, they just can't soak for extended periods. I think two week is the limit of the paint I use.
  10. Summer Breeze - Core Sound 17, Mk-3

    I wish I lived closer to you Chick, I would be over there picking them up already. I have two flawless tanks for those 50's vintage engines. May let them go for less than an arm and a leg.
  11. Outer Banks 26 #1

    Ken, how's the recovery going? Are you able to make progress on the boat?
  12. Ocracoke 20 in OZ

    A disclaimer to everyone; I am in no way suggesting there is any issue with the laminate designs from B&B for this or any of their models. They know far more than I do about all of this. I am merely suggesting that if you run in debris laden waters or tend to interact with the bottom of the waterway more than most and feel more comfortable with a bit more glass on the bottom that this may be one solution. Lenm, The drawing below is the most efficient way I have found to accomplish the laminating if you want two layers of glass on the bottom. It eliminates all the steps in the glass except for the one on the topsides above the chine. Fairing compound and a bit of sanding and that goes away. On the smaller hulls there may be no need for laminate 6 and 7 depending on the skin girth at maximum beam and the width of the textile that you have chosen. Even if the strip is needed, it's not the full length of the hull and can be tapered out to minimize fairing. Glass scarfs should be at least 12 to 1, so .037 for 1208 or .444". I am not comfortable with that and find it quite easy to extend the taper to 1.25 or more. The biggest problem I have seen with glassing the bottom is how do you transition the glass strip from the straight keel to the forefoot. As it (the textile) bends down the forefoot you begin to gather a lot of extra material at the edges. In most cases people will solve it with darts, I suggest against this. With any of the biax products that you'll be choosing for your build, you can work them down and flat with a little poking and squeegeeing. Perhaps not with 30" of tail hanging over, but with a properly tailored piece, it's very doable. Estimating the bottom size of the OK20 at 16' (water line length) x 3.5' , subtracting 6" overlap on keel and chine and ignoring the taper at the forefoot yields a 16x2.5 area of the bottom (half) that would have added glass. This is 4.44 yards at 20 oz per (1208) or 5.55 lbs of glass. Add resin at a 60/40 ratio is 8.33 for a total of 13.88 lbs per side weight penalty for this change. This is a conservative number because of the tapering bottom size forward that I ignored and hopefully you can squeegee your way to a better resin to glass ratio. A lot of folks "in the know" will say that the biggest mistake a builder can make is second guessing the architect and beefing things up, so you'll need to evaluate the benefits of this modification for your own operating conditions. Here's a visual. The shape and size of the drawing is not in any way to scale.
  13. Ocracoke 20 in OZ

    Interesting research on failure modes for the cores. Just saw your message above about the diagram, I'll get it together in the next couple days.
  14. Ocracoke 20 in OZ

    Lenm, a couple of things I have learned along the way: Glassing will take far longer to complete than you will ever think reasonable. Do one strip of glass at a time, bow to stern. Wait for it to kick and grind a nice bevel to accept the next strip with 36 grit, except for the keel overlap.. Don't grind into the wood. If there is a slight step off, smooth with thicken epoxy while laminating the next strip rather than divot the planking. Grind the second piece overlap flat with the surface. Essentially a scarf. This will pay dividends galore when fairing. Secondary bonding is fine for our work, as long as the overlap is prepared correctly. It's done all the time with satisfactory results. Get the slowest hardener you can for the resin system you're using. Even if you wait until the fall to do the work, you'll appreciate the long working time and easy pace. I went with a 7-8 hour working time hardener, laminating was a casual event rather than a fire drill. Biax without csm can be pulled out of shape easily when positioning. If you have a tacky surface, applying and smoothing 1700 will be frustrating. Even 1708 will be a pain. Applying prewetted biax is an order of magnitude more frustrating. The design calls for a single layer of 1208 on your model I think. If you have a very slow cure, position the glass on the surface dry, fasten the top edge if you have to. Roll up the glass length wise about 3/4 of the way. Saturate the substrate, roll the glass down, then roll the top edge down and do the same, then finish wetting out and squeegee. This will be a disaster with a short pot life. With a short pot life, either wet the planking, let cure and grind, then apply or just wet through the glass. Don't mess around with brushing, much too slow. Dump a bucket of resin on the surface while squeegeeing it around. Easier said than done on some surfaces but you'll get the hang of it. For the bottom and large relatively horizontal surfaces get a squeegee with a long handle, so you can stand up and reach to the keel. I doubled the glass on the bottom of my build for the extra impact resistance, It was around a 54 lb penalty and worth it to me. If you look at the keel and chine overlap and the small distance between them, it really is a small area to fill to get double coverage. I can draw a laminate diagram if you are interested. Order of events important to minimize work and fairing. Doing 2 layers of lighter glass rather than one will double your work and introduce another bond line. Getting a really slow hardener or waiting for it to cool would save a lot of work. Any surface where the next step is fairing, I would suggest applying fairing compound onto the green resin rather than peel ply. It's cheaper, lighter and saves a couple steps.
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