Joe Nelson CS#35

I am both happy and sad to report that this boat has been sold. Got my asking price. Still an active lurker and supporter of B&B boats! My sailing days are numbered in boats that require human ballast. Bad hip. Larger sailboats in my area seem problematic. Not a lot of sailing water other than rivers. I am going to be a power boater more now.

OK, prime sailing season is coming up. Looking for interest in purchasing this turn key Core Sound 20. 503.702.7042 Joe

I've got a bad hip and have not sailed my Core Sound 20 for two years. Surgery this coming winter. I'm hoping to get enough out of her to pay my out of pocket costs. $6,000. Located near Portland Oregon. Main and mizzen sails are from B&B in Egyptian cream with slide lugs. Also have the mizzen stays'l. Good painted trailer too. She has an extra long shaft Yamaha 4 hp 4 stroke on a bracket which is available at an additional cost. Built with marine meranti plywood, system three epoxy and paint. Blue with tan deck and interior. Not detail cleaned from winter yet, but will be before shown. Sailed in the San Jauns from Bellingham to Sucia ect for 10 days. Handles heavy wind well. Can step the mizzen to the middle slot for very high wind or main and mizzen can be reefed with 2 reef points. Standard rigging for main and main sheet for mizzen. Updated to sails with track lugs since picture was taken. No longer sleeve luff and sails have 2 reef points. Slightly more sail area and battens instead of the hollow leech.

Interesting. I usually do the opposite; head up in puffs and bear off in lulls. Your technique seems counter-intuitive to me, but at the same time I can maybe see some logic in it. I'll have to try your approach and watch my VMG. Interesting. I usually do the opposite; head up in puffs and bear off in lulls. Your technique seems counter-intuitive to me, but at the same time I can maybe see some logic in it. I'll have to try your approach and watch my VMG. If you bear off in a lull, you'll loose a lot of ground that you've made up during the good wind and playing the lifts. Object is to make the mark, not go fast.

Wondering if anyone has made or had made a boat cover for storage while on the trailer? I am going to make one. Thinking of using the masts on crutches as a ridge pole to shed the water off of the boat.

When racing lightnings, we'd bear off a bit in a puff and gain speed and whe the wind died, we'd pinch up and gain more ground towards the mark. Then bear off again in anticipation of the next puff. This netted the biggest gain towards the windward mark.

Tom, I dont know. I do know that I cannot go as high as a lightning, but we make up for it in speed by sailing offwind a bit more. Hard to beat the sloop rig for pointing ability. If looking for a race boat, class boats are better, as they have standards and competition is more fair and even between boats of the same kind. Lightning class boats are fun! But much more tippy, as initial stability is much less than a CS20. I feel much more at ease in the CS than I do in a lightning. I've raced quite a bit in lightnings. After racing for a while, its nice to get into the CS and enjoy the self tending fore sail and stability while single handing.

I didnt understand your first question. I do have tracks. We were not sailing a course, so its hard to say about how high the two boats point. We were going for speed. If we had a mark to sail to, I'd have a better idea, We were just sailing together on various points of sail. Even downwind he did pretty well. But we were dry and sitting on the seats and he was hiked out on the rail. Not planning on selling my boat.

Lug rigs can be very good. Michael Storer was up for a messabout a couple years ago when he came to the USA. He sailed a local GIS, which he designed. It sailed very well to wind and he is a master! Had a tough time staying up with him in my CS20. But he was by himself and I had a passenger. Point is...the lug rig is no slouch. I would not have any concern about using one. Very simple to rig. Short mast.

I used the term "our boats" as a hope for sewing project ideas for boats in the B&B family, not as an advertisment for canvas work. But Charlie, I'd be willing to put a new zipper in your bag. Sounds like something I could do. You've been a lot of help to me over the years and have given me good advice. Hoping to see some pics of past projects you guys have done or had done.

And I am planning lots of projects. Outboard cover, boat cover, etc.. Any suggestions as to other good sewing projects for our boats?

We're in a little bit of a pickle. The tracks are stainless. So no perfect solution. I put some of that white stuff on the rivets when I attached them to the mast/track, that's supposed to reduce the problem. No noticable issues yet after 6 years.

Thanks guys. Maybe I'll try the less invasive route of drilling out my rivets in the ends of the track so I can lift them to round the corners before taking them off to have welded. I already have some clinkers inside my mast from previous rivets that have been drilled out.

No, shes a land lubber most of the time on a trailer.

Anyone have a picture of what properly rounded track ends look like?

Would I need to pop the tracks off the mast to smooth the corners? Any issues with the slugs on the sails needing to be smoothed out on the edges?

I think I am going to inquire about getting the tracks welded together. This would eliminate most of the issues, I believe. Too bad you cant get one piece tracks that are long enough.

I am still having problems with my sail slugs catching on the sail tracks while hoisting or dousing sails on my CS 20. I'm wondering about getting the tracks welded together? The multi piece masts with steps between the differing diameters are a challenge too. I would love it if my sails slid up and down effortlessly.

I didn't think that racers reefed their sails? Maybe he's worried about that tabernacle?

I put multi piece sail tracks on my CS20 multi diameter spars. The mizzen isn't bad, but the main still gets hung up while hoisting and well, in both directions. I believe that the tracks are not straight. I used the method of washers under the track and rivets. Looking for some ideas or even just one idea to locate where the low spots are. I don't have anything 20' long to use as a straight edge. I've worked on it a bit. Drilled out the worst offenders and added more washers. But it is not close enough for my liking. Just for interest, I am going to start using my boat to salmon fish on the Columbia River. Leave the spars at home and use the kicker. The centerboard actually really helps slow trolling speeds in wind. Keeps her tracking straight while steering with the rudder. I've got that 4 horse Yamaha. She really runs nice on the boat!

Epoxy+Graphite=smooth, easy bottom.

That confirms why I am building a 20' x 42" wood strip canoe. I often admire the simplicity of some of the other plywood canoes, but then the reality of 500# minimum payload comes back to bite me. My stripper is about done. It has 1,000# capacity at the 6" waterline. I think it will weigh about 90# when done with 3 caned seats. I still marvel at a project that can be done in a few weekends.

I've got the wooden sprits. Might still be able to figure a way to do it. The biggest challenge is trying to get the end of the sprit into the loop on the clew when it's blowing. I like your solution. No need to stab the end.

I pretty much have a handle on your reefing system. I assume this system will work for one reef point? I've got two. This looks great! Joe

Any ideas what the payload capacity of the Moccasin is at the 6" or so waterline?