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chipveres

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About chipveres

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    Hollywood, FL
  1. But seriously folks: One of the old tricks was to mount a second hitch on the *front* bumper of a two-wheel drive pickup. It got the drive wheels off the slime and allowed the driver to see the position of the trailer. As well as getting you some funny looks while driving down the road. ???
  2. Please also consider World Panel, Inc. in West Palm Beach FL. They have treated us right through two boats so far.
  3. Joke Only- Pinoy's Spindrift was built of the famous Spruce-Pine-Fir that only grows in lumberyards.
  4. It is definitely possible to have too much directional stability in a kayak. I paddle a Chesapeake 18 that tracks straight through wind and fair-sized waves; like it is supposed to. It does inspire confidence for offshore trips. But it is a chore to turn. You horse it onto a new heading and set off straight again. :-\
  5. The drawings for my boat (Princess 26) actually show the block for the mizzen sheet mounted at the very top of the rudder, nearly over the pivots (pintles & gudgeons). Would a similar placement get you enough clearance?
  6. The ideal is to have the weight of the boat *almost* fully supported on plenty of centerline rollers, with the bunk boards just kissing the bottom to keep the boat from rocking. To launch, pour a bucket of water on each bunk. Then put the trailer on the inclined ramp and a shove rolls the boat off and into the water. Unfortunately, most trailers (including mine) are far short of ideal. There are too few centerline rollers, and they lack strength. This has led to two solutions (?) One is to replace the bunk boards with a series of rollers so they can carry more weight without sticking. The other is the Float-On trailer that is actually designed to be submerged. If you use one of these, be sure to keep the trailer bearings greased and watch the "waterproof: tail lights. Good Luck!
  7. How extensive is the "damage" compared to the total area of the tape? Glass tape always gets a fat edge when you put resin on it, sort of a reverse taper. You *need* to sand that off to get anything like fair. I suppose the tape would be stronger with the fat edge left on, but it would be uglier than week-old sin. Also the fibers at the fat edge tend to cut your hands.
  8. I want to point out an excellent idea Graham put in the fine print on one of his plan sheets: If you need to remove a screw held in by epoxy, heat it. I used bronze screws and epoxy to firmly install a block in completely the wrong place. :oops: Weeks later, I used an old Weller soldering gun to heat the screwhead smoking hot. I was able to scrape the epoxy out of the slot with a small screwdriver. Then a reheat and the screw came out easily. I used a small handsaw to saw the block out without damage. This would not have been possible with the screws still in place. Thanks, Graham.
  9. Yes Sir: The Tampa or Orlando areas are where native Miamians go when we get tired of the hustle & polution. The rural area around Orlando is prettier, but has a slightly more extreme climate. Hotter in the summer and colder in the winter. Plenty of water in either place.
  10. Here are two opinions, to go with my two elbows of course: Raka has the glass and epoxy you need in Ft. Pierce, FL. Along with a real can-do attitude. They didn't have the 1208 tape I wanted, so they ran a roll of cloth through the bandsaw and handed me the cutoff. Ring 772-489-4070. In building two boats, I have had two scarf joints let go after I thought they were properly made. No tape & glue joints have given up. So I think you should use butt joints when you can.
  11. If you are planning to varnish or oil the thwarts, you could counterbore for the screws and put dowels or little rounded plugs over them. The little round plugs are available from Rockler or Constantine's. I wouldn't take that much trouble on my boat, but some folks do.
  12. The above gentlemen are absolutely right. Get your wife / girlfriend / significant other to help you build the boat. Four hands are eight times as good as two hands. And you will come out with two experienced boat carpenters.
  13. As it is, I am using a temporary "lower half" of the number 2 bulkhead to hold the hull in shape while I get the bottom and keel on. The keel will probably be "cold molded" in place by mixing 80% scrap lead and 20% epoxy. The Hollywood Police & Zoning department will have me in the crowbar hotel if I try regular lead casting in my backyard. If I did it again, I would split #2 horizontally and just leave it in place.
  14. Yes, sir. Chip Veres & CJ Walker are building a Princess 26 in our side yard in West Hollywood, FL. We have hull number 14, so I thought there were 13 other lucky captains? So far the boat is just bulkheads and sides, but I almost ready to start the bottom. (Warning- Not Approved By Mr. Byrnes) If I were starting over, I would divide the #2 bulkhead in half horizontally rather than vertically. Then double the joint on both sides to recover the lost strength. This is the only substantial change I would make.
  15. I agree completely. Although our old boat was as nasty and vile as her crew, she always brought us home. Forced to sell her, we feel like we lost a family member. So we are building a new boat, and hope (just hope) she may have a better temper...