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meester

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meester last won the day on February 11

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About meester

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gaithersburg, MD
  • Interests
    Nimrod SoF canoe, puddle duck, Core Sound 15 in progress

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  1. Hi Chick, I used Interlux perfection, a 2-party polyurethane over most of my boat. It has a lot of solvent fumes, so I used a gas-mask style 3M respirator with organic fume filters. I could sure smell the fumes when I took the mask off. I'm happy with the results, but it's not perfect. I also used some Rustoleum for some detail and also on my previous build, a puddle duck. The Rustoleum enamel is an alkyd, even their marine enamel, so it's a step below single-part polyurethane. There's a paint-thinner smell, but not bad. What about repairs? The Interlux perfection has a shelf life of about 2 years. There's no way I'm going to buy a whole pint of that expensive stuff to make a repair 2 years from now. The rustoleum shelf life is 5 years and it's cheap. I'd have no problem buying a can to fix up a beach-scraped bottom. Bob
  2. Don, I agree!
  3. Hi All, I put up the sails for a mock-up of the rigging and here's what she looks like. That's Miss Melanie, and the boat is named "MellieMac." Still lots to do before we're ready for the water. Bob
  4. Here's an online calculator that can shed some light on the topic, at least for screws in wood. It's from the American Wood Council (whoever that is). http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/connectioncalc I ran a couple of calculations for a 1" #10 wood screw connecting 20-gauge steel to "mixed southern pine." For shear load, the ASD capacity (whatever that is) is 115 lbs. For pull-out, the ASD capacity is 95 lbs, which is basically the same. Agree to agree? Having the line go around the mast will take a lot of the load off of the eyes. With the line around the mast, all the eyes do is to keep the line from sliding up and down the mast. I'm going to use something like this for my mizzen. The primitive snotter I tested this morning turned out to be a pain. Bob
  5. I think she maybe just got named. I like "Cover Girl."
  6. Hi Stbd, That's gorgeous work. I think mine is going to look a little less refined.
  7. HI Paul, Thanks for the tapered end idea. I think that might look nice near the stern. I'd like to cover the tip of the bow because, um, it's an ugly spot where the glassing went a little wonky. Hi Walt, My CS15 hasn't been splashed yet, but I made a polytarp sail for my puddle duck, and it pointed upwind pretty well. I used the sail design from Mick Storer's OzDuck plans. It certainly was good enough to go upwind without being frustrating. Mick's reallysimplesails.com website has a ton of info on lug rigging. Ross Lillistone has a few youtube videos detailing his lug rig and reefing that are worth checking out. Hope this helps. Bob
  8. Getting closer! I dry fitted my rub rails, and I really like the way they look. They're white oak with linseed oil finish. I still need to tidy up the ends. Can anybody point me to a nice way to finish off the bow? Next is hardware installation and rigging.
  9. Pete, I like the idea of the cover - rudder sling thing. Red ribbon on the end, and tiller to port so that your tailgater sees the side of the rudder instead of seeing it end on. But what to call this thing? Dock strap? Rudder udder?
  10. I put down some non-skid on the floor of my boat. I used medium grit walnut shells available through HD. 5 lbs is plenty. Lessons learned: Fine grit probably would have been better. Medium was uncomfortable on the skin, and I ended up sanding to flatten the texture enough that I can kneel on it without damage. You can see the walnut peeking through the sanded-off paint in the picture below. With medium grit, I found that it took several coats of paint to fill in between the grains to really lock them down so they wouldn't grind off under foot. For the base layer paint/epoxy you put down before sprinkling the grit, this is a time when a thick layer works best. I got it a little thin in places and the grit didn't stick as well, giving me thin spots. Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum. It pays to be a neat freak. I pulled off masking tape while my base layer of epoxy was still green. Later coats of paint lifted stray grains and glued them down in the channels I had masked off. I had to scrape them off and I have to do an extra touch-up paint session.
  11. Hi RBA, I'm a real beginning builder compared to the guys who have answered your post. I'm just getting close to completing my first stitch-n-glue boat, and not at all experienced in repair (yet). Here's my view for what it's worth. Doing a good job with the filling and patching also takes skills. Also, I found that cutting and shaping small pieces of wood is only slightly less work than larger pieces. So number of wooden pieces is probably a better way to judge the work than the size. Of course, as you weigh things, only you can judge. At any rate, the first step is going to be to get rid of all the rotten wood. Then look at what's left and make a plan. I'd also like to stress (Ha!) the mechanical importance of the centerboard trunk. If you're sailing along, say beating to windward, the forces on the centerboard are about the same as the forces on the sail, and the trunk has to be strong enough to support it. These forces also create torques that you balance by putting your body weight on the rail. To gauge the strength that's needed, ask yourself if you'd be willing to stand on the centerboard if the boat was on it's side. The real CB torque calculation involves ratios of mast length, beam and CB length in addition to body weight, but body weight gives you a convenient way to get a feeling for the strength that's needed for a light dinghy.
  12. Hi Thrillsbe, no worries. I look forward to inviting you aboard. --Bob
  13. An update on my CS 15 build. After a long winter, primer and sanding, I got a couple coats of paint done on the interior this weekend. The floor is still just epoxy - I'm waiting for my walnut shells. I'm going to leave the bulkhead and hatch door bright just to show off that it is a wooden boat. The square hole in the transom is for the bumkin Bob
  14. I made a birdsmouth mast for my CS 15. Aluminum will definitely be easier and faster. I d recommend to get the aluminum and get on the water before the kids grow up.
  15. Oooo! That's elegant.