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Hirilonde

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About Hirilonde

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  1. Not only this, but both ends of the hole will be located properly which is usually rather important and the inaccuracy will be hidden.
  2. The only boats I use Kirby on are classic plank on frame boats. It sticks very well to wood that will become soggy and is soft enough to handle the expansion a traditional boat goes through in it's first couple days in the water each year. Even if you got a 2 part LPU to stick, it will likely crack as it is so hard and doesn't like expanding wood. It also works very well in paying out seems. If I am doing a modern construction boat with thin candy shell of epoxy I go with modern plastic paints.
  3. Sorry to distract from you thread Chick, but I am looking into a sail bag to hold my Lapwing sails with full length battens left in. Any pictures, diagrams, comments on yours that might help?
  4. I've carved over a dozen West Greenland Style Paddles. The length of them is determined by your physical measurements. I have tried a couple different formulas, some using your height and found this one to be the best as a first paddle: Using height factors in your leg length. Short legged people with the same height as long legged people would end up with the same paddle. Sitting in a kayak nullifies your leg length from having anything to do with it. (For total length add your finger tip to finger tip with outstretched arms plus the distance from your elbow to fingertip together. The loom should be equal to your shoulder width. The blades lengths are what ever is not loom.) Very experienced paddlers may end up wanting to modify this a tad to fit their stroke, but it is a good place to start. And you should develop a good stroke before modifying anything. During a discussion on this with Jeff some time ago as I was considering how to market these things he suggested that 3 sizes could very well cover just about everyone except the serious paddler who might have more specific requirements. And these people will be ordering custom anyway. I think he is correct, and this may be what I do when I set up my site after retirement. If you are paddling anything at all wider than a real kayak you will find the beam to effect how your paddle works as well. I know Jeff's canoes are quite narrow because he expects you to use a double blade paddle. You may however want to add some length if the width of your boat in your station is more than 24". The stroke with a WGSP is along side the boat much more so than a Euro paddle. It doesn't take much beam to make the WGSP awkward to use at all.
  5. And it works really poorly for varnish. Even a sanded over corner seems to burn through varnish quickly. It has to be very round to last under the sun.
  6. Kirby doesn't even pretend it is a high gloss paint or hard paint. It is for classic boats that want to look classic. It is soft, which means it will deal with expansion and contraction. Hard paints crack in such applications. Kirby will tell you it is gloss and really looks more like a semi-gloss which is what was available when classic boats were first built a lot more forgiving of scratches. I'm not trying to sell anyone on it, just don't put down what you don't understand.
  7. I agree with the tough part but I have never found them a joy to work with. As to Kirby, I find it the best paint available for wooden boats without epoxy.
  8. Good stuff Jeff. As to material weight it could mean a couple of things. Some use yard weight to mean square yard, others use one yard of material at the sold width. http://fashion-incubator.com/fabric_weight_and_conversions/
  9. It is the image Paul. Note how the non-skid areas are broken up into "panels". It just looks classier that way IMO, and there is little if any loss of function.
  10. Have you had a chance to see how well the white rubber non-skid area cleans up when it gets dirty Graham? That is my pet peave about most non-skids.
  11. I never found non-skid uncomfortable in bare feet, though some of the large aggregate stuff like walnut shells I bet are. Some of them grip well when wet, Interdeck is one. They just seem to hold dirt streaks and scuff marks tenaciously. I can't speak to any of those products you linked first hand, but today's technology is pretty good. I would also consider some kind of foot block you could use that would be removable if your major concern is rowing. You don't really stand and walk around a lot in a Spindrift. You can always scuff up the sole of your boat and add non-skid paint later if it proves necessary. I painted the sole of my 9N and have concluded it wasn't really necessary. But then I haven't experienced not having it. If you do end up with non-skid, be it paint or mats, I find it looks best if you mask off the sole inboard of the sides, transom and bulkheads such that the corners are not non-skid paint, or cut the mats to such a pattern. Note the patterns PAR made for the deck in one of his photos in another thread. It just looks really great when you do such things. It looks like you framed it in.
  12. It's a tough life, but some body has to do it.
  13. The only time the size of a boat hinders single-handing is when it is physically too big to muscle the lines.
  14. Yes, polysulfides should not be used with plastics. Manufacturers of acrylic and polycarbonate also specify silicone for glazing. The issue with silicone is that once it touches a surface it can be near impossible to ever get anything else to adhere. Mask very well anything you bed in silicone. You may have to paint or varnish there again some day. edit: The only real down side to non-skid surfaces is keeping them clean. I won't use them if I can find another way that is reasonable. I went so far as to make Teak floor boards for my Lapwing.
  15. Absolutely. If you bed hardware first you get a mechanical seem where the paint meets the bedding. The overlap of painting/varnishing first and bedding over it is very important for all hardware.