Introducing MalwareBytes 3.0 (affiliate link)

Hirilonde

Members
  • Content count

    2,602
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    86

Hirilonde last won the day on April 13

Hirilonde had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

168 Excellent

About Hirilonde

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Charlestown, RI
  1. Kirby doesn't even pretend it is a high gloss paint or hard paint. It is for classic boats that want to look classic. It is soft, which means it will deal with expansion and contraction. Hard paints crack in such applications. Kirby will tell you it is gloss and really looks more like a semi-gloss which is what was available when classic boats were first built a lot more forgiving of scratches. I'm not trying to sell anyone on it, just don't put down what you don't understand.
  2. I agree with the tough part but I have never found them a joy to work with. As to Kirby, I find it the best paint available for wooden boats without epoxy.
  3. Good stuff Jeff. As to material weight it could mean a couple of things. Some use yard weight to mean square yard, others use one yard of material at the sold width. http://fashion-incubator.com/fabric_weight_and_conversions/
  4. It is the image Paul. Note how the non-skid areas are broken up into "panels". It just looks classier that way IMO, and there is little if any loss of function.
  5. Have you had a chance to see how well the white rubber non-skid area cleans up when it gets dirty Graham? That is my pet peave about most non-skids.
  6. I never found non-skid uncomfortable in bare feet, though some of the large aggregate stuff like walnut shells I bet are. Some of them grip well when wet, Interdeck is one. They just seem to hold dirt streaks and scuff marks tenaciously. I can't speak to any of those products you linked first hand, but today's technology is pretty good. I would also consider some kind of foot block you could use that would be removable if your major concern is rowing. You don't really stand and walk around a lot in a Spindrift. You can always scuff up the sole of your boat and add non-skid paint later if it proves necessary. I painted the sole of my 9N and have concluded it wasn't really necessary. But then I haven't experienced not having it. If you do end up with non-skid, be it paint or mats, I find it looks best if you mask off the sole inboard of the sides, transom and bulkheads such that the corners are not non-skid paint, or cut the mats to such a pattern. Note the patterns PAR made for the deck in one of his photos in another thread. It just looks really great when you do such things. It looks like you framed it in.
  7. It's a tough life, but some body has to do it.
  8. The only time the size of a boat hinders single-handing is when it is physically too big to muscle the lines.
  9. Yes, polysulfides should not be used with plastics. Manufacturers of acrylic and polycarbonate also specify silicone for glazing. The issue with silicone is that once it touches a surface it can be near impossible to ever get anything else to adhere. Mask very well anything you bed in silicone. You may have to paint or varnish there again some day. edit: The only real down side to non-skid surfaces is keeping them clean. I won't use them if I can find another way that is reasonable. I went so far as to make Teak floor boards for my Lapwing.
  10. Absolutely. If you bed hardware first you get a mechanical seem where the paint meets the bedding. The overlap of painting/varnishing first and bedding over it is very important for all hardware.
  11. Dynel was intended mostly to be an alternative to canvas for decking because it would print through the resin a pattern much like canvas printed through the oil based paint. I bet it works well for Don's lounging panel. Not sure why the videos Jamestown Distributors has made show it for sheathing a hull, but you might find the techniques useful Walt. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search.do?freeText=dynel video&resultPref=all&page=GRID&history=
  12. Walt asked me to comment on bending and bedding SS keel strips. He is considering flat and hollow half oval. I do the bending first. I make a template of the stem and trace it onto a piece of scrap plywood. I screw small blocks of nominal 2X along the line spaced out a few inches and beyond the curve a little in both directions. This helps keep the curve fair. I then clamp one end of my stock to the block representing too far up the stem and slowly bend and clamp the material around the blocks. DO NOT drill screw holes first. These may cause kinks or pinches in the material when you want a smooth fair curve. Half oval can be tricky to bend. A slow even bending of the material is important to avoid kinks A rubber mallet can be helpful. When I am happy with my dry fit of the curve I cut off the few inches that I first clamped to where I want it to actually end and drill the holes. I put a couple screws close together at the bow and space them out more along the curve to the straight portions where I use 6" centers usually. I then fasten this forward piece in place and either mark off where to cut the aft end, or fit the second section needed to go the whole length. When the entire chafe strip is installed and I am pleased with it I am ready to remove it for the actual bedded installation. I usually bed keel strips in polysulfide (LifeCaulk or 101). Sikaflex is also a good choice if you want a bit more adhesion. But when mechanical fastening is the method it isn't really needed. Anything more adhesive will make replacement/repair harder and this is considered a sacrificial piece. The nice thing about hallow half oval is that is captrures goo in the space it creates between the hallow and the keel. If you apply the goo well, this will become a great gasket for all of your fastener penetrations as they (screws) pass through this gasket before they penetrate the keel. With flat stock, or solid half round/oval you have to be a little more careful tightening the screws so as not to starve the joint of goo. I ALWAYS apply goo to both surfaces being bedded together. This helps assure there are no voids. I put a thin smear on one surface and enough on the other to assure there is too much in total and I will get some squeeze out during fastening. This is the only way I know to assure you end up with enough and no voids. With flat back material it is key to tighten the fasteners to snug without squishing out all the goo. Some suggest tightening the screws again after the goo cures. I think this is a huge mistake. The goo has bonded to the screws as well, and tightening after breaks that bond and you lose the integrity of the seal. It is the wood penetration by the screws that you are most concerned about. I have never bothered to epoxy the screw holes between dry fit and bedding, but this does not hurt any. Sort of a side bar, regarding butyl tape. I have only used it for glazing, but it surely has been a successful method on boats too. Because it is rubber that has never been vulcanized it stays soft for almost ever. And because is it firmer material it might be easier to snug fasteners without starving the joint. Hope this is helpful and best to you on the finishing.
  13. It is hard to tell from the picture, but can you find the end of the void? Or does is continue through the whole sheet? Basically there are 2 kinds of voids in plywood. One is a damaged spot or missing knot leaving a hole in the layer. The other is when there is a seam in the layer and the 2 pieces of veneer did not meet. In some US junk plywood I have found the meeting edges of one veneer overlap the other creating a bump in the product. In either case this doesn't seem like an issue, but I would fill it like you suggested just because too much work goes into boats to leave it to chance. Your corner might be more prone to damage without the repair.
  14. Thanks Danny. Correct on both. I cut the stem long as it is part of the layout when securing the frame for planking and then I removed the tapered portion of it where it extended above the breast hook near the end of the project and cut it to the final reveal. Then drilled and inserted some 5/16" bronze rod through it for the cross piece. The plans called for cutting the stem flush with the shear and installing the breast hook flush with both. Thanks thull. edit: Yeah, what Paul said, we answered at the same time.
  15. Jamestown Distributors sells the brand name Dynel which is another copolymer fabric designed for abrasion resistance. It is also used as an alternative to canvas for decking wooden boats. The purest would cringe at this idea though. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4214