I always use my roof rack to bring home my wood. If you do not have one, it should be your next purchase.
I recommend a high quality rack system from either Thule, or Yakima.
I have used Thule for over 25 years.
Here is a photo of my leather rigging. I used 5/16" strips cut from a latigo strap sold by Tanty Leather.
For toggles I used Deer antlers cut and drilled.
I finished my kayak so it would be transparent, then a year later I painted it white.
Why not carve the Greenland paddle now while the paint is drying? It only takes one or two days to carve it.
All you need is a Western Red Cedar 2X4 .Most people recommend a length that measures from the ground
to under your curled fingers with your arm straight above your head.
After paddling for about 30 minutes I got out and had a cup or so of water in the bottom. Is that normal
or should I be looking for the leak? It has three coats of varnish for water proofing.
I just finished sewing up my kayak using the double cord method with 8 oz polyester. I might of pulled it to tight. I am looking for suggestions as to what is best to fill the holes before painting. I plan to keep it clear by using Famowood Dura-Tuff Clear Coat.
Thanks for the info about using the hot knife to melt the cord ends. What do you do about small pull holes in the 8 oz polyester fabric? I have not used
an iron yet to shrink the fabric.
I just completed stitching from the cockpit to the stern using Jeff's double cord method. The nylon cord loop is sticking out about one inch
past the stern. Do I just cut it off or is there something else I should be doing with the loop? I assume I do the same thing to the two ends in the cockpit.
Here is a photo of a student working on his frame at the Center for Wooden Boats at Lake Union outside under a pavilion.
It sound like you got the lodging and food covered.