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Adios

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About Adios

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    Mt Pleasant, SC

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  1. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Yes, that's a great idea! it's worth it's own thread and some photos. Wish I had known about it or researched it better before pouring foam. No going back now but i'm sure that there is adequate space for drainage and some standing bilge water under the foam.
  2. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Hmmm. I never would of thought of that technique nor have i seen is described. Definitely sounds better than my method in regards to possible future rot issues. Next time... Thanks
  3. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Next came the foaming part of the project. Graham had recommended not pouring foam but rather gluing blocks of foam in each compartment so as to allow for condensation and drainage through he limber holes. I made a compromise as shown. I cut sheets of 1" 2# foam and glued them (epoxy) so that there is a space below the foam for bilge drainage. The perimeter of the inset foam sheet was sealed with heavy duty duct tape to make a water tight seal so that liquid foam would not make it past the foam sheet when poured. 2# density foam was then poured and once set the tops cut off flush with stringers and bulkheads. I made a mock-up of this method first. The liquid foam adheres so tenaciously to the wood, sheet foam and duct tape that there is no worry about it coming apart. Next the ply flooring goes in.
  4. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Like so. Framing went on top with clearance for the fuel lines to complete the installation
  5. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Still chugging along. The transom issue is still unresolved but the plan is to move it aft with a centerline fishbox and access to the bilge. More on that later. Since my last post, the fuel tanks have been installed, conduits for fuel, water, electric and hydraulic lines installed and the bilge compartments foamed. The decking (ply + glass) is next with the final decking planned as teak. For the fuel tank installation, support frames were constructed as shown and neoprene rubber + 5200 used to prevent chafing. These tanks must expand so they cannot be "foamed in". Instead there are clamps which secure the tanks and 1" blocks of neoprene are installed around the edges of the tank to prevent any movement.
  6. Outer Banks 26 #1

    Kennneee, Great project and really nice work! Congrats. cant wait to see the finished cabin layout.
  7. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Jay, I'm in Brickyard Plantation building in my garage. Tight fit. Glassing the sole in more sensible and it may come to that.Teak is so beautiful though. Stupid expensive! Kennneee, Beautiful Work! I have to take a break from the glass busy work and do something that looks a bit more like progress. Is that the outer banks and do you have a thread going? where's the link?
  8. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Yes, I will glass the inside of the transom and bulkheads and tape the joints. The next step for me is figuring out the redesign of the transom layout. I still have to go back and clean up limber holes, sand and put on another coat of epoxy on the entire bilge. Yuk!
  9. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    I was thinking of something like your second photo. I do want room for mechanical and bilge access and some storage. I was thinking of moving the bulkhead back to perhaps 12-14" from the transom so that I could have storage space on either side of the livewell/fishbox. Also, I might raise this off of the deck 4-6" to allow for the toe space that you mentioned. The plan is for a 200 yamaha on an armstrong bracket/swim platform. The door is appealing but I would be afraid of unacceptably weakening the transom. I love the teak. I will do teak deck and combing boards if costs allow. I really want it to look like a scaled down version of the classic big sportfisher
  10. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    I need some advice, though. I did not anticipate that the distance between the aft bulkhead and the transom would be so large, 31' in the centerline. my plan is to cut out the above deck portion of the bulkhead and move it aft so that it would be easy to reach or climb over the transom while fishing/swimming, etc. I would probably widen it in the centerline to accommodate a fishbox or livewell, too. any thoughts or suggestion are appreciated. thanks
  11. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Sorry, somehow i"m lacking on the side shot view. Since my last post, I've done all fillet joints and glassing below the waterline. Slow going and not very fun but a good hurdle to clear.
  12. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Barely fits in the garage. Wish I had a bigger shop!
  13. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    We flipped her over some time ago. It was a fun party! IMG_2211.m4v
  14. Ocracoke 256 #3

    Thanks for the advice. I'd like to stop by the shop sometime. I'll send you a PM for phone number (if I can figure out how to!) Thanks, Johnb
  15. Ocracoke 256 #3

    Chris, I am building an Ocracoke 24 ( see "Ocracoke 24, Lucky #13" thread) and am planning the interior finish. What type of foam board (thickness, density, etc) did you use for planking the interior? I was planning ply over the ribs but structural foam seems like a much better idea. I assumed that you glassed over afterwards? Beautiful boat, can't wait to see her on Charleston harbor. Any advice appreciated Thx, John McFadden Mt Pleasant, SC
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