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Adios

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About Adios

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    Mt Pleasant, SC

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  1. Outer Banks 26 #1

    Kennneee, Great project and really nice work! Congrats. cant wait to see the finished cabin layout.
  2. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Jay, I'm in Brickyard Plantation building in my garage. Tight fit. Glassing the sole in more sensible and it may come to that.Teak is so beautiful though. Stupid expensive! Kennneee, Beautiful Work! I have to take a break from the glass busy work and do something that looks a bit more like progress. Is that the outer banks and do you have a thread going? where's the link?
  3. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Yes, I will glass the inside of the transom and bulkheads and tape the joints. The next step for me is figuring out the redesign of the transom layout. I still have to go back and clean up limber holes, sand and put on another coat of epoxy on the entire bilge. Yuk!
  4. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    I was thinking of something like your second photo. I do want room for mechanical and bilge access and some storage. I was thinking of moving the bulkhead back to perhaps 12-14" from the transom so that I could have storage space on either side of the livewell/fishbox. Also, I might raise this off of the deck 4-6" to allow for the toe space that you mentioned. The plan is for a 200 yamaha on an armstrong bracket/swim platform. The door is appealing but I would be afraid of unacceptably weakening the transom. I love the teak. I will do teak deck and combing boards if costs allow. I really want it to look like a scaled down version of the classic big sportfisher
  5. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    I need some advice, though. I did not anticipate that the distance between the aft bulkhead and the transom would be so large, 31' in the centerline. my plan is to cut out the above deck portion of the bulkhead and move it aft so that it would be easy to reach or climb over the transom while fishing/swimming, etc. I would probably widen it in the centerline to accommodate a fishbox or livewell, too. any thoughts or suggestion are appreciated. thanks
  6. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Sorry, somehow i"m lacking on the side shot view. Since my last post, I've done all fillet joints and glassing below the waterline. Slow going and not very fun but a good hurdle to clear.
  7. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Barely fits in the garage. Wish I had a bigger shop!
  8. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    We flipped her over some time ago. It was a fun party! IMG_2211.m4v
  9. Ocracoke 256 #3

    Thanks for the advice. I'd like to stop by the shop sometime. I'll send you a PM for phone number (if I can figure out how to!) Thanks, Johnb
  10. Ocracoke 256 #3

    Chris, I am building an Ocracoke 24 ( see "Ocracoke 24, Lucky #13" thread) and am planning the interior finish. What type of foam board (thickness, density, etc) did you use for planking the interior? I was planning ply over the ribs but structural foam seems like a much better idea. I assumed that you glassed over afterwards? Beautiful boat, can't wait to see her on Charleston harbor. Any advice appreciated Thx, John McFadden Mt Pleasant, SC
  11. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    Peel ply coming off. I spite of best efforts, there were some tiny voids that were painstakingly open and filled with epoxy. An additional coat of unthickened epoxy was applied. Finally, a final fairing was done (mostly at the glass overlap along the chines) before painting. Priming was with interluxe barrier coat below the waterline and sanding epoxy primer above.
  12. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    For any of you who may have had an interest in this project, my apology. It has been a long time since I have posted but the project is still ongoing, SLOWLY. It's a hobby after all. Some updated photos follow. I am now at the point of glassing in the bilge compartments and thinking ahead to the interior finish. After fairing, the hull was covered with 18 oz glass, doubled at the keel and chines. After wetting out, peel ply was applied and all of the bubbles worked out.This was done in one stage (for strength) and took a surprising amount of epoxy. This part is not a one man job and the help of some interested and knowledgeable friends was very much appreciated.
  13. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    I picked her up and put wheels under the strong back, cleaned up the dust to get things ready to glass the transom. The plan is to leave the transom bright and have an outboard on an Armstrong bracket I had previously painted the transom with epoxy (WEST 105/207) to protect the veneer from damage. It was sanded to remove gloss and cleaned of dust with acetone. Draped with 7.5 oz E-glass and taped in place and wetted out with 105/207. It took 2 additional coats (with foam rollers while green) to fill the weave. It came out very clear. I'll sand it with 220 or finer and add another coat before varnish. Don't know why that top picture keeps coming out sideways...sorry!
  14. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    For those of you asking, please accept my apology for so much time between posts. Very little work has been done this summer. The pace at work has been busy and time has been better spent with family. We also have had a very hot summer with many 95+ days which makes working with epoxy impossible. I'm back at it, though, and hope to have the boat turned before too much longer. I've sealed the wood with unthickened epoxy, faired with WEST fairing compound and glassed the transom just today. We plan the glass the hull next weekend. Pictures follow. Unthickened epoxy rolled on with foam rollers to fill and seal woodgrain before application of fairing compound. Entire boat slathered with fairing compound. Fairing board made with 6mm ply and #36 grit sanding belts. After LOTS of sanding and dust! Pretty fair at this point but still needs touchup of some shallow spots.
  15. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    After half a day of #40 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander
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