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BillB

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About BillB

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  • Birthday 12/14/1945

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    Male
  • Location
    Tacoma, Washington
  1. Elizabeth, Thank you for your kind remarks. I made the skirts using rip-stop nylon that I purchased at Jo-Ann Fabrics. You can get the same material, silicone coated, from a Kite supply shop. The idea was to make them as light as possible. These fold up and easily fit in a 1 quart zip-loc bag when not in use. The rip-stop nylon will stretch when wet and shrink back when dry but water will not weep through. I painted my Moccasin 12 and Moccasin 14 Hull # 1 so I didn't have to see the 'holes' in the boat. ☺ Let me know If I can be of further assistance. Bill wburk4133@comcast.net
  2. Thank to all who responded. I have mentioned to Graham that I considered the $200 it cost to build my first 12 foot Moccasin the best $200 bucks I ever spent! This boat was a little more due to 3 sheets of ply instead of 2, but well worth the added cost when balanced against the enjoyment of use.. I always personalize my boats with updates to the look or feel of the craft but not the original design, like the slotted gunwales or skirts and floatation. Since you can not get back into these craft should you capsize, I want it to at least stay afloat with all my gear strapped in rather than have to chase it down the river, which I have done. I haven't weighed this boat yet, but it's sister is 37 lbs. The hull # 1 was 36 pounds but there have been additions that will increase weight by a couple pounds. This boat will weigh more, it hasn't made it out the shop yet to be weighed, I'll amend this thread with the weight. Bill
  3. Thank to all who responded. I have mentioned to Graham that I considered the $200 it cost to build my first 12 foot Moccasin the best $200 bucks I ever spent! This boat was a little more due to 3 sheets of ply instead of 2, but other than that it is the same boat as the 12 with few differences in design. I always personalize my boats with updates to the look or feel of the craft but not the original design, like the slotted gunwales or skirts and floatation. Since you can not get back into these craft should you capsize, I want it to at least stay afloat with all my gear strapped in rather than have to chase it down the river, which I have done. I haven't weighed this boat yet, but it's sister is 37 lbs. The hull # 1 was 36 pounds but there have been additions that will increase weight by a couple pounds. This boat will weigh more, it hasn't made it out the shop yet to be weighed, I'll amend this thread with the weight. The attached image shows the fishing rod mount that fits into the slots in the guwales and locks in place with rotating wood catches, so easy to put on and lake off, same with the design of the bows for the skirts. Bill Sorry for the double post . . ..
  4. Almost finished, just the skirts and related support bows left to make. I liked the slotted in wales I built into hull 3 so incorporated them into this boat along with flotation voids in the ends. The slots come in handy for mounting removable pieces to the boat like bows for the skirts and rod holder mount that spans the boat just far enough forward to not interfere with paddling. The spreaders and the breast-hook are mahogany and ash with clear pine used on the gunwales. The boat is finished bright with satin gloss varnish. It will be the boat I take on this years' trip. Bill
  5. attached is an image of the search results for epoxy creep. the link shown will take you to the data.
  6. Here is a link to more information about epoxy creep HTTP://www.adhesivestoolkit.com/Docs?test?Durability%20Design%20and%20Testing%20-%20Creep.xtp It looks like you can't connect from here, so have to copy and paste the link in your browser.
  7. I agree, the epoxy doesn't creep the joined surfaces do, when under stress and over time. Epoxy we use on boats is stronger than the wood it is joining and I have never had an epoxy join fail, but have had the wood fail leaving wood still attached to the epoxy.
  8. I have experienced this with both thickened and un thickened epoxy. The gunwales are attached to the hull with thickened epoxy and show no sign of separation. The scarf joints are 8:1. and are staggered on the hull. You may have hit upon the problem as starved, due to over clamping. There is no crack at the join, it is as though the two pieces are pulling apart and the epoxy is stretching but not cracking. I refinished my boats every two years and can easily return the gunwales to their new condition. It is just the fact that it is happening that puzzles me.
  9. For the gunwales on my Moccasin boats, I cut pieces to make the 3/4 inch square strips then scarf the pieces together with un thickened epoxy to achieve the desired length. When new, the joint is a visible line but over time the line becomes a line you can see and feel. The joint appears to be pulling apart lengthwise, could this be epoxy creep or am I doing something wrong? This time I have pinned the join with a dowel through the scarf joint in an effort to prevent this creeping. Anyone else experience this problem? Bill Update see attached image The dowel is not in previous gunwales but I am going to try it on this one.
  10. I have had similar results when finish was shaken not stirred prior to application. 2 cents
  11. Just returned from our annual camping trip. This year was to Murtle Lake in British Columbia, Canada. Murtle is the largest paddle only lake in North America. The lake has native Rainbow and Kokanee trout. The rainbow get quite large and provide an excellent fishing experience. Some cannot be brought to the surface with light tackle. We carry 110 to 120 pounds of gear in the boat and the Moccasin 14 handles the load very well. We have rip-stop nylon skirts that cover 2/3 of the boat and help keep out rain and splashes. We prefer to set up a base camp and do day trips fishing and exploring. We also do the Bowron Canoe Circuit in British Columbia, which is a world class 70 mile loop through lakes, rivers and portages. This trip involves making/breaking camp everyday in order to complete the circuit. It is easy to cover 10 miles a day to complete the circuit in 7-8 days. Highly recommend this boat, it has never failed to deliver us safe and sound to our destination. BillB
  12. I build in a detached, unheated garage and have installed a night-light socket and bulb in the cabinet I keep all my products that are damaged by the cold. Just turn it on when the nighttime temps are going to be below 40. I heat my epoxy that has been idle for a few months before I use it, stirring well before measuring out amounts. My preference for measuring epoxy is by weight using a scale. This method seems to use more hardener but a little hotter mix works well when it's cold. Bill
  13. GREAT LOOKING BOAT ! Outstanding job Alex. It sounds like she sails as good as she looks. I have been looking to build this boat as a row and small OB fishing boat, so the many images you posted were very much appreciated. Thank you Bill B
  14. I plan on attending on Sunday the 8th. Would like to bring my 14 foot Moccasin, but can only attend the one day :-(
  15. Ron, I left you a PM, since I didn't hear back I don't know if you got it. I mentioned a class 2 RIVER not rapids, these boats are not designed for white water and you can not get back in them if you capsize. That being said, I added flotation to the ends and secure all gear in the boat. The boat won't sink and I won't loose gear even tho' the boat is almost fully submerged. Bill