Phil

Greg We're on the same page. That's basicly what the drawing abv. is. I just wasn't sure if that was a butt joint or not. The normal drip edge on a door also has siding over it which provides a counter flashing of sort, with T1-11 you don't have that luxury. If you can get the drip edge back past the face of the T1-11, idealy like you're upper joint with a vertical leg, you're 2 steps up. It is a pain to make the extra cut, but just think of the T1-11 behind the head casing as a spacer. Good rule of thumb for all flashing details: If you can make the water run uphill 1" or more before it gets inside. It probably wont leak, but....

Greg Here's a detail for the top of the doors in the gable endwall. It looks like there is a T1-11 joint +/- 5" above the doors to insert the drip edge. If not a 1/4" deep sawcut would suffice but not work as well. Note how the hem is bent up so it wedges tightly into the joint. For the small amount of effort, this would add considerable life to the doors and jamb casings.

Hey Guys It's been awhile since I posted here but I have been keeping abreast of the builds. Nice job Capt Jake on the restore! and Greg how did that Loster boat for the class finally turn out? Here is a fun little Box-Kite project I did with a friend of mines kids, they loved it and I'm sure yours would too! I used 36"x 1/4" oak dowels with clear tubing to hold the 16" long spreaders to the verticals and 1'x4' mylar drafting film for the sails. Here are some sites for more designs. Have fun! 8) http://www.inquiry.net/outdoor/spring/kites/index.htm http://www.kckiteclub.org/DaveEllis/boxkite.htm

Pipefitter said Right on the mark! Buy the plans of the boat you "think" you want, study them, buy all the correctly scaled Bass or Balsa wood & have some fun. Here's one book that may help. http://www.instantboats.com/dmb.htm And a thread from the B&B forum here: http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4374&start=0 Good luck & post photos of your progress!

Joe, I just measured a hollow carbon fiber one (arrowshaft) that I have; 1/4" dia. top x 11/32" dia. bottom x 32" long.

Darrell Go to the bottom of the page. http://www.instantboats.com/books.htm

Deepy Joe Scrounge up a cervo!... and head to the closet for some sail material...

lbrewer This is an admirable gesture for the little guys. One thought; how about you finish the outside all ship-shapey.... then turn them loose on the inside below the gunwales? Good Luck 8)

Catfish Here's a link: http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Wood-Screw-Diameter.aspx So you're #4-40 would be a 7/64" shank dia. with 40 threads per inch, the(-40). So I've seen Blues & Channels, but never any "Ze"s

Thanks Mike for pointing that out! Sorry Frank I didn't realize you were linked to the Big "A" or I would have been doing purchases thru here. I'll edit the original post.

I may be mistaken, but I think the link at his site is the only source? The book is definately worth the $. If you do order from (OYB) ask for a complimentary copy of "Out Your Backdoor" magizine. 8) Mr. White has one really good story of building in Puerto Rico in the book.Very similar to the Haitian article in the recent WB.

"How To Build A Tin Canoe" Confessions of an old salt Robb White Very enjoyable read! Double click the store tab above and type in Tin Canoe in the Amazon search space. If you want to visit his site; http://www.robbwhite.com/ All you west coasties and PNW'ners give yourself a treat and learn about the southern Gulf coast & all you Southerners it'll be like Momma's home cook'in

That would be great. I've been using MicroStation for about 7 yrs. now, judging by the website SU would be a great addition. Thanks

Ingenious Dave...and a PHD in creativity as well I see... :wink: A+ I'm going to look into that software. http://www.sketchup.com/ You guys continue to amaze me!

Surprisingly dry and comfortable for such a small hull. We ran at of Orange Bch (Wolf Bay) into the Gulf thru some rough chop. Yes they are proud of them $$. The strake thickness changes may be more than just fairing!

I've been out on a 23' Carib. and studied the strake lines. I wonder if they are trulely developable(sp?) surfaces? Like 5/4" at mid ship WL then 1/2" 3 strakes down?? Overall, really nice piece of snot almost a luggy !

Oyster Looks like were the only one's bellied up tonight. I think it would be worth trying to get the lines for that little skiff! Even tho it is frozen in the "snot zone" :roll:

Dave Throw in an updated shot of your steering, if you don't mind. That sounds & looks(from your gallery) really 8) Phil

Hey Blacksmith welcome! I've used the "Teleflex" Safe-T ll with no feedback with a 50 hp for 2 years. It works very well. The no feedback has a clutch buit-in so that when you let go of the helm or don't apply pressure the boat tracks straight. When you apply pressure to turn, the clutch dissengages. There is no fighting the helm or keeping constant pressure to the left while going straight. I think it was about $200.

Pipefitter Check out this little gem. http://www.caribiana.com/ Phil

That is a nice hull!!! I run into these change thingy's, new idea thingy's everyday in building buildings (esp. with housewives with too much time on their hands!!!). They normally don't understand what they're getting until it's in 3-D staring'em in the face! Then they don't like it, so it's re-model time on their dime? Go fiqure :roll: . I've built models for 2 recent clients for just that reason. But with hiring a custom boat-builder, you would think the guy had a pretty good idea of what he was getting? Anyway glad you (& I hope the Master) have a good attitude about the situation! Would it be out of line to ask what this hull will cost the client? Phil

Sorry for mentioning the "P" word on your thread Oyster. I'll start calling it (Gymnanthes lucida) so it won't throw up so many red flags. Look it up you'll get a . Nice layout and joinery work on those gunwales!!!

That does sound like some major abuse. Good info Barry thanks! Here's a link for buying the welding rod. Have them send you a free catalog they carry alot of interesting stuff. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=73&Page=1 The rod doesn't show online??? but is in the catalog for $5.64 per lb. which would be +/- 80-100 lf.

I'll 2nd that Oyster! Barry I agree with all that you said. How do your river buddies attach the UHMW to their drift boats? While living in Eugene,OR I had the pleasure of fishing the upper McKenzie and the Rogue in a p-wood drift boat, wonderful design. Especially the double enders! Now here's a fishing guide with a boat!

Barry I think I missunderstood you: & I can't get the quote thingy to work right?? Quote: "Then flip it to do the bottom and paint the hull, install a sacrificial strip on the bottom and leading edge of the keel." I was thinking of beaching/ running aground. Sacrifical bottom skegs when you need them! Quote: "I always bed the thru hull screws in epoxy plugs. Been doing that for years. Never had a failure with even one of them and when it becomes necessary to remove a screw they are just backed out of the plug and can be rethreaded easily." I agree with the epoxy plugs, just not with doing thru-hull connections for sacrifical pieces of wood, plastic or whatever material? The detail shown connects thru the side of the runner with no thru hulls! The "T" shape could be any built up wood piece. The runner should last indefinately depending on maintenace.