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SteveKos

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Everything posted by SteveKos

  1. Hello all. Hope this is allowed. Due to an unexpected bargain boat purchase coming my way I am now the owner of another, bigger boat, and have to sell my lovely, almost new Spindrift 11 "Aqua Bat" to make room. Built with all quality materials, she has only a few slight scratches after a season and a half of regular use. She comes fitted with a Leg-o-mutton sprit sail on a 3 section aluminium mast as per Graham's standard design. She sails great, easy to row, and moves along nicely with a 3.5 Tohatsu outboard motor (may sell separately). You can view my build log here: http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/8931-build-log-stevekos-spindrift-11/ Low Price: AU$1500 neg. with (oversized) trailer. (This price doesn't even cover the cost of materials!) I live in Adelaide, South Australia.
  2. Thanks everyone for your input. It looks like the 17 will be the one I build, but I am still looking at other designs as well. I'm even intrigued by some of Jim Michalak's designs, particularly his prams. I sail frequently from Goolwa and a flattie would handle the mud flats and sudden shallows very well. I'm not going to rush this, I am enjoying the research! Yes Drew, if you do make the effort to venture down this way I will make an effort to catch up, whether or not I have mine built by then. Happy to crew for you just for the experience!
  3. Hi all. After my latest build, my lovely 'Aqua-bat' Spindrift 11, my thoughts are going to what next. My goal with building the spindrift was to not only acquire a sailboat that I could have some fun in, and learn some sailing skills, but also to further develop my boat building experience and skills for more ambitious projects. Now I am starting to think seriously about my next boat build, and I am torn between options. Of the B & B options, I have narrowed it down to the Core Sound 17 Mk3, the Core Sound 20 Mk3 and the Bellhaven 19. Of the 3 my leaning is more towards the CS17Mk3, due to the clever and compact design, and to be honest, the lower build cost, but I do like all three. I have thought about what I will want to use the new boat for, and I expect that it will be mostly for day-cruises and 2-5 day voyages around the gulfs of South Australia. For those who know my part of the world, you will know that sailing from Adelaide to the Yorke Peninsula across Gulf St Vincent, or over to Kangaroo Island for some coastal exploring and fishing is every yachtie's dream. It seems that any of these boats will handle such a task well. I expect that most of my sailing will be done solo or with 1 passenger/crew, so it needs to be an easy to sail and handle boat in a wide variety of conditions, and able to accommodate 2 in reasonable comfort. Sea conditions around here are very variable, so she will need to be able to handle all sailing conditions with safety. I would appreciate some thoughts on the comparisons of the three models in question. Particularly the differences in sailing/handling, cost and ease of build. This will be a long term project (my budget doesn't go to building boats!) so I will be purchasing materials as I can afford them and building the boat over an extended period (2-3 years). I plan to look out for bargains and good quality recycled or useable seconds at timber yards etc. One consideration is where to build it! I built my spindrift in my carport but I don't think I will be able to accommodate this next build here. I will be keeping the boat outside under a tarp once completed but I will need to find somewhere to construct her in the first place. I can cut materials and assemble various sub-components here, but accommodating the hull once 3D's will be the thing. Any thoughts and ideas will be much appreciated. God bless, Steve.
  4. Hello all. It's been awhile since I've been here. We are just emerging from a long and (for us) cold winter. Certainly not ideal for sailing anyway. I took Aquabat out for a post winter leg-stretch on Friday, and it was nice to get out on the water again! Now for a question. I'm considering options for increasing the sail area. Mine is a cat-rigg design but I use a Leg-o-mutton sprit sail. I just love the simplicity and ease of use of that sail. However, I went conservative on the sail area for the first sail. Now I am looking at adding some sail area. I think I have a few options: - Make a longer mast and get a larger sail of either the same style or more of a genuine cat design. - Stay with the same mast and buy a larger sail with a longer foot. (This will add sail with only a slight increase in heel with the same wind speed). My modified mast step can compensate for the increase in weather-helm by raking it a bit forward). - Modify the boat to include another mast step and foot mount to bring the mast further to the aft and convert it to a sloop. (I believe this has been done before, so I am sure I can get help with this here). - Add a mizzen mast. I haven't seen details of how this can be done but I am intrigued by this otion. Any thoughts? Cheers, Steve.
  5. Hi all. I thought I would offer a bit of a report on my first outing with the new Tohatsu 3.5 2 stroke. I got to try out the new motor a week or so ago. I don't have any images, and it wasn't the ideal experience I had envisioned. Firstly, I decided to launch the boat from a local boat ramp instead of on the beach, to make it easier (or so I thought) not having the waves to deal with when launching. Also as my 4wd currently has some issues with the transfer case not selecting properly, I almost got bogged on the beach last time without 4wd. Thing got off to a less than satisfactory start because, having never launched my boat (or any boat) from a boat ramp before, I totally embarrassed myself trying just to reverse down the ramp. I had to keep going forward to straighten up, time after time, and had to admit to one bystander that I was out for my first try-out with the new motor. He just smiled (probably thought I was a total loser). Anyway I finally got her launched, but as I headed out of the marina it became obvious that the forecast 10 knot winds were grossly inaccurate to the low side. The wind and swell put my (non) skills to the test with a brand new motor that I had never started on the water. Fortunately the motor started and ran flawlessly throughout. The first mistake I realised I had made was not installing the dagger board. Once I cleared the breakwater, the first tweak of the throttle and subsequent lurch forward brought spouts of water rushing up the trunk and all over me and into the bilge every time I hit a wave. It was enough that after about 5 minutes I had to reduce speed to a crawl to allow me to make some headway with the bailer bucket. (My newly installed Anderson Bailer was useless as all the weight was to the stern and the bailer was totally out of the water). Also, I had not fitted the rudder, thinking that steering with the motor would be the best option. Again - WRONG. I would have been far better fixing the motor in position and steering with the rudder. The tiller is much longer than the little handle on the motor, and the resistance to steering was more than I had expected. Also, due to the gudgeon pins installed in the centreline of the transom, I had to mount the motor to one side, which led to some unpredictable steering in the swell. A minor incident I must also report. After a brief stint downwind where I could open up the throttle just a little, I heard a noticeable 'crack' coming from the transom. I immediately throttled off and took a look. I couldn't see any damage at the time, but after I had returned and had the boat on the trailer, I noticed a fine crack along the join where the transom strengthener and the aft decking meet. The leverage that the thrust made against the transom was enough to just cause a fine crack. So, other than simply sealing the crack, I now have to find a way to strengthen the joint. I think a stainless steel angle bracket will do the trick, but I will have to find one suitable. Finally, to add insult to my embarrassment, when I returned from the outing, I destroyed my new phone when I waded too far into the water to lift the boat on the trailer. I bought a new Sony Experia Z2 recently, which is supposed to be waterproof. Unfortunately I had broken the rear panel in a minor motor-scooter accident, and had the panel replaced. Unfortunately the repairer didn't make the repair as waterproof as it was when new, and enough water got in to kill the phone (or so I thought). Fortunately I have since had word from my insurance company that the phone is only slightly damaged and is being repaired under warranty! So, to lessons learned: 1. Practice reversing up and down the driveway with a boat trailer before displaying your poor skills on a public boat ramp. 2. I will take the rudder and centre board with me next time I take the boat out with the motor. The centre board will, I'm sure, provide better steering stability and prevent the 'whale ahoy' spouts of water from rushing up the trunk into the boat. An alternative is just to cover the slot with duct tape, which might work while I think of a more satisfactory fix. (Maybe a mini centre board that will just fill the slot). 3. Next time I will fit the rudder and fix the motor in place and steer with the tiller (and extension) rather than the handle on the motor. 4. Put the phone in a dry-bag, or leave it at home. 5. I will fit a strengthening bracket to the transom and rear deck for extra insurance against stress damage. Other than that, the motor is fantastic. Lots of power for a little 3.5, and in less choppy conditions I think it might even get me up on a plane. I think the next trip out will be a trial with the motor fitted when under sail. Hopefully in lighter conditions. Cheers.
  6. Pity all is not as expected with your mod. I think k a juggler siphon will be all I will need with the range being pretty good anyway. I hope you can get your set-up working ok.
  7. I think I'll go with a jiggler siphon and a 5 litre fuel bottle. With a running time of over 2 hours at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle it isn't a hassle to refuel a couple of times in a full day's boating if you don't need to pour the fuel straight into the tank. Pressure bottles to me spell danger and bulb pumps are slow. A jiggler siphon can refuel a small fuel tank in seconds, and the fuel bottle can be held away from the motor a bit to avoid the possibility of falling out in lumpy conditions. Thinking about when I am likely to use the outboard, it will be for: 1. Low-wind days as a backup. 2. When on long trips as a backup. 3. When the wind becomes a bit strong for sailing, and a motor is a safer option. 4. On fishing trips where getting from spot to spot quickly is desired. I intend to do some multi-day trips on local rivers, lakes and estuaries, so with 2 x 5l fuel containers that will be plenty, particularly considering that most of the time I would be under sail. I want a good reliable motor that will give me enough power to get about well, light enough not to affect the trim of the boat too much when under sail, and is able to withstand a capsize every now and then. I think that the Tohatsu 3.5 2 stroke will do all this very well. We'll see. I'll post a report once I have had a chance to put it through it's paces a bit.
  8. Thanks for that Starboard. I ordered the motor today, and may have it for the weekend if it arrives in time. I ended up getting the long shaft model which should put the prop a few inches deeper in the water, after considering Steve W's comments. Starboard I would like some info on how you rigged up the external tank. I intend to do some extended trips in the boat and having a longer range tank would be a real benefit.
  9. Yes here in Australia 2 strokes are still a big seller, but I'm not sure for how long. W it stricter emissions laws under consideration this could change.
  10. I think you are referring to the 4 stroke. The 2s is 30lb. which is acceptable.
  11. The Tohatsu is a sweet motor too. Almost a copy of the Mercury. The 3.5 weighs just over 1 lb more than the 2.5. I am looking at a short shaft but it might be better to go with a long shaft. I could always cut down the transom if necessary to accommodate the shorty, it's only a matter of an inch or so to get it just right.
  12. Hi all. Well, after finding my sea legs in my recently built Spindrift 11 'Aqua-Bat', I'm now ready to add another accessory. I have had a couple of experiences already where the fickle wind has taken me out, but I've had to row a long way back. On one occasion recently I sailed up the coast about 8 km (5 miles?) only to have the wind die on me completely. I gave the oars a real run-in but my back and backside didn't forgive me for a week! As I also want to use my boat for fishing, I have decided to mount a little outboard both as insurance on light-wind days, and to give me a decent range and traveling speed for those all-day fishing trips. I have pretty much settled on a Tohatsu 3.5 hp 2 stroke. These motors have legendary performance, are very light (13kg or +- 30 lb). According to the specs it should be about ideal for my boat with enough power to move me and a mate, fishing gear and a haul of nice fish ( ) at an acceptable clip without being either over or under powered. Any thoughts?
  13. Hi all, I was just rearranging my music files on my computer and came across this fantastic golden oldie by Little River Band - a great band from the 70's and 80's. It's sure to touch the heart of the dedicated sailor. Just thought I'd share it. http://youtu.be/9bKwRW0l-Qk
  14. Thanks TJ. Yes, I'm very pleased with how she turned out. The Spindrift is everything I was told it would be. I got a chance to get out in some slightly heavier conditions last weekend. I was very impressed with the boat, but not so impressed with my seamanship . I haven't sailed a mono-hull single-handedly before, and I got a bit caught up with the tiller extension in the wrong place a couple of times when tacking. At one stage I almost capsized, but I was impressed with how forgiving the design is. It's a great learner's boat, but she also gets along. At one stage I was doing over 12km/h which I think is not too far below the top hull speed for the Spindrift 11, so I wasn't doing too bad I think. With some experience I wouldn't be surprised if it will do more. I will definitely be installing the andersen bailer though. Trying to bail or sponge in lumpy conditions isn't really practical, and in rough conditions it does ship some water.. Thanks all for your assistance and encouragement. I hope to be back building again before too long .
  15. I am looking for options for a rubberised mat or something similar to apply to the cockpit and high wear areas of my newly built Spindrift 11. I can see the floor is going to get a beating with scratches and dings spoiling my nice pristine boat . What do you guys recommend?
  16. I have just come home from a weekender away with some mates for a fishing trip. I took the Spindrift and got some sailing time in to really get some fine-tuning in. Firstly, the mod I did to the mast collar to deal with a bit of lee-helm worked fine. The boat is now about perfectly balanced in light air, but rounds up in a heavier gust, just as I was hoping. Secondly, the carrying capacity is great. I had myself and another friend and all our camping and fishing gear, food, water etc.on board and the Spindrift took it all in her stride, with no loss of stability at all. I'm going to have heaps of room for the river camping trip I'm planning for later this year. And I was very impressed with the speed and responsiveness in light air. On our return trip across the Coorong estuary here in South Australia, the wind was almost non existent. I resorted to oars for part of the way back, but even a hint of breeze was enough to get us sailing again. I'm loving this boat, and although I've really appreciated getting to know her in light conditions, I'm looking forward to seeing how she handles in slightly heavier conditions.
  17. Thanks Prelude. I found that 2 wraps were enough. It's not hard to add another layer if two isn't enough, but I found that I could get a pretty tight but not over-tight fit with two layers and a light sand down.
  18. Now have a tiller extension fitted. The padeye and snap hook you see on the starboard side is for a simple tiller lock I will try on my next outing.
  19. After some discussion with Graham about my slight lee-helm problem, I decided that the easiest first step would be to extend the mast collar by about 20mm to put some rake in the mast. This has made it possible to have the mast either dead vertical or raked a few degrees aftwards. I had wanted to make the mast adjustable anyway, but just didn't initially, so this was what I did to achieve that: No turning back now! Timber spacers inserted and oversize to allow for some mis-alignment. (I can't drill straight holes by hand to save myself!). Not looking too bad. An extra layer of 6mm ply for extra insurance. And after some sanding and re-applying some undercoat... I tested out the fit and it's pretty good. I just need to make a wedge to secure it whether raked or vertical. If that isn't enough to deal with the lee-helming I will try the other fix that Graham suggested, which is to cut off part of the dagger board to allow it to rake forwards. I also had a bit of a problem with the rudder jamming when I tried to lock it. I discovered that the hole for the adjusting line was a bit too far around and the line was able to slide off the edge of the rudder. I'll try to cure that by making a groove along the edge of the rudder to reduce that likelihood. Pics on that later.
  20. The best way is to post them to a free hosting site like Flickr or Photobucket, and then you can post the link directly into forum posts.
  21. Thanks Graham. I certainly had no trouble tacking and there was no undue rudder pressure, so it's only marginal. I am told that tightening the snotter in heavier wind will often fix lee helm too. I'll try the fixes you suggest and see how it goes then. I can also get another sail made with a slightly different cut to place the CE aft a bit if necessary. Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk
  22. Thanks Bob! Looks like I was going faster than I thought in the light winds. Took me awhile to work out the sail trim and how close I could sail to the wind, and it shows in that first video.
  23. Thanks Bob. It was great to see you there. Next time be dressed for adventure! Nice shots. Waiting to see the videos .
  24. Ah! Just read an article on 'Good Old Boat' website about boat helm-balance. It talks about the tendency of some boats to display lee helm in light conditions with a correction to weather helm in heavier winds. This is because the mast flexes aft as the sail pressure increases and the CE moves aft accordingly. It seems to make some sense. I'll try it in breezier conditions before I make any drastic changes to see if this applies to my boat.
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