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Leo Hill

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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  1. I went to visit grand babies and son & DiL in Sacramento over Thanksgiving. The local paper had a HD ad for this: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100070895&N=10000003+90401 . The kids bought Grandpa this for a combined birthday/Christmas gift. Nice. Thanks. It cost me another $20 to buy a duffle bag of sufficient size to tote the thing home. Nice thought though. So the driver/drill problem is solved. Got the circular saw and the jig saw too. Leo
  2. OK - I've got to ask - this one? http://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-ONE-18V-Starter-Kit/dp/B001C7RTI6/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1223338629&sr=8-1 Or one like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/RYOBI-4PC-18V-LITHIUM-ONE-CORDLESS-COMBO-KIT_W0QQitemZ290265137830QQihZ019QQcategoryZ28057QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem - Recognizing that this particular one is used. Apparently also here: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100596698&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&cm_sp=THD_Marketing-_-toolbox08-_-Products-_-PT-_-100596698_1 Thanks for your input. Leo
  3. Here's the straight scoop on Makita - from a guy that actually works for a tool company - in The Netherlands. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jwbuilders/message/16673 And pasted here: RE: JWBuilders Re: Cordless Driver/Drill - Recommendations Some more info on the Makita machines. The BDF 451 drill is the latest line, at least over here, of machines. they changed back from the plastic drill chucks to metal ones. Improved cooling for the motor and better access to the brushes. Only remember not to make the mistake of covering the end of the machine with your hand whilst working. The engine draws quite a current and gets quite hot. Blocking the cooling can melt the brush holder of an otherwise fine machine. The batteries are of the latest type Lithium-ion. You can read the leaflet for the specifications. They are equipped with a chip which records its life, together with the new type of charger they for a strong team. When put in the charger the later makes up a status of the battery and discharges an recharges the pack in optimum condition. Whilst loading the pack is aircooled by the charger. Further machines using the same battery packs are circular saw - BSS 610 handgrinder - dia 115 - BGA 452 Recipro saw - BJR 118 Sfe sadly at moment no jigsaw for the 18V range but there is one in the 14.4V line. Hope this has helped you out, if not feel free to ask. Regards Wilfried Vermeiren 51 11'44.19"N, 4 30'53.66"E http://users.skynet.be/modelbouw.wilfried
  4. Folks - I'm going to tap another knowledge base with this question... I'm going to 'suggest' a Christmas present to my Mother-in-Law - whom I get along with very well BTW - and I'd like your knowledge and expertise please. Doing some 'honey-dos' over the weekend, my 12+ year old 9.6V Makita cordless drill/driver pooped out. I bought new batteries a couple years ago... but still, its git-up-and-go got-up-and-went. I'm thinking along the lines of a 18V Li-ion drill/driver with a cordless circular saw in the combo. Over the years I've had very good experience with Makita - but my research also suggests Dewalt, Royobi and Bosch are also tough and reliable brands. Perhaps you've had good or bad experiences with these or others that you'd care to share. Thanks for your input. Leo
  5. OK - Just ordered 2 blades - thin kerf and cutoff plus a book. The promotion code doesn't work. But for $123 including shipping - WHAT A DEAL! {Edit: Oops, somehow it missed the cutoff blade. It'll be a tad bit more than the $123...} Only drawback is that the blades are a month out - at least that's the estimated ship date.
  6. OK - I went and read the MAS thread referenced by Greg http://www.messing-about.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4408&highlight=mas here. All of it made some sort of sense to this (nearly) geezer. :roll: Today on ebay there is an ad for this guy - http://www.jgreer.com/index.htm Anyone had any experience with his products? 6 gallons of "generic" @ $40/gal plus shipping. And as Tom Lanthrop said, a few hundred to a thousand dollars difference in the cost of epoxy may be significant to someone planning to build on a tight budget. Opinions please. Best, Leo[/code]
  7. First off - I love the initial design. Next, intended usage? Is this boat going to be an every (or every other) weekend boat that you tow to the launch point and then back home again? I ask because of the total beam. At 8'6" (2590mm) you are indeed at the max legal - without a permit towing width in most states. Some states have a max legal width of 8' (2438mm). But, in all but 3 or 4 states - can't remember exactly which right now - a private individual can to up to about 10'6" (3200mm) wide without a pilot car. Yes, you do have to have overwidth signs, and in some states flashing lights, and yes, you do have to have a permit. The permit as best I could research runs from $25 to $75 depending on the state. And yes, it's usually a one time trip and yes, you need another permit for the return trip. My point? In a boat that is going to be used for a long-ish trip to The Bahamas during the winter - say 2 to 4 months - the boat could easily be towed behind a HD Pickup and the hassle/cost of the trip permits would be but a small part of the overall trip. But if you are intending to frequently tow the boat for quick get-aways, then the hassle of a trip permit each time would outweigh the benefit of that extra 18"-24" of beam. My thinking is that I want a retirement boat in the 9 (29.5') to 9.5 (31') meter range with the beam about 3m (9'10"). Usage would be as before - long-ish trips and not very frequent trailering episodes - say at most 3 round-trips per year. Winter in The Bahamas - Summer in Maine as one example. How about Winter in the Sea of Cortez and Summer in Alaska as another? In my research the only "absolute" that I've found (and it isn't really an absolute as there are ways around this) is the total height on the trailer. Interstate Highway System minimums are set at 13'6" (4114mm). So doing the numbers, I've figured that the total height of the boat, from keel to the highest point when ready to trailer is about 3500mm, (11'6"). That leaves about 600mm (24") for the trailer axles and the trailer frame. That's reasonable if the trailer uses a dropped axle. Not if one specs a straight axle. So Garry, just curious 'ya know, what's this design going to measure out when sitting on a trailer? Best, Leo
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