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powderpark

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    Istanbul, Turkey
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    amateur telescope making / winter sports / tennis / cycling

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    powderpark

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  1. Thanks for your quick & convincing replies. I will build the 34" coaming according to the original drawings.
  2. Hello friends, A month ago, I've purchased Firefly plans and start building soon and my strategy is to make the laminated coaming first. On the plans, the longitudinal dimension for the plywood coaming is 34" and it looked OK for my size (I'm 6' 1" and weigh around # 220), but couldn't be sure for the width to allow comfortable entry (or exit during a capsize) so I've thought to enlarge it slightly, increase the overall width by ~1 inch, which seemed feasible to me, but couldn't be sure with this extra width, coaming would interfere with other members of the frame or worse, would change handling of the boat. You may see the difference between these two 34" versions here. Red line represents the original and green is the modified. Then I've thought maybe the 36" version already has this feature, enabling bigger kayakers would enter and exit to cockpit more easily and decided to ask you, if should I modify the laminated coaming form as in the drawing or should I try to obtain 36" coaming plans and build that one? Regards, Powderpark
  3. Hi again, I have started reviewing my copy of Fuselage Frame Boats and noticed and error: On Page 62, POCO BARTA FRAME OFFSETS (in millimeters) FRAME 5'6" (1676.4 mm) should be corrected as following: X | Y | Z 1676.4 | 0 | 0.25 | 80.9625 | 38.1 | 269.875 | 180.975 | 0 | 206.375 Powderpark
  4. Hi, I was also revieving the book (Fuselage Frame Boats) and encountered a similar problem with Poco Barta offset values. For your problem, here is the author's corrections at this web site: STONE FLY OFFSETS The offsets chart has a formatting error. The X dimensions are in Feet while all the other offsets are in inches. I have listed the dimension that appears in the chart and beside it in parentheses is the foot and inch equivalent. 2=(2'0") 4=(4'0") 5-12/16 = (5'9") 6-12/16 =(6'9") 8-4/16 =(8'4") 10-4/16 =(10'3") 12-4/16 =(12'3")
  5. Thanks for your reply. My motivation for cutting parts with CNC router is first, it is very cheap (around $ 30 / hour) and secondly my workshop's limitations for cutting plywood parts. But I'm aware, eventually I will need to solve this problem as well. For 90 degree internal angle cuts, the diameter of the cutting bit is mostly 4 mm and it will cause a 2 mm radius during the turn. A solution to this might be adding a 4 mm hole to the CAD file to remove this excess section via drilling. Still waiting my copy of the book arrive from Amazon. Regards, Powderpark
  6. Greetings, I've just ordered the book Fuselage Frame Boats: A guide to building skin kayaks and canoes from Amazon.com Later if I can be sure that I may bring the required ingredients together, I will also order some plans. What I want to ask did anyone used CNC router to cut the plywood parts of a kayak? In some YouTube videos, I saw that a jigsaw and a band-saw is being used to cut these. If I can get the plans as DFX files (at least the plywood 'ribs') maybe I can use a CNC router because I have a friend that offers this service. I^ve cut several parts that I^ve designed in CAD application. Do you think this is a good idea and if yes are digital plans available for sale? All the best, Powderpark
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