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Thrillsbe last won the day on May 17

Thrillsbe had the most liked content!

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About Thrillsbe

  • Rank
    Don Silsbe
  • Birthday 12/01/1948

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Tryon, NC
  • Interests
    Boatbuilding, Sailing, Fishing, Rowing, Weaving, Camping, Travel, Fly Tying, Woodworking, Gardening, and Lutheran Theology. (Thank goodness I'm retired!)

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  1. Welcome to the fraternity!
  2. If we all agreed on everything, this forum would be very boring. Differing opinions make us all think. It's a good thing!
  3. It is!!!!!!!
  4. Since my sails are attached with luff sleeves, my snotters go around the mast. This won't work with a sail track, hoewver. If I had a sail track, I would put an eyestrap on either side of the track, aft of a line across the beam of the boat. I'd tie on a short piece of line, a sort of short bridle and not a loop, with stopper knots facing aft. I'd use a double overhand stopper knot ( instead of a figure eight. On my snotter rig, I'd have a soft shacke attaching the snotter block to the bridle. This would eliminate a lot of clanging and scraping that comes with hooks, clips, and unnecessary stainless steel.
  5. Very funny, Amos! If you must mnow, mine has been ordered, and will arrive the end of the month. I even drove my boat up th Chick's place. We put his motor on my transom, just to make sure it fits. Hydro Lock, here I come! LOL
  6. I dunno. Thousands of dinghy racers can't be wrong, can they?
  7. I agree with you about the line wearing on that stamped eye strap. I would have used a formed wire eye strap for this application. (This photo was of someone else's boat at a messabout a couple years ago.). I disagree with you about shear loading. The pop rivets on the mast are under shear load, mostly. Depending on the orientation of the sprit, the cheek block could be under shear or tensile load, or a combination of both. I don't like tensile loading of screws in wood (unless they're thru-bolted), because you're depending on thread engagement to take all the load. A shear load is less apt to fail, I believe. And if the screws of that cheek block are under tensile load, a cheek block is the wrong block for the job!
  8. I meant the pop rivets on the mast, but the same holds true for the cheek block on the sprit. I don't like tensile loading, since you're only relying on thread engagement for retention. With a shear load, you're trying to cut the screw or pop rivet in two like scissors.
  9. Looking good, Chick!
  10. I finally got access to my PC. Heres a photo of it.
  11. I also saw a setup, where there was an eyestrap on either side of the mast, woth a short loop of line going between. The snotter rig had a snap hook on the block. The slight advantage to that is that the load on the eyestrap screws would be in shear instead of tension.
  12. Congratulations, Chick, on being selected the covergirl (coverboat?) for Duckworks Magazine!
  13. The super-fast rig time is one reason I love this rig. I swear that my Wayfarer took a full hour to rig. The only consolation was, at my reservoir in the Appalachian foothills, that people would pull up beside me, and shout "you goin' fishin'?" I would just smile and say "no, I'm goin' SAILING!" I got a nice assortment of confused looks.
  14. Storing the oars are my real bugaboo. I'm still working on that.
  15. My rudder just lays in the bottom of the boat with the tiller attached. (One of these days I'm going to sew up a cover for it.). My sprits also lay in the bottom of the boat, but they get some padding. I bought a large diameter swimming noodle, and cut off four 3" lengths. I stick these on each ends of the sprits. Keeps them from hurting anything and vice versa. Hope that helps.