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CoopOnDaCooper

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  1. Mr. Kudzu (don't feel comfortable calling you Jeff as if I know you, yet... I'm Southern, you understand I'm sure.....) That is one gorgeous boat. I'd love to do a strip-built boat in the future, but think I will have to let that wait for a while, yet...
  2. So sad it's funny: I was offloading the lumber off my truck's rack when I got home. Granted, I wasn't gentle- un-strapped the safety lines and chuck each piece over my head... The 5/4 board fell on the ground and freaking shattered into two pieces. Seriously, there's a cleavage plane as if it was made of rock! Now normally, I am a big fan of cleavage... But in my lumber, notsomuch.... Definitely a good demonstration of the false economy of trying to save a few bucks on materials. Lesson learned!
  3. Mr. Minor: I am quite interested in info on your strongback, but it sounds like advanced woodworking skills are required. Got pics? Sent from my MB886 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
  4. That's EXACTLY the sort of info I was looking for.Thanks. Sounds like PT is fine for the strongback, but I will make this boat out of non-PT, and epoxy-encapsulate. Thank you sir!
  5. Building my first SOF kayak..... I'm sure to make some mistakes, leading me to constructing another boat...and another, quite likely. I am constructing my strongback at present. I bought 3 2X4X12 and 1 5/4X6X12, all Pressure-Treated. I had to do this because it's quite likely my strongback will have to live in the weather. I don't have a garage or storage shed long enough to take it. This will likely be the same fate of the 'yak, as well. All of which leads me to two possible ways to address this. Knowing that cedar is rot resistant, not rot-proof, and no natural wood is rot proof- encapsulate with epoxy, or start with a material that can take exposure to the elements for a good long time in the first place.. pressure-treated wood. Yes, I am aware that SOF construction doesn't need epoxy, is beautiful on it's own merits, etc... and I agree. But if I can use modern materials to supplement this (with the obvious caveat of let's not make it into a moonshot) and increase the durability of the project- why wouldn't I? Obviously the boat will be heavier. A quick google search shows us SYP 2X4X8 is about 1.28lbs/linear foot... so 10-1/4 pounds (10 pounds, 4 ounces) Treated is about 15% heavier. Of course this all depends on species of lumber, etc... Yes, the weight difference will be substantial- about 3 pounds, maybe more. I'm still going to have a darn light boat- and to be blunt, the first thing I need to work on lightening is my arse- and I'm doing that... I won't be able to store the boat indoors ( I live in Charleston, SC, so frost really shouldn't be a concern). I realize that there will be a UV concern with the coating. I'm ok with having to redo the finish now and again (although, I may have a solution to avoid that, too). The point of this is to find out if a SOF is worth doing to a high-end level (all cedar, etc) when it won't be able to be "babied". It'll be strapped to my fence in the back yard (basically, a kayak rack) year round.
  6. I have a background in mechanical drawing, so lofting the boat is no worry, I kinda enjoyed it actually. ;-) Completely willing to buy the coordinates, but I understand if the gentleman doesn't wish to have it out there with possibility of piracy (though to be honest it would be simple to pirate from the kit, unfortunately). Sent from my MB886 using Xparent Green Tapatalk 2
  7. No sir, that wasn't me... thanks for the reply.
  8. Very likely, the other folks were smart enough to realize it, and didn't ask stupid questions. I am new to this, so not afraid to ask the stupid questions....
  9. I have looked through the entire site, can't find the way to buy the Vardo offsets. I get how the construction goes.. I don't need the fullsize printed-out templates. I'd be happy with the list of offsets. NOT asking for them free- I just don't need the crutch of the templates.
  10. Folks - I have everything lofted out, but looking at the FreeB 12 file I downloaded from the kudzu site the other day, line 4 under the bow: X=2 1/16 Y= 8 Z= 4 As the bow runs longitudinally down the boat, all Y values on lines 1-3 and 5-11 ( in other words, all the other coords) Y=0. What's the story there? I went ahead and lofted out the shgape without that line, as the result looked like a workable bow. Am I missing something here?
  11. Does anyone have a copy of these offsets for the 14' boat? I am heavy (240, and losing ) and am not sure the 12 foot will work for me...
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