Panda AntiVirus for SMB and solo-preneurs (affiliate link)

benhardt57

Members
  • Content count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

benhardt57 last won the day on April 3

benhardt57 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About benhardt57

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Troy, NY

Recent Profile Visitors

648 profile views
  1. Beautiful work! And I like that you shared some detail pics too. I only just installed the foot braces on my Short Shot this week. I was torn between the 1" stringer or the 3/4" on which to mount to. I went with the 3/4 as you did. I think it was the best decision for foot positioning. Your coaming looks sweet too! I've been trying to finish mine up so I can start the covering. Soon I hope.
  2. You're getting close to winter there anyway. Enjoy your indoor project! My company has been doing business in Australia for about 5 years and I've been anxiously waiting for my turn to go. Maybe some day. I found a wholesale warehouse that was willing to sell me the plywood. They called it Russian Birch, but I believe it's the same as Baltic. -Ben
  3. The plywood part of the kayak build turned out for me to be a pleasant surprise. I actually struggled to trust it in the beginning, so I left a little more meat on the frames than the templates showed. By the end of the build though, I could tell it was a quality material. And I like the way it smells like Tinker-Toys! 😀
  4. The whole, 'How do I protect my frame against water damage?' issue was one that I struggled with for a while. The problem is, there is no obvious choice. Do I oil it? Do I polyurethane it? I work with a guy who is a boat builder on the side and he says I ought to West epoxy it. There seem to be pros and cons for every method. But eventually I decided to follow Jeff's argument (if I understand correctly) that 99% of the time it will be high and dry and thus, an oiled frame will probably outlast me. Unless your drips will show through the skin (I kinda doubt it) I would just recoat over the top of the first. I know you weren't asking me, but I thought I would chine in anyway. Good luck with it! -Ben
  5. Thanks! It's been a lot of fun so far. The stringers are western red cedar. I bought 1x6s (3/4x5-1/2 actual) rough sawn on one face. It was all perfectly straight and knot-free, but at $3.69/ft seemed a little expensive. I don't buy cedar every day so I really don't know, though. I did a web search for someone to plane them to 5/8". Found a gentleman (around 80yrs old) with woodworking equipment in his basement. We never discussed a price, and he didn't have a lot to say, but he was very meticulous, checking his results with a micrometer! He would feed the boards through and I would grab them and stack them. Each one took four passes. When we finished I asked, "How much do I owe you?". He tried to wave it off and not charge me. After I convinced him I could not in good conscience come back unless I paid him, he agreed to accept my money. Anyway, that will be another of the experiences of this project that produces fond memories for a long time to come. I used red stain on the frame and am still in the process of oiling. I want my fabric paint to resemble a leathery animal skin, along with some dark red accents. I have an idea how to do it, but if anybody knows how to accomplish that look I would love to hear about it. -Ben
  6. It's nice and sunny here. A good day for a Short Shot II FROG.
  7. To Todd: I haven't glued my plywood coaming pieces yet, but I do have the same question as you. Why can it not be drilled and sewn in the same as a laminated coaming? The only reasons that come to mind are the drilling is done essentially into the edges of the plywood causing potential for delaminating (?). Or maybe the drilled holes make the plywood vulnerable to water damage(?). Can you tell us what you ended up doing? To Abyssdncr: I see no drilled holes or stitching on the outside of your coaming. Are you saying you cut a fourth layer and attached it under the skin?
  8. Jeff, Please don't mistake my post for criticism of you or your videos. They are making my build effort much easier! I have gone back and watched some of them more than once. My point was to challenge the community to show us their kayaking experiences. I agree with Dave about it being difficult, but hey, if people put action cameras on surfboards, motorcycles and dogs, why not kayaks? I know long kayak trips could be monotonous to watch, but seeing the highlights would be very cool. In my opinion. More snow in the forecast here on Friday! Yay! Not! I'm hoping to post a FROG soon. Ben
  9. Yeah, I understand how it would be a hassle, but I bet they would get lots of views. I guess the cabin fever is starting to get to me. You can probably relate. Little reminders of warmer days to come help. And spending time on a kayak project does too. 😊
  10. I'm kinda disappointed at how few videos there are to watch of these beautiful boats out on the water. I did a quick internet search and found several water-proof action cameras for 50 bucks or less! Can we get a new folder where folks can post a You-tube link and give some brief details like, boat model and location, maybe length of trip? I would love to see how they perform under various conditions.
  11. A 1/2" drill might be a little tricky, but a 90° countersink does a great job.
  12. I believe it doesn't matter as long as you are consistant. If you measure to the back face of your 2' frame, make sure you measure to the back face on all the other frames too.
  13. My contribution may be common knowledge to woodworking experts, but it's what I came up with about half way through my first kayak frame building experience. When drilling 3/8" lashing holes it really bugged me that they always splintered on the back side regardless of my speed or feed rate. The method I use now takes 3 steps but is worth it to me. (1) Drill a pilot hole about 9/64. (2) Countersink both sides to about 1/2" diameter. (3) Drill through at 3/8". My attached picture shows a 3/8 hole drilled though in one step on the right, and on the left done with countersinking.
  14. I appreciate you guys not leaving me hanging. I was feeling pretty stupid there for a bit. Another question: This picture from the construction manual has a series of what appear to be dimensions at the keel. My assumption is they indicate the amount of slope in the keel but I cannot make them out. I know that the stongback brackets establish the curve for the most part, but my concern is the bow end where it cantilevers beyond the 12' 9" bracket. Am I overthinking this? I want to make sure it doesn't sag.