mitchmellow

The OP's picture looks like the FreeB to me: http://www.kudzucraft.com/web/boat-designs/freeb

Von - I spent two years in the pan handle of Florida while in the military ages ago and you can have the summers. I also have to admit that winter tends to not be as radical as it was 20 years ago when you left. Although some of those who live in the northern regions of the state probably wouldn't agree. Snow for cross country skiing in central Minnesota has become much less dependable and winters seem much more variable.

Thanks to Von for putting definition to the stability numbers and to Jeff for justifying my attraction to the 2n1. Looks like a 2n1 is coming some time. Maybe a start this winter if I can wrap up other projects and find room in the garage for the build without parking outdoors. Winters can be a b***h in Minnesota.

I appreciate the words Andy but she's asking. All 3 boats that I mentioned can also be paddled solo. And there are grandkids coming of age! Plenty of reason for a tandem boat. Recreational only and only short excursions in tandem use. I'm also well aware of the importance of secondary stability. You're singing to the choir. But I also want something that the inexperienced will be comfortable in.

I'm starting the search for a tandem boat that my wife and I can paddle. She is inexperienced and a "tippy" boat scares her. She loves primary stability. I want to stick with Jeff's Kudzu creations. It appears that my choices are the 2n1, the Mayfly canoe and the tandem piroque. On the website, the tandem piroque has a stability factor of 110. The 2n1 has a stability factor of 126 when paddled tandem. The Mayfly does not have a stability factor listed. I am drawn to the 2n1 aesthetically. I'm seeking Jeff's and the collective's wisdom on the question of stability. Specifically, which design would have the most wife assuring primary stabilty? The boat will be paddled recreationally on calm waters in tandem but could also be used solo for fishing.

All the best Jeff!! Take the time you need for a full recovery.

Kudo's Dad!!! Great pictures. Really building memories there.

You mentioned 2 coats. Was the first coat thinned? Allow enough drying time between coats? I used Rustoleum on the only boat I've built. Adhesion was not a problem. I applied 3 coats with the first thinned. I did use different polyester cloth. Your picture makes me think you did not get good adhesion with the first coat.

That is beautiful! Put it upside down on saw horses in your garage. Put a trouble light or the like inside the hull and turn off the lights. You'll be able to see all the pinholes. Then you can make a decision about another coat or some just rolling over the holes. Again, that is a fantastic pain scheme.

If you search this forum you will find numerous discussions of Baltic birch. It has become the gold standard, so to speak. Personally, I think that is primarily due to the structural integrity (number of plies, quality of wood used in the plies and no voids or plugs). I have seen some descriptions of it that specify water proof glue(type 1 phenolic) and others that specify water resistant glue(type 2). I believe that some in this forum have used the water resistant and not had any problems. In reality, the frames seldom spend any time submersed in water and if they are they dry out relatively quickly after the event. In my mind the structural integrity is the more important characteristic. Good luck in your search.

I find it interesting that in the examples shown the bubbling is over the wood stringers. The rest of the fabric looks tight so it doesn't appear to be a general loosening of the fabric. Did both builders use WRC? WRC is known for not having much pitch. However, I have read some descriptions of old growth WRC having "oily extractions", whatever that is. I'm guessing some kind of reaction between the painted fabric and the wood although I have nothing concrete to back that up. It would be interesting to hear what wood Tim E and Abbysdncr used. If the first coat of pain is thinned, could it also adhere the fabric to the wood? Could this be a factor? Tim E did not thin the first coat. What about you Abbysdncr?

No one has mentioned the economy 6 oz. polyester Jeff sells at $3 a foot. I have not used it but I'm sure someone who has will wade in. Jeff has this disclaimer on his site: "DRAWBACKS - We have sold a good bit of this and the feedback we are receiving is the fabric is hard to seal because of the loose weave. After 3 coats of paint there are lots of pin holes so it is taking several coats of paint to seal the weave. Also, the loose weave it harder to work with than other fabrics." Could be a great compromise for the OP.

If you do a search of this forum for paulownia you will find it discussed and/or mentioned a number of times. It appears a number of people have used it successfully.

Sorry. For some reason I can't copy and paste an address here. So here goes: http://www.messing-about.com/forums/topic/8680-heat-shrinking-question/

I built a FreeB 14 and had similar problems around the coaming with the recycled poly. The thread is here: http://www.messing-about.com/forum/topic/8680-heat-shrinking-question/ . You might benefit from calibrating your iron to be sure it is hot enough. Bcone1381 described how to calibrate an iron in the thread. The iron I used was way too cool at a low setting. After getting the iron hot enough I was able to get all the wrinkles out. The only caveat is that the recycled poly really shrinks well.