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PAR last won the day on February 13

PAR had the most liked content!

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About PAR

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    Yacht Designer & Builder
  • Birthday March 20

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    Eustis, Florida

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  1. I don't think the crap comment was directed at your build, so much as material choice decisions, in general. I've used Douglas fir many times and usually regret it, if I have to fair it. For bulkheads that'll get skinned or out of sight partitions, etc., it's fine and inexpensive, but in places it'll get seen, I try to use other species, so the smoothing process isn't as painful. Domestic construction grades are inexpensive, but have their known drawbacks. Weight for strength and stiffness and fairing are the big ones with most building small craft. Since we don't pay ourselves a wage for fairing, this can be discounted to a degree, but the weight/stiffness/strength issue can often make a huge difference. The raw hull to my Sabor design is about 120 pounds in Ocoume and about 150 in Douglas fir. Doesn't seem like much, but it's enough to require 2 more knots of wind to get it up on a sustained plane, which in a performance oriented sailor, can be significant and all because of material choices. Robert, you're a good builder and a valuable contributor. Don't forget this and understand, there's many here that look forward to your posts here and your choices, which are likely similarly in value appraised, to their own build decisions. Your sometimes eclectic approuch is refreshing and inspiring, so keep it up and ignore the voices from behind the curtain. You're just as nuts as the rest of us, though some of us are bright enough to admit it. Keep stroking my friend.
  2. I come across this decision fairly often and I simply ask, how many boats will you paint in the next decade. The client gets the deer in the headlights look and I suggest a basic cost, for a full up spray setup. A good homeowner system will run $1,500 (minimum) and this is a 5 HP Harbor Freight compressor, cheap but pretty good guns, water/oil traps, etc. This can easily top $2K, but this also is the cost of a moderately priced professional job, so if you plan on a few builds and maybe touching up your other half's car too, consider a home built spray booth (can be a temporary arrangement) and modest equipment. You're not going to be able to do production work with this setup, but a dozen boats and/or cars isn't unreasonable, before the compressor takes a dump.
  3. Alex has made a point often unseen by those not involved in accident investigations. I've been involved with a bunch over the years in one capacity or other and the most common reason an incident occurs, is a skipper trying to meet a schedule. The push out into weather they shouldn't, because they need to be someplace at a particular time and the weather isn't cooperating, but they go anyway. Some try to out run a system, for the same reasons, not wanting to lay off for a half day, waiting for it to pass, etc., etc., etc. Compliance and overconfidence are big players too. We lost the Bounty replica to these reasons recently. Mix this into a tight schedule and the sea floor is littered with the results. An experienced skipper can recognize this and makes an appropriate decision, but you do need to have considerable time, farther from shore than you can swim back to.
  4. I think the green is a lighting issue, not PT, though I could be incorrect. Sometimes lighting can really screw with images. I did a boat a few years ago and I mixed a custom color, which was a medium teal. In fact it was 45% medium blue, 45% medium green and 10% white to soften it up, resulting in a beautiful shade of teal, in the sunlight. No matter what I shot it with, digital, film, different film and digital settings, it never looked teal, but either weird green or light/med blue, once the image was processed.
  5. Instead of a flat, ground into the lead edge for the "rope trick", I prefer to use a shallow groove, done with a cove bit, which helps self center the line, as it's being stretched taut around the blade.
  6. Pat is still alive isn't she? Which design are you interested in? This is a problem dealing with dead designers, so unless you have a fair bit of traditional building experence, maybe another choice?
  7. I usually don't use a down haul on my rudders designs, but an up haul to hold it when trailering or in the shallows. Instead of a buried tube, I simply install a sheave. You're just trying to decrease friction, while changing the line's direction, so a sheave is the natural choice for this role. Picture a sheave in place of the tube in the above image, maybe with a bail or fairlead strap to keep the line aligned when slack. If the sheave is sized properly, the tiller pivot bolt can also serve as the sheave pivot. If a down haul was desired, I'd approuch the problem the same way.
  8. I used a router and set of templates to check the work. My board was differently shaped than stock and needed a way to guarantee the sections where the same on both sides. The table saw trick works well on one side, but once flipped it becomes pretty floppy, so I made templates for every 6" along it's length and these were placed on the foil blank, so the router base had something to follow. The foil templates were cut and rested on some rails, positioned fore and aft of the blank. The router was set to plow a flat bottom bit across the foil. Since there was a taper from top to bottom, I thought this more accurate. There's lots of ways to do it, this was just my way. I too ballasted the board, though I buried the weight in the lower leading edge of the board, rather than cut the tip off. The tip idea is better, as it'll take plenty of damage, without much being done to the actual board and dented lead is easy to repair, if not sheathed.
  9. When I was in school, I purchased a TI pocket calculator, which cost an ungodly amount of money. They wouldn't let us use them in class, because not everyone had one, so the slide rule was the deal, like it or not. My first computer experence was a IBM System 3, but I do remember using a buddy's Commodore 64 for a while.
  10. One advantage to not beveling cushions is, they can be flipped side to side if the seating is symmetrical (as mentioned). I use to have a small cruiser where all the cushions were beveled and fitted to their spaces. It use to drive me nuts putting them in their exact locations, as some were nearly the same shape and size, making figuring it out where they lived, without some sort of tag, a pain in the butt. As far as soles are concerned, I dislike carpet of any kind, just a moisture trap. I prefer wooden slats, but some of the "anti-fatigue" mats, like the ones I have on the shop floor look to make nice, inert, soft sole padding.
  11. I've seen Douglas fir check under 6 ounce (200 gsm) cloth, still making ripples and fairing difficult in spite of encapsulation. BS-1088 Okoume is nice stuff, but BS-6566 Meranti is nearly as nice, for a significant price reduction and if electing to use exterior grades, try to find Meranti (lauan) as it's much less likely to check and ripple when smoothed. The advantage of Okoume is it's strength to weight ratio, which in small craft can be notable, particularly if it's performance oriented.
  12. The outer two skins often are slightly thinner than the inner plys, because they are smoothed a touch after assembly, but otherwise a good sheet will have uniform veneers.
  13. I have this discussion around the interweb fairly regularly and the key to getting reliable stuff, is the supplier. Most all the "usual suspects" will have been checked and this is especially true in the last few years, because many took a bath on what they thought was a deal come true. I haven't seen any of the Chinese junk that was pushed around a few years back. In fact, it's been a couple of years since I've actually seen one of these sheets, though I do know that as recent as summer 2015 in Australia, some suppliers were still trying to off load their purchasing miscalculations, on customers (they knew what they had). Find a well known/trusted supplier and consider a coop with other builder(s), so you can get volume price breaks.
  14. Chick's work really needs to be seen in person to appreciate the level of craftsmanship. This isn't his first rodeo, and it plainly shows.
  15. Hey Frank, is there a way to open a thread and go directly to the last post (more recent) or page?