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PAR last won the day on October 4

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    Eustis, Florida

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  1. An other OC20 build !!

    Tests have shown that machine screw threads, actually hold better than the wood screw threads on a hanger bolt, if bonded in epoxy, as the sketch above shows. I do this regularly on hardware and they work well. Make the hole 30% - 40% larger in diameter than the threads of the fastener and it'll grip the crap out of the substrate. If you coat the threads with wax as you insert them, they're removable, with cast in machine threads in the substrate, which is handy come time to rebed the part.
  2. toilet bowl cleaner to clean hull

    Toilet bowl cleaner usually has abrasives in it, which works fine on porcelain, but not so much on gelcoat or paint. To address stains, figure out what it is and use a cleaner intended for that material. Most general surface cleaners, like 409 do a pretty good job. Stubborn stuff that chemicals don't get all of, can usually be buffed out. Once it's clean, use a good bit of wax to protect the surface, so stains are less likely to sink into the coatings.
  3. Sailing the CS17

    There are literally hundreds of quips about sailing these puppies, of course in an equal number of separate threads. Yeah, it would be nice to have an archive for them all in one location, though I wouldn't want to be the one that compiles them. A new "sailing attributes" thread will work, for a while, though eventually it'll get buried in the dozens of other threads that get added, monthly.
  4. An other OC20 build !!

    I dislike wooden (solid or otherwise) pulpits and anchor stowage systems. They tend to be heavy and this isn't a place where you want any excessive weight and they also tend to be rot prone. The ones I've liked best are aluminum tubing and sheet stock, welded and bent to serve their role. They're lighter, much less prone to rot, can be removed easily, etc. I guess it depends on your metal fabrication skills, as many don't like to work metal too much. Aluminum is different, as you can work it with little more than woodworking tools, with appropriate blade changes. It's easy to bend and shape and if you can weld . . . I can weld aluminum, but my welds need a few feet of practice, before they look good, so I let my other half weld it up, she's far superior than me in this regard. If your other half isn't a good welder, any fabrication shop can put one to gether quickly, once you've cut and fitted the pieces. Stainless is even better, though a little heavier, still likely less than wood. The ones I like are a "U" shaped sections of pipe, with rollers, slides and brackets welded in place as needed.
  5. Sailing the CS17

    The more you sail this rig, the handier it will become. Spinning her off a beach, backing her down and the general nature of divided rigs becomes second nature in time and you'll miss it if on a sloop again. The ketch rig in general, is commonly referred to as the "gentleman's rig", because it's so easy to handle in various condisions. Yeah it has its quirks just like any rig choice, but easy to learn and get accustomed to. The cat ketch is no different and has less to worry about with the self vanging feature of sprit booms and the lack of headsail sheets to tend. Graham did a nice job placing the lines of this boat in the pretty nice category. She's stable, comfortable, responsive, relatively fast and capable. This isn't an easy column to hit all the marks in, as a designer. He could have made her faster and more weatherly, but many builders might have found her a little too twitchy or tender or required active hiking to hold her down, build costs would have risen, etc. I think of the Core Sound series is a good raid design, with ample storage, good performance attributes, but not enough to get you into trouble if you're a novice or white knuckle sailor.
  6. An other OC20 build !!

    When I design cabins of any type, I try to get the bottom of the lights/ports at least an inch above the sheer , viewed in profile. I also find it's really important to view the boat, as it would be viewed by anyone that is standing on a floating dock next to her. Try to place an average person's height about a foot above the LWL and take an image of the boat in profile, 3/4 front and 3/4 rear. This is how most will see the boat, so if it looks "right" in this position, it'll look fine once you splashed her. I do agree the 3" rise to the cabin mockup looks better, but the camera angles can be deceiving. It's one of those "eyeball" things and you just have to look at it from as many angles as practical. I also agree, in that jacking it up another few inches, to find the spot that is "too high" is a good idea and will help dial it in.
  7. WRC drying up, alternates?

    There are a few options other than WRC, though most are slightly heavier and denser, which might not be a bad thing, depending on what you're building. I'd think Douglas fir the obvious choice, which is about 10% heavier, though considerably denser. Douglas fir is sold in the big box store as exterior decking and can be found in long, straight grained pieces, usually 4/4th's and 5/4th thicknesses.
  8. Technically a few days is fine, though it depends on what you'll be priming over. If it's a mixed bag of fillers and various thicknesses of epoxy, I'd wait a week, but if everything was top coated with neat goo after the last fillers went down, a couple of days will be fine. The real issue is "print through" which is the fabric weave showing through (film thickness shrinkage) after it's painted. To prevent this, wait a week. If no fabrics were used or you know there's enough material over it (fillers, etc.) then a couple of days will do. Print though can be covered with several coats (and blocking) of high build primer.
  9. Aussie CS 20-3#5 "Dragonfly 2"

    Yep, I've found the upper 2/3's of the mizzen provides effective drive to windward with the windward cant. Typically the mizzen is mostly blanketed, but if you can get it to peek out from behind the main a bit, she does much better. I get a total of 15 degrees of cant and more doesn't seem to help much, but this canoe body I'm using it on likes to sail flat anyway.
  10. I think Chick was what fell down, probably behind the shelves, looking for the other bottle of rum he stashed . . .
  11. Aussie CS 20-3#5 "Dragonfly 2"

    A tongue and cheek reply to Dave's observations on the cat ketch's pointing abilities, where I obviously should have been more clear. I made this upgrade on a conventional ketch of mine, just to see what would happen and I can nearly hang with a sloop and it's far better, than the traditionally proportioned fixed ketch rig. On small craft such as the Lapwing of Dave's, it's not a major revision, though does add some complication. I use a cordless drill to move mine, though originally used a 3 part tackle.
  12. Aussie CS 20-3#5 "Dragonfly 2"

    A canting mizzen Dave. A cordless drill, some allthread and a curved track at the heel of the mast . . .
  13. An other OC20 build !!

    I bet you noticed that the extra weight, of the thicker material came in handy when you got the bend started (it almost falls into place, once you hit the right temperature). Looks great, I don't see any distortions at all.
  14. water in CS17 mast

    All masts ned a weep hole or two. Leave it open, so condensation can escape. Any enclosed space will cause condensation to collect inside it, so it needs to have an escape route.
  15. Bumps in awlgrip topcoat

    Lay on enough paint so you can aggressively wet sand it down to a fine luster. I usually figure a whole coat will get ground off, putting a fine gloss on with paper and eventually with the buffer. Next time, spend some time thinking about the tent and use filtered air and a box fan to supply it. I usually place it to suck the air through the filter and blow out of the tented space. I also use a double flap door, that can be taped closed, so only filtered air enters the booth. In other words, a furnace filter at one end and a fan at the opposite. Make the filter size at least twice the area of the fan.