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PAR

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About PAR

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    Yacht Designer & Builder
  • Birthday March 20

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  1. Not in this case, but there are several countersink angles you need to consider, for good fits. I learned this the hard way and the most common is the 82 degree countersink, followed by the 90 degree. SAE wood screws are 82, while metric are 90. Machine and sheet metal screws are 90. Most all stainless screws are actually sheet metal, not wood (threads all the way up the shank) and are 90 degrees. Also, some stainless screws can be 100 degrees, particularly in smaller sizes (#10 and down). For a lasing hole, not a big deal, but other stuff something to think about.
  2. I did as Don did and plowed out a shallow rectangle for the bailer to live in, on the inside of the planking. Seemed the less draggy way to do it.
  3. Much of that (low spots) appear to be still susceptible to more sanding. Take the long board to it again and see how much more you can get, before needing to apply more filler. Also consider a box fan, strategically placed downstream of your work area. It'll remove much of what you're wearing and if ducted, can vent it outside. I have a dedicated fan with a 20" corrugated tube for just this type of thing. Place it as close to the work as possible. I usually hit the duct with the sander, as I'm working, that's how close I rig it up. Novices performing fairing operations, often try to make a career out of the process. You can go up and down the hull several times and still find spots that need attention. At some point, you'll just have to accept what you're elbows are willing to tolerate. I'm aggressive with the first long board pass, really knocking down highs and flattening areas. The next pass is made to knock down the filler, over the just filled lows. The last pass usually has the lows filled and leveled and is a fine tuning of the whole surface, with some special emphasis on the chine radius and other special areas. It's not unusual to need some pinhole filling after this stage, but this is generally local work on specific spots. You'll get it, just keep stroking (literally).
  4. Xynol for abrasion resistance on the outside, with Kevlar on the inside for best location of penatration resistance. Xynol is a lot of weight to add to a small boat, but very effective. Kevlar is always best if on the side fartherest from intial impact. On lapstrake boats I always cover the bottom up to the garboard/broad lap joint with fabric. It's the onlt way to effectivly protect the bottom and garboartds. Wrapping the laps further up, is exstremely difficult and not practical.
  5. It's up to you and I've seen worse, though that is pretty bad. It's an easy fairing job, but you'll need to grind down to unmolested material, apply some fairing compound, sand until your elbows complain, then prep for paint again.
  6. Yeah, it happens and there are common errors that affect carpentry. A famous one that gets me frequently enough to force me to double check, is reading the tape measure on the wrong side. Let's say you need a board cut a 66 1/2", so you pull the tape out from right to left and read the tape upside down. No big deal, but it's really easy to put a tick mark at 65 1/2", because you've ticked on the right side of the 66" mark as you naturally do, but the tape is upside down, so it's actually 65 1/2". You'll recognize this mistake when things are exactly an inch off.
  7. Without pictures it's a tough call, but generally you don't want to fair things over paint. Sand down until just through the primer and level the seam tape areas.
  8. Boat names are a personal thing and everyone uses different ways to come up with them. I use many different methods. Some just feel right, because of the boat's look or features, while others I simply adopt the client name or what they called the first launched boat. This is a common one for me. Others are what family members think it should be called, while others yet are simply a made up word or a word from a different language with a significant meaning. The unfairness in your stringer looks to be too much pressure just after a "hard point", which will produce that sort of kink. Rather than placing your straps or bungee cords before or after the hard point (frames, bulkheads, etc.), place them directly over the hard point, so the stock can adopt the natural curve it wants to.
  9. Chick, have you used the standard oar length formula? I know of a couple (actually several) formulas, some I like better than others. One has you divide the distance between the sockets then add 2". Next multiply by 25, then divide this number by 7, which will give you the oar length in inches. So, let's say the socket distance is 72", divided by two and you get 36", plus 2" and you're at 38". Times 25 equals 950", lastly divided by seven and you get 135.7", which I think is a bit long. The other popular one is half the distance between the sockets, times 3, plus 6" (add 6" more for oar grip overlap, if you like that). This formula on a 72" socket distance is a 114'" oar, which sounds better. Another formula is simply adding 2' to the beam of the boat at the locks, which brings you to an 8' oar on a 6' beam and about the same as the second one I mentioned. This means a CS-20 would like an 8' oar, though I think this might be a little short, so maybe a 8' 6" or 9' would be better. A CS-20 MK3 would like a 9' or 9' 6" oar, possibly a 10' given her freeboard would feel better.
  10. An 1/8" gap on either side is fine, though much bigger and you could expect some humming, without a slot flap.
  11. A cat ketch is at a disadvantage uphill and though you can tack a wee bit faster with some practice on this rig, you're just not going to be as high, so you'd get clobbered to the mark.
  12. The greats in society always seem to gravitate to the same places in life . . . Spirit is a lovely thing. I wouldn't change a thing about her. The one thing I've found amazing about social media, is how truly small the word actually is.
  13. There are a number of ways to skin this cat. I was having a similar issue when I did the skeg, so I elected to scribe the profile and fit a filler piece, which I found faster and easier. I wouldn't worry about gaps, though I would grind down bumps to eliminate as many as practical. You do need to make a decision about bedding or bonding the skeg. The two are different and one doesn't need the other, if it's glued. I like to think about repairs and replaceability, so I went my way, but you may have different ideas or needs. Both a bedded or glued skeg can work just fine. Once the decision is made, you methods are the same. If you do glue it down, yep, watching for too much ooze out, from excessive pressure is a good idea. You can very slightly hollow out the underside of the skeg (where it lands on the hull) so there's a place for the goo to live, when bent into position. You also don't need fasteners, if you're gluing it down. Some weights will hold it in place until the goo cures. Rachet straps, Spanish windlass, even duct tape will do. Don't use drywall/sheetrock screws as temporary fasteners. These will just piss you off, when you break them in the work. Use "deck screws" which are often coated gray. Also "tech" screws are handy to have a round too, with their button heads and point options. Both of these are much stronger and though slightly more costly, you can trust them to not break and they can be reused, repeatedly. I've found the drive type makes little difference if you're not asking too much from the fastener. A stripped out fastener is a pain in the butt, though you knew long before you were going to strip it, maybe because it was too small, you had a lousy drive angle, a rounded over tip, were applying way too much pressure for the size of the fastener, etc., etc., etc. Try to avoid making these mistakes, as soon as you notice you're about to try it anyway. I've caught myself countless times saying to myself, "I'm going to strip this thing". Age has finally taught me to pay attention to this inner voice and stop, rethink and grab a bigger screw. As to which filler, well you're going to need some silica to control viscosity, but I like to add milled fibers to improve elongation and cross link. Cotton flock (404) or a straight silica joint will do too. I dislike pure silica joints, because you can get dramatically weak areas in it, unless carefully mixed and it's more brittle in compression, which is precisely what a skeg will see in an impact. Both 404 and milled fibers are better in this regard, though you'll still need some silica to thicken it up.
  14. The thing I noticed about the CS-17 was it had a fat groove, making keeping her moving well a good bit easier than other boats. I've never sailed the speciality versions of the CS series, but I'll suspect similar qualities. Was the B/L ratio changed on these Graham? WS/SA ratio, etc, compaired to the MK1 CS-17?
  15. Epoxy can increase its viscosity a bit with age, but its performance will remain the same. If it's too heavy bodied to reasonably spread, heat it up a touch. Not much if it's a fast or regular hardener, maybe to 85 (30c) with the fast and 90 (32c) on regular. If it's a slow, which is what I suspect you're using you can go hotter, say 95-100 (35-38c). Remember, this will dramatically speed up working times and gel rates, so work accordingly. Yeah, I've had a lot of trouble with the WR-LPU's and have given up on them. Eventually, they'll figure out a better formulation, but for now, I'm through with them. One trick I found that helped a lot, was to greatly increase the humidity in the paint area. I used a small humidifier, which wasn't good enough, but I suspect wetting the shop floor and running a few humidifiers could have produced better results. I never did figure out a good way to spray the stuff, it was nearly dry a few inches out of the gun. Painting on a really humid day (raining outside) seemed to help too. Lastly, you can buff it up, to get a uniform luster. Depending on how much paint you applied (film thickness) I'd start with a fairly aggressive compound or polish, working up through the fine stuff. This can make a crappy paint job look respectable.