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PAR last won the day on September 16

PAR had the most liked content!

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About PAR

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    Yacht Designer & Builder
  • Birthday March 20

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    Eustis, Florida

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  1. An other OC20 build !!

    Typically the heat (to get the plastic pliable) is 350 f, which felt will tolerate. Felt is now a combination of nylon, acrylic, rayon, polyester, etc., but this is called "craft" grade. Then there's the eco-friendly stuff which is all or most postconsumer stuff. You want the "blended" felt which is wool and rayon. get the 35/65 stuff, not the 20/80 stuff. I'm still fairly sure all the "felts" will tolerate the heat, as they use quite a bit, just to make it.
  2. An other OC20 build !!

    Having made a few windshields, wrap the mold with felt, before tossing the acrylic over it and applying heat. Start in the middle and let gravity do the work. Keep the gun moving, working from the center out, in a spiraling pattern. Do not start and stop from the same edge. Always let the gun run off the edge and come back to the opposite side to apply more heat.
  3. unhappy with durability of paint

    Rustoleum "Topside" paint is a straight alkyd and not very hard, nor very good at abrasion resistance. House paints (acrylics) now tend to be slightly better than the traditional alkyds, if modified. These modified acrylics will have things on the label like; "reinforced", "modified", "poly", etc. before or after the acrylic in the product name or description. Additionally, you can use a "urethane" of some sort, a few are water borne. Acrylic urethane, polyurethane, modified urethane, etc. are the things you'd see on the label. These urethanes are harder, more durable and resist abrasion better, though at the cost of some flexibility.
  4. advice need on towing an OC20

    I find the most useful stuff for a trailer is access and loading related. By access I mean maybe a platform to stand on while rigging or entering/exiting the boat when it's feet are wet. Additionally maybe a ladder on the winch tower, possibly a road box that will remain watertight when backed in, yet can hold lines, mast hoisting stuff, etc. I also think loading guides at both ends of the boat, are very useful. Most know about the aft mounted guides, which ideally should be set an inch or two narrower than the actual width of the boat, where they land on the rail. This causes the guides to very slightly pinch the boat onto the trailer, like a melon seed between your fingers. The forward guides can be like the aft ones and stand straight up. They keep the bow of the boat on the trailer's centerline, which can be tough in cross winds or obnoxious currents. I like the foreward guides to make an "X" shape below the boat, so it catches the bow low, along the centerline and have them angle up (instead of being straight) so they only touch the boat at the rail. I try to tension the aft guides to push the boat forward into the forward guides, so the boat self captures in the guide system. As many centerline rollers as you can reasonably fit is also helpful. Lastly consider a pair of shocks for the trailer. I use to have an old (1950's) vintage trailer, with a typical straight axle, but it was equipped with a set of shocks and this made the boat trailer much better. I've install shocks on many trailers and it's not hard, though some welding is usually necessary.
  5. Utah OB20

    The only fasteners I've seen buried in wood that have survived, are bronze and good stainless, in epoxy. I have removed old galvanized, bright steel and black phorous screws, some also in epoxy, though not as well as a bonded fastener, that rusted. When in doubt, dig it out. A hole saw, with the pilot bit removed can get them out neatly (with some practice), so the hole can simply receive a dowel or repair.
  6. Marissa # 63

    Go to Wal-Mart and buy a 20" box fan and set under the partly closed door. It'll move enough air to make life reasonable.
  7. Utah OB20

    Instead of those quite costly "Kreg" pieces, consider a button head "tech" screw, which are a lot cheaper and made the same way of the same stuff. Deck screws scan be found with square drive, though not as easy to find in the USA.
  8. Irma worries . . .

    Lost power, cable and interweb, around 8:30 Sunday, still out. Some downed trees, fences, etc., but we're okay.
  9. A quick drawing of the bonding technique I use on weather decks, hardware attachments, etc. This is an old trick and includes three separate elements. The first most know, which is to bond fastener holes with epoxy. Just drill a hole, fill with thickened goo, then redrill for the fastener. Taking this one step further, you counter sink the top of the oversize hole used for bonding. If used alone, it places a hard plastic barrier under the fastener head and washer if used. This hardened hole top serves as a bearing surface for the fastener head, instead of surrounding wood. Last is to countersink the now bonded hole and fill this area with caulk as you install the fastener. As the fastener starts to crush the caulk out of the hole, it gets trapped in the countersink, pushing against the sides and forming an "O" ring sort of gasket. I learned this back in the early '80's from a guy now long dead, who knew his stuff.
  10. Yeah they do, which is why one of mine will never build a boat . . .
  11. Irma worries . . .

    Waiting on the next NOAA update, but SCA's are up with occasional gusts to about 35 according to the little weather station on my chimney. I expect Hurricane strength winds in another 5 hours at current pressure drops and storm over ground speed.
  12. I took a belt sander to the boat's centerline and made a flat, though not quite wide enough to place the "skeg" where it need to live. I plumbed up the skeg over a bead of thickened goo and let this setup for a few hours, before going back and backfilling the gaps with a cosmetic filler. The key is getting it straight and plumb, not so much the flat on the centerline.
  13. Marissa # 63

    Come-alongs are possible but a really slow and tedious way of doing it. Consider simple tackle, maybe 4 - 5 part at each end or with some experimenting find the CG point and put it in the middle. Your boat doesn't weigh much at this point.
  14. Marissa # 63

    If I'm seen doing dishes, she automatically asks what I broke, stole or otherwise warranted the transgression and its self imposed punishment. We have to develop these principles, in order to survive. Otherwise they have us over a barrel and the honey do list grows exponentially. You see, as a rule they're usually smarter than us, so we have to be conniving at times, even downright sneaky if necessary, because we can't possibly own all the tools we might need. Think it through, have a back plan (excuse, possibly some graveling and maybe some faux tears, depending on the perceived offence) and never change your story.
  15. Bottom cleaning

    Petit Hydrocoat is an "ablative" style of paint and it's supposed "sluff" off in use, exposing fresh poison to the marine beasties. A light scrub is all it needs to remove scum, which needs to be done fairly regularly if you're not using the boat very much (every couple/few months). A harsh scrubbing will remove a lot of paint, so you have to judge how much left you do have. This paint type is typically renewed annually in the warmer climates and a pressure wash is all it usually takes, unless there's a lot of growth, to remove enough old paint, in prep for a new bottom paint job. I don't think ablative paints are a good choice for those that don't use their boats much. These need to be used regularly, so the paint film can slowly wear away, keeping the poison fresh. When selecting a bottom paint type, ask the local professional fisherman. They'll know what works in your area, better than any paint company rep.