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PAR

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PAR last won the day on July 11

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About PAR

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    Yacht Designer & Builder
  • Birthday March 20

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    Eustis, Florida

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  1. For drilling a prop shaft....

    I saw a cool, home made tool for boring long holes many years ago. It was a regular paddle bit, welded to a length of bar stock and it had a few HDPE cylindrical spacers placed along its length. These spacers fit just ever so loosely into a length of pipe, which was jigged up at the appropriate angle on the deadwood assembly. The pipe kept the spacers square with the axes of the bore and the bit had no choice but to follow. Very clever and simple farm boy engineering.
  2. Cheap paint advice?

    Kerby's is a real straight alkyd and for all practical purposes, so is Rustoleum, though it does have a few things added, nothing that can make it much more than a straight alkyd. It's most important additive is a flow promoter/hardener which helps it "lay down" and maintain a wet edge longer. Brightsides is a modified polyurethane, though similar chemically in some respects to alkyds, certainly a distinctly different formulation. The single part polyurethanes are the second toughest paints available, only bettered by the 2 part LPU's. Both of these are significantly harder than the alkyds.
  3. For drilling a prop shaft....

    It also depends on how you're setting up for this bore. If you'll be eyeballing it, maybe with a length of something to keep you somewhat on plane, the auger is the way to go. On the other hand if you can insure the bore will track true, such as a jig or some sort of boring or drilling machine, any bit will do, though the paddle will be faster and more accurate, if you've drilled an appropriate pilot hole for the point to follow. If you're eyeballing it, drill from both ends and meet in the middle of the bore. No the two holes will not be perfectly aligned, but bit wander will be only half of what it is, compaired to drilling from one side only. Just drill over size and let the mismatch be what it is. On holes more than a foot or so, I like to setup a jig, that holds and aligns the bit as it goes into the work. This can be as simple as a length of wood, with a notch along its length, so the bit can ride in the groove, during the bore. It's propped/braced into position and then the bit dropped in for the big push.
  4. how to post photos

    You can use the "Choose files" button at the bottom of the reply box, which permits you to upload from your hard drive or you can embed it by using the " [ img ] " at the end of the address. Example: The above was displayed with the "[ img ]"at the front of the image address >http :// multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/65026P/high-strength-repair-filler. jpg< and the "[ /img ]" at the end of the image address. To make this print here, I've added some extra space bar hits in the image address and img code. In practice there's no spaces, just the bracketed img or /img test inside them.
  5. CS17 bottom stringers

    I had to go back and pull the plans and some pictures, so now I remember the fore and aft stringers, which in my modified interior furnishings, would have been inside the forward buoyancy chambers. I thought of these as water catchers, so I used 2 layers of 12 ounce biax on the whole area, even using it as the tabbing for the a bulkhead, killing two birds with one set of tabs. I figured this box will be sealed up, except for a 6" deck plate in the seat top, so I didn't bother to do much weave filling or fairing at all inside these boxes. I tried to work neat inside the boxes, with clean edges and overlaps, but little else. In fact, I used a white pigment as the final neat epoxy coating, to make this chamber easier to find things in, if used for storage, because painting it again (at some point), through a 6" deck plate for the sole access, seemed unlikely.
  6. CS17 bottom stringers

    Chick has it and I think he's talking about the diagonal bow reinforcement battens used in the mk1 model. If this is the case Batman, just move them around until the lie down. As Chick mentioned, plywood can only bend in one direction (okay, in theory), so by changing the angle a little, it find its happy place. On my CS-17 build I elected to just reinforce the area with biax (no battens). I use a couple of layers of 12 ounce, covering the whole of the forward bulkhead area, from just above the chine and down. I considered this lighter and neater, than the battens.
  7. An other OC20 build !!

    This method is well known, but isn't light, nor fast. You'll apply twice as much, maybe considerably more fairing compound as normal methods and you'll spend more time sanding too, because you have to do everything twice. It is good for novices, as it's easier to identify lows and highs, but it adds a thin layer of fairing compound to the hull which ideally is sanded away, except in the low spots. In reality, most just leave a continuous coating of thickened goo all over and bring the lows up to the slightly knocked down highs.
  8. Use a countersink on the mounting holes. This provides a place for the bedding to live, after you've tightened things down, instead of just squishing it all out, as it's tightened. It also forms a donut shaped gasket, that surrounds the fastener shank and squeezes it, as the fastener is tightened home. There's plenty of bedding choices (BoatLife, 3M, etc.). On these countersunk holes, I'm assuming you'll have a flat over it, in the form of a piece of hardware.
  9. Repairing a Cracked Frame?

    That looks to be what they now call AA marine (APA grade) which is American made and exclusively Douglas fir or larch. 1/2" plywood will have 5 veneers and the outer veneer is always going to be a little thinner than the internal veneers after it's sanded . It's not very strong for its weight, but does work in some locations. I'd be inclined to fill the voids with some injected goo (unthickened) and pull the pieces back together. When setup, just trace a sister to fit and glue it on. You don't need two of them sandwiching the broken one. I also wouldn't put any screws into it, even temporary ones. They'll just weaken the assembly, so use only enough clamping pressure, to insure the goo has good contact with the faying surfaces and let it cure.
  10. Spindrift 12 build log

    On small boats I usually make a "tipping" cradle. This permits the boat to be rocked from one rail (or nearly so) to the other and greatly improves access to the inside or down hand (position) sanding on the bottom and flanks. The tipping cradle is just like a building cradle, except it has V shaped supports, so she can be flopped over onto one rail. You grab the opposite rail and lift her gently, to lower her to the other side. As seen here during a roll over, the angled supports cobbled together so the boat can flop over. The aft portion of this cradle has a flat on the centerline so it can stop, bolt upright too. The slot in the forward support allowed me to insert a set of wheels, so I could move her around a bit as I worked on her. This is the upside down cradle, but a similar one was also used when she was right side up.
  11. repainting non skid

    3 coats of paint will surely have an effect on the coarseness of the texture. A fairly smooth grit flap wheel seems to do a good job on textured surfaces. If it's just color you want, try thinner coats of paint and bulk up film thickness more slowly, so you can make the judgment call on how much texture lose you can live with.
  12. Aussie CS 20-3#5 "Dragonfly"

    A non-opening port is actually called a light . . .
  13. She is free!

    Well, if it was I might have a plagiarism suit to make . . . I have a fondness of the hard pines and know quite a bit about them, even having a few dozen 60' plus beauties on my property that the other half has named, so I can't cut them down.
  14. She is free!

    Depends on the sub genius to get an accurate weight on the pines, which range from the mid 20's to the mid 40's (pounds per cubic foot). It's basically divided into the hard and soft pine groups. The soft pines are a low density species with uniform grain. The usual suspects, which are very hard to distinguish from each other are: Eastern White, Western White, Sugar and Limber pine. I love eastern white and use a lot of it on small spars. This stuff can be found as low as 25 pounds, but more typically is closer to 27 - 28 pounds. When you get into the hard pines, things get more complex, but generally divided into two distinct groups (which I will not get into). The easy way to tell the difference is first the weight, which can rival some hardwoods, with SYP being 35 to 45 pounds. Visually the grain will not be as uniform and the early/late wood transition will be abrupt, compaired to the gradual soft pine transitions. Shortleaf, Longleaf, Loblolly and Slash pine are the primary Southern Yellow sub genius. There are a few other notables of this sub genius: Spruce, Table Mountain, Pitch, Virginia and Pond pine. These generally are slightly lighter, in the 32 - 38 pound range.
  15. Crew complaints addressed - CS 17

    Yeah, you only need about 1.5 HP to get a CS-17 to hull speed. The rest is just for fun, punching through chop, contrary winds and currents and the like.
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