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PAR

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PAR last won the day on December 2

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About PAR

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    Yacht Designer & Builder
  • Birthday March 20

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    Eustis, Florida

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  1. Most of those solar walkway lights will not project a light the required distance (2 miles) to qualify for an anchor light.
  2. Early 50's Thompson runabout restore

    Post a shot of the end grain . . .
  3. At night if the mast is rotated, more than would look normal, I'd bet the harbor patrol would drive up and ask about it, if someone was in a bad mood. If they do stop, you know they'll find something to give you a ticket for . . .
  4. Early 50's Thompson runabout restore

    What kind of grain; flat sawn, quarter, vertical?
  5. Early 50's Thompson runabout restore

    When bending stock, it's all about stock selection. Avoiding grain run out, defects, using a sheet metal backer as you bend, and green stock helps tremendously. When bending questionable stock (dry, grain run out, etc.) expect 50% breakage in the worst of the aft bilge turn pieces. Even if you use perfect stock, you're going to experence breakage, so have a 10 - 15% over supply of stock (best case). On ribs of those dimensions, you'll get some "bust out" on the outside of the bend (unless quite rift sawn), so back it up with a steel or aluminum strap as it's bent (assuming in place on the boat), to help prevent this occurrence to challenge your inventive cursing techniques. Moisture content is important and soaking helps, but it's the heat that gets the job done, so have a heat gun (a good one) ready, to convince the last bit to go in. Lastly, consider over bending about 10% of the radius in the tighter areas. You'll have some spring back once it's released and relaxes a bit. Placing a 1x2 or 2x4 (or wedges/shims) under the rib as it's bent in, can get this accomplished and use the eyeball method, for the amount of additional bend you might need. On repairs and restorations like this, I usually make adjustable bending jigs, so I can bend them on a bench, rather than fight with them in the boat. This insures I get accurate bends, including spring back and of course makes laminating much easier. Lastly, these puppies are notorious for "tension cracks" in the aft sections of the bilge turn. I almost always laminate these, to avoid them in the future. Contrary to popular opinion, all the oaks epoxy well, once you remove the tannins with a chemical scrub, just prior to applying goo.
  6. Sandpaper

    I too use production rolls, rather than buy a pack of 5 hook and loop disks at the big box store. These are available in several places online, but most importantly of all are quality and the type of cutting agent used in the paper/disk. I switched to cubic Zirconium particulate papers (several years back) and have saved a bunch in the number of belts, pads and sheets I might need, per job. These Zirconium papers cut 5 times as long as aluminum oxide and other particulates. Additionally, spend the money for a quality paper. You can buy dozens of sheets of 80 grit at Harbor Freight for a few bucks, and wear through them in no time. A quality paper will have a backing that can take some heat and abuse and they're less venerable to moisture, because of the backing and adhesives used in manufacturing. Lowe's sells a seemingly costly product called "Shop Smith", in the standard belt and disk sizes. They cost twice as much as the cheap "Gator" products of the same size and grit, but the Zirconium Shop Smith products last 5 times as long, so it's actually a savings in the end. The same applies to wet papers. Buy a good paper, it lasts longer, cuts more uniformly and holds up better. Okay, my rant for the day is over . . .
  7. Early 50's Thompson runabout restore

    I'm glad you noticed this. If I was doing that rebuild I'd have removed the garboard, likely skipped a plank and removed the next, helping retain as much shape as practical. Additionally, when there as bad as I think you have, I'll rip 1/4" (on that size boat) into 8" - 12" wide strips and use these diagonally over the existing planking, again to help hold the boat's shape and stabilize it. I'd also likely build interior frames to push up or pull down on certain areas that seem obviously out of whack. All of this done, before the ribs get removed and replaced. These would be done every other or every third one at a time, also to preserve the shape. The aft most ribs will be the toughest to bend, as that bilge turn on those old sea skiff hulls is tight. The last 1/4 of the hull don't be surprised to break 50% of them if you're not laminating. I've done a number of that style of hull and I usually do laminate, at least the last 1/4, where the turn is tight. Maybe every other one, to save some effort and goo. At midship it gets a lot easier to bend them in as solid stock.
  8. LAWNMOWER ENGINE FOR INBOARD POWER

    I'm not much on long tails, considering them little more than a contrivance, that some have found a nitch market to utilize. I have some sources for small HP FNR transmissions, though they aren't cheap, unless you use the "go cart" crowd stuff. The "Comet" is a common one that can take up to about 25 HP, which satisfies most small engine needs. Under 3 tons usually need 5 - 10 HP to displacement speed and these have worked.
  9. LAWNMOWER ENGINE FOR INBOARD POWER

    I've hand made a few over the years, it's not hard, though debugging takes a while. I think Glen-L sells a set of plans for a small FNR setup too. Most of the small, home made units I've seen just can't handle much power or RPM.
  10. LAWNMOWER ENGINE FOR INBOARD POWER

    I'm not sure who CLP is, but their site hasn't any images of FNR transmissions, no videos, nor any customer reviews, which make one question the company, let alone any product. Can you provide a link to the page?
  11. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    "Fuzzy Butt" . . .
  12. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    "Little Bit", maybe "Kitty Litter" or "Kitten".
  13. unpainted aluminum masts

    Anytime the word epoxy can be used in a product name, you'll sell more. Most of the "epoxy" single parts use elements of the bisphenol A molecule in the formulation, so they can say "epoxy" on the label. The term enamel shouldn't be used with epoxy, as their chemistries aren't compatible, but (again) it's a sales technique. The two part enamels are likely epoxies, but using the enamel product description to improve sales. The "White Knight" stuff looks to be a rebadged, PPG product. I've I were painting an aluminum mast, I'd use a good epoxy (2 part) primer, then over coat with a LPU (first choice) or a hard single part acrylic urethane (second choice) or polyurethane (single part, third choice).
  14. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    That's the same as me Chick, just to many repairs over the years. The bottom and sides of these foam "blocks" get channels carved into them, once the plastic sheeting is peeled off. Centerline channels, also athwartship ones to let moisture drain down the flanks into the centerline channel, etc. are what I focus on, then seal it up with epoxy. Cutting glued together blocks work will too, though a lot more fitting and shaving compaired to a form fitting pour in process, probably just as effective I'd imagine. In these enclosed spaces, condensation will form, it's unavoidable, so the moisture has to go somewhere. My method just provides a path to the pump(s), while sealing up the foam.
  15. Ocracoke 24, Lucky#13

    What I like to do is lightly spray the foamed areas with spray adhesive. Not much, just a dusting so the next part will stick, which is lining the area with "visqueen" (plastic sheeting). I use spacers in the waterways and limbers and drape the plastic into the stickum, pulling out wrinkles as I go. With the area "buttered up" with plastic sheeting, I pour the foam and let it cure. Then I use a squirt bottle of lacquer thinner and release the plastic sheeting, with it's oozed out foam blob, from the spaces. The spray adhesive comes off easily and the plastic protected foam just lifts out as a block. Peel off the sheeting and you have a form fit foam block, that can be shaped with more water ways or simply dropped or glued back in position. Often I don't glue the blocks back in, simply hiding them under the sole (dry) once it's bonded down. I do this to limit the amount of foam in intimate contact with the wood and provided channels for moisture to fall down to the lowest portions of the bilge to be drained and pumped out. Additionally, if the foam is to remain enclosed or entombed forever, I like it to be sealed (neat epoxy) then glued or placed in it's hole/compartment. I've dug out way too much soaked foam over the years to think it's not going to absorb much and the intimate contact thing has me dreaming about future rot issues.
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