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PAR

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PAR last won the day on May 19

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About PAR

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    Yacht Designer & Builder
  • Birthday March 20

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    Eustis, Florida

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  1. I'm not sure how your screws were installed, nor sure how important this is now that they're gone. Grind back all around the tabbing areas, so you can bond to unpainted surfaces. Technically you don't need fasteners, as the goo and fabrics are more than enough for the loads imposed.
  2. The paints you have to worry about not sticking well to epoxy are the alkyds. Some of the polyurethanes are also alkyd based, but I haven't seen any with this issue. This issues only comes up when you apply topcoat over epoxied surfaces, without a primer. In days of old, there was a product called a "tie coat" which was a special primer, sometimes application specific, such as an aluminum etch. Now, most primers (except on some surfaces) includes enough "stuff" to insure it'll permit the topcoat to stay stuck. It would be exceedingly rare for me to not use a primer of some sort. I've had too many issues when I tried to skip this step. Primers stick better to the top coats, than if using just a straight top coat over whatever. If painting over well toothed epoxy, use a polyurethane or an acrylic, to avoid finding out about the compatibility issue. I don't recommend painting directly over epoxy with alkyds, but most do stick, just not as well as applied over a primer and some (a few) just don't stick, cure or get fully hard. There's no way of telling which brand or formulation will have this issue, until you're pulling sheets of barely cured paint off the epoxy a week later or long after it should have been dry.
  3. This seems a lot of work and money for a rub strip that could be pounded out of 3/4" wide1/16" bar stock. It takes a lot of light taps, but with time and the willingness to not get the curve in a few swats, you can "talk" aluminum around that stem with a mallet. I don't much like the tube idea with a varying radius, as it'll get bigger and smaller as the radius changes, not to mention the "wheel" work necessary to get a tube to the stem shape.
  4. I've been recommending single part polyurethanes for novice and backyard painters for a long time. The LPU's can offer better finishes, but cost more and are more difficult to apply in the typical condisions, found in the average builder's garage.
  5. 50 sq. ft. of coverage, per coat per quart is a good average. Some paints a little more, others less. Primers tend to need more on the initial coats and top coats seem to need less, on subsequent coats after the first is down.
  6. If you're not sure if to sand or leave it, just take a rattle can of cheap lacquer based high gloss paint and lightly coat the areas in question. The high gloss will reveal the "real" look and you can decide if you can live with it. The paint is easily and quickly removed with some thinner and you're on your way to more sanding or calling it a done deal. To be honest, it's these seams and tape edges that define the novices from the pros and the very first thing that'll catch your eye, from nearly any distance. I find I focus on the areas that will be regularly seen and less so, on the inside of cabinets, lockers, etc. In a cockpit locker, that will be used a lot for fenders, gear, etc., I'll smooth up these seams, but under aft decks, "away" side of bulkheads, etc., where visibility is limited and occasional, maybe a just a quick smear of fairing compound, with an emphasis on being neat, to minimize sanding is all it'l get. In the end you want to finish the boat to some degree and fairing just sucks and eats time. You can always go back and fix screwups or make changes and adjustments to the finishes, so get it close, splash the puppy and see how much you can "change your models" in terms of fairing and finishing.
  7. I can mail you a set of male/female termites, well trained to eat only "inside the lines" just like you were told, with your first coloring book, Chick. Admittedly the male is much better than the female, who proved to be more of a dominatrix and drama queen, though still trainable. This picture was taken before I'd finished with my termite team, but as you can see they're efficient.
  8. I believe you're over thinking this a bit. Bunks will support the boat's weight just fine, without the need for an aft centerline roller. More importantly is how the trailer is setup, for tongue weight, loading and balance. That trailer look like it's axle carriage can slide forward, which you should do, as far as practical, to get the boat more closely centered on the trailer and limit aft overhang. A couple of rollers forward is a good idea, but loading guides are going to be your real friend at the ramp. I like to use two sets of loading guides, a set forward, to keep the bow on the trailer's centerline and the vertical rear mounted poles, that keep her butt centered, when loading.
  9. Some judicious use of a Forstner bit and a depth stop, can lighten the crap out of those rails and other parts, without being visible. I cut lightening holes in everything, almost getting anal about it. It's a bit like discovering what you can do with a dimple die, when you're welding up a race car. It turns into Swiss cheese, but it's lighter without losing much strength or stiffness. Well placed lightening holes do the same thing a few ounces at a time.
  10. Wrapping your clamps (and tools) with plastic packageing tape can avoid a lot of goo chipping later. This can leave adhesive gum on them, when you remove the tape, but spirits can remove it easily enough. A plastic bag taped to your cordless drill, is a big help too.
  11. I make a reefing block/cleat, that if rigged properly offers a 2:1 advantage on the line, which is darn helpful in building wind strengths. It's a wooden body cheek block with a cleat horn on one end. I'll see if I can find a picture.
  12. Forcing loaded line to make that turn, around that ring will prove very hard on the line, not to mention dramatically increase friction. You need a cheek block, which can be had with curved or flat backs. I make my own for this sort of thing, but there are several small cheek blocks available for not much money.
  13. Most fabric manufactures have their own system to ID the various fabrics, though some commonalities exist, such as with "combo" fabrics like 1708. This is a 17 ounce fabric that's lightly bonded to 8 ounce mat. 1800 suggests it a straight 18 ounce fabric. There are different types of fabrics too, just to add to the confusion, such as weave type, fiber orientation, etc. Generally, these fabrics fall into a few different categories: mat, woven cloth (like the material in your tee shirt), directional fabrics and combo fabrics (more than one fabric in the same roll). These get broken down into specifics, such as weight, fiber orientation, etc. http://www.diy-fiberglass-boat-repair.com/ http://www.shopmaninc.com/fiberglass.html Download the free "user's guides" from westsystem.com, the "epoxy book" from system three.com and the "boatbuilding handbook" from westsystem.com for a more comprehensive listing.
  14. For short distances, just lashing the spars together will do, but for longer distances, you'll want some padding and things need to be well dogged and tidy, or it'll beat the finishes to death quickly (less than a few dozen high speed miles). For temporary trips, wrap the spars with this stuff, which is cheap, on a roll, waterproof and easy to apply, with packaging tape. This stuff is available at the big box store and is about 3.5" wide. The image below shows it's use. This boat travel about 120 miles with no damage. You can see the tape is applied over the foam, so it doesn't stick to the finishes. For more long term approaches, you'll want more serious padding, like indoor/outdoor carpeting, which I don't like that much, because it's so abrasive. Leather is a traditional choice and works well, but has it's issues too. The real key is a well thought out set of "chocks" to support all of the spars and other stuff, like the rudder. The rudder on this boat was carried in the truck. An ideal chock design will suspend the spars, so they can't touch each other, but most tend to band them together tightly, which I find causes abrasion which scuffs things. FWIW . . .
  15. You do realize with this level of craftsmanship, the kitchen remodel that's on her mind, will need to be more and more elaborate and expectations much higher. Show her a few hammer bruises and broken setup screws, in a likely vain attempt to save the day.