I swear you have the elves that I have been praying for to come in at night and do the work!!!!!
Your elves do excellent work.
Extremely nice fore thought and craftsmanship. Looking forward to the launching
You will absolutely love the bracket. I'm glad you added that. Armstrong brackets are great but it is not if they will corrode but how soon.
Real nice work.
My friend has an 8 meter sailboat with teak covering boards. We put the Awlwood on 2 years ago. The boat is raced so the covering board have some damage to the finish. We repaired the finish at the end of the season. The teak had not turned yet. We repaired it as you would regular varnish with sanding back and build up layer etc. It repaired wonderfully. I would not waste time on repairing a ding this Awlwood is very hard to remove.
One other item to pay attention to is carbon fiber unless oriented correctly does not like to go around corners. You may want to dry fit first and be sure the cloth will lay flat. There isn't enough resin in the world that will hold the cloth down. It has a mind of its own
My 2 cents
One other thing. When the boat sells someday and the surveyor puts his meter on the hull the meter will read off the chart. The carbon fiber is conductive thus triggering the meter. Keep good records to show the construction method.
I used the Awl Grip product called Awl Wood. This image has just three coats. One prime, I used the clear primer, and two finish. That sealed it until the rest of the painting was completed. Then 7 more coats. You can do 2 coats a day with light sanding in between. The say 8 years on a vertical surface. I hope so. It is hard as nails after it fully cures.
They are QL trim tabs made by Volvo. They are fantastic. Less drag electric so no oil. They react quickly. I have seen these on many boats . When they first came out there were some issues but they are much better now. You can get a module that will keep the boat in perfect pitch automatically. I am asking Santa for the module.
Yes indeed Graham will help you. I cut through the transom and attached the "beams" to the stringers and first bulkhead. The trick is allow enough buoyancy in the tank to support the weight of the motor moving back 30". The tank is tapered upward 2" per foot.
Graham has all the calculations. I added the diagonal braces and just glued them to the transom. Be sure to allow for your trim tabs and deck drains. More work put it never blisters. It added a month of elapsed time but it was well worth it. I also incorporated the fender rail into to it for a very slick look.
The Armstrong bracket will work just fine but I like the seamless look into the fender rail.
The sea in the back is the best part