Jump to content
Malwarebytes Endpoint Security
Advanced endpoint protection (affiliate link).

Dnjost

Members
  • Content count

    348
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    10

Dnjost last won the day on June 14 2016

Dnjost had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

14 Good

About Dnjost

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling

Recent Profile Visitors

4,376 profile views
  1. Tohatsu 3.5 hp longshaft . .

    Tohatsu has recalled many of the 3.5's manufactured in recent years due to a fuel pump issue. http://www.tohatsu.com/tech_info/25-35fuelpumpcampaign.html
  2. Rigging the Mizzen Sprit

    The ring on the shock cord has worked well on all points of sail, and in all winds, so far. No more sailing this year in New England.
  3. Tohatsu 3.5 hp longshaft . .

    I'm all ears. Anxiously waiting for your report. My 3.5 is cranky as heck. It's been "ok" with a new carb, but still has a flat spot when accelerating. Using nothing but Truefuel now.
  4. Sailing the CS17

    So far, with the caveat being that I haven't had enough on water time as I would like with my boat, I have discovered that going from full sail to 1st reef isn't too bad as I set up the reefing lines to the downhauls prior to leaving the dock. I do the main first by loosening the snotter, lowering the sail a bit, pull the new downhaul tight, move the sprit to the new tab, raise sail. Tack, then repeat with the mizzen on the opposite tack. The biggest issue is for when I need to go to that 2nd reef. By the time it's needed, it's usually getting pretty wild and moving the sprits to the 2nd tab on the main involves some skipper footwork and balance, as well as moving the downhaul to the third position on the sail. I have only done this in practice of winds between 15-20 in anticipation of increasing winds (reef before you need to learned from sailing Cape Cod catboats), but not when it is actually needed. When sailing with crew, this isn't too bad, but sailing solo I have found it challenging, yet doable. I still have some lines to move around on the mizzen to make it more practical. My Off season project is to install slab reefing on the sprits, and add 2nd reef hooks for downhauls. More spaghetti, but this would make the process safer and quicker. Love these boats with all the spaghetti. There is nothing like looking at the smiling faces of the crew as I blast across a 2' deep sandbar going full blast under reefed sail with the board up. Paul is right, keep the boat flat. Flat is fast. Nantucket sleigh rides rule. Any suggestions for making this easier are welcome. Photos coming.
  5. Core Sound 17 Questions

    I would love to see photos of slab reefing rigging. I currently lower the sail a little, haul on the new downhaul (put on prior to leaving the dock, then move the sprit to the next loop up. This works fine on the mizzen, but when single handling, it makes for quite a show with the main. It would be so nice to lower the main, haul on the outhaul, downhaul, re-raise. No messing with the sprit.
  6. Core Sound 17 Questions

    I forgot about your mast question. I built mine of aluminum according to the specs on the plans supplied by Graham. They are easily handled by this almost 61 year old guy. The balance point is right at the lower section joint. I was thinking that putting a little lead weight in the heels would make it even easier, but would add difficulty to de-rigging. I have never used the third mast hole, as I have two reef points. slab reefing will be the next project. Happy sailing, David Jost Massachusetts
  7. Core Sound 17 Questions

    Just got off the water a couple of hours ago. Here is a photo of my uphaul. It goes to a cleat on the top of the tiller, next to the cleat for the downhaul.
  8. 2.5 HP Suzuki

    Similar issues with my 4hp Tohatsu. Changing the rake a little by moving the motor pin solved the "problem". I have switched to using non-ethanol gas sold at the big box stores and have had much better reliability. Since the CS 17 sails so well, a gallon seems be lasting about a season.
  9. Thanks for sharing. I am still relatively new to sailing my CS17, and I know I could rig it quicker with more practice and less line tangling. This is an excellent idea. I always leave a float plan with loved ones or neighbors. Rigging time is about 20 minutes. De-rigging about 15 min. Maybe someday I'll move up to the 20. But for now, 17 suits my needs and time.
  10. Ocracoke 256 #3

    Wow. Gorgeous boat. Congratulations.
  11. CS17 bottom stringers

    This is bringing back memories. I used 5/4 douglas fir for mine, and cut the orientation of the grain so it would bend easier. I used temporary drywall screws to hold them down as the epoxy putty set. Paul has the idea, skip them entirely and do a layup of a couple layers of 12 oz. biaxial cloth set in epoxy. It will give you another inch of space under the forward seating area, and make it easier to keep clean, and also still serve to support the thinner ply at the bend of the hull.
  12. Crew complaints addressed - CS 17

    Some photos of our motoring trip for blueberries. 2.5 hp would have sufficed.
  13. Crew complaints addressed - CS 17

    Thanks, I did consider the flat seat option, but opted for this solution. The double layer of coaming material would have helped. Too late. I may still add another layer of 1/4" to build up the deck a bit, as it seems that is where we wind up sitting most of the time. I will sail with it this season, then modify later. Adding forward row station is next, which will involve moving all the cleats. Yesterday, we motored out on a nearby lake to pick blueberries off the islands. My elbows appreciate the modifications. FYI - 6.5 kts with the 4hp Tohatsu at both full throttle, and half throttle. Interesting.
  14. I finally got around to addressing some of the crew complaints on my CS 17. They complained about how the coaming was uncomfortable to sit on, and that it hurt when elbows banged against it. So, the coaming is now cut flush from a point 13" at the front of the cockpit, to a point 8" before the stern of the cockpit. Deflectors are being installed Port and Starboard at these points to help the drips make it off the deck to overboard. Lines will run under these. More photos coming. I would like to add hiking straps to the forward area, but can't figure out how to do this and still have the centreboard lines still operate well. Anyone with photos, it would be appreciated. I did find Dave's photos of the stern area with a strap. This will be a nice addition, now the it is more tempting to hike.
  15. Trailer for Core Sound 17

    I have a Karavan with an extra long tongue for my CS 17. It works very well. The longer tongue helps visibility at the ramp, and helps keep the car dry. I find it much easier to back up than the shorter ones. The biggest thing for me was to get proper tongue weight to keep the trailer from doing goofy things on the highway. More weight is better than less I have found (but not so heavy I can't pick it up).
×