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Dnjost

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Dnjost last won the day on June 14 2016

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About Dnjost

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  1. CS17 bottom stringers

    This is bringing back memories. I used 5/4 douglas fir for mine, and cut the orientation of the grain so it would bend easier. I used temporary drywall screws to hold them down as the epoxy putty set. Paul has the idea, skip them entirely and do a layup of a couple layers of 12 oz. biaxial cloth set in epoxy. It will give you another inch of space under the forward seating area, and make it easier to keep clean, and also still serve to support the thinner ply at the bend of the hull.
  2. Crew complaints addressed - CS 17

    Some photos of our motoring trip for blueberries. 2.5 hp would have sufficed.
  3. Crew complaints addressed - CS 17

    Thanks, I did consider the flat seat option, but opted for this solution. The double layer of coaming material would have helped. Too late. I may still add another layer of 1/4" to build up the deck a bit, as it seems that is where we wind up sitting most of the time. I will sail with it this season, then modify later. Adding forward row station is next, which will involve moving all the cleats. Yesterday, we motored out on a nearby lake to pick blueberries off the islands. My elbows appreciate the modifications. FYI - 6.5 kts with the 4hp Tohatsu at both full throttle, and half throttle. Interesting.
  4. I finally got around to addressing some of the crew complaints on my CS 17. They complained about how the coaming was uncomfortable to sit on, and that it hurt when elbows banged against it. So, the coaming is now cut flush from a point 13" at the front of the cockpit, to a point 8" before the stern of the cockpit. Deflectors are being installed Port and Starboard at these points to help the drips make it off the deck to overboard. Lines will run under these. More photos coming. I would like to add hiking straps to the forward area, but can't figure out how to do this and still have the centreboard lines still operate well. Anyone with photos, it would be appreciated. I did find Dave's photos of the stern area with a strap. This will be a nice addition, now the it is more tempting to hike.
  5. Trailer for Core Sound 17

    I have a Karavan with an extra long tongue for my CS 17. It works very well. The longer tongue helps visibility at the ramp, and helps keep the car dry. I find it much easier to back up than the shorter ones. The biggest thing for me was to get proper tongue weight to keep the trailer from doing goofy things on the highway. More weight is better than less I have found (but not so heavy I can't pick it up).
  6. Securing equipment for travel

    Not the greatest answer here, but I have a few hundred road miles under my wheels with the boat now. So, here is how I do it: masts are stored on deck resting on seat cushions that are tied down to the boat (Ilost one once on the highway). rags are wrapped around the masts to keep them from banging together. Mast is tied to stern and bow cleats with no stretch line. mizzen sprit is left connected to mizzen sheet and laid on the port seat. Main sprit is left connected to main sheet and laid on the starboard seat. Sails are stuffed in bow compartment. Oars tied down to seats motor left on stern tiller is put under starboard side of thwart with the blade sitting in the cockpit. bailer open if it is raining. Rigging time to launch is about 20 minutes from arrival at the ramp. Be careful with how where the snotter, downhaul, and main halyard lines are when stepping the mast, as this is where I find I lose most of the time rerouting everything. I have dreams of making official mast carrying supports from 1X3, carpet, and plywood. But, it has not been a priority. Good luck. David
  7. I built my sprits to the plans, but found them too short once the sails arrived. I just tested my new, longer sprits and it does look like the sail will set better in heavier airs for when I want to flatten the sail.
  8. Spindrift 9N build #1174

    Checking hull twist can be tricky. A simple tool is to lay long straightedges fore and aft and sighting from a few feet back to look at the gap left and right between the boards.
  9. Centerboard trunk

    Paul beat me to the punch here. I have the Makita multi tool. With one of these, just about anything is possible with good blades. Remove the thwart, and see how far you can get. Even if you make the hole for the CB trunk a little oversized you can set the new one in, and then fill with putty and glass around it.
  10. While I did not switch to the new sail track, I had a similar issue in that both my sprits were a tad too short. I put the main on the mizzen (straight swap, no cutting) and made a new main sprit. Test sail will be next week. I will send photos and reports.
  11. CS 17

    I also use a Karavan for my CS17, I have the long tongue, that is very helpful Launching, retrieving, and backing up!
  12. Cockpit canvas camper CS 17

    What keeps the bugs from flying under the tent and into the sleeping compartment? Quite a cool concept!
  13. advice on stock for sprit

    I too, laminated the sprits from two pieces of fir decking material. As I made the originals too short, I now have 3 sprits (the original mizzen sprit to soon become an oar, as the original main is now the mizzen sprit). Different colors on the ends of the sprits is a brilliant idea. The only wood I would treat with epoxy would be Okoume, the Doug Fir will be happy without it and your life will be simpler.
  14. Andersen Bailer CS17

    Here are the photos. Apologies for the leaves, sticks, and twigs that are in the boat. Seems they tend to gather right near the bailer... Hoping to get the cover off next week, barring another snow storm, and giving the boat a good vacuuming. I put a layer of glass on the flange of plywood, and sealed the plywood edges with epoxy prior to mounting the bailer. The sealant is Boatlife polysulphide sealant. I use it on anything below the waterline that I may want to take apart again. Good luck.
  15. Andersen Bailer CS17

    When it stops raining and snowing, I will post some photos of my install. Similar to others in that it is flush with the hull on the outside. I purchased a cheap palm router from Harbor Freight to carve a rectangular depression in which it sits flush with the hull, plus a little extra for epoxy coating and sealant (don't want that plywood edge getting wet.). My thinking is that I had put do much effort into rudder and centreboard shape, burnishing the paint, as well as adding a slot gasket to the centerboard hole, that it would be a shame to have a protrusion on the hull. Every knot counts when the distance is between you and the beer. New England weather stinks.
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