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Ken_Potts last won the day on August 5

Ken_Potts had the most liked content!

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About Ken_Potts

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  • Birthday January 1

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    Perth Australia
  1. Spindrift 12 build log

    Looking good. Don't forget to take pictures tomorrow!
  2. 2.5 HP Suzuki

    From one engineer to another - I'm not sure I am understanding the problem correctly. Here's a picture of what I'm thinking - What did I miss? The angle change is quick and easy on my Honda, but I'm unfamiliar with Suzukis. On the Honda it's secured by a wing-nut of sorts so there's no tool needed.
  3. 2.5 HP Suzuki

    Don - I think I'd try changing the angle of the motor to get the lower unit a little farther from the transom before I started cutting anything. It looks like you've got a couple more notches left in the adjustment.
  4. Marissa # 63

    What broke, the glue or the wood? Disclaimer: I'm not an expert so don't take the rest of this post as gospel. If the wood itself didn't break there may have been a problem with the glue joints. The epoxy may have not penetrated the wood enough to get a good joint. If the wood broke the problem wasn't the glue joint, it would be the bend (as you have noted). The scarfing method Don shows works with a belt sander, too. You could always do a practice joint before you commit the real parts to it.
  5. OK256 in Vanuatu

    Capriosca, let me know if you need crew for the run to the messabout.
  6. Marissa # 63

    Welcome Riggs! Your very first post has me stricken with shed envy. I'll try not to let that cleanliness color my opinion of you. I also can't help with the frame dimensions - If you don't get a quick enough response here you should give B&B a call. They're friendly people and would probably be quick to help. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.
  7. Fuel Tanks, Splash well, Windows...

    Just a personal aesthetic opinion: I love the look of wood grain but I like the look of a veneer much more on a piece of furniture than on the outside of a boat (it's pretty, but I just don't think it looks quite right). I prefer to paint plywood and leave some nice clear wood highlights on things like coamings and hatch covers. When I first saw how beautiful the grain was on the okume ply I used to build my CS17 I hesitated a bit about painting over it but I went ahead and painted and I never regretted it. I built hatch covers and a coaming that had nice alternating patterns of ash and walnut and pretty much left it at that.
  8. CS-17, Mk-3 for sale

    And don't forget that "red right returning" is a bad idea pretty much everywhere except the US! I still wonder how us Murkins got that one backwards (or whether it was intentional).
  9. The Old Motor Bug (Updated)

    Chick haven't you figured out yet that buying old motors makes you move somewhere else? Are you going to move back to the coast now?
  10. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    I should add that I don't think my idea is any better than yours - I'm just adding the sketch to give a better picture of what I described yesterday. Whatever works for you is the best way to do it.
  11. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Here's a sketch of the way I was picturing it. The process will be quicker if you find a way to release the mast from the crutch without climbing onto the boat. You might use a boat hook to release a loop of bungee cord or you could come up with a tricky knot that can be released by pulling on a release line, etc. Then the process would be: 1. Carry snacks from the truck to the cockpit. While you're next to the cockpit, release the mast from the crutch. 2. Walk back to the truck to get the sail bags and on the way stop and pull on the mast raising line to bring the mast vertical. Cleat the raising line off to secure the mast temporarily. 3. Bring the sails to the cockpit and take the rudder cover off. 4. Climb aboard and take the main sail to the forward hatch. 5. Secure the base of the main mast and untie the raising line. 6. Set up the mainsail. 7. go back and rig the mizzen mast and sail. 8. etc. As you rig the boat more often you'll find a good sequence so you'll be making as few trips from the boat to the truck as possible and you'll always be getting ready for the next task while you're doing the task at hand. I was eventually able to rig my CS17 (Mark I) in 11 minutes without rushing as long as I didn't have anyone helping.
  12. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    The 91 degrees would have made it extra tough to work on rigging while looking at all that cool water over your shoulder. I think you should first look at any tasks that were uncomfortable (heavy lifting) and sort those out. If you extend the post that holds your winch so it ends a few feet above the deck you could put a block on it so you can haul the main mast up while standing on the ground - The line for hauling up the mast could be tied around the mast at a height that is easy to reach when the mast is up and you are standing in the forward hatch. If there's not enough mechanical advantage you can add blocks until it's easy. Let me know if I'm not explaining this well - I can post a sketch. You can leave this mast raising line rigged (but slack) while trailering the boat so you don't have to set it up to use it. Once you've got the strenuous tasks fixed you can turn your attention to making other things faster and easier. The first thing that comes to mind is sail bags. If you're using the bags that the sails came in you are spending time unfolding the sail and figuring out which end is up, etc. I made long skinny bags for my current boat's sails. The bags zip along their length and the ends of the bags are sealed with velcro. When I finish sailing I drop the sails and zip the bags on before I take them off the sail track or the outhaul. That way they are ready to deploy again next time - It's just a matter of putting the slides on the track, connecting the clew to the outhaul and unzipping the bag. Each time you go out you can find something that will make the process a little quicker and easier. Sometimes it's just a matter of leaving a knot tied or replacing a knot with a soft shackle. Experience will also allow you to order your tasks so you don't climb onto the boat or crawl through the cabin more times than absolutely necessary. One thing that I think is really nice is that the more times I sail a boat, the easier and faster it is to rig. It's just one more excuse to go sailing
  13. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Happy Anniversary! I hope my wife and I will celebrate our 58th also, but I better not hold my breath as we're only approaching our 7th now.
  14. CS17 bottom stringers

    Chick and Paul, Unless the plans have changed (and they may have) the stringers that Batman is talking about are installed parallel to the center line of the boat. The straight stringers that are installed on a diagonal are forward of the forward bulkhead. The ones Batman is having trouble with are aft of the forward bulkhead. Batman, I wish I could remember how I dealt with that part of the build but it's been too long. I remember looking at it and thinking about it but I don't remember how I did it. Most likely I scribed the curve onto a straight piece of lumber by cutting the straight piece to length and sitting it in place so it was only resting on its ends. If you use a spacer or a compass that is set equal to the largest part of the gap you can scribe a line that tapers from cutting nothing in the middle of the piece to cutting a lot at each end. The spacer follows the bottom of the boat so you'll automatically compensate for the bump where the thin forward panel meets the thicker bottom panel. That might get you most of the way to a piece that fits but you may have to knock a little off here or there. I wish I could remember if that's the way I actually did it.
  15. A good-lookin boat

    So... Did you at least enjoy the swim?