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About Aethyr

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    Kalamazoo, MI
  1. Actually I was wondering how long I should let it dry before putting it in.
  2. And the last coat is on!
  3. Looks like I developed a slight bend at the very tail end of the boat. Hopefully a light lean will fix it. Here is coat #2 on the bottom drying: And from the back (which isn't stitched as nicely, at least up close and personal like I took this): I mentioned it in another thread, I am using Rustoleum Marine Spar varnish which is an oil based polyurethane which is supposedly UV/Salt Water/Mildew resistant, and expands/contracts with the weather (perhaps more flexible?) from Lowes at $12/quart.
  4. This stuff is suppose to be very mildew/uv/salt resistant.
  5. No stain, just clear. I kinda expect it to be slightly yellow/brown looking at the *cough* drips *cough* on my coaming.
  6. I am planning on using Rustoleum's Marine Spar Varnish Anyone have any experience with it? Also, how much do you think you need for a 16 footer?
  7. Front turned out MUCH better than the back. I figured better to practice on the back first..
  8. Didn't get any pictures of sewing on the coaming. Here is the start of the whip stitch: Looking down the front of the kayak. Get to see my foot pedals and the interior of the coaming: Down the back of the kayak: A little more whip stitch: And the front done:
  9. I took a weekend long blacksmithing class last year. Made some coat hooks (basic forge use, basic hammering/shaping), 6" iron ring (practice forge welding), chisel (tempering) and 1 project of your choice. I picked blacksmithing tongs (giant pliers). I like the idea of knife making and decorative ironwork.
  10. Back half done sewing the straight stitch: Around the stern I am still not 100% happy with it. The entire back half could be re-stitched. As my wife said, it looks like man sewing to her: Front half complete: I swear the tiniest wrinkles show up like crazy in the pictures. It should stretch out all the wrinkles once I am done ironing it. Also I got a few new toys at the house to play with: as well as One friend had a forge but no anvil, and another friend an anvil but no forge. I generously offered to store them both at my place!
  11. Link to Curlew Buildlog Part 1 Link to Curlew Buildlog Part 2 Part 2 took me through building the frame and a laminated coaming. Not shown is the floor boards and rail/foot pedals. Skin is starting to go on! Fabric is pinned to the centerline with pushpins. Sides pulled taut and pinned up as well. Here is the front. Some of the fabric has been trimmed down: And the back half I used the spring clamps as glorified pins to pull the fabric tight around the frame. After I used the spring clamps, I pulled out the pushpins and tried to remove any slack possible. The back part around the curve going horizontal to vertical has some slack fabric that I am not sure how I am going to remove. I am going to sew up to there and hope it works itself out by then. I have finished up the foot pedals and I am waiting for the varnish to dry before buttoning up the front half. I am also working on drilling the sew holes on the coaming. before starting the actual sewing part. I hope that I can get this into the water in a couple of weeks!
  12. There is a good place for Baltic Burch plywood in Kalamazoo if you are on this side of the state: Elenbaas Hardwood. They also had clear WRC in 16' boards that they ripped for me for no extra charge for stringers. The WRC was special order, arrived the next day.