Jump to content
Malwarebytes Endpoint Security
Advanced endpoint protection (affiliate link).

Barnacle Jim

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Barnacle Jim

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
  1. Thus the Work Proceeds: rail caps

    Ahoy, Thanks for the encouraging words. Charlie, I'm afraid I'm pretty much in the uninformed category when it comes to kevels. I do have a better idea of a hawse, but a kevel . . . . Well, let's just say I have never seen a genuine kevel and knew at the time. I have seen, though, a rough sketch of a kevel in a book on boatbuilding. So, I suppose that I have a rough idea of what I am trying to do. But that idea is very rough. Barry, the port profile you see is the worst perspective. Our thinking was that if the worst looked OK, then the better side should look a little better. Actually, the angle of the sun in the sky at the time forced us to photograph port rather than starboard. I had hoped someone experienced like yourself would say something about the sheer, and you did. The sheer gave us the most problems. I did a lot of squinting. Paul, when it comes to kevels, kegs, and kayaks, I am very much open to suggestions. From the sketch, it appears that the cast hawse is centered in the kevel. My guess is that the horns of the kevel extended some 3 inches or so beyond the sides of the hawse. The kevel looks to be through bolted to the hull with each horn being reinforced with a vertical wood spacer (thick stock). The overall length of the kevel is probably about 18" or less. The stock around the kevel looks to be about 1" to 1 1/2" thick. The stock for the kevel looks to be 6/4 or so. I might laminate for added strength. I believe you mentioned a metal plate. Could you explain further? I was thinking of using either hickory or white oak for the kevel. In your opinion, would either of these two woods be OK. Mahogany might look more decorative, but mahogany just doesn't have the strength. Our hawses are rather small, but our boat is a relatively small craft, too. Flange Dimension: 5 x 2-3/4" Opening Dimension: 3-5/8 x 1-3/8" Cutout: 4 x 1-3/4" Bulwark Thickness: 2" Paul, are these hawses thick enough to add a kevel? When I bought them, I did not order the ones with cleats. The cleats looked far too modern for the type of craft we were building. I did not order the stainless steel ones either and for the same reason. Do I need to modify the hawses so we can add kevels?
  2. Thus the Work Proceeds: rail caps

    And thus the work proceeds; the two tackles hoisting and lowering simultaneously; both whale and windlass heaving, the heavers singing, the blubber-room gentlemen coiling, the mates scarfing, the ship straining, and all hands swearing occasionally, by way of assuaging the general friction.
  3. Steaming

    Ahoy Scott, Have you considered laminating? True, you may have exposed glue lines, but the lines and the wood can still be finished bright, and with respectable results. You would still have to use a form, but without the possibility of the wood cracking or breaking. Indeed, the finished product would be stronger than the wood itself. Consider, for instance, heavy laminated beams in buildings. Scott, here are some early photos of one such project for my own boat. The suggestion to build a smooth curved form would give you better results. I just went with the crude blocks because it was a bit faster. As I recall, we merely placed our block along the radius we wanted, and used some small handclamps to hold our stock to the blocks. Scott, I think I remember working in stages, glueing 3 or 4 strips at a time one day, and the remaining strips the next day. Admittedly, with laminated stock, you will need to clean things up a bit, sometimes with a sander, and sometimes with a handplane, but nothing quite beats the joy of using a handplane on stock. Here is a photo of the stock now ready for finishing. The lines are true, the curve remained just as we had wanted. Here is a close-up of the stock. Yes, you can see that the stock is laminated, but if the lines are not objectionable to you, your stock will look good and finish bright. The glue is RAKA epoxy, straight from the bottle. (We may have used some thicker epoxy from Glenn-L; I don't exactly recall.) Should you try laminating stock, don't forget the wax paper. Otherwise, you could end up having glued your stock to the form itself. That would not be a good day. In fact, doing something like that could really make you steamed!
  4. "Island Girl" progress

    Ahoy, This all sound delightful; good boats, good sailing and a chance to make some new friends while renewing an old friendship as well. Not sure that we can make it this May, but if we cannot, another month and time will do just as well. Yes, Barry is right. The power boat would make a good photo boat. What a fantastic finish that boat has! A photo of the deck in the foreground with a sailboat in the background would be fantastic. If we're fortunate we might even have a whale in the photo as well. I almost forgot to mention a good cup of coffee. You have some good coffee up that way, and remarkable vegetables and fruits! The seafood's not shoddy either. Sounds good to me.
  5. "Island Girl" progress

    Ahoy, Joel, what a fine boat! Everything looks very clean and well done. Say, now about this mess-about you folks are planning, maybe we could come up that way once our own boat is finished? That seafood and scenery sound pretty good.
  6. Morningstar...............

    Ahoy, What's this all about hate-mail and other disparing comments? In a way, I understand. I do get a lot of mail myself that I hate, usually bills, though. People have even been known to call me at dinner time just to try and sell me the latest insurance policy. Somehow, though, I manage to go back to eating and not lose much sleep over it. Moringstar, don't let any comments get you down. There are not any mean people on this board who mean for their comments to be mean, if you know what I mean. [i removed some text and photos from this late night posting. Let's keep the focus on Morning Star and his fine boat. No need to get discouraged!]
  7. sailing in Arizona

    Ahoy Oyster, There are two dogs in the sailing photos. A good brass telescope and a sharp eye will focus not only on the magnificant and faithful sea dog, Petra, but also on the fearless sea dog, Miss Sheba. Both were aboard ships, both are true blue sea dogs, and both grace the photos of sailing on Lake Pleasant. Here is a close-up photo of Miss Sheba Girl
  8. Ready for the final finish

    Ahoy Oyster, What a great boat! Fender washers as rollers
  9. More Progress photes

    Ahoy! What a boat! What a hatch! Good job, Barry, good job. The wood looks beautiful.
  10. Cutting fiberglass

    Ahoy Charlie, Thanks for the tip. I hate cutting fiberglass. Even when I write about cutting fiberglass, I start to scratch. Whenever I cut, there is always some untidy string somewhere, the one you don't see until you begin to apply the epoxy.
  11. Dove Done

    Ahoy Joe, Looks a fine job to me, and a fine boat. So glad you restored her. Thanks for sending the photos our way! (I hate to say it, but those guys on the WBF sound like they're nuts. I read some of the postings.)
  12. Sanding the hull

    Ahoy, The photos came through. What a nice boat you have. Looks like you're well on your way!
  13. BoardTracker?

    Ahoy, Boardtracker, I didn't see a boardtracker. Maybe the Boardtracer just didn't track me? Here is my untested theory: Boardtracker tracks only those who are interesting; the rest, he ignores.
  14. Smoothing plane

    Ahoy Howard, This morning as I read your posting again, I noticed a reference to varnish. Apparently, you want to varnish some of your surfaces and paint others. Here are a couple of photos of what we did. Our stem is not fiberglassed, but we did encapsulate the wood in epoxy, and then applied a single coat of varnish for temporary protection. (We'll apply multiple coats later.) Our finish turned out glass smooth. We used a roller to apply the epoxy in very thin coats, sanded between coats, and on the final coat, we did something different. On the final coat, we used a rubber squeege, the ones you use to clean a window. We dipped the squeege into a solvent and lightly smoothed our surface. Here is a close-up of the results. Yes, we lightly sanded as well, stopping I believe with 320 grit. The finish turned out glass smooth and retained the beauty of the wood. Howard, one word of caution here. On the stem we tried using Ripstock Nylon as well, but that approach did not work out for us. Unlike the hull, the stem simply has too many planes for the fabric to mold itself to the shape of the substrate. The approach with the rubber squeege and solvent, however, worked quite well. We followed a similar approach with our transom, but there we fiberglassed the surface. I think we used a 3 ounce cloth, but I'm not sure. Eventually, the weave disappeared. I must tell you, however, that on the transom we have some heat blisters that later appeared, so we still have a little work to do there. Good luck on your boatbuilding, Howard. You'll get this epoxy application down and become familar with the attending characteristics. You may have a mishap or two on the way, but your boat will turn out fine.
  15. Smoothing plane

    Ahoy Howard, Charlie knows as much as anyone about epoxy, but if I may, let me share with you a couple of similar experiences we had and what we did. Sandpaper Clog Like Charlie, I think that sounds like a curing problem. You may not be waiting long enough to begin sanding. That happened with me once or twice. Another possible factor may be in how you are mixing the resin and hardner. Check your ratios carefully. I messed up here once or twice. Another area we can go wrong, is stirring time. Some experts recommend something around two and a half minutes of stirring. Dips and Other Marks Once you've solved the problem with clogging, you should be able to sand out the defects. What we did to get a smooth surface was to use Ripstop Nylon. We bought the fabric at a local fabric store. Applied a light coat of epoxy over our surface, and then attached the fabric and used a squeege to level everything out. This approach worked very well for us. Once everything was level, and the epoxy had cured, we sanded to our hearts content. Epxoy can be frustrating, but you can eventually get the best of it. Just keep telling the folks here on the board what's happening, and they'll come up with a good solution. You can trust what they say. ______________ Just as a postscript, here are a couple of more photos, more along the lines of a before and after picture. Here's what our cabin looked like after we had filled the screw holes and faired the defects