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Kudzu last won the day on November 28 2016

Kudzu had the most liked content!

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About Kudzu

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  • Birthday January 1

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    Tennesse River
  1. It is not that I mind people modifying them so much... when you modify it, it is no longer 'my design'. It is now a different boat and I am am in no way going to accept the liability by encouraging that. You are welcome to change anything you wish, just understand that when you do, it is your boat,not mine. You are not responsible for the boat then, not me.
  2. It is sewn on tight. You can not depend on shrinking it around the frame but I am convinced depending on shrinking any fabric is a bad idea. They relax and go slack after a while. So just sew it on tight to start with.
  3. I haven't because I can't find it. I can't remember anyone that has used it but I have been interested it trying it.
  4. Nothing is going to look like wood. So I countersink mine and put in wood plugs if I want to cover them. On my canoes rubrails I leave them exposed. I will ad that if you going to paint over it, Famowood filler. I have digging it on out my Chris Craft and it is some good stuff!
  5. The plywood coaming is designed to be screwed together, not sewn. Installation is covered in the Assembly Manual. Center it over the frames. In the photo it looks to far forward or you laminated beam is to far back.
  6. Not me, I have never made a metal keel?? EDIT: Just realized you were talking about the rub strip. I have used it a lot. Just use some half oval bronze like that used on traditional canoes.
  7. Best way to skin a canoe is use a set of canvas pliers and staple the skin in place, then cover it with a nice looking rub rail to hide the staples. Brass rub strips on the ends. With just a little care you will just very minimal distortion. Either fabric will work but the original has the loose weave so you can shift it around and it does conform to irregular shapes better than the others. But either one will work, just have to take you time and not be afraid to redo your mistakes.... you will make some!
  8. I could be happy with either one. I have narrowed my fleet down to a modified Curlew that I have had for a long time and a Short Shot. I rotate between them depending on where I am going and who I am paddling with. Curlew is lighter because of the hard chines so less wood and it is shorter. That is a advantage in some locations. I like to paddle the Short Shot a little better. Its hard to say why because the differences are subtle and not something that you can explain. It is slight easier to paddle as in less resistance but again, very subtle. Most people wouldn't really notice it unless you paddled one and then the other. But the longer length and extra weight are a draw back when tossing it on a roof of the car. Turning around in tight places in narrow creeks. It would be a hard choice but I think if I had to pick one it would be the Ravenswood or Curlew, Ravenswood is very similar to Curlew and paddles the same just different styling. Since I paddle a variety of places and conditions I think the lightweight would win. But then again, I really like the way the Short Shot paddles. I think I could be happy with either one of them.
  9. With my kayak stable in good shape I have been really searching trying to decide where I want to go next. Tossed around lots of ideas and finally have realized that I really need to work on my canoes. I have had a couple of inquiries about an Expedition canoe and I think that is going to be the next big project. I am not a 'canoe guy' so I have found a couple of existing canoes and modeled them. I am going to study these and may model a couple more before I done just to get a better understand of expedition canoes. These two were inspried by the Chestnut Prospector and a Redfish (with hard chines). These are just study models at this point. I will make something totally new but first I need something to start with.
  10. LOL. not much luck huh? Well it is winter and the forum and sales do slow down. Here is a photo of one of mind taken by a local pro. LOL. not much luck huh? Well it is winter and the forum and sales do slow down. Here is a photo of one of mind taken by a local pro.
  11. Thanks for the input. Some of those things I was all ready considering. I just wanted to start with the existing before I started changing much. This boat was used in the Chincoteguea Bay area around turn of the century onward and I happen to know that area. Lots of shallow water and oyster beds so I am guessing that is the reason for the rudder. Kayaking there can be interesting, especially at low tides. The centerboard struck me as odd though.
  12. No idea yet. Haven't gotten that far. I assume that originally the keel was solid wood, not metal. But with the lightweight hull and narrowness I am concerned about it's tenderness too. Of course I am not committed to the hull shape as is. I figured it was best to start with the existing and then go from there. Might even go another direction all together.
  13. Thought I toss this out for any input anyone might have. As you may know I build Fuselage Frame/Skin on Frame boats. I have focused on kayaks but have wanted to offer other types of boats. A small sailboat has been high on my list for some time and I think it is time to seriously look at this. My goal is to the use the KISS plan(keep it simple stupid) as much as practical That means I need a small boat, free standing rig. I like traditional looking boats and I looked seriously at Whitehall style hulls. But I found lines for the Seaside Bateau and she seems like she might be a better choice.. It's 15 ft and about the right width for the fabric I have available. I stated by creating a file of the existing design. It has a swing keel/centerboard, I am thinking of replacing that with a removable centerboard . It simplifies the design and probably saves a little weight. Even so, I do like a swinging board for convenience of beaching or getting hung in all the weeds we have. I did add a chine underwater. With the skin covering it really needless of span so the fabric can better hold its shape but otherwise stayed very close to the original to start with. Biggest concern is the sail. It's reasonable to assume the hull will no more than 100 lbs ready to go.The original lines did not show the sail plan but based on what I have seen in similar boats I am thinking that I am probably looking at no more than 75 sq ft of sail. Probably some sort of Gaff or lug sail to keep the sail as low as possible. The only real ballast will be me. Seaside Bateau.PDF
  14. Tell everyone what fabric and finish you used. I am sure they want to know.
  15. 34 inch length (inside) is typical for all the boats. You can make the width a little wider or narrower if you wanted. I have just found that a good width.