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Designer last won the day on May 7

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  1. Walt, I Have nothing against honest structural components on the inside. I tend to fuss with fairing the outside but I usually pull a scraper along the edges of the inside taping.
  2. Chick, She sure is coming out pretty and you are doing some great work. All of that solid wood might be raising the weight above your target though.
  3. I have towed everywhere with the rudder on the transom for 50 years without issues to the rudder. I have had my share of trailer problems though. That is seriously a lot of miles. My worst incident was when the draw bar broke at 60 mph allowing the trailer to go awol, the catamaran hit a gum tree and took 4 feet off of the port bow causing the rig to rotate the aft starboard hull aft into a big fence. My only consolation was that one was hurt and no collateral damage. I recall that the rudders survived. She was rebuilt and turned into a very successful boat, not to mention getting a better trailer. My reason for leaving the rudder in place is that I wan't to keep set up and break down to a minimum. Carlita's setup is getting better with time. My only aggravation left is to make a pair of padded crutches to carry my sprits on top of the masts like Jay does. I have been lashing them to the trailer with padding. It is safe and secure but tedious. I considered making a box on the trailer to carry them but sitting the sprits on the masts keeps them close to where they are used. A spiral wrap bungee will also corral loose halyards and keep the companionway clear.
  4. Hi Luke, Welcome to the forum. Pulling from the sides will not help with closing the keel gap. I would use gravity. If you shift the forward cradle to the position of the widest gap it should close the gap. Make sure that the keel line is taking all of the weight. If it does not close all of the way immediately, give it some time. The nesting bulkheads may need trimming by a mm or two if they are too tight. Yes the bulkhead line on the side plan is the kerf line between the nesting bulkheads. You should have gotten full size shapes for the knees. If you did not, you can email me.
  5. Wind surfer masts are tempting but for most of our boats they are not strong enough because they are loaded differently. On our boats the mast is planted like a flag pole. The unsupported length goes from the the deck to the mast head. On a wind surfer, the skipper is supporting the mast at about one third of the mast height leaving a much shorter unsupported mast length. If anyone can find out the section modulus of wind surfer mast at the lower end we can check if it is strong enough. We have used tapered fiberglass tubes for the upper portions of our masts. A wind surfer mast could be good for this application.
  6. I got to try a Spindrift 10 with sprit rig with the mast in the standard position a long time ago. Unfortunately it was light air but she had some lee helm when close hauled. I have used a sprit in the Catspaw for the reasons Wile mentioned. My main objection was having to tack the sheets for each tack and the high sheet loads. Because there is no boom or sprit to keep the foot tight, the helmsman has to apply the outhaul forces as well as bringing the sail in to the correct sheeting angle. The lug rig would be a better choice if you want short spars. Of course the standard Sprindrift rig with it's take apart mast has the shortest spars and easy reefing but it does cost more.
  7. Drew, You already have the main mast set now that the tabernacle installed. Just match the mizzen mast angle to the main mast. The mast angle is not that critical as the mast heads will move around a couple of feet while underway. Aesthetically we like to have the rake of both masts match.
  8. B & B get a visitor from Colorado. She looks good in royal blue. Alan and Nat are checking her out.
  9. Drew, the cockpit seating and sole pitch aft at about 1 degree so that it will drain. The masts rake aft 2 degrees. It would not be hard to fit a mizzen tabernacle with a one degree differential from his mast axis to the sole pitch.
  10. I hate to see this happen. The hull must have had water lying in it for a long time for the trunk side to rot like this. It makes me wonder if there is not more damage elsewhere. I am not a fan of Git Rot either. I would cut out the effected wood and splice in new wood. I do not think that the trunk needs to come out if what you show in the picture is all of the damage. If you are convinced that you cannot splice in new wood and the inside of the trunk is glassed, as recommended, you could scrape, grind out the bad wood and fill it back up with wood flour and cabosil thickened epoxy and glass over the outside and it would be more than strong enough. This would take a delicate hand with the grinder as you could grind through glass in a second. I would remove the centerboard and and put a backing piece inside the trunk and wedged tight against the side of the trunk that you are working on. Tape some plastic to the backer so that it cannot get glued in place if some epoxy happens to work it's way through the glass on the inside of the trunk. If you are careful enough to remove the damaged ply down to the glass, it will not be very stiff and may dish or get wavy. You might remove the rot in strips, say 3 wide and fill it in with thickened epoxy before removing the next three inch strip. I would remove all of the damage part on one side and just put in a new piece of 6mm ply. You can butt joint the ply as long as you cover the butt joint with glass tape. It is also important to remove all of the rotten wood and go well beyond where you think that the rot ends or it will continue to rot on the other side of your repair.
  11. Chick, One more quick tip. I am sure that you know this but if you forgot about it, it could spoil your day tomorrow when you turn the parts over to glass the other side. Remember that with cured epoxy and glass on one side, with the glass side under tension it is very strong. When the non glassed side is under tension it is very weak and the glass could crack along the joint line. If you flip it over carefully with two people or clamp a batten across the joint so that there is no sudden whip as that large part is turned over, you will be fine. I typically glass both sides at a time with three sheets of plastic, under, over and in between the panels for release and clamped between two pieced of flat wood until cured. The advantage is that you get both sides glued at one time, it is no longer fragile, the clamped glass squashes down to about half thickness and comes out very smooth.
  12. Pete, You do not need a temporary crutch while you remove the mast crutch prior to stepping the mizzen. You have to have to carry a type 4 throw cushion, I put mine on the aft end of the sliding hatch. I just lift both of my masts off of he crutch and lower them onto the cushion. I have to slide the mizzen further forward so that it does not tip backwards. I can now remove the mast crutch and stow it and then step the mizzen. I put a crutch an the side of my tabernacle to carry the head of the mizzen mast. I carry the mizzen with the head forward. This requires a smaller crutch and sets the mast in the right direction for raising the mizzen.
  13. Mike, Make the top flush and let the bottom hang over. The reason is because we are anal. The transom rakes and the keel centerline rises making the bottom joint an obtuse angle. We intended for you to bevel the bottom overhang after it is glued together for a closer fit requiring less epoxy in the joint. We could have made those pieces to the exact height of the transom and just let you to fill that large gap with epoxy. The end product will be the same either way but we cannot help ourselves.
  14. Steve, I put my stern eyes as far outboard on the transom as I could and fairly high up. I also angled them to try to make them less likely to snarl. With my boomkin it never happens but I did get one mizzen sheet foul around the prop while out yesterday.
  15. Dave, it cleans up okay. I put mine down with Awlgrip which is easy to clean anyway because nothing much penetrates the coating. I will have to look at the container to check the brand name. The soft sand rubber that Paul found looks like it. We found the sprinkle on the wet paint, sweep off the excess before top coat method gave the neatest results. Another point in favor of masking the nonskid into smaller areas is that if you tear up one section or have to make a repair or alteration, you do not have to repaint the whole deck.