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Designer last won the day on July 15

Designer had the most liked content!

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    Vandemere, NC
  1. Core Sound 17 Questions

    The flagpoles make terrible masts. As has been pointed out, they use a softer grade of aluminum to allow them to be able to spin taper the pole. They have to use the same heavy wall thickness all the way to the top. In fact the act of spin tapering actually forces the wall thickness to increase which is why the center of gravity is so high on flag pole masts. We are able to calculate the loads on the mast at different heights and reduce the diameter and wall thickness as required.
  2. We are off to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival in Washington State. We are off in the morning. The First leg is to Drummond Island In Northern Michigan where I will visit Gordy who now has a summer place there. I will get to sail in the northern Great Lakes for about a week before pushing west. Maybe Gordy will catch some of those fish that he talks about I am looking forward to catching up with our west coast group. It is a long haul of about 7,000 miles round trip the way I am going. We will see if the little Golf is up to the task. Beth has been hard at work dressing her up with revarnishing and finishing some top coat and I have completed the dodger and the Micro nesting dinghy. Alan should have uploaded the video of assembling the Micro in the water by now. It is easier to assemble than we had hoped and rows pretty well too. It took Alan just under 30 seconds to put it together and no water in the boat. With 1/2" hollow back down the keel and fendering all around, the front half came out right at 25# and the aft half weighs 20#. Carlita must be about the smallest boat to carry a hard dinghy on deck. It actually fits pretty well and I can go forward easier with it on board than without. I have been too busy to get some pictures of the dodger but I will get some along the way.
  3. Marissa # 63

    About the only improvement that I can see would be a Marissa under construction in that shop. Because the Marissa backbone slots together there is no conventional building jig. She is built on a pair of saw horses. They are about 43" wide with the aft one 36 5/8" high and the forward one 35" high and are setup 100" apart. All of this is not critical. I built hull #1 on a pair of 55 gallon drums with a pair 2 by's across the drums and a pair fore and aft to rest the cockpit sole on. The main deal is to pack the cockpit sole so that it is flat and pitches up 1 degree aft for drainage. Remember we are talking about the boat upside down which means that the cockpit will pitch down aft for drainage when turned upright. The stem is extended down to the floor and fixed as well frame extensions. On a concrete floor like you have, I usually epoxy down some short lengths of 2 x 4 to screw the stem and frame extensions. It is not hard to grind off the epoxy and repaint the floor after the build.
  4. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    Chick, I can't let you have all of the fun. By the way, I have not seen anything about your new motor canoe. Don that round disc was to reinforce the nesting bulkhead hardware. We are now thinking of eliminating it.
  5. Texas 200

    Fred, I took the roller furling jib with me to Texas but left the bowsprit tip behind. As I was doing it the hard way, most of the time I was reefed going to windward so it was no loss and there was mostly excess wind. Except for the time that Alan and I tested the spinnaker I have not flown it as I have been single handed most of the time and taking it down alone in freshening conditions can be difficult. I have flown the jib a lot because it is fitted to a furling gear and it is easy to furl up and it can be dropped easily furled or left up for later use. It does not have the area of the spinnaker but it still increases the sail area off the wind a lot. It can be carried a lot closer to the wind than the spinnaker can but like the spinnaker it is in the wind shadow of the mizzen when running deep. I have not fooled around with a pole for running deep down wind. I have not used a mizzen staysail as the jib is bigger and easier to tack and I think that there would be too much back winding of some of the sails if carrying it as well as the jib at the same time. I cannot be sure if the forward board is of much help as it is small and I cannot tell much difference on the helm. I do not think that I would fit one again unless I had the room to make it bigger. Overall I think that the jib is worth the effort as it does rev up the performance off the wind for casual racer, it does come at the cost of more stuff to have on board. I use the aft end of the bowsprit as my mast crutch when the masts are down. Unless you are a serious racer I think that I would leave the spinnaker off. I did rig a staysail halyard on the mizzen mast and I have been using it as a topping lift to support the mizzen sprit when I stow the sails.
  6. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    Pete, The hull is made from 4mm ply and I could not go any thinner. I hate to say this early but I hope that each half of the boat will not exceed 25#. The assembled ply only hull weighed just 20#. Instead of zip ties for most of the chines, keel and aft transom except for the high load areas I was able to hot glue it together, it saved a lot of time. As soon as I can find someone to help, I will weigh her again now that the transom stiffeners and laminated gunwales are on. In case you are wondering why I laminate the gunwales, I always laminate them on nested boats so that they do not spring straight when the boat is cut.
  7. WoodenBoat Show at Mystic Seaport.

    I meant to share these pictures. Beth and I lived on Carlita at the show and the first picture is what I saw as I opened my eyes each morning and looked out the companionway hatch from my pillow. The second picture was taken through the aft starboard port. The Charles W Morgan was built in 1851 and is still fully functional. While on my trip down the Intra Coastal Waterway last January I was invited to a yacht club party at my hosts house. During the night he showed me some memorabilia of the Morgan as his family owned the shipping company that had her built.
  8. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    I usually tack weld between the ties so that I can remove the ties without messing with hardened epoxy on either Ip ties or tie wire. One advantage with zip ties where they are strong enough to do the job is that sometimes you need to epoxy them in such as a corner that has a lot of tension and there is not enough space to avoid getting epoxy on them, just cut them smooth and leave them in.
  9. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    Alex, The tender does not interfere with the dodger. Now that it is summer I moved the dodger to the back burner. It is all done except for the sewing.
  10. Don, I thought that you came on a bit aggressive for a polite conversation between friends. I accept and appreciate your apology.
  11. sail trim

    If you slack off of the snotter and tighten up the reefing line all the way then retighten the snotter until you get the draft that you want you will remove all of that bagginess. The sail still has to bend over the sprit when it is on the lee side of the sail but the big crease will be gone and the draft of the sail will be more uniform.
  12. It is hard to tell from the picture if the forward cheek block is on backwards. The sheave should be forward to allow room for the reefing line to pass down the aft side before it turns forward.
  13. Those grommets are just backup for the leech and foot line cleats.
  14. Spotted on the water in a gale

    Thanks Oyster for posting that picture. That is CS20 hull #1. She was built by Peter P for a customer who is now in his 80's. He donated her to the NC Maritime Museum in May. He told me that she was his hardest possession to give up. She looks to be well sailed in those conditions.
  15. My transition to the current painter/ bow connection design came about because I wanted to avoid a metal eye on the bow of the tender that could attack my boat. I also wanted to avoid a potential leak into the forward flotation compartment. Imagine how it would tow with the bow full of water. I Know that the pundits call for the tow point to be as low as possible. I always use a painter that floats so that it is always lighter than polyester or nylon, especially when wet. This creates a very small catenary when it is towing so that when the tender is eased back to the optimum towing length for the conditions, there is very little change of angle between the low towing eye and where I put it and the conventional position. You need a floating painter so that it cannot get wrapped around the prop. I have experimented with different towing eye heights and I cannot tell the difference. Remember that with the shorter waterline length of the tender she will squat, giving a bow up attitude when the towing vessel is reaching hull speed. Living aboard and using the tender every day except when on a passage, I noticed that after 5 years that there was some wear on the painter where it passed through the bow. I untied the stopper knot and cut off 6" and after retying it I had another 5 years before I needed to do it again. I believe that a metal connection would need replacing by then. After 15 years of full time use I believe that this method met requirements of being functional, reliable and cheap. If you want to go with the conventional bow eye, have at it, it is a small deal.