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Designer

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Designer last won the day on July 15

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About Designer

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    Vandemere, NC
  1. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    Chick, I can't let you have all of the fun. By the way, I have not seen anything about your new motor canoe. Don that round disc was to reinforce the nesting bulkhead hardware. We are now thinking of eliminating it.
  2. Texas 200

    Fred, I took the roller furling jib with me to Texas but left the bowsprit tip behind. As I was doing it the hard way, most of the time I was reefed going to windward so it was no loss and there was mostly excess wind. Except for the time that Alan and I tested the spinnaker I have not flown it as I have been single handed most of the time and taking it down alone in freshening conditions can be difficult. I have flown the jib a lot because it is fitted to a furling gear and it is easy to furl up and it can be dropped easily furled or left up for later use. It does not have the area of the spinnaker but it still increases the sail area off the wind a lot. It can be carried a lot closer to the wind than the spinnaker can but like the spinnaker it is in the wind shadow of the mizzen when running deep. I have not fooled around with a pole for running deep down wind. I have not used a mizzen staysail as the jib is bigger and easier to tack and I think that there would be too much back winding of some of the sails if carrying it as well as the jib at the same time. I cannot be sure if the forward board is of much help as it is small and I cannot tell much difference on the helm. I do not think that I would fit one again unless I had the room to make it bigger. Overall I think that the jib is worth the effort as it does rev up the performance off the wind for casual racer, it does come at the cost of more stuff to have on board. I use the aft end of the bowsprit as my mast crutch when the masts are down. Unless you are a serious racer I think that I would leave the spinnaker off. I did rig a staysail halyard on the mizzen mast and I have been using it as a topping lift to support the mizzen sprit when I stow the sails.
  3. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    Pete, The hull is made from 4mm ply and I could not go any thinner. I hate to say this early but I hope that each half of the boat will not exceed 25#. The assembled ply only hull weighed just 20#. Instead of zip ties for most of the chines, keel and aft transom except for the high load areas I was able to hot glue it together, it saved a lot of time. As soon as I can find someone to help, I will weigh her again now that the transom stiffeners and laminated gunwales are on. In case you are wondering why I laminate the gunwales, I always laminate them on nested boats so that they do not spring straight when the boat is cut.
  4. WoodenBoat Show at Mystic Seaport.

    I meant to share these pictures. Beth and I lived on Carlita at the show and the first picture is what I saw as I opened my eyes each morning and looked out the companionway hatch from my pillow. The second picture was taken through the aft starboard port. The Charles W Morgan was built in 1851 and is still fully functional. While on my trip down the Intra Coastal Waterway last January I was invited to a yacht club party at my hosts house. During the night he showed me some memorabilia of the Morgan as his family owned the shipping company that had her built.
  5. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    I usually tack weld between the ties so that I can remove the ties without messing with hardened epoxy on either Ip ties or tie wire. One advantage with zip ties where they are strong enough to do the job is that sometimes you need to epoxy them in such as a corner that has a lot of tension and there is not enough space to avoid getting epoxy on them, just cut them smooth and leave them in.
  6. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    Alex, The tender does not interfere with the dodger. Now that it is summer I moved the dodger to the back burner. It is all done except for the sewing.
  7. Don, I thought that you came on a bit aggressive for a polite conversation between friends. I accept and appreciate your apology.
  8. sail trim

    If you slack off of the snotter and tighten up the reefing line all the way then retighten the snotter until you get the draft that you want you will remove all of that bagginess. The sail still has to bend over the sprit when it is on the lee side of the sail but the big crease will be gone and the draft of the sail will be more uniform.
  9. It is hard to tell from the picture if the forward cheek block is on backwards. The sheave should be forward to allow room for the reefing line to pass down the aft side before it turns forward.
  10. Those grommets are just backup for the leech and foot line cleats.
  11. Spotted on the water in a gale

    Thanks Oyster for posting that picture. That is CS20 hull #1. She was built by Peter P for a customer who is now in his 80's. He donated her to the NC Maritime Museum in May. He told me that she was his hardest possession to give up. She looks to be well sailed in those conditions.
  12. My transition to the current painter/ bow connection design came about because I wanted to avoid a metal eye on the bow of the tender that could attack my boat. I also wanted to avoid a potential leak into the forward flotation compartment. Imagine how it would tow with the bow full of water. I Know that the pundits call for the tow point to be as low as possible. I always use a painter that floats so that it is always lighter than polyester or nylon, especially when wet. This creates a very small catenary when it is towing so that when the tender is eased back to the optimum towing length for the conditions, there is very little change of angle between the low towing eye and where I put it and the conventional position. You need a floating painter so that it cannot get wrapped around the prop. I have experimented with different towing eye heights and I cannot tell the difference. Remember that with the shorter waterline length of the tender she will squat, giving a bow up attitude when the towing vessel is reaching hull speed. Living aboard and using the tender every day except when on a passage, I noticed that after 5 years that there was some wear on the painter where it passed through the bow. I untied the stopper knot and cut off 6" and after retying it I had another 5 years before I needed to do it again. I believe that a metal connection would need replacing by then. After 15 years of full time use I believe that this method met requirements of being functional, reliable and cheap. If you want to go with the conventional bow eye, have at it, it is a small deal.
  13. almost finished my marissa eco18 need answers

    If you buy three 6 gallon portable fuel tanks you have paid for a 18 gallon tank. I like to have 25% reserve fuel on a trip in case the weather turns foul on me and my fuel economy goes to hell and I need the reserve to get home. The fuel down in the bilge is out of the way, cannot move and gives the boat the maximum stability. Portable tanks can be in the way and may be moved to the stern to be more out of the way and not put the boat in the ideal trim for optimum efficiency. You do not have fill the tank up if you are going on a short trip. If you are running at about 4000 rpm you will burn about 2 gallons an hour which is only 9 hours run without counting your reserve. Run faster and you will burn a lot more.
  14. It is that time again. The crew have been working very hard preparing for the Family Boat Building program at Mystic. We are leaving tomorrow as the show runs from Friday through Sunday. We are also taking Carlita to display.
  15. Texas 200

    Alex, I did use both vanes. With the winds mostly fresh, the small vane had plenty of power.
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