Jump to content
Malwarebytes Endpoint Security
Advanced endpoint protection (affiliate link).

Designer

Members
  • Content count

    1,438
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    81

Designer last won the day on July 15

Designer had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

161 Excellent

About Designer

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Vandemere, NC
  1. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Bill, I like the idea and I am going to look into it. While I am fussy about my nav lights I am more interested in being seen by a power boat running faster than common sense should dictate, not to mention an aggressive marine patrol cop. I do not care about meeting the 2 mile rule but would prefer to light up some of the boat with the light rather than looking like a star at the top of the mast. I had a coastal freighter captain once tell me that he only saw me anchored in an open roadstead at the last minute as he thought that my masthead light was a star. I once had a client who was asleep in his 38 foot Garden ketch in a designated anchorage with his mast head light on. He was thrown out of his bunk when a Sea Ox ran into him at full speed. The Sea Ox climbed up and over the rather high freeboard and tore up the mizzen mast and drove the entire cabin forward a couple of inches. The client was okay after getting stitches for the gash over his right eye. The ketch was totaled due to neglect and incompetence over a long protracted law suit. Like Steve I mostly anchor in out of the way places but that is not always possible. My recent cruise in the Pacific Northwest was an example. With their high tides and signs in some places showing EEL GRASS, NO ANCHORING. The shoreline is often boulders or cliffs.
  2. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    I really liked Jays light but it was priced above my comfort zone. I trolled the cruising forums for owner satisfaction and found that there was a high failure rate with expensive return freight and time delays. I am glad that Jay has had good service from his light, hopefully they have corrected the problem. Beside the two wire feature It was small and light. I had not heard of Chick's light when I bought mine. I chose Aqua-Signal because they have a good reputation and warranty and the light is very strong and our local wholesaler delivers them free. The downside is that they are very tall, even taller with the anchor light. They have a clever removal system which I removed and modified to reduce the height. By modifying my light I probably voided my warranty but I was impressed with how well it was potted in epoxy. I did test that the light did indeed work before I messed with it. It has been very good so far but having an anchor light built in would be nice. Yes I do account for the tabernacle offset when installing the track.
  3. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Coast Guard or not, you really want to set up your nav lights as accurate as you can. You want to let other craft know what type of vessel you are and what your heading is so that they and you can take appropriate action. The tabernacle does prevent mast rotation but remember that we wedge the tabernacle 2 degrees so that the main mast comes down clear of the mizzen mast, I like to account for that.
  4. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Steve, You forgot about the real estate on top of the main mast. We have been using a LED tricolor. The brands and pricing have probably changed since. I have been using one from Germany, I think that Jay's is from England and Chicks is from Argentina. The captain of a Port Townsend ferry said that mine looked highly visible.
  5. Ocracoke 20 in OZ

    The rub rail, gunwale, guard or whatever you want to call it is a very critical part of the boat and if not done well can spoil the look of an otherwise good boat. Beyond protecting the boat from accidental bumps against docks and anything else in it's path it is the visual break between the hull and the deck and it is right at eye line and is probably the most critical line on a boat. It is further compounded by the fact that it can be fairly difficult to do especially on boats with a lot of flair. The sheer line needs to be fair, both in plan view and profile. On a boat like we are discussing here we need to protect the wood gunwale. This is normally done with a metal half oval which can be done with solid back or hollow back. I prefer hollow-back on a boat this size because it is about 1/3 the weight and at least 1/3 the cost even though it is not as strong. Hollowback can be improved by rounding the gunwale face so that it is has more bearing on the wood. Once we decide on the width of the protective strip we have a starting point for our gunwale design. The next will be the thickness of our wood followed by how we are going to blend with deck followed by whether we will shape the boat to the gunwale or the gunwale to the boat. I prefer to set the gunwale below the deck edge by a little less than the thickness of the ply decking. I have tried many times to make the gunwale top a continuous smooth line to the deck and have usually been disappointed with the results especially on bright finished boats. If there is any movement in either the deck or gunwale it will show big time, not to mention that the tiniest bit of an unfair line in the sheer will show. On this boat I like to glass the deck and over the edge to the hull. This requires a good round over so that the glass will not bubble. The raw end grain is well protected from water ingress not to mention the hard use that the deck will get. If after the the deck is rounded over and glassed, you find some slight unfairness while installing the gunwale you can average out the variations by installing the gunwale with a nice, sweet, fair line which the eye will catch. Thus, the slight variations of the rounded over deck edge will not easily be discernable. Because this boat has a lot of flare and the deck edge has a lot of shape forward it is easier to shape the hull rather than the gunwale in the bow section. This means that the gunwales only have to be bent rather than bent and twisted. Once I decide on the gunwale section section shape, I plane a vertical surface to width of the gunwale height. This means that the gunwale section can be constant in the forward section and the outside surface will be vertical which will work best as a bumper. Of course, this is easier said than done with the boat still upside down because you do not know how fair the sheer line actually is until you turn the boat over and clean it up. I have spent a lot of time with my head down around my ankles trying to sight the upside down fairness of the sheer line; but it is hard to tell how much the inwale needs shaping for the deck camber and see if the inwale sagged between any of the stations. Where there is tumblehome, I bevel the lower inside edge of the gunwale so that the outside of the gunwale stays vertical like the forward section. You can dress the outside edge of the gunwale slightly after it is installed, if this is necessary to make it look uniform. All of this needs to be decided on before glassing as it is hard and unproductive to plane or re-fair glass later on. I like to bevel the underside of the gunwale up by about 15 - 20 degrees so it matches the rub rail on the outer edge, but you still have a lot of bearing against the planking. This keeps the gunwale from looking visually heavy. On this boat I usually use 1" stainless steel hollow-back with a slight round above and below the metal. This sets the vertical height for the outside and I work out the section shape from there. The top edge can be horizontal or angled slightly up towards the deck. Some builders like to use a lot of filler and fair the underside of the gunwale so that it ends up with a continuous fair line with the hull. This is where you can inject your own personality into the boat. Take notice of Oyster's comment on print-thru. I take it one step further, especially if I am going to paint the boat a dark colour. I like to put the boat out in the weather for at least a week before priming to get worst of the print-thru over before painting.
  6. CS17 #339 launched

    Great job and congratulations for getting it done. Seeing that you live only a few hours west of us, you are welcome to bring the boat down and sail it in our waters any time. You do not have to wait for the messabout. Even though our northern friends have put their boats to bed for the winter, we get a lot of good sailing at this time of the year.
  7. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Chick, Have you considered trying to sheet the mizzen from the gallows. If you could make it work, the sheet would be above everything.
  8. 3/4" PLYWOOD V. 5/8"

    Ron, You could use 1/2" ply on the bottom with 1708 if you use meranti instead of okume. Besides being stronger than okume it is also more durable and cheaper. It will probably come out slightly heavier than 5/8" okume with 10 oz glass but you will have a tougher bottom skin and if you have to add some weight at least it is as low as you can get it.
  9. 3/4" PLYWOOD V. 5/8"

    It is tough when you cannot get what you need. As Par said 3/4" ply can be difficult to bend, so is 5/8" but that little extra 1/8" will make make you work for it. Fortunately the bend is not too severe. The brake from sheet the diagonal planking was chosen for economy and convenience. The sheet planking (white)is two sheets long and the forward edge is cut back at 30 degrees to reduce the amount of bend required at the chine and it is about the ideal angle for the bow planking (see arrow in picture). The bend should not be a problem at the keel line as it is less than at the chine and you have something solid to clamp to. The chine edge will be more difficult. One tactic would be not cut back the 30 degree angle until after the bottom is glued to the chine. This will give you a lot of extra leverage and keep the bottom fair as it is almost impossible to get a curve in the end of a stiff board. If you cannot get it to bend for you you can cut back the line of the solid bottom to where it will work for you. Your other alternative is to double or triple plank the entire bottom. Or you can put down a layer of 3/8" ply and then glue on a 1/4" layer.
  10. B&B Messabout 2017

    Here is some more.
  11. B&B Messabout 2017

    Oyster, It was a pleasure to have you both visit. Chloe sure was cute sailing that little box around. Here a couple of pictures to start with. The camp fire on Saturday night. Steve sure plays a mean guitar and harmonica and Bob can belt out a shanty. Alan sailing Carlita with family. Forrest and sue on a Spindrift 12 Bill brought his Ocracoke 20
  12. Core Sound 17 Questions

    The flagpoles make terrible masts. As has been pointed out, they use a softer grade of aluminum to allow them to be able to spin taper the pole. They have to use the same heavy wall thickness all the way to the top. In fact the act of spin tapering actually forces the wall thickness to increase which is why the center of gravity is so high on flag pole masts. We are able to calculate the loads on the mast at different heights and reduce the diameter and wall thickness as required.
  13. We are off to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival in Washington State. We are off in the morning. The First leg is to Drummond Island In Northern Michigan where I will visit Gordy who now has a summer place there. I will get to sail in the northern Great Lakes for about a week before pushing west. Maybe Gordy will catch some of those fish that he talks about I am looking forward to catching up with our west coast group. It is a long haul of about 7,000 miles round trip the way I am going. We will see if the little Golf is up to the task. Beth has been hard at work dressing her up with revarnishing and finishing some top coat and I have completed the dodger and the Micro nesting dinghy. Alan should have uploaded the video of assembling the Micro in the water by now. It is easier to assemble than we had hoped and rows pretty well too. It took Alan just under 30 seconds to put it together and no water in the boat. With 1/2" hollow back down the keel and fendering all around, the front half came out right at 25# and the aft half weighs 20#. Carlita must be about the smallest boat to carry a hard dinghy on deck. It actually fits pretty well and I can go forward easier with it on board than without. I have been too busy to get some pictures of the dodger but I will get some along the way.
  14. Marissa # 63

    About the only improvement that I can see would be a Marissa under construction in that shop. Because the Marissa backbone slots together there is no conventional building jig. She is built on a pair of saw horses. They are about 43" wide with the aft one 36 5/8" high and the forward one 35" high and are setup 100" apart. All of this is not critical. I built hull #1 on a pair of 55 gallon drums with a pair 2 by's across the drums and a pair fore and aft to rest the cockpit sole on. The main deal is to pack the cockpit sole so that it is flat and pitches up 1 degree aft for drainage. Remember we are talking about the boat upside down which means that the cockpit will pitch down aft for drainage when turned upright. The stem is extended down to the floor and fixed as well frame extensions. On a concrete floor like you have, I usually epoxy down some short lengths of 2 x 4 to screw the stem and frame extensions. It is not hard to grind off the epoxy and repaint the floor after the build.
  15. A "micro" tender for Carlita

    Chick, I can't let you have all of the fun. By the way, I have not seen anything about your new motor canoe. Don that round disc was to reinforce the nesting bulkhead hardware. We are now thinking of eliminating it.
×