richard

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About richard

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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  1. Thanks Simon, If the weekender keel is thick enough with 2 3/4 inch layers, so will be the weekenderkeel with 2 times 22 mm (7/8). How thick and large is the T-piece on top of your keel? I suppose it is also in some sort of hardwood and glued and screwed on the keel? Richard
  2. Thanks folks Richard
  3. According the plans the stringers should be attached to the bottom before installing it on the keel. Is it not more simple to put first the bottom on the keel and then the stringers? (easier to bend bottom) Richard
  4. It is not because it hasn't been done before that it could not work. Consider this as a testcase - I keep you informed about the results. Can anyone describe me briefly how the keel of the pocketcruiser is made? Richard
  5. I think Lauan is not a softwood. I intend to fillet the bottom to the keel with epoxy, which is to my experience very strong. I will make the bottom with only 2 pieces cut from one 4 x 8 and one 5 x 10 plywood board (readily available here). The keel is almost finished and it seems very strong. As I said, I can always add a thin layer both sides afterwards when needed. Richard
  6. I'll try with 2 layers - am pretty sure this is enough in plywood. I can eventually add a thin layer on each side later. I suppose the 3 layers is from the days there was a centerboard incorporated in the middle layer. I've seen some pictures of trailers where the boat is not resting on the keel but on the bottom. Richard
  7. Hi all, My name is Richard Peeters and I am starting to build a (modified) WEEKENDER. I am living in Belgium, about 15 miles east of Brussels and I am working as an air traffic controller instructor at Brussels national airport. This is my second attempt to build a boat. I am deviating a bit from the plans for several reasons, some of them inspired by things I read in the different forums. All plywood I use is lauan exterior (good stuff
  8. John wrote: Richard, how will you deal with the stem and stern attachments? I'm referring to how the three pieces overlap to support each other. Hi John, That's an easy one. I uses 2 panels 4' x 8' and made one layer in 3 pieces. tHan I made the 2d layer, again in 3 pieces, but shifted a bit, so the borders do not coincide. Richard
  9. Thanks Dave, Are there more of those things in the plans?? Where can I find Terry's website? Richard
  10. On page 6 - illustration 4 of the weekender bottom they state that the overall bottem length is 155 3/4 inch. When I make the total I arrive at 159 1/2 inch (13 x 12 +2 1/4 + 1 1/4) Where that difference and what is correct? What are the correct measurements between station 13 and 14? According the drawing it is 2 1/4 but i suspect it to be 2 1/4 + 1 1/4 Richard
  11. I am building my keel in plywood - 22 mm thick. I do not need 3 layers because I can overlap with two layers since there are less pieces. Do you think that 2 layers, giving 44 mm thickness is strong enough or should I add a 10 mm layer to get to 54 mm (as in the plans)? What about a small aluminium strip on the keel bottom to protect it? This is cheap, available, can be screwed on and replaced easily when needed. Richard
  12. I am also making my keel in plywood - 3 layers of 22 mm. I intend to put a hardwood strip on it when finished Any comment? Richard
  13. John, Can you clarify a bit on this enlargement? Richard
  14. Thanks folks, I think I will first build it without ballast and see afterwards Richard
  15. Followed Ray's your story about the ballast with much interest. I am just starting to build my weekender - just 1 layer of the keel done. What do you think about replacing part of the inner layer of the keel with ballast (iron plates). There is room enough and it avoids messing up of the hydrodynamics of the keel shape. The problem is where to put the ballast - start and stop station?? I can always finetune inside on the bottom of the boat. Richard