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JPower210

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JPower210 last won the day on December 6 2016

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About JPower210

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/10/1967

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    Male
  • Location
    Beaufort, NC
  • Interests
    Anything water.... and two little ones.
  1. I've built a few of these- I'd build a 2x10 frame the size you want, with couple of cross pieces, spaced so the blocks fit inside the frame. I'd hold the blocks in with some lawn chair webbing. I'd deck it with pressure treated decking. I'd mount a few cleats for convenience, and on the side you want to pull the boat up, I'd either make a roller out of pvc pipe, or even more simply, get some of the angle dock trim that is made out of white rubber. Use the white or it will leave ugly marks on the hull. Carpet is your choice, but I would leave it off so it does not hold moisture against the wood. If you want to get really fancy, a couple of custom fitted chocks for the boat would be elegant. Good luck!
  2. Yeah, what he said
  3. I have about three feet of overhang on mine and don't worry about it too much- I do take my motor off for trailering though since it just seems like it is not a smart idea to add that weight cantilevered over the end-
  4. Thanks Par- Those are helpful resources. I am pretty comfortable with most of the descriptions, and uses, but still have questions when it comes to some of the more arcane descriptions, like style numbers. But, I think I found some answers by going to the fiberglass cloth manufacturer website versus the retailers. JP
  5. Does anyone know of a good source for fiberglass cloth info? For example, what's the difference between 1800 and 7500 "style" mean in 10 oz. cloth? I have been googling, but have not found a good comprehensive guide. Thanks! JP
  6. Hi Tom- I did not thru bolt on mine, but did drill the holes oversize, fill with epoxy, and redrill for the hardware. No problems to date. JP
  7. Greendane- in case it has not been mentioned, be sure to scrub any new epoxy, between coats if they cured, or the final coat if you put the coats on green, with a scotch brite pad and some warm water to get rid of any blush.
  8. Hey Will- my thoughts...FWIW... 1. Yes 2. Whatever you like for a color scheme works. I tend to lean towards not too stark contrasts, for example, my big boat has white decks, and a light gray non skid. Other thing to consider is the darker the color on areas that you sit/stand on, the warmer they become. May not be an issue where you are. 3. Such a personal choice... I tend to lean towards the classic combos, but that is just my taste- I tend not to like red or yellow boats, but man there a few really nice looking 17's in red and yellow. Great thing about paint is, if you decide you don't like the scheme, you can always change it. 4. Flattening agents can work well- I have used with Awlgrip and don't think it changed the properties as long as you stay within their guidelines for amount. Do make sure that it is completely mixed in to avoid any streakiness. JP
  9. Looks great!!! I love the transom bright.
  10. Hi All- I am starting a new thread for my OB 20 kit build which I am finally getting around to starting. I am getting the jig/bulkheads/frames set up now, and will hopefully be starting on stringers shortly. Stay tuned for pictures and questions. I'll be fitting this build into a fairly hectic schedule, with two small kids, a refit on my Westsail 32 and trying to get some sailing time in on the CS17. And then there are the car/bike projects. And somewhere in there I have to work.... Fun stuff! JP
  11. I agree wholeheartedly here- if I were building my 17 right now, I think I would use the most rot resistant wood I could and just paint it. And bed it on the keel, with the idea that it would need to be removed at some point. I wonder if a piece of pressure treated might be good, but I would want to get some other opinions before I went that route.
  12. I ordered mine, as well as a lot of epoxy, from Raka.com. But most of the epoxy/glass suppliers have it. Dynel is similar, but some tests have shown that Xynole is a bit superior from an abrasion/impact standpoint. For the strip- you don't need a lot of screw to hold it- I think I used 3/4 inch screws. The joint at the two hull panels should have an epoxy fillet, as well as the thickness of the wood joining, to take and hold the screws. I pre drilled undersize, placed a blob of sealant and hand drove the screw to avoid stripping it out. No problems as of yet. For the keel- I ran my glass over the bottom seam, and then screwed the keel on- the keel got multiple layers of epoxy to seal, but, eventually it will be replaced as a maintenance item. I didn't like the idea of trying to make the glass or xynole wrap a 90 degree corner either. And the recommendations above about keel rollers make sense- my rollers are big enough that the keel can't hit metal as it comes on. I also found the addition of guide posts on the trailer helped a lot as I typically sail single handed and the wind always seems to want to blow my boat out of line when I am taking it out of the water. Hope that helps!
  13. Unfortunately, it does not sand as easily...but I found that it is worth the hassle, and just takes a bit of a different work plan. I used a bit more epoxy to make sure that I did not end up sanding into the cloth, (which is a benefit for this application in my mind), and I used a flame to heat seal the "fuzzies" when needed. It's also a lot friendlier to work with from a cloth standpoint, draping easier and no itch. It's a lot like a loose weave tshirt fabric. I wouldn't use it in a very weight sensitive application due to the extra epoxy required, but a few extra pounds on my 17 were worth the reduced maintenance and extra toughness. I am incorporating it into some of the other projects I am working on as well- right now on a OB 20 that I have started.
  14. That doesn't look like a fun job, but I bet when you actually get into it it won't be as bad as you think- I'll add another suggestion- when you add some glass on the bow, consider Xynole- I used it for the bottom of my 17 and have been impressed with it's ability to stand up to beaching better than regular fiberglass. And I'd definitely consider a metal strip, half round or hollow back running down the stem to the keel.
  15. The other option would be to talk with Alan and order a mast kit- Mine went together pretty fast, and I spend more time fairing the joints than I should have. The track that B and B is providing works slick!