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  1. 1 point
    First layer of epoxy primer sprayed !
  2. 1 point
    The Tyvek stops any thing bonding to the floor as i have not sealed it yet. Probly never will either Thx for the compliments also. Lotus your Marissa build is what tipped the scale for me , you did a bangup job sir. I have a lot of time on my hands at the minite so it should progress in a timely fashion
  3. 1 point
    After about 40 hours of building, IT FLOATS!!!!
  4. 1 point
    My Stonefly hit the water this weekend. The good news is I did not get wet, except for my feet. The craft at first was a bit tender for my experience, but I soon settled in. I like it!! Exactly what I hoped for. A canoe I can pull with my bike and take my dog Dolly. It all came together. I also want to give 5 stars to the 6 oz premium fabric Jeff sells. Takes some effort to pull it wrinkle free, but once you are there this stuff is smooth and drum tight. 4 coats of Rustoleum, and leak free. Good paddling to all, Greg
  5. 1 point
    Great story......and thanks for the large font
  6. 1 point
    Thanks guys, The side stringer bending went well and is almost complete. I steamed the some of the pieces that had the most acute bends and twists. I also tried the hot, wet towel alternative, just for grins. It worked too and is quicker. Ken, after asking the questions, I revisited your photo link and answered them for myself. My wife got a kick out of your steamer set up. She says watching boat builders is like watching reruns of Macgyver. Your link is great; can't wait to watch how you proceed, now that the boat is flipped over. JP, staples sounds like a great way to go, but don't you have to snug up the planks with screws and battens before stapling anyway? I'm not quite there yet, so I'm just visualizing, but it doesn't seem that I could press a stapler hard enough to forego the screws. Also, I found a plastic oil transfer pump at Harbor Freight for $7.00 and will see how they work on moving epoxy from five gallon containers to one gallon pump jugs. Looking forward to planking. Carter
  7. 1 point
    Last weekend (August 5) Craig and Colleen Ligibel hosted a BBQ for members of the Chesapeak CatBoat Association at their home in Annapolis. "Chessie" made her "coming out" at the occasion. She received many compliments and invites to future events. A good time was had by all. Fellow members of the Chesapeake CatBoat Association honoring Chessie's "coming out." Chessie and her builder. Chessie's cabin interior showing her afghan & bunk pillow with the sails stowed (battens in place) on starboard birth. Builder Pete McCrary and best friend, occasional boat-building helper, and wife Annie feeling good at Chessie's "coming out." Our gracious hosts Craig and Colleen Ligibel. We next trailed Chessie down to Lusby, Maryland, for a weekend visit with son Jim and family. Jim has just accepted a position teaching physics at the College of Southern Maryland. Now, hopefully, we will get some fair sailing weather. I'll be taking pictures as opportunities arise.
  8. 1 point
    My first build I wanted a good stable boat for photography purposes I have yet to see how well it goes launch day Saturday. The stringers and trim are all made from Totara an indigenous wood that was traditionally used by the Maori for carving their dugouts from. It is very durable and quite light albeit has a tendency to split. Hoping to be able to get to some interesting locations and do some water bird photography too. Check out my photography at http://rodsphotoscapes.co.nz/
  9. 1 point
    Mine is #63. Yes that is why i purchased it. I can build it in my shop, outfit it myself and when finished i can run it without having to take a second mortgage in adition to having the satisfaction of having built it myself. I did a lot of research and a similar glass boat outfitted the way i am planning would be at least 30k which i find obsurd
  10. 1 point
    Keep in mind that Marine grade has nothing to do with strength of the plywood. As much as I hate it, US plywood is typically garbage. It is one thing I always buy imported.
  11. 1 point
    Pictures of "Comet" my Kudzu Vardo kayak on its maiden voyage! Initial impressions were favorable; the kayak accelerates at a decent rate, easily holds her cruise speed and tracks straight and true. My getting into and out of Comet will need improvement! Overall she's a fun kayak. My daughter Laura painted some pacific northwest American Indian art on my kayak.
  12. 1 point
    Sorry about your misfortune, but the plywood is probably exactly what is was sold as. The designation "marine" simply means that the glue is designed to withstand prolonged submersion and the wood had been treated for rot resistance. If it is marine Fir plywood it is structurally no better than CD ext. plywood sold as sheathing. The designation marine in no way addresses the structural characteristics required to build a frame for a SOF kayak. Actually, no plywood is designed for such use. Baltic Birch cabinet grade ply and BS 1088 plys of several species do however work very well. Like the material Jeff sells for skinning, none of these are designed for SOF, but much trial and error shows they work well. These plywoods work well because of the number of layers and the integrity of them (lack of voids, lack of knots, lack of open seems, etc.) I hope you try again.
  13. 1 point
    I can't speak for that exact trailer but I have my 11N on a PWC trailer and it works great. Mines a little different and I built a rack above it so I can load a Sunfish we have and haul the two to the water.
  14. 1 point
    It's been many months (November) since I started work on my OB20. I didn't expect "life" to get in the way quite so boldly, but it did. I'm back at it now, with the bottom and some of the side stringers on...and a couple of items that I could use help with. Ken recommended steaming the forward sections of the shear clamp. I built a steam box and have experimented some. It's interesting how some species will hardly budge and others become wet noodles. I'm guessing that you don't glue hot/wet wood , but mechanically fasten it and hope that it stays put when dry and can be glued afterwards. Ken, you bent and installed one piece of the three piece shear clamp at a time, correct? When I bought the OB kit, it shipped with several 1 and 5 gallon containers of epoxy. Transferring the 1 gallon containers into the pump jugs via funnel wasn't too bad, but I can see me getting pretty sticky attempting the same technique with the big ones. There must be pumps, or something, for that? A couple of months ago, my wife and I were visiting Washington DC on a vacation trip and made the short pilgrimage to North Carolina to visit B&B Yacht Designs. Unfortunately, Graham was away in Texas at a race, but Alan was there and spent two hours showing us the entire operation and answering every question we could think of. He made us feel very special and glad that we made the trip. A highlight of the tour was the opportunity to climb around on OB20 #1. It's a beauty. I regret not meeting Graham, but Alan is a super guy and a great representative of the business.. Hopefully, I'll be able to send a photo of some of the side planks going on soon. Carter
  15. 1 point
    And don't forget that "red right returning" is a bad idea pretty much everywhere except the US! I still wonder how us Murkins got that one backwards (or whether it was intentional).
  16. 1 point
    Thank you! The kayak is bright orange so the name Comet was selected after the orange Comet gold fish.
  17. 1 point
    I used the hole in the stem for the bow painter of my Spindrift. After hundreds of cruising miles towing it and never having to worry about being rammed by the eye I would never consider anything else. I use holes in the transom knees for the traveler and dock lines. I'm a huge KISS fan.
  18. 1 point
    Short addition re "sausage bags:" I rolled up both sails, put one bag over one end of both sails and the other bag over the other end of both sails. Quasi-sausage. As someone said, saves putting in the battens, which was a very fussy and time consuming job, and the sails are ready to be put right on to the sail tracks with a simple unroll.
  19. 1 point
    Sorry Dave. I just saw your post. The bag is a little longer than the longest batten and has a zipper all the way down the side. I lower the sail and tie about 3 "gaskets" (if that's the right term---if memory serves) (Ahhh, just call'em a 3 pieces of rope) around the sail to keep it from falling all over the place. Then it just lays in the bag and I zip-it-up. Both sails/bags stow below in the cabin. I love 'em!
  20. 1 point
    Thanks. I widened the trunk by an extra 1/8" before putting it in. I was worried about the centerboard sticking. Routing the centerboard slot went really well. Using a trick from another guy on here, I leveled the sawhorses in the port/starboard direction and then flipped the boat over onto them. I then set the router on the centerline and leveled it using shims between the router base and the hull. I marked the shims and taped them onto the router based and then attached the edge trimmer. A picture is worth a thousand words: Next, I used the round-over bit. That went less-well, but my screw-ups can be fixed easily and will be glassed-over anyway: I think I'm going to put on the keel, coat it with 3 coats of epoxy, and then splash it. I need to add oar locks as well. I'll paint the outside in the coming weeks.
  21. 1 point
    The Tohatsu 3.5 was mounted yesterday. Should be long enough. The bracket (made for the Suzuki 2.5) needed a slight modification for immediate use. However, in order to reverse (180 degree), the tilt had to be moved out of its 1st notch. So the shaft isn't quite verticle. If this shows to be a problem, then a replacement bracket will be a winter project. Forward. Reverse. There is a "tilting lock-pin" rather than a spring-loaded latch. I like it much better. Easily seen and much more secure. I'll feel safe trailering with the OBM tilted in the UP position. The longer shaft would drag pulling into a gas station or driveway if there is even a slight dip at the entry. Here's a pix of the pin: Below is a pix of the modification to accommodate its position and motion. We're getting close to our 1st "shake-down" cruise -- so I've designed the "badges" for "Chessie's" name at the bow on the sheer strakes. Shown below is the pattern for the port-side badge: The starboard-side is on the reverse of the pattern. It will show the anchor, but a dolphin will replace the seahorse. The images and lettering will be computer routed on 9/32" mahogany planks that I've ordered from our local hardwood dealer. Oops! Didn't know these would be published. So, anyway, on July 11 Annie and I celebrated our 58th anniversary! I suppose after each of us buying a greeting card for each other 58 times we would eventually buy IDENTICAL cards to trade. The toe rails were dry-fitted today. Tomorrow they go on. We do the shake down cruise the next day that it's not too hot.
  22. 1 point
    Lenm, I've seen it both ways. Smooth is the look I want, so I'll be installing ceilings. It's the last large scale fairing project and honestly, I'm not looking forward to it.
  23. 1 point
    Be sure to glass over the edge and down into the trunk when you route the slot. Tiger and PAR know what they're doing!
  24. 1 point
    One way or the other, you will need to fair that hull, which has some curves on it. The bottom not so much.. Its one thing if you think you can get by with one layer that will create a fair surface. But the notch method saves you a load of work when doing your initial fairing, along with materials. Then when you go back and apply the second layer onto the notch layer and then sand, the notch layer will actually show if you down thru the new layer and tell you how deep you have gone and if you end up with some low or high spots.
  25. 1 point
    This is bringing back memories. I used 5/4 douglas fir for mine, and cut the orientation of the grain so it would bend easier. I used temporary drywall screws to hold them down as the epoxy putty set. Paul has the idea, skip them entirely and do a layup of a couple layers of 12 oz. biaxial cloth set in epoxy. It will give you another inch of space under the forward seating area, and make it easier to keep clean, and also still serve to support the thinner ply at the bend of the hull.
  26. 1 point
    Christening with Spotted Cow poured down the centerboard trunk (Namesake daughter is a dairy veterinarian) christening.htm
  27. 1 point
    Chick has it and I think he's talking about the diagonal bow reinforcement battens used in the mk1 model. If this is the case Batman, just move them around until the lie down. As Chick mentioned, plywood can only bend in one direction (okay, in theory), so by changing the angle a little, it find its happy place. On my CS-17 build I elected to just reinforce the area with biax (no battens). I use a couple of layers of 12 ounce, covering the whole of the forward bulkhead area, from just above the chine and down. I considered this lighter and neater, than the battens.
  28. 1 point
    Got the sails up in the driveway Friday! Very close. Hope to sail this week, or at least if the wind stops nuking. Thanks for asking, Lennie, much appreciated. Life seems to have a habit of getting in the way, even in retirement. Who knew. On the other hand, some of those interruptions are the happiest ever. Here's 7-week grandson come 1,000 mi to help.
  29. 1 point
    A guy in Good Old Boat wrote recently that there's never a final coat of varnish, only the most recent coat waiting for a sanding before the final coat. I'm with him.
  30. 0 points
    Yeah, I can't find the settings. Guess I'm getting old because I keep thinking it didn't used to be this hard to find a setting! I may have to just install the default theme again and start from there.