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  1. 3 likes
    I finally launched the kayak yesterday after almost a year of interruptions during the build. It was very good to be on the water again. I had nearly perfect conditions for Lake Mead- light winds, temperature in the low 80's, and the water temperature was 75 degrees. I made several short paddles to get the seat, back band, and foot rests adjusted, then paddled for close to 2 miles. I'm pleased with the performance of the boat and look forward to many more miles in the future. Thanks Jeff !!!
  2. 2 likes
    You do realize with this level of craftsmanship, the kitchen remodel that's on her mind, will need to be more and more elaborate and expectations much higher. Show her a few hammer bruises and broken setup screws, in a likely vain attempt to save the day.
  3. 2 likes
    Hi all, Here are some pictures and a quick write up of the sprit sail I made last year for our spindrift. One picture shows the sail furled up by letting the snotter go and wrapping the sail up with a bungee. This is from short camping trip we took at the west end of Kamloops lake last weekend. Why I wanted to have something that would: Use a short mast and spar that would be easy to pack up and haul Be quick and easy to set up Be easy to sail Be easy to get out of the way if I wanted to stop and fish Be easy and cheap to make with readily available materials - this was a "proof of concept" and not intended for long term use How was interested in a balanced lug rig (and still am) but had trouble figuring out how to do it. In the end I read more about sprit rigs and, after getting a bit hooked on some of those youtube videos of Thames barges, decided to give one a go. Since it is an experiment I've used very cheap materials and I'll see how the set up lasts, then replace it with some better when I've learned more about it. For the first go I downloaded the free plans for the D4 dinghy (http://bateau.com/freeplans.php), and scaled up the sail dimensions to get a sail area about the same as the stock sail. I got a decent quality tarp from Princess Auto, laid it out using the existing edges where possible, then used double sided carpet tape to make the remaining hems. When I was all done I did sew the edges, but I'm not sure that was necessary or better - the carpet tape was pretty good stuff. I reinforced all the corners with three additional plies. I got two 12' 2x4's from a lumber yard, ripped four square sections from them and glued them together to make the mast. I used titebond 3 to glue them. I made the mast round with a plane and spokeshave. The bottom section where the mast fits into the boat got lots of attention and is pretty round, the rest of the mast got eyeballed. The sprit is the remainder of one of the 2x4's the mast is made of, the snotter passes though a hole near the end of the sprit then is fastened to a clam cleat a little ways up the sprit - it hasn't come loose yet. Initially I used some cheap blocks from Princess Auto for rigging, but I've since started using a couple of nice blocks I got from a real sailing store, quite an improvement! So I have about $70 in the two blocks, and $45 in the tarp, wood and cordage. Observations 1. At first I didn't check sail's centre of effort. I have done since, and it is further back than the stock sail design. Though it is not terrible, I do find the boat tends to round up in gusts a little more than it really should. 2. We reefed the sail by connecting the sprit to a grommet halfway down the leech, then bungeed the peak to the tack. This arrangement worked well, but the wind quick got weaker and the reefed sail shape was not very efficient. 3. The loose footed sail is great in flukey winds when you want to row for a stretch and leave the sail in place. Also good for sailing with little kids that don't appreciate getting wacked on the noggin. 4. The loose footed sail has a lot of twist. I don't have the experience to say what effect this has on performance but we did make almost five knots with one adult, one child and camping gear. I may try adding a sprit boom at some point in the future to see what difference that makes. 5. The rig is very quick to set up and take down, and easy to brail up if you want to stop to fish, for lunch etc. 6. So far this is working really well for us and I would do it again, but next time I will pay more attention to COE, and will probably get something from Sailrite that isn't green on one side and brown on the other. At the time I chose the better quality tarp over the better looking one! 7. I did this as an experiment, but both sail and mast seem to be wearing well. I used them all last summer, and I expect to get this summer out of them too. On average I get out about once a week from May to September. I sail on lakes and rivers in interior BC, and don't sail in very high winds. I hope this has been of some interest and/or use. Matt
  4. 2 likes
    The obvious answer is "Because it's my boat and I want to have fun with it - I didn't make the plywood either! (or the epoxy, etc.)" If someone really wants to be a purist they're going to have to scrape out a dugout canoe with a sharp rock and chew up some tobacco to stave off rot (or something like that). That's a perfectly valid way to go but it's not a requirement for a good boat.
  5. 2 likes
    So the final coat of epoxy is on. the bulk of the gray area is the first layer of glass cloth and filling the dips forward of the seams. You can pick out the triangle of Xynole inside of this gray patch. Now to wait for cure, scratch a bit and prime. One step at a time...
  6. 2 likes
    After reading all this good advice all I should probably add is - Don't Panic! Take it one step at a time and remember that if you mess anything up (like I frequently do) you can likely undo it with the judicious application of a sharp tool. If you look at it as a big overhaul of a boat hull it may seem intimidating but if you think of it as cutting out a flat piece of wood and replacing it (and then doing it again until you're done) it might be less daunting. Don't forget to come back here with pictures and questions. And you thought nobody was listening
  7. 2 likes
    Thanks, guys. Greendane, the trailer is a Karavan. I see there is a dealer in Tacoma. Let me know if you're looking for more info. This was the lightest model.
  8. 2 likes
    Mine came from growing up in St. Pete., Fla. As kids, we'd head off to the beach on the first warm spring day and get a good sunburn, then hide at home 'til it peeled. Then we'd do it all over again. By now, we had enough tan to last through summer. Every summer day in a boat or at the beach. No Sun tan lotion. Sunlight is healthy. Tan looks good. No time to smear messy goo on. Then, 40 years later, a soccer ball size melanoma tumor! Major surgery, but God encapsulated the tumor so it didn't spread. Docs said "a miracle". Wanted me to go to Duke University to find out why I'm still alive. God had things left for me to do for Him.
  9. 2 likes
    Just a reminder y'all. IT'S ALMOST TIME!!! April 21-23. Saddler's Creek, Lake Hartwell. Summer Breeze and I can't wait to see you all. Don either.
  10. 2 likes
    Obviously, I've already "launched", but tonight I get to call her "complete"!
  11. 1 like
    A perfect example of why documenting the internet is so important. The domain name lapsed so the rogue paddler website is no longer online and may have even been deleted other than what backups may or may not have been made by it's creator. All would be lost except you are in luck thanks to the work of the nonprofit group "Wayback Machine" https://archive.org/web/ (Wikipedia: Way Back Machine) who captures and saves website images for the public good and has been doing so since 1996. You can browse their backup image of the Rogue Paddler website by going here. https://web.archive.org/web/20161025055152/http://roguepaddler.com/coresound20.htm Thank you Wayback Machine. They have a donate page here. https://archive.org/donate/
  12. 1 like
    Wrapping your clamps (and tools) with plastic packageing tape can avoid a lot of goo chipping later. This can leave adhesive gum on them, when you remove the tape, but spirits can remove it easily enough. A plastic bag taped to your cordless drill, is a big help too.
  13. 1 like
    Hi All, I put up the sails for a mock-up of the rigging and here's what she looks like. That's Miss Melanie, and the boat is named "MellieMac." Still lots to do before we're ready for the water. Bob
  14. 1 like
    I guess we'll agree do disagree then
  15. 1 like
    It might be ok but I wouldn't do it. I just tilted the boat vertically and put a prop under the keel to hold it in place while I sanded and painted the inside. Very easy to do and very comfortable to work as well, without having to crouch down for hours on end.
  16. 1 like
    My rudder just lays in the bottom of the boat with the tiller attached. (One of these days I'm going to sew up a cover for it.). My sprits also lay in the bottom of the boat, but they get some padding. I bought a large diameter swimming noodle, and cut off four 3" lengths. I stick these on each ends of the sprits. Keeps them from hurting anything and vice versa. Hope that helps.
  17. 1 like
    Most fabric manufactures have their own system to ID the various fabrics, though some commonalities exist, such as with "combo" fabrics like 1708. This is a 17 ounce fabric that's lightly bonded to 8 ounce mat. 1800 suggests it a straight 18 ounce fabric. There are different types of fabrics too, just to add to the confusion, such as weave type, fiber orientation, etc. Generally, these fabrics fall into a few different categories: mat, woven cloth (like the material in your tee shirt), directional fabrics and combo fabrics (more than one fabric in the same roll). These get broken down into specifics, such as weight, fiber orientation, etc. http://www.diy-fiberglass-boat-repair.com/ http://www.shopmaninc.com/fiberglass.html Download the free "user's guides" from westsystem.com, the "epoxy book" from system three.com and the "boatbuilding handbook" from westsystem.com for a more comprehensive listing.
  18. 1 like
    Latest progress. I've sealed the interior of the aft hull with expoxy and mounted the seat tops. I then got the aft hull flipped and fiberglassed the whole thing. That went pretty smoothly. If you want to make cutting fiberglass cutting eash and get really clean cuts I recommend picking up a cloth cutting wheel from the local crafts store. Much easier than a pair of scissors or a razor blade. Putting on that first coat of epoxy really makes the boat looks so much better. I've put on the first filler coat of expoxy on the bottom since I took this picture and after I put on a second coat I'll take the boat off the saw horses so I can start filling in the sides and transom while they're facing up and can start fiberglassing the forward hull. -Hugh
  19. 1 like
    I love your simple approach to the problem, tfrei! I think it's definitely worth trying for a season. I really don't think that friction is a significant factor, since all the tension is supposed to be off the halyard when reefing. I love Ronstan's small Shocks. I use them on my dinghy (Cabin Boy) everywhere for blocks. They are slicker than your steel ring, but cost more-- about $8 each (https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ronstan--shock-sheaveless-block-red--14433684?recordNum=11). And they will reauire a short lashing for attaching them to the eye strap. Stick with what you've got. It's clever!
  20. 1 like
    There is another side to the kitchen debate, though - It's not always the husband who behaves... Shall we say differently? On occasion I have walked into the kitchen and discovered that there was an autopsy in progress.
  21. 1 like
    Very nice Len. Especially the curve at the stem.
  22. 1 like
  23. 1 like
    Being a designer myself, I understand the allure of making changes and "improvements", but with so many Kudzu designs surely you can find one that suits you. I did, bought the plans and am very satisfied. Everyone is motivated differently, though. Good luck with your project. - Ben
  24. 1 like
    You can post them. I do not support modifications because when you start changing a boats design, strange things can happen and it is no longer my boat.
  25. 1 like
    Again, 2 HP is all you need. If you put a 5 HP on it, she's just over powered and you're not really going any faster, just beating the water to a froth. The shape of Weekender limits her speed to about 6 MPH, so a bigger motor is just tossing more fuel into the tank, little else. The Weekender is a novice sailors boat. Why you managed to capsize her, I don't know, but you have to screw up pretty bad to do this. Typically, it's because you went out in way too much wind strength, for your skill level. On your first few sails, 5 to 8 knots, no more. It's damn hard to screw up bad enough to have anything more than a puff increase your heel angle in these wind strengths. Think of it as taking a race car out for the first time. If you start thinking about 200 MPH, you'll quickly find yourself in a world of hurt, but if you lazy around the track at 70 MPH, the worst that'll happen is you can bend a fender, as you get a feel for the car. As you gain confidence (this is what sailing is about BTW) you can considering pushing over 100 MPH or more appropriately, bigger wind strengths. Next time, take someone with you, so some positives can occur and your confidence can build. Light winds, until you have a clue about what to do, how to steer, which strings to pull, etc. In fact, learning to sail in very light wind strengths will make you a much better sailor, eventually. Instead of lessons, just stop down at the local sailing club and volunteer to be "crew" on someone's boat. They're always looking for victims, I mean additional crew. You'll learn very quickly how the boat is handled. Let them know you're a novice and a bit scared and hopefully you'll not get a Capt. Bligh for your first skipper. They'll show you what's up, how to steer, set and trim sails, etc., all for free too. Ask questions, just to remind them you're a novice and with some luck, you find an old fart that likes the idea of getting yet another hooked on the sport, maybe in his image.
  26. 1 like
    You're getting close. Nice work. Paint soon!
  27. 1 like
    Pick up a cheap Harbor Freight oscillating multi tool and use this to cut the case free. You should be able to angle it into the hard to reach spaces, freeing the thwart, stringer, even the bulkhead and seat top from the case. Of course, you can remove it in pieces, which will make things easier. These multi tools tend to make much less dust than rotary tools and you can plunge cut stuff, flush with surrounding areas easily. As previously mentioned, it's best to build the case separately on a bench, so you can insure it's straight, square and plumb, with a perpendicular pivot bolt hole. Once you're sure, disassemble it and fit the pieces into the boat. I know you're a bit intimidated, but this isn't all that bad a repair. Sliding in a new case will be easiest if you can remove the thwart, though you could sneak it under if necessary.
  28. 1 like
    Time to add more pictures. For nonskid, I bought a quarter-pint of SoftSand rubber particles (coarse grain) which is enough for a quart of paint. $10. I'll post pictures when I'm done with it. Here are the glued seat tops, ready for installation. I sanded the epoxy where they contact the stringers in preparation for gluing. While they were dry-fit in the boat, I used a staple gun to hold the panels together in their positions while I glued the butt-blocks in-situ. I glued the butt blocks by laying some 3/4" solid wood covered in plastic across the stringers and put the butt-blocks on top of the solid wood and laid the panels on the butt-blocks with some weight to add clamping pressure. Gluing the butt-blocks in-situ maintains the dry fit. Finally gluing-down the seat tops. I did it just like Alan did in his CS15 video, using brad nails where I felt space between the seat stringers and the seat tops. Here, applying epoxy from a squeeze bag and spreading it with a West 809 spreader was very effective. Say what you want about 5 lb dumbells, but you never know when you'll need them. This is a picture of the staples used to maintain the spacings from the dry-fit. Current status: seat tops and foredeck have been filleted and taped. I just leveld the boat fore and aft with a water level (clear acrylic tubing attached to the bow and where the transom meets the gunwales with water poured up to the level of where the gunwales meet the transom) and a $30 laser level, finding a 1/8" disagreement between the two methods. I put the Beckson deckplates in with epoxy. After painting, I need to check the compartments for air tightness. Does anyone have a good method of doing this? The last thing I need is for this boat to sink. I think Don(?) mentioned filleting with a plastic spoon on another thread. I tried this with the seat tops and foredeck. It's an excellent way of getting the epoxy out of the pot and onto the boat and creating initial fillets. It's particularly good for scraping off the lines of excess epoxy created by filleting. I found that the spoon didn't give enough volume to the fillets for an the angle of plywood I was trying to fillet. I still had to go back and add volume to the fillets with a B and B filleting stick. Still, the method speeds up the process greatly and makes it much easier to do the final cleanup of epoxy with a putty knife.
  29. 1 like
    Well, she didn't get all misty but I did get a kiss.
  30. 1 like
    If the paints are the same type (alkyd, acrylic, LPU, etc.) you can mix a little of the finish color into the primer to get it closer to the finish color. I do this often to ease the issue you've mentioned. I use a few different color primers, though typically I need a couple of final coats, to level things off and this is when I'll tint the primer with the appropriate color.
  31. 1 like
    Aft deck on and drying...kinda glad I bought the 25 ft run of bungee when I only needed 4 ft. 😉
  32. 1 like
    I'm probably the king of panicking and I second this advice. Trust me, if I can get most of the way through a boat build you can put in a new centerboard trunk.
  33. 1 like
    Since I last posted I did a fill coat on the interior fiberglass seems and flipped the boat and rounded the chines and filled in all the holes. Now everything is nice and smooooth. I've also started work on the dagger board. The next step is flipping it back over and chopping it in half. After the plane my second favorite wood working tool is my soldering iron. If any of your temporary (or permanent) screws get epoxied in you can just heat up the screw with the soldering iron and the screws come right out. You can also use it to remove globs of hardened epoxy. A lot less work then trying to sand them down.
  34. 1 like
    The manual was written for Stonefly and Tangerine which are multi chine and Crawfish is obviously single chine. So yes, you are going need some bracing when you put in the gunwale stringer or it will probably break it. I don't remember if there there is a chine in the center or there are tow on either side of center? But you probably only need to brace the middle ones, that is where the force of the Gunwale will be inwards. The others the gunwales will be pulling outward. It won't hurt to brace others and if you see them flexing but I don't think I had to on Stonefly. Of course if doesn't hurt anything to brace them all either.
  35. 1 like
    I made my sprits according to an early spec sheet so they were too short for the updated sail plan I installed. I ended up splicing in extra length plus a few more inches. I haven't noticed a problem with the extra length and it is easy to cut it down. If I were using new sails I think I would try out the longer sprit and then trim it when you determine the exact length you want.
  36. 1 like
    If you adjust the frame notches for a snug fit I don't think it will be problem since you are using sassafras.
  37. 1 like
  38. 1 like
    Round or sharp edges in relation to performance is beyond my skill. I rounded pretty much all edges to facilitate the glassing. I was also told that paint doesn't work well on sharp edges. In my eyes a rounded edge looks better on a boat but these would be under water anyhow. To save at the gas pump make the boat as light as possible that does make a difference. Egbert
  39. 1 like
    Haha. Both! I have been hit so hard by life during this build. For me, though, the whole shebang is the hobby. The building time is as therapeutic to me as the drifting, erm sailing, time. I have missed every artificial deadline I've made already, so at this point I don't care. She looks nice, and I'll have a long while to enjoy her while I build the others. I hope.., Peace, Robert
  40. 1 like
    I hate to see this happen. The hull must have had water lying in it for a long time for the trunk side to rot like this. It makes me wonder if there is not more damage elsewhere. I am not a fan of Git Rot either. I would cut out the effected wood and splice in new wood. I do not think that the trunk needs to come out if what you show in the picture is all of the damage. If you are convinced that you cannot splice in new wood and the inside of the trunk is glassed, as recommended, you could scrape, grind out the bad wood and fill it back up with wood flour and cabosil thickened epoxy and glass over the outside and it would be more than strong enough. This would take a delicate hand with the grinder as you could grind through glass in a second. I would remove the centerboard and and put a backing piece inside the trunk and wedged tight against the side of the trunk that you are working on. Tape some plastic to the backer so that it cannot get glued in place if some epoxy happens to work it's way through the glass on the inside of the trunk. If you are careful enough to remove the damaged ply down to the glass, it will not be very stiff and may dish or get wavy. You might remove the rot in strips, say 3 wide and fill it in with thickened epoxy before removing the next three inch strip. I would remove all of the damage part on one side and just put in a new piece of 6mm ply. You can butt joint the ply as long as you cover the butt joint with glass tape. It is also important to remove all of the rotten wood and go well beyond where you think that the rot ends or it will continue to rot on the other side of your repair.
  41. 1 like
    Drill a piece of thick hardwood on the drill press nice and square and use it to keep your hand drill square.
  42. 1 like
    Don't that jist make a feller's mouth water We had a fabulous time at SAM!!
  43. 1 like
    I'm not sure what checking that "like" button does, but I was compelled to. As always Chick, awesome!
  44. 1 like
    FINALLY!!!!!!!!!!!!! Counter tops finished, messabout over, rain stopped, etc., etc. Time to get back to Mr. Motor Canoe. Well, no, that's not his real name. Maybe "Buzztail"? That's what some of us southern folks call a rattle snake. I dunno. What do y'all think's a good name for an outboard herp huntin machine? (For y'all that don't know, herp is short for herptile. That's reptiles and amphibians.) Turtles are reptiles. That's what we're going after. Turtles. Already got a boat named Turtler. Ok, so here's what's up today. Got the hull panel forward and aft pieces together the other day. Today I'll join the sides to the bottom just like most of the other B&B boats. I prefer doing each side separately. Yes, I know I can stack 'em Vern. I just like to do it this way. Do ya' mind? I'll flip them and glass tape the other side of the joint later today. Meanwhile, I gotta go and pick up my black walnut from my buddy at the saw mill. They'll become my inwales and outwales. Slotted just like Turtler's. Guess I'll have time to mow the lawn, too. Oh, joysville.... Those are the transom and temporary frames stacked behind the hull panels. My old drafting spline weights (ducks) have become part-holder-downers. I used to design my own boats, but Graham has spoiled all of that for me. His are so much better. (Non-payed actual customer endorsement.)
  45. 1 like
    A few more pictures
  46. 1 like
    Awesome! I think if you use propane tank, trailer hitch, old paint cans and an ammo box to weight hings down there might be a Jeff Foxworthy joke somewhere there! Looks a lot like what I do. Get yourself a cabinet scraper and learn how to sharpen it's edge. It makes cleaning up those joints really quick. Looking good!
  47. 1 like
    Nick Schade (Guillemot Kayaks) uses a plastic spoon for a filleting tool. I can't wait to try that.
  48. 1 like
    Check it out. Took the guess work out of it for me. http://www.ezacdc.com/
  49. 1 like
    What a shame, way too young.... He was a hard working fellow that was just coming into his own with his second life's dream, operating his own boat shop. We are surely going to miss him and his brand of passive"opinions" too. LOL My tagline says it all for sure. Thanks Jay for providing this thread.
  50. 1 like
    Any updates Bob? More pictures please. Sounds like a cool project. My S11 wears a strange looking Green and Brown tarp loose footed spritsail. I gave it a go for various reasons and it's been fun so far! I just bought a couple of real sailing blocks for it and doubled the cost of the entire rig - mast, sail, cordage included. Matt