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Showing most liked content since 11/15/2017 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    The boat is cut... and is nesting all right!
  2. 1 point
    Thought you may be interested in seeing Allecat (vs 3.0 with new mizzen) on a boys weekend in Moreton Bay Australia. Great weather, great sailing and good company. https://photos.app.goo.gl/78CcxBKOXJenZORj1
  3. 1 point
    Steve, here is the Nasa light I have on my boat. It only has 2 wires (reverses polarity to select anchor or nav) so the installation and deck plug is simple. Very economical on power consumption with a nice bright light. You can see the glow of the lights on deck! We have trailered the boat 4-5000 miles in 3 years, if that doesn’t break it, it is pretty robust. Jay
  4. 1 point
    The only requirements for an anchor light are that it be: 1. 360º white light 2. visible for 2 miles A lantern hung in the cockpit, from the boom or sprit qualifies. I find in most harbors that is better than mast head as it is easier to see when close. During my cruising days I used to keep a paraffin miner's lantern for use in the evenings in harbor when traffic was a concern. Anyway, my point is, that for those without the masthead anchor light, there are other options short of re-rigging a new light.
  5. 1 point
    The Tricolor LED light that Graham and Peter both have is this one... https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|65136|2312550|2312561&id=2113738 B&B sells them for an earth shattering $145.00! WAIT that can't be right. Oh yeah we aren't greedy! The unit seems very well made and all the wire terminals into the LEDs are completely potted in soft black silicone type epoxy and they look very impervious to water. The modification we did was basically to remove the bottom two "disk" puck things which are just hollow plastic and replace them with a custom made starboard mast cap that plugs into the top of the mast and has a shoulder for the tricolor to mount on. This both eliminated some material and lowered the unit a couple of inches (every inch counts). Maybe Graham will post some pictures of his. LED tricolors for all!
  6. 1 point
    I'm glad you noticed this. If I was doing that rebuild I'd have removed the garboard, likely skipped a plank and removed the next, helping retain as much shape as practical. Additionally, when there as bad as I think you have, I'll rip 1/4" (on that size boat) into 8" - 12" wide strips and use these diagonally over the existing planking, again to help hold the boat's shape and stabilize it. I'd also likely build interior frames to push up or pull down on certain areas that seem obviously out of whack. All of this done, before the ribs get removed and replaced. These would be done every other or every third one at a time, also to preserve the shape. The aft most ribs will be the toughest to bend, as that bilge turn on those old sea skiff hulls is tight. The last 1/4 of the hull don't be surprised to break 50% of them if you're not laminating. I've done a number of that style of hull and I usually do laminate, at least the last 1/4, where the turn is tight. Maybe every other one, to save some effort and goo. At midship it gets a lot easier to bend them in as solid stock.
  7. 1 point
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  9. 1 point
    Lookin' awesome Amos! I agree about the stuff that comes to you in the middle of the night. Sometimes that's when the best ideas come.
  10. 1 point
    Oh to be a tree and get sent to Amos' workshop.
  11. 1 point
    You do quality work Amos. The finished vessel will be very satisfying. I really like your cabinet work and choice of timbers.
  12. 1 point
    Hi, Amos. Good progress and beautiful work.
  13. 1 point
    I already have seen that... one of the reasons I decided to go for it.
  14. 1 point
    What a great way to install foam, PAR. I repaired powerboats for many years and also experienced how poured in, or shot in foam would rot floors and stringers, and hold water. Boston Whaler type boats can soak up so much water that they can't even get on plane anymore. They are almost impossible to repair because of the way they are built. On more "traditionally" built boats, my solution was to cut and shape new flotation from solid polyurethane blocks that I purchased from my supplier.
  15. 1 point
    That stuff is a single part polyurethane and not as durable as the 2 parts versions, though better than most single part paints.
  16. 1 point
    Yes, great weekend for sure. Weather was perfect and we came across about fifty, or more... Dugong out on the sand banks. Really amazing. Why did we add a mizzen, well basically I think the honest answer is in two parts. 1...I put the mainmast in the wrong spot I suspect. I think it should have been about 300mm further aft. This has corrected the very neutral helm, bordering on lee helm at times. and 2... Friends have a Bayraider 20 and I just loved the way they can drop the main, sail on jib and mizzen and put in water ballast and keep their hair on. So have put a pump in with some plumbing to fill the side storage tanks if needed (together or singly) and can take on 340 litres which makes a difference. The other third part to the answer is I am a bit of a tragic and love mucking around with it all. All good fun and if nobody sees the bills then it did not cost anything. Rob ps Drew, give us a hoy when you are up this way. Love to see the new improved version III.
  17. 1 point
    Belated! But if I never get her out of the basement I have a heck of a play house......
  18. 1 point
    As I watched my other half perform prostrate surgery, on an obese bird, with stale bread crumbs, I realized how thankful I truly was. It wasn't me cooking; have a good holiday folks . . .
  19. 1 point
    Happy Thanksgiving to all!
  20. 1 point
    Hope everyone has a Very Happy Thanksgiving and not to many splinters while working on these great boats!!!! Romans 8:1 Scott
  21. 1 point
    Those monster energy drinks make me crazy Yes lotus i have thought about some trim tabs even though it will be heavier than drawn. I am on the Tchoutacabouffa river in Biloxi MS and there can be a lot of floating debris at times so i have glassed the entire bottom inside and out to much more of an extent than the drawings show. That being said i agree with you that it might very well need some tabs. My wife is totally happy with the fact that the boat is nearly finished as she is under the impression that i can now finish our house . She does not understand that Allen has shipped and i have picked up a nice shiny new set of OC20-B Drawings. Lumber for the keel is already hear and will be machined up soon, plywood is on order and will land after Thanksgiving. Maybe i will tell her then I will try to post up some pics of the launch and such when it happens. I hope before Christmas. You all have a good one
  22. 1 point
    It is on the trailer and heading for the shop to get a motor hung in a few days Going with a 60 horse yamaha.
  23. 1 point
    Moving picture is almost always better...
  24. 1 point
    I bought my ethanol-free 93 octagon fuel from a Steil dealer whose customer base is mostly rural. Their tank is above ground and about 500 gallons in size. It turned out to be contaminated with water. That can happen if you happen to be getting your fuel load from near the bottom of the tank. Especially if the dealer has a fairly low sales volume of that gas. The tank can be half empty for multiple cycles of temperature & humidity variations -- causing condensation. And the tank was not under cover, which would exacerbate the temperature daily highs and lows. I got rid of all the e-free gas that I had.
  25. 1 point
    I'm fortunate to get non-ethanol gas at the yacht club, where we have it in the fuel pump specifically for the marine engines in use there. It does seem to make a difference. I know I'm tempting fate, but I put some stabilizer in last fall (both in the fuel tank and ran it through the engine when I ran the engine dry) and everything worked this spring. Fingers crossed.
  26. 1 point
    Chick, now that is funny......you will probably build another boat before I finish!
  27. 1 point
    Inspired by a piece of plywood I saw in the B & B shop nicely kerfed and curved, I went back home with a vague plan. I love the Mark 3 boats, but the opening to the "Oar storage" looks a bit unfinished for my taste. I decided that I'd give up the oar storage (more on that in the near future) and add a bit of decorative touch. Here is what I came up with. I wasted a whole Saturday fooling around and changed my mind numerous times, and the port one fits slightly better than the starboard, but my son Andrew and I had a lot of fun. We fooled around with a bunch of templates on the stern openings and ultimately decided on round. Simple. I wound up using the okume I had cut out from the windows for stock on everything including the doubling (gives a thicker appearance to match forward) I glued in the Riv-nuts for the portslights. Tonight I'll glue on the trim rings. I wanted to get this done before working on the cabin top as I could reach everything easy now.
  28. 1 point
    I got busted using the wife's dyson to dust the hull Pic is blurry but still busted
  29. 1 point
    If I could sand my boat all over again, I would've taken Dave's suggestion. I also like the 3M scotch-brite scrub pads of various grits. I found the very-fine pad to be great between finish coats. For the RO sander, I just use 8-hole 80-grit discs from Home Depot and replace them often. I'm coming to hate production sandpaper.
  30. 1 point
    I think the mkIII boats look fantastic. Aesthetics are very personal, and my view is skewed since I'm an engineer so I'm not really able to separate form from function. The efficiency of the use of space here is combined with graceful lines, and I find the combination to be very elegant. The paint schemes most builders are coming up with, like Chessie, really make the lines pop. I almost regret painting my Spindrift to look like a goose!
  31. 1 point
    Yeah, the nutritional value of those old those old cassettes are getting pretty low. Your boat is looking so good, Graham!
  32. 1 point
    alexscott-- If you thought his fuel consumption was large with the 'zuki, think about how much it would have been with the 6. I was out in my boat today. It was a lovely day, with temps above 70. A johnboat was headed to the dock. I could hear the one fisherman talking (shouting) to the other way across the lake. I just lay in the bottom of my boat, water gurgling along the sides, grinning. Yeah, motors are a necessary evil.
  33. 1 point
    Man. I like the way your mind works, Graham. I wish you all the joy you can wring from such a trip. Peace, Robert P.S. Yes, I really am going to get going on #55 this spring. I really would like to drag her out there and sail around with you. That's my CoreSound dream...
  34. 1 point
    Graham Thanks for the tip about sitting down on the centerboard. I have felt uncomfortable walking out on the board in real conditions because of the buffeting of the wind and the motion of the boat. Somehow it never occurred to me to just sit down. DUH! I imagine you may have to be more careful of staying clear of the hull as it slams down. I will try sitting next time the opportunity presents itself. Ken I had forgotten that you have recovered from a 180. Did you give the details in an earlier post? Alex Why do you want someone to post a video of a CS capsize and recovery in 20-30 knot wind? There is a significant amount of anecdotal evidence that recovery in those conditions is possible and the technique is similar to what is documented for flat water condition. Is there something you hope to learn from the more realistic video or just the certainty that seeing is believing. I would document a recovery in more realistic conditions but the logistics and risks involved are not insignificant. The purpose of posting the videos such as they are is to encourage fellow boaters to explore the limits of their boats and themselves in controlled conditions. I think it is prudent to discover where those limits are before venturing into open water. I am a little envious of the young sailors I see that have grown up sailing at a high level and can crash and recover in strong conditions without thinking much of it. Many years ago when I was learning to roll my kayak I watched videos of rolls in big whitewater and staged rolls in swimming pools. I learned absolutely nothing from watching experts roll in class V rapids except people can do some crazy stuff. I learned quite a bit watching the swimming pool rolls, but 99% of the learning occurred upside down in my boat, at first in a swimming pool and then step by step in more and more difficult conditions.
  35. 1 point
    I have only sailed the original, I haven't sailed the Mark III (so please disregard everything I'm about to say ). I had a lot of fun with the original design - I usually day sailed and I occasionally took overnight trips as long as 6 days when I camped on the beach. I only slept on the boat a time or two. I thought the boat was pretty much perfect for my purposes. If I wanted to sleep on the boat more often than that I would go for a Mark III.
  36. 1 point
    Andrew is building a Bermudan sloop and Ken is building the Bermudian ketch. These are the rig choices currently available. Oyster, the cabin is all V berth, with a center notch of course. The berth is 6' 9" long, so plenty of room. Also the centerboard case is offset to port (about 8"), so the interior is free from case obstructions, as it hides under the V berth. This is the V berth top and the long rectangle (darker gray), is the centerboard case access panel.
  37. 1 point
    A simple transmission is fairly easy, just being a few pulleys, an idler wheel or two, V belts and a lever to engage the engine. Of course you'll also need a stuffing box, rudder and steering gear as well. One of the biggest hurtles to over come are the limitations of the lawn mower engine. Most small engines of this type are L head designs with suction carbs and oil slinger lubrication. This means it really can't live on much of an angle before it dies a smoky, oil starved death. The angle is necessary for the shaft to stick out he bottom of the boat. Other issues are: the engine RPM will be quite low for the props typically used, the carb will have a tendency to flood in choppy conditions, at 6 HP you don't have much more then a trolling motor for power on a 14' wooden boat, venting the heat and providing enough cool air for it to suck on. You could attempt to hijack a transmission out of a garden tractor. Small garden tractor typically use belt driven "gears" and a lever. You might want to "upgrade" that engine to it's biggest capacity. Most engines are made from a base casting. An example is a set of outboards I want. I'd like to have two electric start 15 HP outboards on this small boat of mine. The 15 HP versions cost almost 3 grand each. I just happen to know the same brand's 8 HP engine is the same engine and costs $1,700 each. I'll change the jets, adjust the timing and install different venturies, plus a few hot rod tricks. They'll produce over 15 HP each for considerably less then the cost of a new 15 HP. Lawn mower engines are the same deal. You might be able to get 10 HP from your 6. Then again it may already be the biggest end of the model line, with sister engines of 2, 3 and 5 HP available. As far as specifics, I'd need to know what you have and what you wan to do. My first thoughts are the engine is very small for the boat you have. My next thought is a used outboard isn't very costly, especially after you consider how much a stuffing box, steering and rudder setup and a home made transmission will eat out of your wallet, when everything is said and done. If you're a reasonably handy "fabricator" then you can slap together this home made drive. If on the other hand, the whole idea of making a set of pulleys spin backwards from the engine rotation is past you, then you'll need some help and would probably be best advised to find an outboard.