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  1. 3 likes
    Here's a closeup of the final surface. This is with one coat of undiluted Totalboat primer and one coat of thinned Brightside topcoat. I'll stop applying finish at this point. If I were doing it over again, I'd thin the primer a little. There were little pinholes in the valleys of the weave, which is one reason I thinned the topcoat more than usual. This method did take a lot of epoxy to wet out the Dynel. I ended up squeegeeing out about a pint of goo, before allowing it to cure. And I did take some sandpaper to the cured epoxy, to knock off some high, sharp points of fabric. But I'm happy with the job. We'll see if my mate's bottom agrees.
  2. 3 likes
    If you want a cheap and mindless guide coat for sanding and boarding your surface, just get you some food coloring and put it in denatured alcohol and apply it with a rag onto your kilz primed surface. Yep, been priming with that stuff and binzeed equivalent since the mid 80s. or so. I apply it right over fiberglass for building up and filling finish cloth weave in particular. And yes you can use after sanding under two part parts after allowing it to cure for a couple of weeks. That's the oil base INTERIOR stuff that costs 15 bucks a gallon versus several hundred bucks for a two part gallon kit. I also use microlight fairing compound over the kilz primer. Then recoat with primer one coat and paint.
  3. 2 likes
    Oh, man, Chick. You are just my type of guy. This is funny.:) I just CANNOT wait to meet youse guys in person. Stupid enormously wide country. I wish we lived in a long skinny one, sometimes. Of course, my luck is I'd live South and y'all would live North. One day, we'll get the campfire on, and let the bad jokes fly! Me and Don will accompany on uke and banjo. Peace, Robert
  4. 2 likes
    I recommend 6061 for above the LWL applications, which typically are in the rig or fittings. 6061 is commonly available as is 5052, which is better for immersed exposure. I agree most home builders would be best advised to have a local welder/fabricator cut, drill and countersink anything but very thin stainless. This is one reason I recommend aluminum bar stock for these sort of things, as wood tools can be used and it's fairly easy to work, bend, drill, etc. An example of this type of work is attached. This rudderhead has a lot of shape and more flat bar stock bent around. There's some slight compound curves involved, which were pounded into it with a leather hammer. It's a precise fit, bedded in 3M-101 and again screwed down with #8 stainless oval heads. Also attached is more of the same flat bar stock, this time bent to serve as a below deck, halyard sheave bracket. Simply bent in a vice, over a small pipe to get a good radius. Working custom pieces of hardware like this is easy in aluminum and once polished up, makes you look like a pro. The polishing process is a bit tedious, but not hard and you likely have the tools to do it already. Compared to bending and machining stainless, no contest.
  5. 2 likes
    The texture was done in the goo, with a roller just before it "gelled" up. Three coats of neat epoxy that was left to dry, then taped off for the waterways and a slightly thickened application of goo rolled on. When this was near the gel stage, I ran a roller through it to get a consistent textured pattern (you can see a few roller lap marks on the starboard side of the bow). Because the goo was very near becoming a non-liquid, it couldn't lay back down and self level, leaving the epoxy coating textured. This was lightly kissed with a DA, to knock off high spots and semi level the texture (dull it a bit), then prepped for paint. Corrosion can be a concern though with most trailer boats, if you keep it clean and dry, not really much of a concern for the first decade of ownership. Grab a small length of the stainless you'd like to use and drill/countersink several holes in it, before you make this decision. Aluminum can be shaped with many woodworking tools, not so with stainless.
  6. 2 likes
    A little while ago, Hirilonde posted the following in a reply on enquiries about a Builders database: “A forum isn't an encyclopedia, it is in the present. Just ask questions. Yes, we do get some of them over and again, but so what? I have been here 10 years and I don't find any sincere question asked by someone trying to build their own boat a nuisance, even if a frequent repeat.” Not a whole lot was said about it, but as newcomer it stuck in my mind. We newbies have many questions and while we do try to search first to avoid troubling people unduly, it’s nice to hear such a welcoming response. The internet can be a pretty ugly place. Forums such as this, where questions are asked, answers are given and discussions are had in a civil manner tend to be the exception and not the rule. I may not say much, (hence my user name), but I visit regularly and that is one of the reasons why. Therefore I thought it was time to say thanks Jeff, and indeed everyone, for making this site the way it is. A very special place.
  7. 2 likes
  8. 2 likes
    Alright Chick, because of your impatience I will give you the report in two installments. Here is part one. Ocracoke cruise part 1.pdf
  9. 2 likes
    I am done with my part except for the notch for the outboard which will be modified when an outboard is chosen
  10. 2 likes
    I built my CS 17 'Lively' in 2007 and have sailed her solo most of the time. I do beach camping for a few days at a time. I had a canvas cabin made for her and it works very well with almost too much headroom. I made a conscious decision to go for a lot of headroom which I have since regretted because I cannot sail with the cabin up. So I would recommend the CS 17 III or a CS 17 with a canvas cabin that is low enough to sail with it up. I love my CS 17 and have sailed her solo in winds from 0 to 25 knots and felt confident at all speeds. I have double reefs set up on the sails. If money is a concern, the 17 with canvas cabin would definitely be less expensive. Someone mentioned it but I want to emphasize that trailer launching and retrieval should definitely be a consideration. I don't like to think about it much but your physical condition and not your age should be considered also. I am 75 but am in good physical condition so far. I am not sure I would want to deal with the larger boats. Graham knows how to design a boat. Any of his boats would satisfy your needs. See the photos with my cabin.
  11. 1 like
    Remember the longer bag goes in the back. It looks backwards but you need foot room.
  12. 1 like
    Mine came from growing up in St. Pete., Fla. As kids, we'd head off to the beach on the first warm spring day and get a good sunburn, then hide at home 'til it peeled. Then we'd do it all over again. By now, we had enough tan to last through summer. Every summer day in a boat or at the beach. No Sun tan lotion. Sunlight is healthy. Tan looks good. No time to smear messy goo on. Then, 40 years later, a soccer ball size melanoma tumor! Major surgery, but God encapsulated the tumor so it didn't spread. Docs said "a miracle". Wanted me to go to Duke University to find out why I'm still alive. God had things left for me to do for Him.
  13. 1 like
    Robert, I couldn't wait to retire and have time to work on and use my boats. DON"T DO IT! I have less time than ever now! I don't know the physics of the matter, but somehow, the other stuff we do expands to fill the time we thought we were gonna have. To over flowing.
  14. 1 like
    Just got back from winter storage! I hope the next photos will be trial rigging, or something else that actually looks like sailing. It won't be long now. Unless there's a hailstorm in a gale with lightning coming out of funnel clouds, formal christening is May 20.
  15. 1 like
    An easy way is to use fly screen wire. Just cut it out into whatever shape you want, then place where you want grip, then paint all over the screen and then remove. You are left with good grip that is as easy to sand as paint and you don't have to go looking for any special products.
  16. 1 like
    Not much to report. Between getting ready for our messabout and other stuff, all I've accomplished is finishing the building cradle. Well, actually, i also had a mess of garage clean-up/move around to get to my plywood stock. Now I'll begin cutting the actual canoe parts. Hang with me, we'll get together again in a few days. Probably after our messabout this weekend.
  17. 1 like
    In case you all thought I had given up on "UnNamed", you would be wrong. I've been very busy with life, but not so busy I couldn't chip away at stuff. Her is a picture of my seat hatch frame as proof. It's been good therapy. I think I'm going to concentrate on he cockpit for a bit before I move to the cabin top.
  18. 1 like
    One of the questions that seems to come up a lot is, how does the boat sail? The boat is comfortable and secure in relatively heavy wind. Please see the attached photo. We sailed yesterday from 10 to 4.( RH side of charte.. 10 to 4) These are wind measurements taken in Oriental. We were out in the Neuse. As you can see there were some puffs and the wind was pretty consistent in the high teens. In my dinghy this would have been very nervous sailing and in fact we probably would not have chosen to gone out alone. Conditions were predicted to be 10 to 20, so we put a reef in the main from the start. We had two people onboard and water ballast in. It was never worrisome or uncomfortable. I have a good video but it is too big. 24mb versus the allowable 16mb. If you want I will send via email. Please excuse dumb hat in video. All in all the boat allows us to sail when we otherwise would not.
  19. 1 like
    Awlgrip sells straight granulated texture, designed to be mixed or sprinkled in or over paint. It's ground up polyurethane pellets and about as soft a particulate you'll find. I've been using it exclusively on retro fits, where I can't use the roller through epoxy trick. Easy to sand or remove, inert and available in light medium or coarse grits. It's white too, though and through. I think this is the image Dave referenced . . .
  20. 1 like
    @ Walt S. -- it's nice and rough! (But not overly so.) The key is to only put on one coat of epoxy, and squeegee off most of it. Then, one coat of primer and one (or two at most) coats of paint. If you gob it up with those things, you lose your texture. But right now it's lovely. @Chick Ludwig -- it's what I call a "lounging panel" for my first mate. Once we get under way, Terri loves to take a nap. This will pay homage to those wishes. I will also use it for camp cruising, if I do that. It'd make a neat platform for sleeping. It occupies the area forward of the mizzen, going all the way up the the forward bulkhead. My "boom tent" will cover just this area. I plan to make an awning for the area aft of the mizzen, too. Right now, though, I'm prepping all my toys for our messabout next weekend. No tent or awning work will be done until after that event.
  21. 1 like
    It's a tough life, but some body has to do it.
  22. 1 like
    Note that Graham uses thickened epoxy for gluing his plastic beckson type screw ports onto his boats in addition to using it to install anderson bailers. I didn't like the idea when I first heard him say he just glues them in but the more I think about it, the easier it is. How many times have I ever had to remove one? maybe once. And if you're removing it, it's likely damaged and can be cut and taken out as a "split ring".
  23. 1 like
    Absolutely. If you bed hardware first you get a mechanical seem where the paint meets the bedding. The overlap of painting/varnishing first and bedding over it is very important for all hardware.
  24. 1 like
    Thanks PAR. The better half would have had me done with this already. Onward and upward...
  25. 1 like
    Wow, that's a lot of epoxy! I'm only giving the Dynel one coat before primer and paint. After all, I'm looking for a textured surface when I'm done. The good news is that if it doesn't work out, I can throw it away-- it's a removable panel. But I'll file your experience away in my memory banks, for that Mackenzie River drift boat I'm never going to build.
  26. 1 like
    I'm making a "lounging panel" for the area forward of my mizzen. This will allow my first mate to take up her favorite sailing position (horizontal), once we're under way. I plan to cover it with Dynel, to give me a nice non-skid pattern. It should be friendlier on her backside than crushed walnut shells! I'll post a photo when done. (In a week or so, I hope.) Off-center Harbor ( has a great video on laminating materials to wood with epoxy resin, including Dynel. I learned a lot from it, and am anxious to see how it comes out.
  27. 1 like
    Many thanks to everyone.. This is kind of an omnibus response... Wile E... I like the motor. It is light, easier to use than a gasoline outboard, fits in the seat compartment for storage. I am concerned about battery life. As long as you are content to move at 2 to 2.5 knots there is plenty battery life. If you need the motor for an emergency run, then perhaps better to stay put. I think of it as being a replacement for rowing. My primary use will be to get down a creek to the wind then back. I will plan on sailing out of any other predicaments. Chick, I unfortunately will not make the Appalachian mess about. My trailer although perfect the boat, is used and has rust in all the wrong places and I have yet to figure out how to move boat without damaging it on a long trip. Also I need to stick close to home for a while to build up some political capital. I am gone most weeks and home only on weekends. I will be at the fall messabout. My apologies. Thank you for the kind words on the boat. Drew... It was a mistake but our boat shares its colors with IKEA stores. I originally wanted to make the boat a cream yellow but we had so much leftover blue paint from a prior project that it seemed wasteful not to use it. A friend made a comment that the sheer strake(?) was overly wide and large, so we painted it bright yellow just to be sure no one would miss it. The deck is a white blue.... looks very white to me but it is supposed to be easier on the eye in bright sunlight. I think blue with a varnished shear would be a better combination . Our boat when seen up close is workman like quality... not furniture quality... but it works very well. We are very pleased. However I am open to offers from IKEA for a sponsorship. I would gladly promote disassembled furniture and meatballs all over the sounds of North Carolina. Steve JW & Steve W Thank you. I appreciate the comments. I am fortunate to have a wife who likes this sort of thing. We work well together and when we don't there is cold beer. The hard part for me was allowing her to take over a part of the project and then letting her do her part without me constantly interjecting. She did her parts well. And unlike me, she did not have any redo's Pete... It was nice to motor about. I wanted to see if there were any leaks without being in the middle of the river and then having real problems. Fortunately no leaks. I would recommend a quick splash n dash once you get to that point. It was a great motivator and relief without having all the line tangling around your ankles. Best Regards. AmosSwogger... We do understand about motivation and the constant effort. It seemed like for a while we would work our day jobs 8 to 10 hours then 3 to 4 more each night on the boat then 16 or so more on the boat over the weekend. I think we did that for the first year then did nothing just about for the second. We had some moves etc and I am sure what I just said is an exaggeration. I am gone a lot and am generally prone to complaining. We are slow workers and we would spend as much time talking about what and how to do the next part as actually doing it. It can be a struggle. Toward the end we adopted a just get it done attitude. It has been worth it. The boat was amazing on the first sail. Focus just on the next task..not the big picture. That seemed to work best. Craig and Paul... last but not least... Thank you for posts. It is nice to get it done even better to have folks cheer you on. I appreciate it. Best Regards
  28. 1 like
    Just a reminder y'all. IT'S ALMOST TIME!!! April 21-23. Saddler's Creek, Lake Hartwell. Summer Breeze and I can't wait to see you all. Don either.
  29. 1 like
    Hi lenm, walkway is 12.5 inches wide AT THAT LEVEL and that level is about 20" higher than the original sole (floor)
  30. 1 like
    Hi Walt. I could hardly find the cloth. Defender was the only place that had it in stock. Not sure if they had tape.
  31. 1 like
    Thought I would post some pictures of Randy and Bobbie's Spindrift (Sorry it is a bit covered in pollen at the moment) we have access to here at the shop. They help answer some questions that Walt was asking me about today. I added the pictures to the Spindrift album. Link here. You'll notice some deails on the traveler line across the transom on which the lower sheet block attaches in the middle. The line is knotted under the quarter knees for a simple attachment method. Cleats on the thwart are for the halyard (with anti-re-cleat cover) and the others are for the vang and reefing line. I also took some pictures of an experimental gooseneck attachment to an aluminum boom that we wanted to test out. It worked fine but we had to fabricate a tapered boom plug to bolt the gooseneck straps to. We may one day switch to the hole and pin method such as is used on the laser but for now we like the racelite goosenecks in conjunction with the fixed non-rotating mast. Below is a screenshot (squashed in length to 25%) of our CNC keel that comes with the S12 kit. Walt, I may have confused you on the phone (sorry) you should have the one shown at the top. It's a two piece keel strip with a scarf and has the taller "skeg" part already built into it. We cut these on the cnc machine. Simply scarf it together and then glue down as I described. I like to drill a pilot hole in the bow and stern of the keel and then use drywall screws to dry fit it to the boat. It only takes a couple careful turns of the screw with a MANUAL screw driver to get a thread or two into the bottom of the boat to hold the keel in place. No need to screw it on or to drill through the bottom of the boat. Once the bow and stern are set you can get it dead straight by eye and add about 3 more screws to fix it's position. Then remove it and butter it up and then replace the scews back in the small holes again with just a couple turns of the screw to hold it down to the bottom. Then of course the screws are removed after the epoxy is cured and the pilot holes can be poured with epoxy. We typically put a "finger" fillet on the keel-bottom joint. We do not recommend glassing "up" the keel to the bottom because it will eventually get scratched up and then the glass will work it's way off the keel strip and it just makes for a bigger repair job than it needed to be. I a currently dealing with this issue on our CS-20 as I redo her bottom from a time when I had not the experience I have now. The lower keel is another way of creating the "skeg" effect using a long tapered (3/4" to zero over ~48") piece underneath a 3/4" square piece. This is what I was describing but again, Walt should have the CNC version. Walt is doing an excellent job on his boat and we love seeing these boats go together by people who take a leap of faith in and choose our kits over the many other options there are out there these days.
  32. 1 like
    Raised and/or broken sheer boats can have an awkward look to them, but there are ways to mitigate this and one, which is done in this case is a dark, contrasting color in the raised portion. It helps to bracket this color with lighter colors that are still darker than the hull color and varnished wood is a common method. It also helps to make the deck line rub a bit "heavier" visually, which typically means it's taller than the lower rub, commonly by about 10%. You have to be careful with this as adding visual weight to the top, makes things worse, so an "architectural detail" trick is to mold the lower edge of the upper rub. A healthy bead, cove or roman ogee are often seen. These create shadow lines, which fool the eye. The reverse can also be done on the upper portion of the lower rub, again with some sort of edge detail creating shadows and "softening" the visual transition between the two areas. I personally like to treat the lower rub with a taller profile and the edge treatment, thinking it helps visually pull the broken sheer down a bit. These types of details separate the really good looking boats from the average ones. Shown above are some pretty fancy rails and typical of Herreshoff's work. Though not a broken or raised sheer, the visual effect of the upper strake is lowered by making the upper rub taller. Another trick is to bring the deck or cabin color around, over the edge of the topsides, so this color is visible above the upper rub.
  33. 1 like
    Coatings, be it paint, or a resin like epoxy bond to things one of two ways. Mechanical, where they grip an already solid surface physically. This works best when given some tooth as in the scratched surface Paul mentions. Chemical, where the previous coat on the surface has not yet cured and the new coat can still bond chemically to it. Chemical is best, but if well scratched and cleaned a good physical bond can be obtained. This is why I like to try to get as many chemical bonds as my schedule allows. It saves on sanding and other prep work.
  34. 1 like
    Here are a few pictures from the Florida trip. Hontoon State Park Boater Homing Underway
  35. 1 like
    If you tear up a good portion of the seam fabric, you shouldn't use Xynole to "tape" it up again. This stuff has no structural value, it just improves abrasion resistance. Replace the ground through tape with more cloth, fair the area, then apply the Xynole if you want the extra abrasion resistance.
  36. 1 like
    Robert, you've just described a trick, that is well known in the auto body industry and by those that have done a lot of fairing. There's such a thing as too much light. More specifically, light from the wrong direction/angle, too diffused or of incorrect intensity. It the light is directly over the work, particularly if it's too bright, it'll wash out the low and high spots. You just can't see them, some so small and subtle, they're hard to see anyway. I prefer light to be very obtuse and usually over my shoulder off to one side, so I can move in and out of the light path, to change the amount of light I'm getting. Because the light is coming in at a very low angle, the highs create a shadow in the low areas, which can be seen. Moving the light can help a lot too, where you'll find spots you didn't previously see, because the shadows moved. One of these days, I intentionally paint black over white on an intentionally unfair surface and do a cross hatch pattern on it with a long board, just to take pictures for folks to see. Once you learn the techniques, fairing isn't as problemsome as it often is for the novice.
  37. 1 like
    It has taken a long time but the hull(#6) and spars are complete. We took the boat for a test motor this last weekend, filled the water ballast and emptied it. Only a small drip from bottom gudgeon which was an easy fix. If all goes well, we will sail this weekend. It has been two years, three houses, two job changes, three sanders, acres of sand paper, and cases of rubber gloves. ( and we need more rubber gloves now) Most important, without my wife's hard work, patience, opinions, and sound advice, this boat would not be complete. She has been a willing co-conspirator. Richard Johnson
  38. 1 like
    Sweet God, if I had to count all the kitchen appliances I've had to buy for her, just because I used them in the shop. She has a new stove, because I got caught drying some oak in it. A blender, because I was caught grinding up some polyurethane pellets, which in spite of my insistence was completely inert and it could be eaten, still required a new one, the cooking flour sieve, for straining silica, several disposable Tupperware bowls, a couple of HDPE cutting boards, one she didn't like any more because it was scared up with knife strokes, a microwave, because I was warming some epoxy on a cold day, etc., etc., etc. She's lucky I like her . . . then again, it is a kitchen I built to her specifications, which was an obvious screw up on my part. Look guys, never do a good job on your boat, particularly the bright work. Always show the fingerprints and brush strokes in the finishes to the other half, or they'll expect the same level of expertise when you're banging through the honey-do list.
  39. 1 like
    I too use cardboard for template making and have a big box source for it that's cheap and the right type of cardboard. This stuff is available at Lowe's/Depot, though I can get it through the ULine catalog. It's cheap and easy to cut. This is "chipboard" and the material you'd find as a reinforcement on a on the back of a notepad. Because it's "sheet goods" it acts just like plywood if bent around molds and/or over stringers.
  40. 1 like
    Pouncing is a process that auto body guys use, that I've blatantly stolen from for boat work. It's a"guide coat" application and available in powder or rattle can. It's just a high build primer and a light coating of a contrasting color is all you need. Once this is dry, you long board at the same angle, say 45 degrees, across the full panel you're trying to flatten. Once this is done, go back on the reciprocal angle, with the idea of just scratching the surface lightly enough to create a cross hatch in the just applied guide coat. A quick cleaning of dust and inspection will show a uniform cross hatch pattern if the panel is fair. If not, areas of the cross hatch pattern will be missing (low spots) or well smeared (high spots). In places like a tape seam, you'll have the area just before the seam missing the cross hatch (because the long board bridged the proud standing tape) and area that are well "cooked" (because the tape was proud and getting knocked down). I like the dry guide coat stuff (which is pounced onto the surface), but lots of folks use the aerosols which dry in a few minutes.
  41. 1 like
    Jeff, Please don't mistake my post for criticism of you or your videos. They are making my build effort much easier! I have gone back and watched some of them more than once. My point was to challenge the community to show us their kayaking experiences. I agree with Dave about it being difficult, but hey, if people put action cameras on surfboards, motorcycles and dogs, why not kayaks? I know long kayak trips could be monotonous to watch, but seeing the highlights would be very cool. In my opinion. More snow in the forecast here on Friday! Yay! Not! I'm hoping to post a FROG soon. Ben
  42. 1 like
    I did as Don did and plowed out a shallow rectangle for the bailer to live in, on the inside of the planking. Seemed the less draggy way to do it.
  43. 1 like
    ...besides, ya gotta feed that "engineer within".
  44. 1 like
    Oh, Don, can TASTE it! So close, yet so far away. Hehe. I was all set to glass my foils yesterday and it started raining. Maybe today. Maybe tomorrow. I will begin painting the hull this week. I really am excited! Peace, Robert
  45. 1 like
    I've had 2 seagulls- the really simple ones with no clutch or recoil starters. They were dependable and hell for stout but crude. I had one on a 16' ply Great Pelican, and it seemed to go as fast towing a 20' inboard/outboard as lone boat! The thing that wouldn't work today is the starting procedure. The instructions said to press the brass button on top of the 'carb' until you see a sheen on the water. I say 'carb' because I was told by someone who knows that it isn't really a carburetor but a mixing valve, sort of like a model airplane motor. The 'shear pin' was a spring of about 3/16 wire that wound 3 or 4 turns around the prop shaft and had the ends turned out to engage the prop & shaft. If you get one be REAL careful not to hit anything- Heaven only knows where you could find another. If memory serves, the mix was 10 to 1. Especially since they are out of production, I don't think I would buy another. Best regards Alex
  46. 1 like
    NO-NO-NO Tiger. that ain't a keel. That's an optional safety rail to grab on to if ya turn the durn canoe over with that big 150 hp Merc that's some red neck bass fisher guy is gonna hang on the back. I bet that same guy is gonna want the thing in poly flake. Anyway, it's an option that my boat won't have , cause I'm only gonna use my li'l 2.5 Zuki on it. (Ok, just in case some of y'all take this seriously, that's a kinda building jig to hold the bottom shape until the seems are poxied and taped.)
  47. 1 like
    Agreed, Chick. The annual permit for Lake Bowen is $400 (for out-of-state residents) to launch a powered boat at my preferred lake. That includes an electric trolling motor! The permit is only good for two lakes in the area. Needless to say, I don't buy one. They will only ever see my sails and oars.
  48. 1 like
    Regardless of money I know of no foldable boat that I would call expedition. I watched a German foldable kayak be assembled for a day trip and then packed up again . They spent over an hour total and still were going to have to unpack it, dry it out and repack it when they got home. It weighted 80# and stored in 3 bags. I would rather hang a SOF from the ceiling of my living room for storage than deal with a folding boat. Everything in boat design is a compromise and I see no good one for folding, light weight and seaworthy. The small sails used on kayaks are fine for down wind and to a degree off the wind. I can't imagine any rig that would work to weather without lee boards and/or amas and now you have to question whether you have a kayak any more. I remember there were motorcycles billed as both on and off road. I found they were equally bad at both. Figuring out what one really wants can be harder than building it some times. You can't have it all.
  49. 1 like
    There's two basic ways of protecting these types of things, a fixed solution, typically bonded in place or a sacrificial solution, which is bedded and lightly fastened. The sacrificial strips can be one of several things. 3/4" (19 mm) by 1/8" (3 mm) aluminum strips, are commonly available at hardware stores, usually in 48" lengths, though big box stores will often have them in 8' lengths. The aluminum used, isn't especially tough and doesn't like salt water much, but they're relatively cheap, easy to machine and bend. Half ovals in brass, bronze and stainless cost a lot more. HDPE is even more costly, unless you can find a source for longer lengths. I like the idea of being easily able to remove a dicked up piece and replace it when necessary. If you have a local welding shop, order some 6061 strips from them. They can get you a piece that will run full length and the T-6 stock, will hold up very well in saltwater. The fixed protection can run the gamut of options: embedded rope, pipe, Kevlar tape, etc. What I like most is a stone mixture set in a shallow groove. It's done just like the rope leading edge on a centerboard, except the groove is shallower and you don't have to be precise about it. Mix sand, quartz, pulverized limestone, etc. with the epoxy and pile it up on the leading edge or keel. The shallow groove just keeps it centered on the whatever you're applying it. You'd be best advised to shape as best as you can while this stuff is wet or in the green stage as sanding it really sucks when cured. Stone will dramatically increase the bulk of the epoxy you mix and the cured result is well, like stone. A stone mixture can take huge compression and impact loads and it's part of the structure, becoming the whole leading edge of a board or the whole bottom edge of a keel. It isn't easy to replace, but if you bash into something hard enough to screw up this stone edge, you'll have bigger troubles then a keel guard to fix.
  50. 1 like
    Here is the interior. I took the overall layout from Scott's since his looked superb. The square plug to the left of the sink comes out and has a single burner stove attatched to the bottom, so when reversed, it slots back in for cooking, or could be removed and brought outside the boat for beach cooking.