ecgossett

I used the recommended lead in the plans on my core sound 17, it wasn't enough, so I needed a downhaul. Later I added onto the bottom and lenghened by 1". I used lead shot for that with thickened epoxy, premolded, bolted on, and used 3" tape to fair. 1) Carefully used a hand plane on the wood part where 1.5" of glass tape would go, and cut an a layer off to make fairing easier. 2) When casting added chopped Kevlar cloth for strength, and used Kevlar 3" tape in mold like a liner. 3) made sure to glass over kelvar when attaching mold to bottom of board, as kevlar frizzes when you sand it. 4) per the plans i actually had the extra room in the centerboard trunk for an extra inch. Just make sure if you weight your board, to add a bunkboard on your trailer, keeping a weighted board up adds stress on a lot of stuff.

Did I misunderstand a video/picture or did a core sound have a hull extension off the stern? also known as a stern flap.

Would love to see more peddle drive designs on the Core sounds instead of rowing.

What materials does a sea-clipper take to build? Type of wood for stringers? I'm having a fun time sourcing wood in eastern wa, unless I drive to Edensaw by Port Townsend and pay thru the nose.. How are you scarfing your plywood?

I hated having to repair the skeg area, twice in my ownership. Once from a towtruck dragging it up after getting hit by drunk lady prior to 2012 everglades challenge. That Kevlar reinforced carbon fiber cover repair, only lasted 2 years, and the actual solution involved grafting in new wood, and installing a SS rub piece. Alan's solution might be the way to go, I like going fast. Moving the centerboard forward is an interesting idea. I'm going to ask Alan, about installing a second one, with rubber or something on the hull covering it to help with water flow, I would love a goal zero, combined with a staysail. Light air stay-sail is the best thing I ever used, in heavy coastal current off of Victoria BC, we where making .5-1kt headway with a nice rooster trail behind us. Saved us from spending the night off the San Juan Islands. Just want an option for a little extra power. So last question, bunks?? How much room in the 20 MK3 cabin is there for bunk-boards, so on cold NW nights, I can cuddle with my wife? How far under the seats do your feet go?

It's been 13 years since I completed my CS17 and 5 years since I sold it. I'm now newly married, living in a new house by the Columbia River in Bridgeport, Washington. Our property includes a two-story, six-car garage/shop. My new wife is passionate about boat building and sailing, and I'm eager to embark on a new project and pull the trigger. I've had discussions with Alan once and a few other boat designers in this area about potential boat projects. Recently, I finished building a Storer Electric Canoe for river fun, although it doesn't sail yet. I'm particularly drawn to designs like the ECO 55 due to their efficiency in incorporating an electric engine on a multihull. Based on my experience, electric outboards are less efficient, and a 2:1 direct shaft drive is more effective. I also have a great appreciation for Core Sound boats and their ability to handle 50-knot winds and 12-foot waves. The biggest pro for me of multi-hulls is their ability to traverse local long lakes and reservoirs at higher speeds. I have a few remaining questions about the Core Sound 20 MK3 because the website lacks information on newer upgrades and options: Keel: In Alan's build video, he removed the wooden keel. My only positive experience with it was on the east coast, where it helped with beach sail offs. However, I also had to replace it due to damage from trailer rollers. Ice Box Under Seat: Does it obstruct someone sleeping? How is it drained? Masts: Has anyone added a VHF antenna to the mast for emergency use with a portable radio? Pre-shaped C&C Rudder/Centerboard: Is it worth it? I noticed some posts about adding lead; is this specific to the C&C cut ones? I modified my centerboard by adding 1.5" of lead shot on the bottom, mixed with thickened epoxy, and attached it with glass and lag screws because the weight called for in the plans wasn't sufficient to lower my centerboard completely. Cabin Bunk-board: Is it comfortable for a couple to sleep on? Many have suggested the Belhaven 19 before, but it seems like it hasn't received the same level of upgrades or development as the MK3? Recessed Outboard: Is it worthwhile? Does the boat have a mechanism to fold down the bottom when the outboard is not in use, similar to a T-bird 26? This idea makes sense to me, especially if I'm using a shaft with an electric engine and replacing water ballast with lithium batteries. Centerboards on the C&C Version: Are they in the correct position? I've noticed some discussions about relocating them. Retractable Bowsprit: Goal Zero? Staysail: Does anyone still use it, or has the Goal Zero replaced it? Rowing: Is it a practical addition? What is everyone doing for navigation lights? Raspberry Chartplotter?? Is anyone using wind/direction/speed gauge combo? Lots of questions, lots of time here at work waiting for stuff to break...

I have fixed a few of these, use a wood rasp, fair in by eye. Try to minimize the amount of epoxy mixed with a fairing filler that you are going to have to use before painting. The rasp is better than sandpaper when working straight on epoxy. Before you paint 80 grid of course

Pete the one from chick is what I used on my cs17 with some scrap plywood.. I try to rope ladder and a very athletic friend of mine had trouble getting back on. For driving a tour boat, I use what the tow boat guys use a strap that you put over your shoulder and you have to go into the water and they put their foot in it you stand up, and it propels them into the boat.

Let me start with Interlux 2 part primer is AMAZING, tough as nails, and goes on well though stinky. Brightsides is ok, but you have to have a perfect dew point for application for best results, when I lived in Georgia we had a small window every afternoon. This was applied over epoxy that had been sanded with 80 grit and was just fine. Most of my recent experience on restoring boats and some new builds has been using Petite EzPoxy. It's pennies on the dollar compared to high end two parts, applies well over west system, system 3, B&B epoxy, and even bare or bare wood with oils (old motorboat). Buildup is high and sanding is VERY easy. The Petite reps say Interlux or Petite two part primer is fine if your worried about a tough coat on outside of boat, followed by one part Ezpoxy color of your choice.. West marine one part paints are made by Petite as well, but are more limited on colors. My favorite thing with the Ezpoxy is ease of sanding, and ease of touch up due to wear and tear. Also, the one part primer/paint stays good for a long time, and if needed to make it flow better it it's gotten old add a little bit of Xylene. For boat bottoms that aren't staying in the water I'm a fan of Graphite epoxy mix, wet sanded for final coat. I didn't use to think that could make a difference, but doing blades and bottom with that added noticeable speed. I have in past talked to Interlux reps about the Teflon bottom paint, but its made to inhibit sea life a little bit, and while slippery they agreed that graphite epoxy mix is better, and more bang for your buck. Quick notes to think about: 1) Spend time with high power light, and some epoxy with easily sandible filler before you paint. A little filling and fairing will save you money on redoing paint coats later. Use a light colored marker to circle where you need to fill and touch up. 2) Brushes: Jen manufacturing, poly brush, foam brush, dense foam, plastic stifner (Wal-Mart and homedepot cheap foam brush packs do not have the stiffeners). 3) Roller: Wooster 1/8 foam roller is perfect for most paints, and tipping afterwords. 4) Tape: 3m crape tape, or smooth. This is perfect for doing small turns, a little more pricey but worth it. 5) Sanding: 3m roll sand paper, foam hand sander.. Even through duck works not cheapest, but hand sanding is not hard for final stuff, and will make it perfect. I will NEVER use a power sander for finishing on a personal boat again, except for initial sand on epoxy maybe. 6) Paint colors: Marshall cove paint Bainbridge, next to Petite this is amazing paint, and you can send in a color sample and they can mix! Fire engine red, beautiful teal, you name it they can do it. A little but more pricey then Petite but worth it for final coats for custom color. 7) Skinning: Keeping varnish/paint from skinning in can use Bloxegen. Usually for one part I just add and mix well a little Xylene.

http://hookedonwoodenboats.com/ has a great podcast from 2017 Port Townsend show with an interview with Graham. It's about 4 minutes into it, I'm sure there will be another podcast with the full interview.

Never used Everglades Challenge 22 (EC22) plans for sale. Normally $220, make an offer. Located in Silverdale Wa, I have the box to ship.

Do you have any photos of new cabin?

I'll mention it to my Mother. That said, she is 6', same height as me. Not sure how lower seat will effect ease of paddling.

From Joel: The Moccasin build was started in January 2017 (previous post), and finally launched today! Even with winds whipping up in Barr Reservoir (Colorado), the boat tracked well. Included in my post are the build and launch photos. Thanks to all who gave advice! My father loves everything about the canoe, and my mother who grew up in longer heavier river canoes running the North Platte River thinks the boat is a little "tipsy". Ed: To be clear, I helped initially start the boat and stitch it together when I was home in Colorado visiting. My father carried on with help from my mother and finished it. http://www.foggysailing.com/2017/06/moccasin-2-canoe-finished-and-launched.html

No the nose never got rounded. Just planed to a pleasant angle once stitch and glue was done.