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  2. An other OC20 build !!

    Any idea of how to clamp an anchor roller where right trough bolts cannot be used ? I was thinking of drilling a hole , put a stainless steel stud in and fill the surrounding with epoxy . Is that enough ? I can put 5 studs in the anchor roller I'm using.
  3. Today
  4. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    Sole installation locations readied. Sticking them in. One left to do.
  5. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    The rest of the hatch ring moulds and the parts.
  6. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Steve it has been a while since I've checked in and you are making some really good progress. Keep plugging away. Kevin
  7. Tested the Skin in SoF

    After paddling SoF's for a few years, I finally got a real world test of durability. My neighbor and I went out on the Mohawk River earlier this summer. Water levels were reasonable, but the depths vary quite a bit across the water. Rumor has that the canal system has flooded what used to be sections of the original Erie canal, with the towpaths beside it... so there's some sections that are deep. Go a few feet over, and the water gets shallow, real quick. There's some good sized boulders in there, too. Y'all can see where I'm going with this, can't you? The neighbor is the competitive type. She's 100% Italian, and I tend towards the Irish side of the family. Anything the one of us can do, the other's gotta do better. She took the wife's 13' Sea Bee out, and I took my 17' Sea Rider. It's been years since my neighbor paddled, but she got into it pretty good... and inevitably, time came for "Hey, how fast can you go in that thing?" I'd set the pace, and she'd keep up... push it a bit further... she'd keep up... wash, rinse, repeat. Eventually she started falling behind, but not by much. We kept it up a bit, 'til all I heard behind me was a bunch of words that would turn a sailor blue. I glanced over my shoulder, and couldn't see her. Worried about her capsizing (she had a PFD on), I edged and turned quickly... to see her sitting in the middle of the river, at a dead stop. Apparently there were a set of boulders just under the water, and she hit between two of them as we were racing. I had to get behind and lift the stern up and off. Left behind some yellow Rustoleum on the rocks, and what you don't see in the photo is the rock 4 foot away with blue paint/plastic. Apparently we're not the only ones to have "found" these waterborne hazards. My neighbor was convinced she'd sunk the boat. Obviously she swapped paint a bit, but the fabric held without a drop of water penetrating. Scraped a layer of paint off, and maybe knocked a chip an 1/8" square in one spot. I'm very satisfied with how well it held up. The fabric is Jeff's polyester... been a few years since I built it, so I can't remember if it's the economy 6 ounce or the regular 8. I tried Dave Gentry's method of squeegeeing a thin coating of PL Premium over the entire hull, then a couple coats of Rustoleum paint until the color looks good and any pin holes are sealed. I'm happy with the results of the real world test. Link to the album and high resolution images at PostImage: https://postimg.org/gallery/g07wenly/
  8. Yesterday
  9. Prop to bearing distance...

    You'll have to make a compromise there. The gap between the prop hub and the shaft bearing should be as small as possible to reduce the bending loads on the shaft but there should be clearance between the propeller blades and the skeg. The closer the propeller blades are to the skeg (or the hull or the rudder) the more vibration will be felt. In "Propeller Handbook" Dave Gerr suggests a minimum of 0.3x the prop diameter between the blades and the skeg, but that may be too much distance between the prop hub and the bearing. I bet PAR will give you a much more definitive (and helpful) answer than I did.
  10. Short Shot kit

    Still available.
  11. toilet bowl cleaner to clean hull

    Toilet bowl cleaner usually has abrasives in it, which works fine on porcelain, but not so much on gelcoat or paint. To address stains, figure out what it is and use a cleaner intended for that material. Most general surface cleaners, like 409 do a pretty good job. Stubborn stuff that chemicals don't get all of, can usually be buffed out. Once it's clean, use a good bit of wax to protect the surface, so stains are less likely to sink into the coatings.
  12. Sailing the CS17

    Comments for sailing the cat ketch in these higher winds would be great. Drop the sails and motor home.
  13. An other OC20 build !!

    Yes you'r right . I am dropping the idea of a pulpit . Think a short extension will do it all. The extension also insures that the anchor will not hit the boat when retrieved. The sheer frame is almost done and gave the boat a different look
  14. Do you guys use a toilet bowl cleaner to remove stains on the outsides of your boat?
  15. Sailing the CS17

    I case you haven't already been doing this - I liked to sail with the mizzen sheet cleated and the main sheet in my hand. Having the sheet in my hand allows very quick sheet adjustments and (for me, anyway) greater confidence. I wouldn't recommend sailing in wind that you don't enjoy. It's supposed to be fun and with experience you'll find that you are comfortable in more and more varied conditions. And towards that end, when you find a comfortable day with a moderate, steady breeze, play around with angles of heel. Sit up on one rail and see how close you can get the other rail to the water before you get uncomfortable. Don't go so far that you feel like you're going to roll the boat, just lay the boat over a bit. I found that my CS17 seemed to sail best when it was pretty upright but I was surprised how far I could heel the boat without bringing water over the coaming. I actually did get the coaming under water a few times without rolling the boat (and once I did roll the boat but that's a different story).
  16. An other OC20 build !!

    It seems like that slot is going to get quite a lot of wear from the chain dragging through it. That might be another reason to make it removeable (replaceable). That anchor shape lends itself well to being stored on a roller instead of using a slot, too. I've really been enjoying this build thread - So many pretty pictures.
  17. Prop to bearing distance...

    Is there a minimum and/or maximum for this distance? Thanks
  18. Last week
  19. Sailing the CS17

    Wind blew hard again all day from the NE. I decided to give it a go and double reefed the main and left the Mizzen full. The first big gust made me turn around and head back into the cove. There I hove to just like ya'll said and put a reef in the mizzen. That was a pretty good set up except that both sails very loose and sheeting in was not a good idea. I am guessing the wind was 20 to 30 and honestly I I felt that I was not prepaired for sailing in wind over 20. Comments for sailing the cat ketch in these higher winds would be great.
  20. NY Curlew finally complete

    It not the easiest to sew. Do it last and don't be afraid to back up and start over. The original 8 oz is the best choice for that because you can shift the weave of the fabric around to better fit the shape.
  21. NY Curlew finally complete

    I like the look of the stern with the skin pulled close to the fan tail as you've done here. I've been visualizing how I'm going to do that. Having never stitched a boat, it seems like a complicated shape to work around. Great color as well.
  22. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    I saw a variety of holes cut in the seat comings and decided to go for my own look. I made a paper template and decided on a look.The top of the opening follows the radius of the top of the coming. It looked goofy until that change. Then I made a template (becomes a backing plate) and taped it to again make sure it looked good. I also maybe want to put a way to put a drink holder somehow in there and tested that. I thought they looked great but was reminded how simple this probably is on a CNC machine and Alan or Graham could have done the design, looked at in a model, adjusted it if necessary and "printed" out the part in short order. But it was fun. I made a second one with a pattern bit and the router table and then gang cut the two openings on the real coming. Next I put a small radius on the two backing plates (formerly templates) and glued them on to the backside of the comings. this may not be necessary, but they stiffen things a bit and allow a bigger radius (1/4") and give a more robust (thicker) appearance to the opening. And a morning was used up. It's a marathon, not a sprint.
  23. NY Curlew finally complete

    Love the colors and this is still one of my favorite designs. I love the lines of that boat.
  24. NY Curlew finally complete

    Very nice job! And well worth the wait.
  25. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    Wow!! Wow!! Helluva a project! Work looks great...looks like you've thought everything out....GL
  26. NY Curlew finally complete

    Wife's Curlew was first, then did the Stonefly canoe for myself. Made the kid's one for my youngest and now making a SUP for my oldest. Planning an expedition kayak for myself though.
  27. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    Forward 2/3's of the ceilings planked, and glassed, and rough faired,
  28. Sailing the CS17

    He who suggests it, does it! At the moment I am trying to compile and sort comments made about rigging and sailing the Coresound Ketches. I will submit for your appraisal once completed.
  29. Sailing the CS17

    Well until a new "sailing attributes" thread comes along I will keep on posting my sailing adventures. All comments will be appriciated and hopefully, to those who have not finished there build, the posts will add encouragement to finish by next sailing season. I'm not a big cold water enthusiast but i think we have some more good sailing days comming. The weather is forcast to improve.
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