Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Today
  2. After finishing the primer coats, I found some defects/pin holes that I wanted to address so I went back with fairing compound in a few places. I should have followed up with a primer coat in these areas, not so much for paint adhesion, but to reduce the number of paint coats I'd need to obscure the green fairing compound. But, I was out of primer, and my order for more primer and paint just got delayed a week. In any case, I moved on to painting with the 2-part Epifanes Polyurethane. I also only have one 750ml can of this as I'm waiting on the same delayed shipment. It seems like 1 can gets me about 2 - 2.5 coats. It's really unfortunate that the paint is delayed, as I was assuming I'd be able to apply the 3rd and maybe 4th final coats without having to sand -- since the recoat window is 48 hours. I'll try to see if I can obtain the paint locally, but it's not looking good. But hey, the boat is starting to really look professional now!
  3. Last week
  4. A beautiful design and build! Flipping her over is a real turning point ( not really intending a pun). Great for your neck, not having to twist and turn to see what she will look like in her intended orientation. Love seeing this build progressing. A bit nostalgic for that focused time building Rosie.... Ken
  5. You should not have to fight with the bolt every time you raise the mast. You just have to get the geometry right. The mast swings through a 17 1/4" arc between the hinge bolt and the center of the bottom bolt. Over the 3" mast diameter, the hole needs to be elongated an extra 1/16" vertically or it will bind (see the green lines). Remember that this is all hand made so the fit will have to be finessed. The bottom bolt is angled 2.4 degrees above horizontal. Carefully cut a triangle out of cardboard with sides 6" x 4"x 7 1/16". Position the 6" side up the tabernacle and the 4" side on the bolt to check if it is angled correctly. If it is close I would get a 3/8" round file and drag that mast hole up or down until it goes easily. If the bolt was way off which is unlikely because you have already had the mast up. You could heat the bolt until the epoxy softened which is about 140 degrees take the bolt out and epoxy it back in to the correct angle.
  6. I would like to have mast up sometimes while out on a beach and maybe on the boat lift too. I might lay them down while on the lift for a longer period of time if not using it. Would be nice to be able to do it both ways. Sometimes I will have tent in front deck while camping on beach if not on land with tent. If I was on land camping I could lay the mast down and cover whole boat in rain storms.
  7. I made my hole in the mast on both of by tabernacled boats into a slight oval. I have a scrap of mast that was damaged in shipping that I have cut into a curved form fitting “washer”. The washer has the proper sized hole and when installed it distributes the forces around the perimeter of the mast. Or maybe not….. On the main mast I have always considered that the load path pushes the mast into the radius of the tabernacle, on the mizzen pulls the mast base away from the radius of the tabernacle. When I got my project to a point I could raise the mast on the tabernacle pivot, I wrapped the base of the mast with one layer of some plastic sheeting and put a blob of thickened epoxy to make the tabernacle fit the radius of the mast exactly. Experience (aviation term for something you gain shortly after needed)……don’t use too much goo on this phase or the boat won’t fit in the shop.
  8. Well you can create a wooden frame , known as a wooden wheel and rolled it over with the right combination of room and related equipment. But we wanted to get it up on the trailer with simplicity and less time consuming. Sometimes you cry "uncle" though without crying uncle. We weighed the value coupon against manual labor and the added effort. For our situation the extra effort and materials to get the strongback mobile from the ground in the confined space and on the other side of the yard to the driveway may have been a bit of an overkill. But it was grand beyond wild imagination for the uneven humps and angles. But the setup was absolutely the ticket and two people pushed while one person steered. But the project is a slow and steady piece of work that will hopefully be completed in the next couple of years, if things goes as planned. How do you eat an elephant? one bite at a time. Now its time for Alan to point us in the right direction of locating the fuel tank and related parts to be incorporated under the deck for the desired interior layout that will be determined once we clean out the non essential parts. . By the way I highly recommend solid 8" casters in lieu of pneumatic ones on solid surfaces.
  9. Ah, Don, THAT’s where you got that photo you showed me tonight at your patio table. (We enjoyed the conversation.) The B&B mast float kit I made for Norma T… I named it Bruce after my deceased brother… a nice addition to the boat I named after my mom.
  10. Wow… a lot more needed to be employed than when I asked a neighbor family on their evening walk to help me flip my two builds (Core Sound 15 and 15 foot ski boat.) Simple grunting and some muscling did it just fine… a reason I enjoy the small boat approach. That is quite a project you are doing… it looks great.
  11. I used a round rasp on my drill to grind out enough material out of both bolt holes on either side of the aluminum tube to clear the bolt when swinging the bottom of the mast into place. I also positioned and firmed up the bolt placement in the tabernacle, bolt head and washer in the cabin and a nut in a recessed hole to make the bolt rigid (I also set it with a very slight angle upward, as I recall, since the bottom section of the mast swings into position with an arc movement.) When I bought my boat I think the builder used a system of raising the mast, sliding the bolt through the holes in the mast from the anchor well and through the hole in the tabernacle so that the bolt entered the cabin area. That required somehow holding the raised mast upright and climbing into the cabin to attach the nut from inside (I found that the bolt could unfortunately turn when firming up the nut.) I prefer to have the bolt protruding forward, raising the mast such that the bolt (firmly anchored to the tabernacle structure) goes through the holes in the mast as it reaches the raised position, letting me then screw on the nut from the anchor well (the nut is in a good sized knob which makes tightening easy)… which is the process I think I see in the photo above. To make it work I had to increase the vertical size of the holes with my drill rasp. My boat is in storage now so I can’t get to it for photos. My method works well for me… I stand on the trailer tongue (and on the spare tire I have mounted to the tongue) that gets me high enough to use my weight to press down firmly on the bottom of the mast to raise it, while also pulling on the snotter line to help pull the mast up. The bolt slides right into the holes in the mast and, while holding the mast up by the snotter lines with one hand, I attach the nut. I do the same mast raising process on the CS15 (which is easier to raise up than the heavier my CS17.) I demo what I do at minute 4 of the first video on this webpage: https://bandbyachtdesigns.com/cs15
  12. I don't understand--are you looking to tarp it up with the masts laying down, like in this picture? Or with the masts up?
  13. I need to think of a way to go around the mast maybe bungee cord it to the masts. I can clip it to the gunnel around the edge of the boat. Ripstop material doesn't take up much room when I store it too.
  14. Ah, the day is finally here. Painting has begun! I'm using Epifanes 2-part polyurethane paint and primer. So far I've only put 1 to 2 coats of primer down -- a few places still need their second coat. The first coat I did on the aft side I did not have brush thinner for, and as such, it went down very thick and was not at all easy to apply, especially in corners. I also was using a nap brush rather than a foam brush. After this coat cured, I sanded it pretty good with 220 grit to flatten out any drips etc. But for the fwd end and subsequent coats, I am not sanding, as long as I re-coat within 24-48 hours. The fwd end and subsequent coats I used a foam roller and 10% Epifanes brushing thinner. Those were a piece of cake, and for the detail areas I used a synthetic brush. For the hull corners though, I actually just pressed the roller into the corners after I had laid out most of the paint from the roller. That worked very well. For those wondering about quantities, I used 1 x 750ml can of primer (2 parts) and that got me almost 2 coats. I think it might have gotten me 2 coats if I had used brush thinner the first time around. It's honestly not totally clear if I needed the primer. Epifanes says a primer should be used on epoxy, but I also know people directly paint their epoxy boats with paint. I'm waiting on a fresh order of paint and primer, but I think I will get into actual painting this weekend. Then I will need to flip the boat.
  15. Thank you, @Andy B and @Jonathan M. Cohn , for the info! We're happy to negotiate delivery as well or meet in one of our neighboring states, or even host someone on our lavender farm if they want to fly in to pick it up. The boat tows like a charm, just have to be weary of the graveled winter roads this time of year.
  16. Well we finally got to the stage of flipping.
  17. I remember filing my hole a bit up and down to fit mine. I had the luxury of doing it with just the bottom section before I put the mast together. I don't think a bit of vertical elongation will hurt you much, especially on the inside.
  18. And now the port side. I sure do love Russell Brown’s epoxy techniques.
  19. Thanks for sharing this sketch. It has several ideas I’d like to use in my refurb of an old 17.
  20. My new to me Core Sound 17.3 is having an issue when I raise the main mast. It won't swing smoothly onto the bottom pin / bolt. It appears that the hole in the mast is just a tad high. The previous owner says he never had a real issue but "wrestled with it" sometimes a bit. I have tried swinging it side to side, pushing, pulling, etc. I didn't want to hit the pin with a hammer as its epoxied into the bulkhead. I considered using a bit of heat. Picture attached. I did have it straight when trying to insert but it shifted a bit for the pic. Can I ream out the bottom of the hole a bit with a drill? Other options or thoughts? The mizzen raised and fit right on. Nut screwed on easy. I did it myself with no help, Hoping to get the main to work just as nicely. Incidentally, my 8 year old raised the main mast all by himself and held it while I fiddled with the things in the anchor well. It was fun practice rigging the boat while the weather hit 70. We are back into the 30s. Looking forward to finish my "learning the lines" phase and getting her onto the water.
  21. I'm dredging up this old post because Small Craft Advisor re-published an older article (issue 98) about mast floats, author Stu Whitcomb. This great sketch of his boat caught my eye:
  22. The starboard side has been sheathed in 4oz. now.
  23. Looking some ideas to use ripstop material for a cover for my Core Sound 17 in these pictures. It won't take much room when folded up and its light weight. Some how ro around the two mast and use bungee cord to seal it around the mast and then some large plastic clamps to clip it around the gunnel edge where I have a nice lip. Going around each mast Im thinking how that can be done. If I use two pieces it would be easier to go around the mast and then maybe clip the two edges together. Any Ideas out there???????
  24. Test Launch yesterday. I was nervous about the waterline because of the changes made along the way and because of the tendency for novices to overbuild. I floats nicely about 2" below the waterline with a 25% fuel load. The engine proved too high and we had too much prop pitch (20) , so we are making some adjustments.
  1. Load more activity


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.