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  1. Today
  2. Stonefly thwart question

    As far as thwarts in tension or compression, the answer is yes. A boat is subject to dynamic forces as it moves thru and over the water. For example, as waves lift the ends of a boat with a center thwart, that thwart is in tension. As waves lift the center of a boat and try to hog it, that thwart is in compression. You can see that effect by taking a piece of paper and folding the ends to make a little paper canoe. As you move the ends in and out, the "rails" move in and out.
  3. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    OK, great info. I ordered all the electrical stuff. I'm getting ready to paint the cabin interior. The only thing stopping me is radius-ing the sharp angles (bunk edges, etc.) . I think a 3/16 router bit seems about right, but 1/4 would be softer but weaker. Any thoughts?
  4. Stonefly thwart question

    That is a good question. I have sat here thinking this through and my best answer is yes ... possibly... I am not sure. If there was center thwart any others would likely be in tension since the gunwales would want to spread out. The center would be in compression. If you just have two thwarts toward the ends as I do in mine, I think they would be in tension..... But when you start to take into consider the gunwales being attached to the frames and how the ends are mounted it gets really confusing as to what is going on exactly. Pretty sure two thwarts would be stronger, it would be more rigid but the gunwales are very strong one glued up. As for locations I just walked out and looked at mine and because the seat is so close to center on this boat I think that two thwarts will work better. And I think your yoke is probably going to be in the way of the seat, so you will probably want it removable.
  5. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    I really liked Jays light but it was priced above my comfort zone. I trolled the cruising forums for owner satisfaction and found that there was a high failure rate with expensive return freight and time delays. I am glad that Jay has had good service from his light, hopefully they have corrected the problem. Beside the two wire feature It was small and light. I had not heard of Chick's light when I bought mine. I chose Aqua-Signal because they have a good reputation and warranty and the light is very strong and our local wholesaler delivers them free. The downside is that they are very tall, even taller with the anchor light. They have a clever removal system which I removed and modified to reduce the height. By modifying my light I probably voided my warranty but I was impressed with how well it was potted in epoxy. I did test that the light did indeed work before I messed with it. It has been very good so far but having an anchor light built in would be nice. Yes I do account for the tabernacle offset when installing the track.
  6. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Steve, it works fine, appears well made, and was easy to mount. I thought I was ordering the version for two wires where you switch polarity to change from nav. to anchor lights. After fussing with the supplier because the posting wasn't clear about how to order the right one, I finally gave up and just ran an extra wire. No big deal. I like the light and just added a switch to change from one mode to the other. I looked on Amazon and Ebay yesterday to try to find it fr you, but it doesn't appear to be there anymore. I don't remember the company name now. I'll dig through my files and see if I can find the receipt. If I do, I'll let you know.
  7. Stonefly thwart question

    Ha Jeff I'm honored. Okay I'll have to get creative thanks. While I have you guys here. 1) is a thwart ever in tension? 2) technically what would be stronger- one thwart in the middle or two equally spaced?
  8. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Thanks everybody. Graham, do you put the sail track offset as well? And Chick, that light you have is significantly less expensive...any regrets? .
  9. unpainted aluminum masts

    I didn't put any finish on Southbound's masts. My thinking (which could well be incorrect) was that the process of tempering the material to T6 had already artificially aged (anodized) the surface. Since it's been a few years since I've seen the boat I can't speak for how well the masts have stood the test of time or whether the sleeve-luff sails ended up black but Alan certainly can. Hopefully he will share his observations here.
  10. Early 50's Thompson runabout restore

    If you've already got the ribs there's no reason not to give them a try. At 5/16 you'll probably get most if not all of them bent and if you do have troubles you can laminate the difficult curves as Paul suggested.
  11. FreeB 12 Offset Table Question

    The bow and stern are the longitudinal plywood frames that form the fore and aft ends of the boat. This thread may help:
  12. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Coast Guard or not, you really want to set up your nav lights as accurate as you can. You want to let other craft know what type of vessel you are and what your heading is so that they and you can take appropriate action. The tabernacle does prevent mast rotation but remember that we wedge the tabernacle 2 degrees so that the main mast comes down clear of the mizzen mast, I like to account for that.
  13. At night if the mast is rotated, more than would look normal, I'd bet the harbor patrol would drive up and ask about it, if someone was in a bad mood. If they do stop, you know they'll find something to give you a ticket for . . .
  14. Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Um, does the Coast Guard really check for rotating masts?
  15. Marissa # 63

    Gotta say, that looks pretty enticing when I look out the window and see the yard in snow and look at the thermo-meter and see 21.2 degrees.
  16. Yesterday
  17. FreeB 12 Offset Table Question

    Hi Folks, First off, thanks for all the great info. I just got the Fuselage Frame Boats book and am practicing drawing out frames with the FreeB plans. I get that the table on the left is for the frames (see attached photo) but what are the middle and right tables for? Bow and stern? Is there somewhere this info should be and I'm just not seeing it? Thanks much! Andy
  18. Marissa # 63

    You probly no my Father in laws house then. He had a 54 ketch called the vagrant gypsy right there on the river south of I10 . Built his house there so as to be close to his boat which took him 3 years to build down in Honduras. This is were Marrisa #63 will be living when all finished
  19. Early 50's Thompson runabout restore

    What kind of grain; flat sawn, quarter, vertical?
  20. Stonefly thwart question

    Tom: The right place for your yoke is at the center of gravity (CG). So, as Jeff suggests, pick up the boat upside down and see where it balances. If you will be stowing paddles and other gear in the boat as your portage, lash those in place when determining the CG. If the place you determine is clear of thwarts and not otherwise in the way, you can permanently attach the yoke there, as is done on many canoes. If the yoke would be in the way, rig up a removable yoke as is standard on Adirondack guide boats. Guide boats have wood cleats on both sides with U-shaped slots where the ends of the yoke fit. See the attached photo as an example. Fair winds, Andy
  21. Stonefly thwart question

    Make the thwart too long and use clamps, then follow through on Jeff's suggestion. Are you fabricating a yoke shaped thwart?
  22. Stonefly thwart question

    Wow, that is question I have not had before. My best suggestion is just trying it out by temporarily mounting it in place and carrying it around and find where it works best for you. A long carry for me is to take it from the trailer down to the water. ;-)
  23. Early 50's Thompson runabout restore

    Thanks for more tips, I need everything I can get. I was wrong on the thickness of the ribs, they are 5/16ths not 7/16ths. Hope this helps me out a bit. Got everything ready this morning to turn it over and start this adventure Monday. Par I the new ribs have very straight grain, but I cut these out about four years ago and they are very dry I'm sure. Scott
  24. Stonefly thwart question

    Any tips on where to place the thwart for carrying the canoe longer distances? We are talking up to a mile long. Will be portaging multiple lakes with gear and canoe. I'm used to a big fiberglass barge, the only real option is having the middle thwart over your shoulders. Any suggestions? Thanks! Tom
  25. Early 50's Thompson runabout restore

    When bending stock, it's all about stock selection. Avoiding grain run out, defects, using a sheet metal backer as you bend, and green stock helps tremendously. When bending questionable stock (dry, grain run out, etc.) expect 50% breakage in the worst of the aft bilge turn pieces. Even if you use perfect stock, you're going to experence breakage, so have a 10 - 15% over supply of stock (best case). On ribs of those dimensions, you'll get some "bust out" on the outside of the bend (unless quite rift sawn), so back it up with a steel or aluminum strap as it's bent (assuming in place on the boat), to help prevent this occurrence to challenge your inventive cursing techniques. Moisture content is important and soaking helps, but it's the heat that gets the job done, so have a heat gun (a good one) ready, to convince the last bit to go in. Lastly, consider over bending about 10% of the radius in the tighter areas. You'll have some spring back once it's released and relaxes a bit. Placing a 1x2 or 2x4 (or wedges/shims) under the rib as it's bent in, can get this accomplished and use the eyeball method, for the amount of additional bend you might need. On repairs and restorations like this, I usually make adjustable bending jigs, so I can bend them on a bench, rather than fight with them in the boat. This insures I get accurate bends, including spring back and of course makes laminating much easier. Lastly, these puppies are notorious for "tension cracks" in the aft sections of the bilge turn. I almost always laminate these, to avoid them in the future. Contrary to popular opinion, all the oaks epoxy well, once you remove the tannins with a chemical scrub, just prior to applying goo.
  26. Early 50's Thompson runabout restore

    Never thought about using green wood Ken. I have about 25 white oak ribs already cut they are 1 1/4 wide by 7/16ths thick. I bent two of the easy ones a few years ago by just soaking them a few days. Hoping that they bend even easier steamed. Read somewhere that soaking them a while before steaming that they will take the bending even easier than just steaming. I have seen red oak soaked where you could just about ty a knot in it. But white oak is a different animal, doesn't soak up water real easy. Red oak does like a straw and will fill up its whole core till its water logged. The only thing that worries me right now is the bow work. I can see this whole boat would be much easier to build new, than trying to replace stuff in reverse. Anyway this is a new woodworking class for me
  27. How To Cut Stringers Flush to Bow Stem

    Thank you very much for the complete tip, PAR!
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