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  2. Pete, she looks awesome. Take lots of pictures. It will be a bit before "no name" aND Chessie are on the water together.
  3. Today
  4. Good luck Pete. Chessie is looking really great. I'm liking the sail covers.
  5. I think that as long as you don't let the boat fill with water while its sitting on the trailer you're not likely to have any issues with the boat warping or distorting from being supported by bunks or rollers with just a single keel roller at about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way back from the bow. My 18' boat & my Snipe are both supported that way - and they've never had an issue. I've seen flooded boats have real issues - big dents in the hull at the support points - because of all the weight of getting full of rain water. Of course it never rains on Camano Island.... Good luck hunting for a trailer! It took me nearly 4 months to find what I was looking for the CS-15 I sold - and I found that one on Camano! Paul
  6. I faired the cockpit tapes because I wanted the interior to look smooth. It was a pain, but I like it now that it's painted.
  7. Yesterday
  8. A shout out to the great folks at Metal Supermarkets. I went in to see about getting the aluminum strips for the keel and they were very helpful. And I only had to go to Everett instead of Seattle for Online Metals. As a bonus, he's able to sheer off some 5052 from a sheet in lieu of bar stock (which is pretty readily available in 6061) and phoned a couple of metal artisans in his network to see about fabricating the stem. They passed on their approach which I think is going to work.
  9. Yes I am. I will be taking this to Alamitos Bay, Long Beach.
  10. "Chessie" is anxious to travel and wants her skipper to make her road-ready. She has her tires at 50 psi and her tow vehicle on standby in her stall: She'll just have to be patient. Tomorrow I load her with safety equipment try to make rain gutters for the aft locker's hatch. Thursday she'll be made road-ready for departure Friday am for Solomons Island and the Chesapeake CatBoat Association's annual Patuxant River Shootout (handycapped races) on Sunday. I hope that we (son Jim & I) beat them all. But they will probably assign a handicap factor that will set us back to reality. After this weekend sail we take Chessie to North Carolina for B & B to look her over and give me a few tips on sailing a "cat-ketch" rig. And especially lowering sails and furling them as if in an emergency. Hopefully we'll get a few good photos which will be shared on the forum.
  11. Watch your overall length of truck and trailer. Washington State Ferries tier their prices in painful ten foot intervals "under 30 feet", "under 40 feet", and "under 50 feet". I'm able to stay under 40 feet but I had to position the mast so it hangs over the front of the CS17 and shift the trailer axle forward to achieve a manageable tongue weight. The fixed axle position on your proposed trailer might make you comprise either tongue weight or overall length.
  12. Just back from the FL120 here is my rig ready to hit the road last week. Crutches at main and mizzen mast steps and a gudgeon mounted crutch on the transom. I wrap my sails around the mast leaving all halyards in place ( my sail battens are vertical instead of traditional horz, just enough to keep the roach open in light air). Canvas sleeves are pulled over mast to keep sails clean and lines contained. Mast are laid in crutches and sprits laid on top and bungee corded at each crutch. Boat is held to trailer with 2*4 cross bars that extend far enough beyond the hull to keep ratchets and straps from touching the hull. Normally I only use the aft cross bar unless traveling long distances or carrying kayaks on top.
  13. My philosophy to fairing the inside tape was to get the edges smooth enough that it wouldn't be unpleasant when I was barefooted in the boat.
  14. Thanks Paul. There's this one here for $400. I think these are the same CE Smith that are available through Cabela's for about $900 Capacity = 800lbs. But at $400, I'd still need to add rollers--probably at least 3, maybe 4? That's another $100-$150. And it looks like this one could use some bearing buddies. (The rollers I have are pretty hammered. I think only one turns. I might be able to rebuild them for less though?) But given the overhang code in the RCW, I get a little concerned. I was in North Carolina a few weeks ago and the highways are so much less congested that I think its easier for guys like @Alan Stewart to get away with overhang like the below. I take both the motor and the rudder off when I trailer it. But maybe it would be ok? As rickety as mine is, what I like about it is that there is a walk way down the middle. I usually back down until the aft roller is just under the water surface. But this usually means the wheels are submerged. In saltwater no less. It also has a pretty long tongue that allows me to put the tailgate on my pickup down to see when backing up for retrieval. By the time I can see the trailer in my mirror it's already too far gone. But if I add guides to the end of the new trailer, that might solve that problem. Or I could get a shin-buster (aka hitch extension) to get the crank out past the tailgate. This trailer is a bit longer.
  15. That's a very sleek looking kayak! Are you in southern California?
  16. Greendane - Thanks for the information on the overhang - I will go actually measure mine rather than guesstimate! My 18' boat (picture below) has been on this same trailer (https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tro/6135876390.html ) since shortly after I built it - and I love it. It's loads easy & quick, always tracks right down the center regardless of how crooked the boat is before I start cranking and I can load & unload the boat with the axle hubs level with the water. I do store it inside and I have had to do some weld repair on it at one point & painted it twice - but pretty good for 30 years of on & off saltwater service. This guy is asking a bit much for a painted trailer 1970's trailer but he's had it listed before so he may be willing to come down a lot. The CS 15' I built (since sold) I put on a much smaller galv trailer like what you were looking at - and then we put rollers on the back. Paul
  17. Yeah, what he said
  18. Taking the motor off the transom is a good idea. It reduces the polar moment of (rotational) inertia.
  19. Normally, I agree with Graham, but let me tell you a story, in case you start thinking about boxes on your trailer for spars. Many moons ago, my brother had a sailboard-- a Mossberg Mallard. He thought it would be clever to make a box on the trailer for storing the spars. He hinged it at the rear, and secured ithe door with a hasp. While trailering it, the door became undone, and the mast disappeared forever. We had a devil of a time getting a replacement, due to the odd rig on this boat. Because of this, I prefer to have my spars either 1) where I can see them, or 2) in the hold.
  20. I have about three feet of overhang on mine and don't worry about it too much- I do take my motor off for trailering though since it just seems like it is not a smart idea to add that weight cantilevered over the end-
  21. Wow, Paul. I gotta have some of those 'mites! Is poxy poisonous to theme? I'd hate to take the trouble to breed a colony, but lose them all in their first job. Ken, I've tried helium. The volume required need ballast (anti ballast) tanks WAY to big. I have had some luck with sky hooks, but there is not always a cloud in the right place to hook them to. The new, cloudless variety would work better, but with today's state-of-the-art technology, they are way out of my price range. All kidding aside, I'll have no trouble lifting my end, but Miss Debbie is gonna have to go to the gym and lift weights to build herself up. I haven't told her that yet, though. Now that that's outa the way, it's time to go out to the garage and finish making and installing the keel, a bit if fairing the outside seams, and cogitating on what we're gonna do about paint. I'd ask the canoe, but until it's "born" and named, it won't be able to talk. No point in asking Turtler; he say's ''If red is good enough for me, it's good enough for a dumb canoe." Summer Breeze says, "There are only two colors for a boat, green or black, and only an idiot would paint a boat black."
  22. All that said, I think I'll concern myself less with the overhang and more with the tongue weight and axel placement. The biggest hassle I see on Craigslist is that most trailers come with a boat you have to get rid of that doesn't work. 😉
  23. Hi Paul. I asked a State Trooper I know. While it may not be that it is enforced much, this RCW applies if I understood him correctly. RCW 46.37.140 Lamps, reflectors, and flags on projecting load. (1) On any vehicle having a load that extends more than four inches beyond its sides or more than four feet beyond its rear, there must be displayed red or orange fluorescent warning flags, not less than eighteen inches square, marking the extremities of such loads. (2) Whenever the load upon any vehicle extends to the rear four feet or more beyond the bed or body of the vehicle, there must be displayed at the extreme rear end of the load at the times specified in RCW 46.37.020: (a) Two red lamps, visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet to the rear; (b) Two red reflectors, visible at night from all distances within six hundred feet to one hundred feet to the rear when directly in front of lawful lower beams of headlamps, and located so as to indicate maximum width; and (c) A red lamp on each side, visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet to the side, and located so as to indicate maximum overhang.
  24. I use a dual action sander (oscillating sander) to smooth the edges of the tape on the areas that will be varnished. The tape edge is smoothed down until it blends in with the wood. This is after the tape has had the first coat of poxy to apply plus a filler coat. Both coats extend beyond the edge of the tape. When the final coat of poxy and varnish are applied, the tape disappears. For areas that are painted, I do a quick sanding to knock off the edge with the sander, then fill with Q-cell/poxy. Then sand fair. Some folks use a scraper to knock the edge down. As Graham says, that's all that's needed inside lockers.
  25. Greendane - I'm not sure what WA state rule you're finding that says the overhang needs to be less than 4'. The RCW I find says: RCW 46.44.034 Maximum lengths—Front and rear protrusions. *** CHANGE IN 2017 *** (SEE 1149-S.SL) *** (1) The load, or any portion of any vehicle, operated alone upon the public highway of this state, or the load, or any portion of the front vehicle of a combination of vehicles, shall not extend more than three feet beyond the front wheels of such vehicle, or the front bumper, if equipped with front bumper. This subsection does not apply to a front-loading garbage truck or recycling truck while on route and actually engaged in the collection of solid waste or recyclables at speeds of twenty miles per hour or less. (2) No vehicle shall be operated upon the public highways with any part of the permanent structure or load extending in excess of fifteen feet beyond the center of the last axle of such vehicle. This subsection does not apply to "specialized equipment" designated under 49 U.S.C. Sec. 2311 that is operated on the interstate highway system, those designated portions of the federal-aid primary system, and routes constituting reasonable access from such highways to terminals and facilities for food, fuel, repairs, and rest. That says the overhang can't be more than 15'. Is there something else I'm missing? I've trailered an 18' boat all over WA with an overhang on the 5 1/2' range for the last 30 years with no issues or complaints. It's all about getting the tongue weight at 10% of the trailer & boat weight so it doesn't fish tail. If there is a real rule limiting it to 4' I'd really like to know - all three of my boats exceed that. Paul
  26. Keep your eye on craigslist. Be picky. You can spend a lot of money modifying a trailer. I use etrailer.com for this sort of thing. For salt water use, you need a galvanized trailer, of course. Also, there are times when a tilt trailer is handy. I don't have this feature. Once, when reservoir levels were low, I couldn't get the boat deep enough in the water to launch.
  27. Having owned a Load Rite 16 trailer for the past few years I can say that it's been the perfect size for launching Petunia without much more fuss than adjusting the bunks angle from it's traveling position (aft ends of bunks raised to conform better to the hull shape), to a simple slide off when the bunks are lowered. One thing I did find this past weekend was that the tongue/trailer jack seem to be the most susceptible while storing the boat. I had a call from the marina last week in which they told me "you might want to come over here, it appears that someone has run over your trailer..." SO obviously I did and found that "apparently" a commercial trucking company was moving a large boat from the travel lift to a storage position and they clipped the tongue/jack of the trailer, (see pix). Boat seems unscathed, but the masts now both have a slight tweak and I'm wondering if a little whip lash activity could have been the culprit. I had to laugh when the insurance adjuster asked which repair shop I might want to take the masts to for a look, since most shops would look at the carbon fiber wraps, and wooden plug at the mast head before telling me it was a "custom job". Long story short, NO witnesses, therefore it's considered a "hit and run"by the police. Boat US insurance ( now really Geico) will pay for a replacement trailer as the Load Rite distributor came and "totaled" the trailer saying the frame is out of alignment, etc. and Petunia and I have a looooong road trip coming up in the Fall (more to follow on that one...). In short, a good trailer makes much of what we want to do with our boats possible.
  28. Walt, I Have nothing against honest structural components on the inside. I tend to fuss with fairing the outside but I usually pull a scraper along the edges of the inside taping.
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