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#82505 Carla Byrnes

Posted by Chick Ludwig on 19 September 2014 - 04:47 AM

I talked with Carla yesterday. She is doing MUCH better. She is off of anti-biotics now and the infection is gone. She has 5 sets of plates, screws, and rods in her neck, but---this is hard to believe---she has a full range of motion!. And NO PAIN! She is able to eat normally now, and it "all comes out the way it is supposed too." She has lost a lot of weight through her ordeal. She feels good but is still very weak. Her main job now is to build up her strength and endurance to the point that she can begin physical therapy. She still has more surgery to come on her lower back. (Still pain in her lower back, That was where she was originally supposed to have the surgery until tests indicated a very dangerous situation in her neck.) This will happen, maybe, in December.

 

She is back in he office trying to get everything back on track---including Graham. Her computer went down just as she got back, and they went through a period when the phone system was "off line". Who did I just hear saying "When it rains, it pours."? Beth was a great help in getting out plans and such.

 

Carla is very thankful to all of of you for your concerns, well wishes, and prayers. She said that there were literally thousands of people, church groups, and friends praying for her, and she credits this for her recovery from a very dangerous and trying situation. Thank you to all of you. And most of all, thanks to God!




#70696 CS20 mk.2

Posted by Designer on 22 August 2012 - 09:01 PM

Here are a couple of newer pictures. We are hoping to be sailing at the messabout.Attached File  CS20 2 20.jpg   86.59KB   148 downloadsAttached File  CS20 2 tabernacle.jpg   131.12KB   142 downloads


#86558 New sail track

Posted by Designer on 13 June 2015 - 10:19 AM

It has been a long time coming. I have never been happy with the stainless steel external track. Until now it was the only track available.

 

Many years ago, I used to be able to get 5/8 and 7/8 internal track. I have searched long and hard over the years and finally got back to the company that had the original die, but I could not justify the huge cost to do a run. I do not even think it exists anymore.

 

I even modified some cutters and machined some track out of Starboard. It worked very well but was labor intensive and it was a bit bulky.

 

Alan contacted about 10 aluminum extruders and so the work began. We decided that over the years we have used enough track to make the big investment.

 

We began to list all of the properties we wanted and probably drew hundreds of versions before we committed. We wanted it to be strong enough for a 30' boat, but light enough for a Core Sound. The last weekend that I worked on it I was able to save a few more hundreds of an ounce per foot. We realized that we had better get it right or we would have the worlds most expensive recycling.

 

We took a deep breath and invested in having the die made.  The company just sent us a 3 foot trial sample, to evaluate before we make the big run.  We are really happy with it; it is everything we wanted and hoped for.

 

It is made of 6061 T-6 aluminum which is the same as the spars, so there is no galvanic interaction. It weighs 2.7 oz per foot. The track is clear anodized and pre-drilled for 5/32" countersunk rivets, or #8 flat head machine screws. It also has a V-groove down the center, so if you want/need to add and in-between fastener; or an end of section faster, because your cut length is not at the end of a standard length.  It is has a radius on the back side to fit from 6" down to 1 1/2" round spar tubes. It has flat on each side of the edge on the back, so it will also fit flat on a wooden mast, with round or flat sections (box sections).  It is much stiffer and straighter than the SS external track and it fits true to the surface (doesn't tilt off), which makes it easier to install.  The corners are well radiused to prevent chafe on the sprit.  

 

It takes standard 5/8" internal nylon sail slides.  The slides slide more easily than on the external track.  

 

The best thing of all is that with all these features and advantages it will cost less to our builders (or others) than the ss track.  We expect to be able to sell it for about $35.00 per 8' length; vs.  $39.00 for a slightly under 6' section of ss 5/8" track.  After a lot of soul searching, we decided on 8' lengths so we can ship FedEx.

 

The picture shows the track on a 1 1/2" tube with a nylon slide.Attached File  sailtrack1 (790x665).jpg   58.77KB   13 downloads 




#82135 Carla Byrnes

Posted by Designer on 04 September 2014 - 09:26 PM

Thanks again for every ones wishes and concern. Carla was released on Monday and tonight she looked the best that she has been since the surgery. She has been up and down before but if she does not slip back over the next couple of days I am confident that she will be past the worst.




#82107 Carla Byrnes

Posted by mcdermitt on 03 September 2014 - 04:35 PM

I talked with Graham this afternoon.  Carla is back in the hospital with what ever the infection is she has.  It is making it rouph on Graham.  You can tell in his voice he is worried about his wife.  He is a awfully good man to help us build our boats and take time to talk to us.  We need to pray for him as well as Carla.  When ever I go work in the boat I just stop and pray for both of them and I can not wait till I hear she is home and on the mend Stop for a moment and pray for both of them

I DO NOT THINK GRAHAM WANT TO BURDEN US WITH HIS TROUBLES BUT WHAT ARE FRIEND AND CO-WORKERS FOR.
Thanks




#81889 Carla Byrnes

Posted by Designer on 25 August 2014 - 07:13 PM

Thanks again for all of the well wishes. Since yesterday there has been quite a turn around. She is starting to eat again and able to keep it down.

 

We are quite optimistic.




#81262 Carla Byrnes

Posted by Designer on 22 July 2014 - 06:20 AM

I want to thank everyone for their support and well wishes. Carla got out of surgery at around 5 pm yesterday. The doctor said that everything went well. Marissa and I drove home after they moved her from the post-op to a room. She as alert and able to communicate and all of her vitals looked good. Beth is staying with her. She can come home in three to five days depending on her recovery rate.

 

The bad news is that they were originally going to repair the upper and lower spine at the same time but decided the the upper was so bad that they addressed it first and she will have to go back for a second round once they deem her to be ready. She will be convalescing for a long time.

 

Marissa is home from college and will be running the office as best as she can. I want to thank everyone in advance for their patience.




#80084 Converting "Fly Fisher" into a sailboat.

Posted by Action Tiger on 08 May 2014 - 11:36 AM

I will second those Core Sound boats. Lots of boat, there.
Also, Richard, people DO build SOF sailboats. They also build sailboats from plastic bottles, and concrete.
Dave is right about a good sailboat. It makes sailing fun. So do good sails.
I have built some turds.

Don't break too many rules until you learn them fairly well.

That pointy triangle boat looks like a death trap. I'd want my buoyancy further forward.

Then again, what do I know? I never listen. Just ask my mom, or wife, or kids...


#79250 CS17 mk3 and CS20 mk3

Posted by Designer on 19 March 2014 - 08:46 PM

I have just about finished making the first CS17 mk3 kit, I made the centerboard today. I am working on final tweaking and finishing up the plans and should have them available soon. There is a lot of detail and it takes time to get it all together.

 

I have been sneaking in a few duplicate parts so that I can have one.




#78489 Epoxy Tricks

Posted by PAR on 14 February 2014 - 09:03 AM

Long boards come in various shapes, lengths and sizes, usually geared to match the job. A 1/2" plywood board is too stiff for most boats, except in large expanses of relatively flat areas. I've got a number of boards, one of my favorites is made from 1/8" Lexan. It's 4" wide, about 20" long and fairly flexible, so I can work compound curves. I have ones that are 1/8" and 1/4" plywood too and even one made from 14 gauge aluminum sheet. I buy paper on rolls and cut to length, using a spray adhesive to mount them, though you can just as easily use a clip or slot at each end, to hold the paper to the board.

 

Technique is key with a boogie board (board-'o-pain). Typically you work from one end of the area (or hull side) in a single direction, across it's full length. You select an appropriate angle, which often seems to be about 30 degrees to the centerline and stroke the board at this angle the full length of the area. All strokes are at this angle, leaving a series of angled scratches. You then come back at the opposite angle, in the other direction, netting a cross hatched pattern of scratches. The low spots will be clearly visible, not having scratches in them and the high spots will be knocked down a touch. At this point, you mark the low spots and apply a little filler in these areas. The next pass with the torture board is focused on the now filled low spots, so you can knock them down to surrounding areas. I often use a very light dusting of primer at this point to fine tune the surface and help see what needs what. Again, working a common angle, you run from one end, to the other, placing a new diagonal scratch pattern and come back on the reciprocal angle for the cross hatch pattern. Each pass will continue to knock down the high spots and reveal the lows you've missed on previous passes.

 

A pro will make three passes with the cross hatched, long board pattern. The first to find the lows, the second to knock the lows back once filled and the final pass, to even everything up. The backyard fairer, can make a career out of this process, with many passes and filling sessions. The more you work this set of steps, the fairer and smoother the hull will be. The same process is used with paint, if you want a baby's butt surface, just with finer grits, usually wet. It helps a lot to have the right lighting for this process. You can have too much light, particularly if it's directly over head. You want a low angle of light, so you can see the shadows in the low spots.

 

The biggest mistakes novices make are not using a long board, thinking a palm sander or orbital will do and over working the surface. The Harbor Freight "in line sander" linked above shouldn't be used. It will remove material at an alarming rate and it's not flexible enough to conform to curved surfaces. That particular Harbor Fright tool is a single piston design and you'll be in serious pain, with just a 1/2 hour of use. It's a real piece of crap and if you want one, get a duel action/piston design so it doesn't tear your elbows off. Try not to get aggressive with material removal, just lightly scratch the surface, so you can see what's high and what needs to be filled. On plywood hulls you'll bring the lows up to the highs for the most part, so skim coat the lows with some filler and knock these filled areas back locally at first, then with the long board passes. A jitter bug (palm sander), DA or orbital sander will not fair a surface, just smooth it. Fairing and smoothing operations are wholly different. The long board fairs. Once the surface is fair, then you can move onto smoothing operations. Fair is what you can see, while smooth is what you feel. A surface can be smooth, but quite unfair. A dent in a car door is a classic example of this. The dent can be polished and really smooth, but the light reflection will clearly show it's not fair.




#77996 CS17 mk3 and CS20 mk3

Posted by Designer on 13 January 2014 - 09:40 PM

We waved farewell to Doug today as he drove off with his new Mk3. We were happy to get her out of the shop to get a good look at her rather than being too close all of the time. I feel that she more than met my expectations and you can still see the Core Sound heritage.

 

There is decent headroom, without the trunk cabin. It is very comfortable laying back against the hull, at 5' 7" sitting as tall as I could, my head was not touching the deck. I think that a 6 footer could find a comfortable position.

Attached Files




#76714 CS17 mk3 and CS20 mk3

Posted by Designer on 04 October 2013 - 08:12 PM

Rather than hijack the mk2 thread I will start a new one.

 

Chick asked that I post some pictures of the mk3.

 

I started on a cabin version of the CS17 at least 5 years ago.  I got involved in the big cat project and shelved it for a while. One night after work I was showing Alan some drawings that never made it. When we came upon the CS17 with the raised deck, Alan became excited by it's potential.

 

I cyber dusted off the oiginal drawings and imported them into Rhino and modified them a bit to fit my current thinking. Then I thought, this might work on the CS20. The CS20 mk3 was born. Here are a couple of views of her.

 

 

Attached Files




#74870 Spindrift 12 Photos

Posted by Alex on 15 June 2013 - 06:13 AM

More photos.

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#74869 Spindrift 12 Photos

Posted by Alex on 15 June 2013 - 06:03 AM

More photos.

More photos.

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#69715 Princess 26 interior pictures?

Posted by Wayne Robson on 04 June 2012 - 01:59 PM

Hi folks, some pics of P26 #20 leaving the shed a few days ago after two years in the building. She now has the keel attached and I have some room to start on masts. Cheers

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#82156 Marissa 18 Eco Build ~ PHOTOS~

Posted by Dale Niemann on 05 September 2014 - 10:47 AM

Mike,

Here are a few photos of 'Salty'.  See attached.

 

Hope this answers your question about the steering system.

 

I apologize for the poor quality of the port side shot.

 

dale

Attached Files




#79115 Epoxy Tricks

Posted by Charlie Jones on 13 March 2014 - 07:24 PM

For screw holes I use thickened epoxy in a syringe.  I'm not real pleased with this method because If the hole has no bottom, i.e. goes through both layers of ply, you can wind up with a big glob of goo on the back side of the ply.  If the hole has a bottom, it's very hard avoiding getting a bubble and leaving a void in the hole.  And it's very difficult to know whether you effectively filled the hole.  The other problem, assuming you succeeded in filling the hole,  once it hardens, it shrinks, leaving a "dimple" which can be up to say 1/16th inch deep. There doesn't seem to be an easy way to "scratch" the surface of the dimple, so:

 

1.  When I fill this dimple with another dab of thickened epoxy and a putty knife will it bond? 

 

2.  Or will sometime in the future will this little dab of epoxy pop out along with the paint finish and have to be repaired.

 

3.  Should I just ignore these little dimples and assume that the glassing, fairing, priming and painting process will fill them, and all will be ok?

 

4.  I suppose one could find a Dremel tool sanding head that could be used to rough the surface of these little boogers, but really.............give me a break!

Put a piece of tape on the back side.

 

Insert the syringe all the way to the bottom and slowly pull it out as you inject the epoxy, thus filling from the bottom up

 

Leave a lump on top, and when it's just in the plastic stage, slice it off. Or just sand it later.




#78187 Why not another CS17 Build Thread? Here's #366

Posted by PAR on 25 January 2014 - 10:59 PM

Nice work. Do yourself a favor and round over the inside edges of the hole, cut in the bottom for the Anderson bailer. You may also want to consider waxing the bailer body ( I use regular 'ol Turtle Wax, several coast), where it sticks up through the planking, temporarily bolting it in place and pouring slightly thickened epoxy around it, so the end grain is covered and sealed. The wax will let you remove the bailer and bed it properly with an adhesive sealant, after the epoxy is cured and you'll have a precisely form fitting hole for it, that also protects the planking.

 

Keep up the good work and post some more building shots . . .




#73179 Hydrotek marine ply

Posted by Hirilonde on 27 February 2013 - 06:48 PM

Hydrotek is a brand name.  Okoume and Meranti are the common names for 2 different woods.  Hydrotek is made with Meranti.  There are other brands of Meranti plywood.  BS 1088 is the standard you want regardless of which wood you choose.  Okoume is lighter and bends easier.  Meranti is tougher and stiffer.  It is all a matter of the characteristics you want as to which you choose.  There is no better or worse.




#70737 The Cat is out of the shed

Posted by akruck on 28 August 2012 - 06:01 AM

I went by Grahams' place about three weeks ago and found the Cat sitting outside. It looked like we were in for a real storm, so 5 of us were trying to cover this beast with a very large tarp. Great fun was had by all while trying to hold onto this giant parachute in a stiff breeze. We got it covered just in time for the storm to pass us by with only a few drops.

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