- messing-about Forums
- → Most Liked Content
Most Liked Content
Posted by wkisting on 11 October 2013 - 01:03 PM
Very nice! I have often said that if I was going to make any modifications to our CS20 (mk 1), I would raise the foredeck by about 8" and create a crawl-in cuddy space up front. This version looks much more spacious with a higher deck than I had in mind, but is right in line with the spirit of what I was envisioning. Almost tempts me to build one, but I'm so attached to the boat we have. The CS20, in any guise, is such a fine boat!
Posted by Designer on 04 October 2013 - 08:12 PM
Rather than hijack the mk2 thread I will start a new one.
Chick asked that I post some pictures of the mk3.
I started on a cabin version of the CS17 at least 5 years ago. I got involved in the big cat project and shelved it for a while. One night after work I was showing Alan some drawings that never made it. When we came upon the CS17 with the raised deck, Alan became excited by it's potential.
I cyber dusted off the oiginal drawings and imported them into Rhino and modified them a bit to fit my current thinking. Then I thought, this might work on the CS20. The CS20 mk3 was born. Here are a couple of views of her.
Posted by wkisting on 26 August 2013 - 11:27 AM
I use a loop of bungee that attaches to a hook on the underside of each hatch cover. I spent a long time dreaming up other solutions because for some reason I didn't like the idea of using bungee cording, but once I finally tried it, I was impressed how well it holds the hatches shut (once you get the length right for proper tension) and yet how easy it is to stretch to unhook the loop and open the hatch. It's simple, cheap, and works great--especially for how rarely we need to access the fore and aft compartments. (I only stow the anchor in the forward compartment, and lifejackets and a few floatie chairs in the rear one.) I certainly like the "uncluttered" look of having no latch mechanism visible on the outside of the hatch.
Posted by Alex on 28 June 2013 - 01:44 PM
This is exactly why I bought the plans for the Coresound 17. I live on the Gold Coast and first plan to sail out to Moreton Island which is quite a bit further out than the Whitsundays.
Later on I do plan to sail the Whitsundays since they are so close to the mainland and you can easily island hop from one to another. Having seen Peter's Coresound 17 there seems
to be heaps of space to store stuff and the fact that you can still sail it by yourself fairly easily. You will have to let us all know when you are thinking of heading up there as it would be
great to get a few boats together for a cruise or should that be a race around the Whitsundays.
Posted by Alex on 15 June 2013 - 05:58 AM
Just thought I would share some photos of the Spindrift 12 that I built for my 11 year old son. We use this boat extensively for fishing and sailing. I took most of these photos today when I went for a sail by myself in 15 to 20 knot winds. I was quite surprised sailing downwind and doing what I would think to be 10 knots plus with water spraying everywhere and I was having a ball. I have never sailed this fast in this boat before. Just as well I was by myself as my son would have been crapping himself. What a boat. I can't wait to build the Coresound17. I saw a pod of about 20 to 30 dolphins today with what looked to be 2 or 3 babies as well that were flopping all over the place. What a great day.
Hope you enjoy.
Posted by Hirilonde on 27 February 2013 - 06:48 PM
Hydrotek is a brand name. Okoume and Meranti are the common names for 2 different woods. Hydrotek is made with Meranti. There are other brands of Meranti plywood. BS 1088 is the standard you want regardless of which wood you choose. Okoume is lighter and bends easier. Meranti is tougher and stiffer. It is all a matter of the characteristics you want as to which you choose. There is no better or worse.
Posted by Chick Ludwig on 13 September 2012 - 07:27 PM
This Devoe paint doesn't like me. That and I must have thinned it too much, and my glasses immediately fogged up with paint mist. Less thinner, no glasses (lousy vision, but at least I won't be looking through a paint film.
Maybe I'll let y'all see a picture or two of the disaster before repainting. This time it's gonna be GOOD,,,I hope!
Posted by Miyot on 31 August 2012 - 07:05 PM
I looked at several other boats by other designers for the Carolina type boat I was after. I kept coming back to the Ocracoke. When I found he had plans available for a 24 footer I didn't hesitate. I would have purchased a Jig kit for the 24 if it was available. I believe he has them for the 20 footer. She is the right size to trailer, and economy and performance are at the top of my list. I saw his boat Marissa running in a you tube clip and liked that boat a lot.
I have a lot of work to do to the boat barn, getting it ready for this build while I order materials and build the jig. I'm also redoing our basement. I'll do all 3 at once until and can concentrate on the boat itself. The barn should be warm enough this winter for epoxy work, I'll make it so. I'll start a building thread and do photos when I get started like the one being done now on the Ocracoke 20. Which will be a big help to me in the following months as well. I think the builder is NZ (thanks NZ) she looks great.
Posted by Designer on 23 April 2012 - 07:16 PM
I have had a lot of requests for a cuddy cabin and a self draining cockpit. I raised the freeboard 2" and gave her more deadrise. The extra freeboard helps the make the cabin work better and allows the cockpit to be raised allowing us to fit water ballast. It also raises the point of vanishing stability which will be further enhanced with ballast. Here she is.
Posted by Howard on 29 November 2013 - 10:45 AM
Not entirely sure I understand the source of "shear" load, so I drew up some sketches of this to better visualize what is being suggested.
As I understood Graham and Travis's comments on what happened, if the pivot pin is not tightened to take out all the side to side slop, when the mast bends under load, only one side of the tabernacle takes the load, thus transferring most of the leverage force to the leeward side of the tabernacle. Essentially, the top of the tabernacle then becomes the fulcrum, and the end of the long lever that is the mast then ends at deck level. Under the load of the long lever, the entire face of the centerpiece is in tension and if enough load is applied........easy to do with the vastly increased leverage.....the fulcrum is what gives way and bends, taking a segment of the centerpiece with it when the centerpiece splits.
(Howard's Edit: Side to side slop does not appear to be the primary issue. Loose bolt is. A tight bolt shares the push on the leeward upright with pull on the windward one. Loose bolt does not. Side to side slop is still an issue as the push and pull levers against the fixed centerpiece to the side with a racking force or turning moment........close fit is still needed).
If the pivot pin is tight, both side uprights share the load equally. The force in tension transfers from the centerpiece to the outside edge of the windward upright and the whole apparatus starts acting more like an I-beam. The top of the tabernacle then remains an extension of the mast, and the fulcrum moves down to deck level, with the end of the long lever going all the way to the keel.
Not sure where "shear" load factors into this. I can see how a flat or plain sawn centerpiece would resist side to side bending better than vertical grain or quartersawn, at least in the middle, but I would not think that to be the case on the ends.
The affect from several wraps of glass around the joint essentially works to immobilize the joint, tying both sides together much as the pivot pin does. The strength of the glass handles all the forces of tension and compression to hold it together?
Lastly, there may be an additional force I have not considered and that would be in a vertical plane acting on the sides.. Perhaps when the mast bends, there is a compression force pushing the pivot pin down on the leeward side and an equal force in compression pushing up on the windward side as the mast attempts to rotate. The epoxy bushings take that load and spread it over a wide area of the upright.
But back to those "shear" forces, I'm still not certain where the loads are coming from that a flat sawn or plain sawn board is going to help overcome? Not doubting, just trying to understand.
- Travis Votaw likes this
Posted by Alan Stewart on 28 November 2013 - 05:49 AM
I agree with Scott. I would rather have my tabernacle pin shear load perpendicular to the growth rings. However, with a large epoxy bushing and close tolerances I don't really see an issue either way especially if the tabernacle is fiberglassed all the way around. The tabernacle will bend a little though.
For the center piece plain sawn only makes sense. The darker summer grown in the rings is always more dense and stronger than the spring growth. Quarter sawing that piece doesn't take advantage of the denser material in the grain the way that plain sawing would.
The centerpiece could probably be made of 3/4 plywood for the CS20, not for the longer tabernacles.
A drift pin or long through bolt would be a good backup for the centerpiece but why not just throw some fiberglass across it. Spread the load out a lot more, keep everything sealed up and never worry about it.
- Travis Votaw likes this
Posted by PAR on 27 November 2013 - 05:44 PM
Generally you would rip stock to rough dimensions, then run them through a planer to get the exact dimensions. This is because, even with a fine tooth count table saw blade, you'll still have some roughness to them, which a planer will sort out. Simply put a planer is a finishing tool, while a table saw is a rough dimension tool. Everything coming off the table saw will need refinement, if it's finish will be visible. This said, most will also do further finish refinement on stock running through a planer.
- CapecodJohn likes this
Posted by Kudzu on 22 November 2013 - 12:38 PM
Woke up EARLY this morning. So I fixed some breakfast and headed up river for a couple of hours. I stopped to watch a large flock of Loons that didn't appear to concerned I was there. To my surprise they started coming to me. At one point I was wondering if they were going to right up to me!
I have never been that close to them and I wonder if the eye painted on the boat had anything to do with it??
- okie61 likes this