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#82505 Carla Byrnes

Posted by Chick Ludwig on 19 September 2014 - 04:47 AM

I talked with Carla yesterday. She is doing MUCH better. She is off of anti-biotics now and the infection is gone. She has 5 sets of plates, screws, and rods in her neck, but---this is hard to believe---she has a full range of motion!. And NO PAIN! She is able to eat normally now, and it "all comes out the way it is supposed too." She has lost a lot of weight through her ordeal. She feels good but is still very weak. Her main job now is to build up her strength and endurance to the point that she can begin physical therapy. She still has more surgery to come on her lower back. (Still pain in her lower back, That was where she was originally supposed to have the surgery until tests indicated a very dangerous situation in her neck.) This will happen, maybe, in December.


She is back in he office trying to get everything back on track---including Graham. Her computer went down just as she got back, and they went through a period when the phone system was "off line". Who did I just hear saying "When it rains, it pours."? Beth was a great help in getting out plans and such.


Carla is very thankful to all of of you for your concerns, well wishes, and prayers. She said that there were literally thousands of people, church groups, and friends praying for her, and she credits this for her recovery from a very dangerous and trying situation. Thank you to all of you. And most of all, thanks to God!

#70696 CS20 mk.2

Posted by Designer on 22 August 2012 - 09:01 PM

Here are a couple of newer pictures. We are hoping to be sailing at the messabout.Attached File  CS20 2 20.jpg   86.59KB   148 downloadsAttached File  CS20 2 tabernacle.jpg   131.12KB   142 downloads

#82135 Carla Byrnes

Posted by Designer on 04 September 2014 - 09:26 PM

Thanks again for every ones wishes and concern. Carla was released on Monday and tonight she looked the best that she has been since the surgery. She has been up and down before but if she does not slip back over the next couple of days I am confident that she will be past the worst.

#82107 Carla Byrnes

Posted by mcdermitt on 03 September 2014 - 04:35 PM

I talked with Graham this afternoon.  Carla is back in the hospital with what ever the infection is she has.  It is making it rouph on Graham.  You can tell in his voice he is worried about his wife.  He is a awfully good man to help us build our boats and take time to talk to us.  We need to pray for him as well as Carla.  When ever I go work in the boat I just stop and pray for both of them and I can not wait till I hear she is home and on the mend Stop for a moment and pray for both of them


#81889 Carla Byrnes

Posted by Designer on 25 August 2014 - 07:13 PM

Thanks again for all of the well wishes. Since yesterday there has been quite a turn around. She is starting to eat again and able to keep it down.


We are quite optimistic.

#80084 Converting "Fly Fisher" into a sailboat.

Posted by Action Tiger on 08 May 2014 - 11:36 AM

I will second those Core Sound boats. Lots of boat, there.
Also, Richard, people DO build SOF sailboats. They also build sailboats from plastic bottles, and concrete.
Dave is right about a good sailboat. It makes sailing fun. So do good sails.
I have built some turds.

Don't break too many rules until you learn them fairly well.

That pointy triangle boat looks like a death trap. I'd want my buoyancy further forward.

Then again, what do I know? I never listen. Just ask my mom, or wife, or kids...

#79250 CS17 mk3 and CS20 mk3

Posted by Designer on 19 March 2014 - 08:46 PM

I have just about finished making the first CS17 mk3 kit, I made the centerboard today. I am working on final tweaking and finishing up the plans and should have them available soon. There is a lot of detail and it takes time to get it all together.


I have been sneaking in a few duplicate parts so that I can have one.

#78489 Epoxy Tricks

Posted by PAR on 14 February 2014 - 09:03 AM

Long boards come in various shapes, lengths and sizes, usually geared to match the job. A 1/2" plywood board is too stiff for most boats, except in large expanses of relatively flat areas. I've got a number of boards, one of my favorites is made from 1/8" Lexan. It's 4" wide, about 20" long and fairly flexible, so I can work compound curves. I have ones that are 1/8" and 1/4" plywood too and even one made from 14 gauge aluminum sheet. I buy paper on rolls and cut to length, using a spray adhesive to mount them, though you can just as easily use a clip or slot at each end, to hold the paper to the board.


Technique is key with a boogie board (board-'o-pain). Typically you work from one end of the area (or hull side) in a single direction, across it's full length. You select an appropriate angle, which often seems to be about 30 degrees to the centerline and stroke the board at this angle the full length of the area. All strokes are at this angle, leaving a series of angled scratches. You then come back at the opposite angle, in the other direction, netting a cross hatched pattern of scratches. The low spots will be clearly visible, not having scratches in them and the high spots will be knocked down a touch. At this point, you mark the low spots and apply a little filler in these areas. The next pass with the torture board is focused on the now filled low spots, so you can knock them down to surrounding areas. I often use a very light dusting of primer at this point to fine tune the surface and help see what needs what. Again, working a common angle, you run from one end, to the other, placing a new diagonal scratch pattern and come back on the reciprocal angle for the cross hatch pattern. Each pass will continue to knock down the high spots and reveal the lows you've missed on previous passes.


A pro will make three passes with the cross hatched, long board pattern. The first to find the lows, the second to knock the lows back once filled and the final pass, to even everything up. The backyard fairer, can make a career out of this process, with many passes and filling sessions. The more you work this set of steps, the fairer and smoother the hull will be. The same process is used with paint, if you want a baby's butt surface, just with finer grits, usually wet. It helps a lot to have the right lighting for this process. You can have too much light, particularly if it's directly over head. You want a low angle of light, so you can see the shadows in the low spots.


The biggest mistakes novices make are not using a long board, thinking a palm sander or orbital will do and over working the surface. The Harbor Freight "in line sander" linked above shouldn't be used. It will remove material at an alarming rate and it's not flexible enough to conform to curved surfaces. That particular Harbor Fright tool is a single piston design and you'll be in serious pain, with just a 1/2 hour of use. It's a real piece of crap and if you want one, get a duel action/piston design so it doesn't tear your elbows off. Try not to get aggressive with material removal, just lightly scratch the surface, so you can see what's high and what needs to be filled. On plywood hulls you'll bring the lows up to the highs for the most part, so skim coat the lows with some filler and knock these filled areas back locally at first, then with the long board passes. A jitter bug (palm sander), DA or orbital sander will not fair a surface, just smooth it. Fairing and smoothing operations are wholly different. The long board fairs. Once the surface is fair, then you can move onto smoothing operations. Fair is what you can see, while smooth is what you feel. A surface can be smooth, but quite unfair. A dent in a car door is a classic example of this. The dent can be polished and really smooth, but the light reflection will clearly show it's not fair.

#77996 CS17 mk3 and CS20 mk3

Posted by Designer on 13 January 2014 - 09:40 PM

We waved farewell to Doug today as he drove off with his new Mk3. We were happy to get her out of the shop to get a good look at her rather than being too close all of the time. I feel that she more than met my expectations and you can still see the Core Sound heritage.


There is decent headroom, without the trunk cabin. It is very comfortable laying back against the hull, at 5' 7" sitting as tall as I could, my head was not touching the deck. I think that a 6 footer could find a comfortable position.

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#76714 CS17 mk3 and CS20 mk3

Posted by Designer on 04 October 2013 - 08:12 PM

Rather than hijack the mk2 thread I will start a new one.


Chick asked that I post some pictures of the mk3.


I started on a cabin version of the CS17 at least 5 years ago.  I got involved in the big cat project and shelved it for a while. One night after work I was showing Alan some drawings that never made it. When we came upon the CS17 with the raised deck, Alan became excited by it's potential.


I cyber dusted off the oiginal drawings and imported them into Rhino and modified them a bit to fit my current thinking. Then I thought, this might work on the CS20. The CS20 mk3 was born. Here are a couple of views of her.



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#74870 Spindrift 12 Photos

Posted by Alex on 15 June 2013 - 06:13 AM

More photos.

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#74869 Spindrift 12 Photos

Posted by Alex on 15 June 2013 - 06:03 AM

More photos.

More photos.

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#69715 Princess 26 interior pictures?

Posted by Wayne Robson on 04 June 2012 - 01:59 PM

Hi folks, some pics of P26 #20 leaving the shed a few days ago after two years in the building. She now has the keel attached and I have some room to start on masts. Cheers

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#84685 Core Sound 20 Mark III #3

Posted by Steve W on 18 February 2015 - 11:48 AM

I made it home from B & B with a sailboat (in pieces) on my trailer. I left last Friday with my three kids, and spent two days in Washington DC at the Smithsonian. Monday we went to the Maritime Museum in Newport News. That museum is really fantastic, especially the Monitor exhibit. Monday, a big ice storm hit and a drive that should have taken three and a half hours took five and a half. I think everyday winter road conditions up here in western NY are scary for those who have never driven on ice covered roads. Tueday morning, here is what the trailer looked like. Check out the hub. I had noticed she wasn't bouncing after awhile and I'd guess there was at least 100 pounds of attached ice.


Attached File  Trailer.jpg   161.03KB   1 downloads


Anyway, I arrived at B & B around and left hours later. I was lucky to meet Graham, Alan and even Carla (and Deja and Mandy the dogs). I am drawing a blank on the gentleman who assisted loading the trailer. Graham gave me quite a few tips and I got to watch Alan run the Shop-Bot while he made a plug for the mizzen mast. I had left my kids at the Hotel in New Bern and we left there at 2:30. We drove in some pretty challenging conditions for an hour or so, but once we got to 95 it was mostly dry roads. With a forecast of snow, I decided to take advantage of the weather window and arrived home at 2:45 in the morning.


So now it's time to build another boat.

#83753 Lapwing #20 aka Hirilondë

Posted by philipgarland on 09 December 2014 - 02:04 PM

Downsizing and simplifying is a good thing as we get older and wiser. I would stick with the sprits for ease of rigging unless you plan to keep the boat rigged all the time. We have the wishbone sprits on our CS17 for performance reasons, to have smooth, undisturbed sail shape. I am in the process of making some spruce sprits for use day sailing as the wishbones take too much time to rig up. Don't tell my sailmaker.

#80776 CS17 mk3 and CS20 mk3

Posted by Steve W on 23 June 2014 - 09:03 AM



I check this site everyday looking for your updates! she's looking great and I can' wait for a sail report!


Take Care,


#79685 CS 17

Posted by Paul356 on 18 April 2014 - 05:18 PM

Working on the centerboard.

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#76151 Sailing video of our CS20

Posted by wkisting on 26 August 2013 - 11:27 AM

Hi David,


I use a loop of bungee that attaches to a hook on the underside of each hatch cover. I spent a long time dreaming up other solutions because for some reason I didn't like the idea of using bungee cording, but once I finally tried it, I was impressed how well it holds the hatches shut (once you get the length right for proper tension) and yet how easy it is to stretch to unhook the loop and open the hatch. It's simple, cheap, and works great--especially for how rarely we need to access the fore and aft compartments. (I only stow the anchor in the forward compartment, and lifejackets and a few floatie chairs in the rear one.) I certainly like the "uncluttered" look of having no latch mechanism visible on the outside of the hatch.



#73179 Hydrotek marine ply

Posted by Hirilonde on 27 February 2013 - 06:48 PM

Hydrotek is a brand name.  Okoume and Meranti are the common names for 2 different woods.  Hydrotek is made with Meranti.  There are other brands of Meranti plywood.  BS 1088 is the standard you want regardless of which wood you choose.  Okoume is lighter and bends easier.  Meranti is tougher and stiffer.  It is all a matter of the characteristics you want as to which you choose.  There is no better or worse.

#66247 Belhaven sailing on youtube

Posted by Scott Dunsworth on 05 November 2011 - 08:23 AM

Here is one more video, my wife didn't get to go with me so it's from the boat also. Doing 6 to 7 mph with one reef in. I had the the recorder strapped to the cabin top for about half of the clip so its pretty boring. I did get some over the transom and down the side of the boat. Remember I carry as much as 800 lbs of stuff in the boat so performance is hampered a bit. Scott